# Firearms and Shooting > Projects and Home Builds >  Walnut Stock Build

## PaulNZ

I wasnt going to make this thread until I was a bit further along, however perhaps with the current lockdown nows a good time. I know I appreciate reading similar threads created by other members  they help keep your thoughts off the hunting most of us wish we were doing at the moment. 

Anyway, Ill post up to where Im currently at. After that updates will be a lot slower  even with the lockdown I still have plenty of demands on my time from work, a young family etc. Also, in my own time I prefer to work slowly and carefully  a luxury I dont always get in work hours. Bear in mind too that Im only a hobby machinist and this is the first time Ive attempted to make a stock. Some might say I tend to do things the hard way. 

The pictures should tell most of the story, but comments and questions welcome.

Step 1  start with an old, large (~1m diameter trunk) English Walnut thats shortly about to kick the bucket from natural causes anyway. This was back in 2010:



Step 2 - fell:







Step 3 - mill:







Step 4 - stack, store and wait:



More to come...

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## Tommy

Wow that is delicious

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## Steve123

Nice

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## SixtyTen

That timber looks amazing. Can't wait to see the stock you make from it. I have spent the last 5 days hacking a stock for a hunting rifle out of a lump of ash I had lying around, nice strong timber, but butt ugly at best.

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## hotbarrels

Damn that's a beautiful piece of wood.

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## PaulNZ

Thanks for the responses all. 
So looking through the gun cabinet my Anschutz 1717 .17hmr was chosen as the restocking victim candidate. I thought I had a picture of it in the original stock but can’t find it at the moment, so rather than reassemble it for a photo here’s an example I borrowed from the net. Being the silhouette version it’s got the 2-stage trigger and shortened barrel as per the picture, but the magazine is a bit longer (the picture is a .22lr 1712). Stock is just like the photo – comfortable but not exactly elegant to my eyes, and made from straight grain stained walnut with very little figure.

Anyway, I’ll come back to the stock. There were a few mods to the steelwork first. This is a nice rifle; very accurate, but actually with a couple of issues you might not expect for the money they ask for one of these. 
First up, when I received the rifle it misfired about 40% of the time and accuracy was poor. This was probably why the seller offered it for so cheap (not that he put that little detail on his auction). A little google searching told me that this was a common problem on the magnum side-safety versions, with the solution being aftermarket firing pin springs. US$23 spring set later and it was sorted – 100% ignition and immediately better accuracy. 

Problem #2 was that the side safety was very stiff to operate. I relocated one leg of the tensioning spring – problem solved. 

#3 was more involved. While feeding of rounds loaded with polymer-tipped (vmax) bullets was fine, when using hollow-point TNT rounds the top round would hang up on the breech face. The solution was supposed to be the improved 2nd or 3rd gen magazine. I bought a 3rd gen magazine (not cheap!) and it was worse. Now I don’t like to let things like this beat me, and when I looked closely I figured the best way to correct the problem was not with the magazine but with the housing – presenting the magazine up to the bolt at a slightly different angle. Solution was to replace it. Only thing I kept from the assembly was the spring.








Feeding now 100% with both mags and both bullet types.
There’s been a couple more tweaks here and there – grinding the safety lever under the stock line and reshaping the action tang (I’ll come back to that next post). Still on the list are a new trigger blade and a teardrop bolt handle.

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## MSL

Looks like a Peterson mill there


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## PaulNZ

> Looks like a Peterson mill there
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yep, I think it was. Only used for the first couple of passes though - the bulk of the trunk was slabbed with the chainsaw setup. Some of the smaller branches done with a Woodmizer bandsaw mill, and I seem to remember a larger bandsaw mill being used for the bigger branch forks. All the milling was done by Rarefind Timbers out of Hamilton - we just stood there to dictate the cuts and help shift timber.

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## gundoc

Nice work on the mag housing!  I cut down an old walnut tree in the 1970's and chainsawed it into slabs which I stacked and air dryed for several years.  I made several stocks over the years for various customers and have one blank left that I will use for a classic English sporter at some stage.  Patience is definitely your friend when stockmaking!

