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Thread: Shed built SS tumbler (Photo Heavy)

  1. #1
    Member nzfubz's Avatar
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    Shed built SS tumbler (Photo Heavy)

    Finally got around to testing my home made SS tumbler with great results. Thought I would post up a whole heap of photos to maybe inspire others. Have most of the parts written down somewhere if someone wants the details.

    Was a fun item to make and should make 200 - 300 brass at a time nice and shiny.

    SS media was the only item needed to import, not for lack of trying to get locally.
    Attached Images Attached Images                  
    jakewire, P38, 7mmsaum and 8 others like this.

  2. #2
    P38
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    Good on ya nzfubs

    Looks like it engineered to last.

    Did you consider buying S/S welding wire and cutting it to length with some side cutters.?

    Cheers
    Pete

  3. #3
    Member nzfubz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P38 View Post
    Good on ya nzfubs

    Looks like it engineered to last.

    Did you consider buying S/S welding wire and cutting it to length with some side cutters.?

    Cheers
    Pete
    No I hadn't Pete, thanks for the suggestion.

    Ultra 47 Stainless Steel Pellet Pin Tumbling Media 5 5lb International Shipping | eBay

    Is where I got mine from. I doubt it will need replacing for the amount I'll use it but if I need a top up I'll definitely investigate welding wire.

  4. #4
    Member kimjon's Avatar
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    Very smart, I like it

  5. #5
    Tread carefully in the suck... ishoot10s's Avatar
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    Nice build.
    What's the deal with steel media though, isn't it a bit hard on the cases? I can't see an advantage over softer polishing media?
    Pick that 9 mil case outta there!
    10MRT shooters do it 60 times, in two directions and at two speeds.

  6. #6
    Member nzfubz's Avatar
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    According to the media supplier it does not harm your brass in anyway. I'm sure it would after enough tumbles but the brass would need replacing due to use before this would matter.

    The advantage against soft media is the SS media is designed to clean primer pockets, flash hole and the internals far better.

    Brass Cleaning & Reloading Tips and Instructions

    That's one site that has some information and is where I got the water mix from.
    ishoot10s likes this.

  7. #7
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    heavy duty design!

    Do the exposed bolt threads and nuts inside mark the brass at all?

    Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2
    jakesae101 likes this.
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  8. #8
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    Here is my one. It's along similar lines, although a bit more agricultural than yours.
    A steel frame and dedicated motor are future mods, I still just use a drill to drive it.
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    nzfubz, Uplandstalker and heinnz like this.

  9. #9
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    nzfubz could you put up the list of parts, etc. looks like a really interesting project that I may have a go at.

  10. #10
    Not just an internet expert... The Claw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rupert View Post
    nzfubz could you put up the list of parts, etc. looks like a really interesting project that I may have a go at.
    +1...
    If it's not a first round hit you need to practice more

  11. #11
    Member nzfubz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rupert View Post
    nzfubz could you put up the list of parts, etc. looks like a really interesting project that I may have a go at.
    Will put this up tonight.

  12. #12
    Member specweapon's Avatar
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    Well mine's more agricultural than both of yours, bucket with a Dremel cable tied to the bottom. Off center bolt attached to the chuck for vibration, normal short grain rice as media.
    Brass comes up bloody nice, rice lasts about 200rnds with some strips of tissue paper to pick up the residue. Only nuisance is having to tumble it once to polish then about half hour tumble with no media in to vibrate the rice out of the cases. Cleans primer pockets perfectly


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    veitnamcam and Beaker like this.

  13. #13
    Member nzfubz's Avatar
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    Motor, drive elements and steel frame

    1/4 or 1/3 Horse power single phase motor. Got mine for $40 off trademe
    25mm Box section, need about 2.5m
    12mm Solid bar. Best to get all metric or all imperial parts to match pulleys to bar, unlike what I did and had to shave down 1/2 to fit 12mm
    12mm Pillow block bearings
    8x50mm Bolts, penny washers and nyloc nuts x 8
    8x30mm Set screws penny washers and nylocs for the motor
    Adjusta feet x 4
    12mm ID Heater hose or similar hard wearing hose 1mtr
    6x75mm bolt with standard washers and nyloc
    6mm bearing for tumbler to run against
    1/2 or 12mm pulley for motor
    1/2 or 12mm pulley for roller ( there is plenty of info and workings from uncle google on how to work out the rpm)
    2mm plate steel for the motor to be mounted to.

    PVC Tumbler

    6' Marley Stormwater pipe cut off at flared end (handy if you know a drain layer or plumber for this)
    6' Marley Flat end cap
    6' to 4' Off Set reducer (I tried in vain for ages to find a central reducer but they are not a standard item)
    Fernco Qwik Cap 4' with pipe clamp
    2' PVC pipe cut in half length ways to act as agitators
    CSK Drill bit
    CSK SS 5x16mm Socket head set screws with washer and nyloc nuts
    Roof and gutter silicone
    PVC Pipe cement
    Hard 2mmx50mm Rubber strips glued to tumbler exterior

    Here are the exerts from my little black book of weird creations that may give you an idea on sizing and other things I have missed from the list.

    The timer is the next addition so I can program the 2, 3 or 4 hour tumbles, was $5 off ebay
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    300CALMAN likes this.

  14. #14
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    People also seem to have success making the drive system by stripping down an old inkjet printer and using the internals.
    Certainly worth a google.
    I would however, question their longevity on a continuous duty cycle.

  15. #15
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    I've just ripped 2 printers apart for this purpose, so will let you know! Mainly to tidy up parts for restores etc, but will do brass also.

 

 

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