# Outdoors > Outdoor Transport >  BJ73 Landcruiser

## gimp

Are these the parts I would need for a 50mm lift? Anything else?

4WDbits Landcruiser BJ/FJ/HJ/HZJ/PZJ 70/73 50mm Lift Front Leaf Springs 70 to 100kg 1 Pair
4WDbits Landcruiser BJ/FJ/HJ/HZJ/PZJ 70/73 50mm Lift Rear Leaf Springs 1 Pair
4WDbits Landcruiser BJ/FJ/HJ/HZJ/PZJ 70/73, FJ/HJ/FZJ/HZJ 75, Std - 80mm Lift Front Shock Absorber
4WDbits Landcruiser 60 10/85 On, BJ/FJ/HJ/HZJ/PZJ 70/73, Long Travel Rear Shock Absorber

Presumably need some bushings, shackles, u bolts also?

Also where's the best aka cheapest place to get some 33/10.5/R15 BFG ATs ? presuming they'll fit the rims


Also also anyone got a solution for a minimal bar that will fit over the PTO winch?

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## MassiveAttack

If you are going to do the suspension then it's worth replacing the steering stabilizer as well and if you are going to do that then you should probably replace the tie rod ends.

Bushings will need replacing.  You can either go with rubber and standard shackles or nolathane type synthetic bushes and greasable shackles, the rubber ones shouldn't be greased.  U bolts are also a must replace item (which also means you can just cut the old ones off) but the shackles should be ok assuming they are not damaged.

Don't forget to unhook the brake line before you drop the axle out.  It's not called the break line for nothing.

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## gimp

Cheers

Is a 3B grunty enough to spin 33s or stick with 31s?

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## MSL

The 33's will suck the life out of it. Went from 31 bfg at's to 32 mickey t muds and fuel consumption increased by 1.6l per 100, and a noticeable drop in grunt

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## gimp

That's good data but a shame

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## Timmay

You have 8"? Diffs? You will be fine with 31's. Even more so if it's a shorty

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## gimp

Middy. I think the BJ73 has 8 inch diffs yeah. I need to make a trip to Palmy to actually pick it up.

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## MassiveAttack

Within the 8 inch diff there are different ratios being 4.11 and 3.77.  I think 5.29 is available after market.  You won't know which one you have without spinning tyres and counting turns.  I put a new diff in mine at one point, wondered why it made so much noise off road only to find I had 4.11 in one end and 3.77 in the other.

I put 33s on my 40 and they are awesome.  3b should spin them I would have thought but 3b isn't way you would call grunty so you are not going to get anywhere in a hurry.

It's worth noting that a spring lift doesn't mean you can fit bigger tyres.  When the suspension is fully bottemed out then you will be resting on the bump stops just like you did with the old worn out suspension.  I had to extend my rear bump stops to fit 33s and they still rub on the inside of the rear mud guards.

Most of the 4wd club guys also do a small body life to help fit the bigger rubber.

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## mickey

> Middy. I think the BJ73 has 8 inch diffs yeah. I need to make a trip to Palmy to actually pick it up.


you probably have the bigger 9 inch diffs. (a copy of the chev 12 bolt).
the coil sprung bundera/Prado's came with 8 inch diffs.
the later 70 series came with 9 inch in the rear & a 8 inch high pinion in the front, but I'm pretty sure these has coil front suspension.

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## distant stalker

New truck seems a pretty extreme alternative to replacing the clutch in your surf...

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## gimp

I always wanted a Landcruiser... 

It's leaf sprung in the front

E: oh yeah you meant the 79 series, yeah they're coils up front

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## Roddy

You will fine with 33's, yes its a bit slower, a bit more gas but nothing to drastic and you soon get used to it.  I had a 70 with a 3f, went from 31's, then 33's then 37's  :Wtfsmilie:  and then back to 35's

The 37's were a bit over the top, never had to use 5th gear and you were never in a hurry to stop, but it made up for it with the approach and departure angles, and it looked cool on 37's.

Just like rifles, assholes and opinions, everyone has one... Just get it, drive it, enjoy it, the upgrades will come later.  70 Landcruiser's are the freaking best!!