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## Sideshow

Good looking wood.
I suspect that you know most wood for gun stocks is aged around 7/15 years. So 10 sounds about right! Looking forward to seeing the blank before you start and how it comes out. :Thumbsup:

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## Moa Hunter

I am quite amazed at what beautiful timber came out of such an ordinary rough firewood looking log. Diamonds on the inside and all that, certainly the opposite of ' beauty is only skin deep'.
Great job on the machining too.
If the original stock will accept an EM332 I am interested, but I guess that wont happen for a while

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## rewa

Big trees are beautiful ..in life..and death

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## PaulNZ

> If the original stock will accept an EM332 I am interested, but I guess that wont happen for a while


What would you need to know whether it fits an EM332? I don't have one of those, but I could send you inlet photos and dimensions if you're keen. I expect it'll depend on how much modification you're willing to do...

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## PaulNZ

> Nice work on the mag housing!  I cut down an old walnut tree in the 1970's and chainsawed it into slabs which I stacked and air dryed for several years.  I made several stocks over the years for various customers and have one blank left that I will use for a classic English sporter at some stage.  Patience is definitely your friend when stockmaking!


Thanks. If you create a thread when you build that, it's definitely one I'll be following.

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## homebrew.357

Flaming heck ,"I`m only a hobby machinist"` , Hell lad you could build your self a muzzle loading rifle no sweat. Can't wait to see the new rifle stock from the lovely stock pile of wood.

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## PaulNZ

> Flaming heck ,"I`m only a hobby machinist"` , Hell lad you could build your self a muzzle loading rifle no sweat. Can't wait to see the new rifle stock from the lovely stock pile of wood.


Thanks. I don't reckon I have half the ingenuity to call on that I see in your barrel making setup though! Awesome stuff.

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## akaroa1

@PaulNZ did you water blast and mill the stump end right down into the roots ?
That's where the best figured wood lurks

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## PaulNZ

Another few snapshots from the milling for your interest. Note that these are all with the wood still wet  the colour did change considerably after drying.









Getting back to the stockbuilding side of it, the blank I picked out is actually visible in the photo directly above (or the adjacent slab, I dont remember). On the right hand side, below the branch stub. A little tricky to orient the stock outside the sapwood while still picking up the good figure, but on this tree the heavy black streaking is only really present in the outer layers of heartwood and this is what I was looking for in this particular stock. Heres the blank  fairly close to quartersawn and with the grain running near straight down the fore-end when viewed from the top. 


And from the other side, after I had taken a bit of weight off it. 


Next step was to sketch out the stock outline and work out the dimensions. Heres where there is perhaps a slight clash of form and function  if I was making this purely to look at I would have probably made the fore-end shorter, the comb lower, the pistol grip more open, eliminate the cast, reduce the palm swell, make the comb fluting smaller, and add a cheekpiece. But hell, its supposed to be a hunting rifle at the end of the day and if it doesnt fit me then whats the point? So I didnt do any of those things. The cheekpiece wouldnt have really compromised the fit I suppose, but it didnt improve fit for me either and it also added weight. This wood is dense compared to the original stock and I want to keep it balanced. 
After that I still didnt pick up tools and get into the walnut, I made a pattern stock out of a bit of Totara. For someone making their first stock Id really recommend this  there were plenty of little changes I made once I had the stock shape in hand (mostly removing extra wood) that I probably wouldnt have had the guts to make directly on the walnut. Knowing you can play with contours and bog up any mistakes is great. I fully inletted, pillared and bedded the test stock also. This was to test and refine each of these steps but also so I could shoot and hunt the test stock, checking again on fit & balance and changing around bedding arrangements if required. 

Heres inletting of the pattern stock on the mill:




Pre-bedding:


And after a whole bunch of shaping I ended up with this. Its painted mainly so I could look past the bog patches and see the contours clearly.


And a shot trying to show the cast-off of the buttstock:


I thought I had the contours about right when I assembled the rifle at this stage, but after picking it up every now and again over the period of a few weeks I felt that it needed a bit more work. Shot well at the range though.
More to come.

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## PaulNZ

> @PaulNZ did you water blast and mill the stump end right down into the roots ?
> That's where the best figured wood lurks


Yep, at least as far as possible. I spent a whole afternoon on the millers yard with his waterblaster and a crowbar getting as much solidified dirt and stones out of the root ball as possible. We were pretty lucky with the timing - there was a lot of rot in the stump just below ground level but it hadn't propagated into the trunk yet. Probably why the tree was looking crook. No doubt we still lost some figured wood during the trimming process, and there's a bit more that is separated as smaller blocks (think 2-piece stocks) that we couldn't mill as part of the main slabs.

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## gundoc

I have always used the same type of milling machine set-up for inletting, machining to correct depths but allowing a 5% margin on the sides for hand inletting.  I do all external shaping and finishing by hand (draw knife, chisels, rasps, files, etc).  Checkering (after stock finishing) requires care in laying out, so that you have it matching on both sides and maintain the 2:1 ratio on the diamonds.

You are doing nice work and should keep it up!

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## PaulNZ

So some of the changes I made to the stock at this point were to reduce LOP by ¼, flatten off the palm swell slightly, and deepen and extend the comb fluting. All easily done. But I also couldnt shake the feeling that the pistol grip was just a bit thick (as seen in the profile view) at the upper end. Unfortunately to drop this top line downwards would have introduced the humpback look you can see on the original Anschutz stock, due to the shallow angle of the tang. I didnt like that idea much. In fact the more I looked at the pattern stock the less I liked the top line being convex at all - it would be more graceful if it was flat or concave. The only solution seemed to be to modify the tang. 
These Anschutz actions are case-hardened, so off to the poor-mans surface grinder (cup wheel in my mill-drill). I made up a spindle to fit the wheel into an existing collet chuck, trued the wheel with a diamond dresser and setup dust extraction to pull any abrasive grit away from the mill table. Given that it was the first time Id tried this setup I think it worked quite well:





This is the most I could steepen the tang angle while still keeping the bolt lug sufficiently engaged in the guide slot when in the rearmost position. I polished the surfaces up after grinding, but I dont have a photo of that. I then re-contoured the stock in this area and ended up much happier with the result in both feel and appearance.  Perhaps not the best photo, but you get the idea.


People are probably getting tired of seeing a piece of brown painted totara, so next post will be back to some nicely grained walnut!

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## PaulNZ

One more post and thisll be up to date with where Im actually at. If I was writing this chronologically, there should actually be a post in between thinking the pattern stock was done and then deciding to modify it further; roughing out the walnut stock on the duplicator. 







A little like cheating perhaps, but yes  I have access to a stock duplicator, and no  its not mine. Interesting bit of kit to steer around once you get the feel of it, and that carbide roughing mill in the router certainly strips off the wood! As far as duplicators go its not the most sophisticated, the better ones have linkage to keep the cutting bit vertical as it goes up and down in height whereas this just rocks forwards and backwards. I trust it to be accurate to within about a millimetre with me at the controls, which is why the inletting will still be done on the mill and by hand.  But still, itll save me a bit of work. 
I made up several tracers/styluss out of aluminium  you can see the largest fitted in the photo. First duplication was 12mm oversize; to get the feel of using the duplicator and so that I had a few mm to re-orientate the stock layout within the blank if the grain pattern changed once some wood had been ripped off. A couple of weeks later I went over in all again 6mm oversize. Heres the stock at this point, next to the since-revised pattern. The heavier-than-normal grooving midway along the stock in the first photo is where I forgot to lock the spindle rotation - dammit. Lesson learned, and no harm done.







The plan was to let the oversize stock settle for a few weeks to work out any residual stress before re-mounting it for final duplication at 1.5mm oversize. When this lockdown lifts and I can get back to the duplicator thats what Ill do. Then onto the mill for inletting, followed by final shaping with hand tools. Sanding, finishing, bedding, checkering (outsourced), recoil pad, flush sling swivels, pistol grip cap inlay, new trigger blade, new bolt handle plenty to keep me occupied for a long time yet.

Hope youve enjoyed the read. As long as people are still interested, Ill post an update when theres something worth updating about. Hey, with a bit of luck we might all be too busy hunting, fishing and shooting in a few weeks time to be posting on this forum anyway  but Im not holding my breath.

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## nevereadyfreddy

coming along nicely

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## SixtyTen

I'm still interested! Please keep the posts coming. I'd love to have access to a stock duplicator.

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## Martin358

Your stock has a built in suppressor, lol

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## csmiffy

That is a pretty looking bit of walnut for sure

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## FRST

Great thread. Loving the updates and looking forward to seeing the final result. Good idea leaving the duplicated stock oversized to let it settle too.

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## Moa Hunter

> What would you need to know whether it fits an EM332? I don't have one of those, but I could send you inlet photos and dimensions if you're keen. I expect it'll depend on how much modification you're willing to do...


The EM is supposed to be a copy of the Match 54 action, so should be close. The EM stock is OK, a bit close or short between the pistol grip and trigger, but is a very soft timber - softer than Radiata even

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## Moa Hunter

I really like what you are doing. For me the fore-end on the Totara stock is a bit slim and shallow to get a good grip for off-hand shots. Have you ever used a Sako Forester or similar with the flat sides and flat underneath? they sit very well in hand and don't rock over like most American designs. In saying that I very much like the shape.

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## trooper90

Gotta love a nice piece of walnut awesome mod so far!

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## PaulNZ

Thanks for all the comments and encouragement everyone.




> I really like what you are doing. For me the fore-end on the Totara stock is a bit slim and shallow to get a good grip for off-hand shots. Have you ever used a Sako Forester or similar with the flat sides and flat underneath? they sit very well in hand and don't rock over like most American designs. In saying that I very much like the shape.


Good point. I don't think I've shot with a Sako Forester, but I did use a borrowed Alpine .270 for a few months (English, based on an '98 Mauser action) which had a similar stock to what you describe. This stock for the Anschutz here is about as slender as I'd want to take it, but it helps that I shoot offhand best with my left hand well forward on the stock. I actually have my index finger wrapped around the front face of the Schnabel and that gives me a bit more to hang on to than on a similar fore-end with a rounded tip.




> Your stock has a built in suppressor, lol


Haha, latest technology don't you know. I was hoping no-one noticed that before the patent was granted.

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## chainsaw

Thanks for sharing - a stunning piece of walnut there sir. Great skills and some nice gear at your disposal. Keep it coming

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## PaulNZ

> The EM is supposed to be a copy of the Match 54 action, so should be close. The EM stock is OK, a bit close or short between the pistol grip and trigger, but is a very soft timber - softer than Radiata even


Pulling up a photo of an EM332 it looks like both action screws might be ahead of the trigger? That could be a problem. I believe that is indeed how the Anschutz Match 54 action is configured, but the sporter 54 action has the rear action screw behind the trigger. You can actually see it in the photo I posted of the tang grinding - the hole right at the back. Here's a few more dimensions from my Anschutz receiver if they're of any use to you anyway:

Action Screw Spacing: 176.2mmRear action screw to rear edge of receiver: 9.8mmFront action screw to rear face of recoil lug: 12.0mmReceiver diameter: 29.8mm
All dimensions referencing action screws are to the hole centre. I also know where there's a factory classic stock inlet for the same action (but wing safety, not side safety).

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## Bol Tackshin

.double post.

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## Bol Tackshin

That is correct. as far as I have been able to establish,  the EM-332 was based on the Match 54 action rather than an identical copy of it.

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## rupert

Bol Tackshin: have a look at the thread 'EM332 - Norinco's Finest 22' which suggest that the EM332 is a relative of the Suhl.

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## Friwi

Very nice work. Looking forward to seeing the finished product :-)

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## Bol Tackshin

Thanks @rupert - I stand corrected.  It is quite difficult to find any authoritative info about the EM-332 or NS-522 family of rifles but they do shoot well!

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## Spitfire

Great work and a stunning piece of wood. Will keep a close eye on progress.

What’s happening with the remaining slabs?

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## PaulNZ

> Great work and a stunning piece of wood. Will keep a close eye on progress.
> 
> What’s happening with the remaining slabs?


For the moment, the majority are aging quietly in the shed. We're in no hurry to shift them on or work through them all at the moment. I've got three brothers and a father who are all keen on guns/hunting and woodwork to at least some degree, so I expect there'll be a couple more stocks in due course and a few other projects as well.

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## Spitfire

Nice. Great to have beautiful timber on hand like that, especially as it’s from your own piece of dirt.

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## caberslash

@PaulNZ how is it coming along?

Excellent thread!

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## PaulNZ

Slowly  :Have A Nice Day: . I did the final duplication down to 1.5mm oversize a few months ago, then it got bumped down the project list a few steps. There's been a woodworking centre to strip and rebuild, and the recoil pad grinding jig, and the lathe outboard turning setup, and the boring bar holder, and the mods to my Ruger 77/22, and working over the single shot .22 for my daughter, and adapting lathe steady rests, and no doubt a few bits and pieces I've forgotten as well. I work more slowly than some of the other guys on this forum anyway.

Back to the Anschutz, I did complete the new bolt handle and trigger blade - I'll see if I can post a picture or 2. Hopefully back to the stock in a few weeks  :Thumbsup:

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## PaulNZ

Here's a picture of the standard bolt knob and trigger blade (not actually my rifle, I just copied it off Google):


The replacement trigger blade from 316 stainless (not the best photo):


The replacement bolt knob - still to be blued:


The bolt knob in particular was more fiddly than it looks. The threaded shank under the old plastic knob was actually larger in diameter than the rest of the bolt handle, which would have prevented any kind of nice, seamless fit. I had to start by accurately grinding down and rethreading this section to a smaller diameter. All good fun.

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## The bomb

Jeez my local gunsmith doesn’t even want to drill and tap my 44 mag barrel for a front sight,not enough meat left in the barrel he says,,yet you can produce stuff like this!!!

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## csmiffy

@The bomb really? is it quite a skinny barrel? Maybe at the least sweat one on.
But i digress
Back to the nice work

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## PaulNZ

> Jeez my local gunsmith doesnt even want to drill and tap my 44 mag barrel for a front sight,not enough meat left in the barrel he says,,yet you can produce stuff like this!!!


Well, I reckon it's a lot easier working on your own possessions in your own time. I'm sure I'd end up well under minimum wage if I tried this stuff professionally! 

Your gunsmith may be right about drilling and tapping, but surely he can offer alternatives? Sweating one on as mentioned above, or putting on a sleeved/banded type of front sight?

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## The bomb

He reakons sweating on can wreck barrel and he put the barrel band suggestion I made in the too hard basket,getting any gun parts from the states is  a pain as I’m sure there will be a barrel band option available.

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## The bomb

> @The bomb really? is it quite a skinny barrel? Maybe at the least sweat one on.
> But i digress
> Back to the nice work


Blued Rossi with the front sight all one piece with the forward barrel band,need to put a higher hi viz front sight on somehow,he showed me a couple of Rossi barrels that were cracked under the dovetail cutout where front sight was so ruled out that option as well.

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## The bomb

> @The bomb really? is it quite a skinny barrel? Maybe at the least sweat one on.
> But i digress
> Back to the nice work


Only about 4mm of barrel thickness to work with.

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## PaulNZ

Well I'm no expert, but 4mm sounds like it should be do-able for drill and tap? Sweating is commonly used so not sure why it should wreck the barrel (other than the finish). Failing all that, have a look at Loctite Black Maxx adhesive. I've never used it myself, but have read several times of it being used for attaching sights with good results.

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## csmiffy

Litle bit pedantic, but maybe not the hight temp sweating, more soldering. 
In saying that i have a 357 exactly the same. Why cant he put a dovetail on the front barrel band/front sight assembly to suit a hi-vis blade?

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## The bomb

Definitely not lack of experience,he has been in the business for decades!!more like a lack of motivation..

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## The bomb

Here’s the setup

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## The bomb



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## The bomb



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## PaulNZ

I think there would be several ways of achieving your aim, but if your looking for a different idea would it be possible to grind the front blade off and drill and tap the top of the barrel band block for a fiber optic front bead like they put on shotguns?  This may not be high enough? Or do you need windage adjustment of the foresight also?

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## tetawa

> Definitely not lack of experience,he has been in the business for decades!!more like a lack of motivation..


All I would say is your level of trust differs from mine, ask Dave Gibson about the guy he uses.

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## MSL

I could weld the hi viz ramp to the band 


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## The bomb

> All I would say is your level of trust differs from mine, ask Dave Gibson about the guy he uses.


More like lack of options!!

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## The bomb

> I think there would be several ways of achieving your aim, but if your looking for a different idea would it be possible to grind the front blade off and drill and tap the top of the barrel band block for a fiber optic front bead like they put on shotguns?  This may not be high enough? Or do you need windage adjustment of the foresight also?


The sight in the picture is the correct height for a 50m zero ,would like to be able to remove the front sight as it’s really a backup in case the red dot dies or for hunting in the rain hence the drill and tap being the preferred option..

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## MSL

We could grind the front blade off the band, then notch out the hi viz ramp to suit and drill and tap the two together


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## Got-ya

> I think there would be several ways of achieving your aim, but if your looking for a different idea would it be possible to grind the front blade off and drill and tap the top of the barrel band block for a fiber optic front bead like they put on shotguns?  This may not be high enough? Or do you need windage adjustment of the foresight also?


Similar to this but would it be possible cut the blade off from the front sight. Mill a slot then pin a new hi viz blade the right height?

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## The bomb

Wondering if I should try and buy a spare front band and try to alter that in one of the ways mentioned here,at least if it goes to shit I still have the original.

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## PaulNZ

Well, after working through a long list of other distractions I've finally made the time to give my stock a bit more attention. Not a whole lot, but at least it's forward progress!

Getting ready for pillar installation:




Pillars in, mag well and trigger guard cuts complete, initial barrel channel cut done and recess cut for fore-end reinforcement:




Reinforcement fitted and epoxied. Under the epoxy are 2x lengths of 6mm thickwall carbon fibre tube and 1x length of 11mm x 2mm carbon fibre strip. Probably unnecessary, but nice to have some insurance against the fore-end ever warping:




It'll probably get put aside for another week or so now, then back on the mill to carry on with the rest of the inletting.

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## PaulNZ

Inletting of barrelled action and bottom metal has gone as far as I'm going to take it on the mill. Time to break out the inletting black and sharpen up the chisels and scrapers for the final fitting...

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## PaulNZ

It's been a long time since I updated this thread, but for those who are still interested I got the first coat of finish on today. Poor photos I'm afraid, but with the finish still wet I wasn't about to move it somewhere more photogenic:

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## Haggis

That looks awesome. Your a skilled man

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## 6x47

and a tidy one looking at the pics

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## gundoc

Nice work and an excellent piece of wood with an ideal grain through the full length.

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## PaulNZ

Thanks for the kind words. Having come this far, I'm just trying not to screw it up now!

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## Lucky

beautiful bit of wood , and very nice work as well , well done

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## Taupohunter

> It's been a long time since I updated this thread, but for those who are still interested I got the first coat of finish on today. Poor photos I'm afraid, but with the finish still wet I wasn't about to move it somewhere more photogenic:


Paul.

This has been a fantastic read. You are very talented. I read with interest because I have an Anschutz 1712 22.

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## PaulNZ

> I read with interest because I have an Anschutz 1712 22.


Nice rifles, aren't they. Is yours a hunting rifle or for targets/silhouette?

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## SixtyTen

Looking great, wish I had the patience for traditional inletting. I tend to just mill out a pocket and bed the whole inlet area. All of the stocks I have made so far have been painted though. What sort of chisels and scrapers are you using for the inletting? Anything special or specific? I have a large assortment of chisels, but a limited number of scrapers.

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## PaulNZ

> Looking great, wish I had the patience for traditional inletting. I tend to just mill out a pocket and bed the whole inlet area. All of the stocks I have made so far have been painted though. What sort of chisels and scrapers are you using for the inletting? Anything special or specific? I have a large assortment of chisels, but a limited number of scrapers.


For proper traditional inletting I'd defer to Hunter_Nick; like you I would prefer to use the mill where possible. Your approach makes perfect sense if the stock is going to be painted - I'd do the same. As far as inletting tools, probably the only special/specific ones I have are the 3 homemade ones in the picture below:



The top one is a small chisel I made to work specifically on the tang area. It's a piece of 4mm drill rod which I centre-drilled, hardened, and then ground at an angle to make a little in-cannel gouge.

The centre one is very basic - just a length of broken bi-metal hacksaw blade onto which I ground a couple of scraper profiles. With the HSS teeth ground off, the body of the blade seems to be just the right hardness to turn and hold a good scraping burr. I 'turn' the burr with the shank of a carbide drill bit held in a pin vise. The piece of all-hard hacksaw blade I tried this with didn't work as well - the burr tended to chip instead of roll. 

Bottom one is a cranked-neck incannel gouge. Source material was a woodturning gouge from a secondhand shop which had the standard external bevel. I cut off the tang, welded it to a bent piece of all-thread (through rod with a smooth finish would have been better!) and ground the internal bevel. Worked really well for the barrel channel.

Other than those I have a set of cheap 'Mastercarver' detail chisels like these https://www.timberlywoodturning.co.n...isels--601001- and some standard straight chisels - nothing special.

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