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## gimp

This thing is not getting 33s lol


Love the wildly optimistic overspeed beeper at 105

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## jakewire

Trucking well is it?

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## MSL

Haha, already gutless on 31's?

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## gimp

Nah goes hard. Desperately need new speakers. Coming off the ferry in Picton right now, 5 hour cruise through to Hoki

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## MassiveAttack

> This thing is not getting 33s lol
> 
> 
> Love the wildly optimistic overspeed beeper at 105


I higher gear ratio will make it better at open road speeds not worse.  33s made my FJ40 criuse quite nicely.

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## gimp

hmm. clearly I need to borrow tussocks 33 Kumhos and see how it goes

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## gimp

How hard is it to get the body off and strip/paint the chassis? Have a little rust I'd like to smash before it becomes a problem since I live on the coast 

(would it cost a fortune for someone else to do it?)

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## MassiveAttack

On the one hand it's not hard and it is something you can do.  On the other hand once you have stripped it back that far it makes sense to do a complete rebuild of everything.  Don't ask me how I know this.  The dissassembly was much faster than the reassembly.

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## gimp

How'd you lift the body off? Hoist?

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## veitnamcam

Nice day at Rotoiti by the looks.

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## gimp

> Nice day at Rotoiti by the looks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G800Y using Tapatalk


Sunny as, my right arm got mad burnt

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## MassiveAttack

> How'd you lift the body off? Hoist?


I never took the body tub off, just unbolted all the panels from it, fixed all rust and removed\rebuilt all mechanicals.

Took me all weekend every weekend for a year...

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## gimp

Rust! What should I do to stop/fix this, for the meantime? Wire wheel on the grinder then hit it with some rattlecan of some kind? This is about the only bit that's of concern.





The rest of the chassis is ok but losing paint and has some minor surface rust in places



And the odd tiny bit of bubbling on the body, doors, bottom of the windscreen

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## veitnamcam

I would knock off anyloose flaking rust and then use a rust converter then paint over the top with a black zinc rattle can paint as a stop gap not get anyworse in the next year or so measure.

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## JoshC

Black magic has been the best product we've found for killing rust on machinery and vehicles. Our farms on the coast too


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## madjon_

Have a good look under that steering box

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## gimp

> Have a good look under that steering box


What for? Rust?

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## veitnamcam

> What for? Rust?


And cracks, tho that is more of a thing with 80s and independent front suspension surfs and hiluxes

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## veitnamcam

Note that for a rust converter to work you need rust on there, IE dont clean it back to white metal just knock off anything loose with a chipping hammer and hand powered wire brush.

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## longrange308

For a start that ain't rust that's a land cruiser when there's holes and shit falling of then it's rust

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## gimp

I'd like to get on top of it before it reaches that stage

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## gimp

Got a bit of an oil leak from the pinion seal on the rear diff, breather was clogged, cleared it out and hoping that solves the problem. Always seems to happen this time of year

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## gimp

Cleaned up a bit this arvo while having a cold Tuatara APA. It's not as bad as it looked but I'm still a bit worried about the active rust inside the chassis, going to buy a rattle can of fish oil and spray as much as I can in there



Tried to fit the alloys & BFG muddies off the Surf on but the offset is way wrong. Gonna just wire wheel these steelies when I get new tyres and respray them white

Rear diff is still seeping so that's a job for later in the week. Need to pull the bashplate off the gearbox/transfer case/PTO and work out where the oil is coming from there, too

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## gimp

Much better without the underbite I reckon. Considering trimming the brackets off the winch housing and just leaving it like that. Who needs a bar?

Also what's the approved temporary fix for a hole in the exhaust? It's blown through and sounds like a fuckin semi with a bit of throttle.

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## Beaker

Section of tin can (watties spagetti with extra cheese) to cover hole and some, exhaust cement smoothed on before tin can, then 2x exhaust clamps done up tight.....

Temp only .....  :Wink:

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## gimp

That was the basic plan, good to know I'm on the right track

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## gimp

Did a bit of work with the angle grinder on the winch housing, need to get a new bit fabbed up, nylon rope and a hawse fairlead, will take another 50mm off the approach angle. Also been de-rusting and repainting the bash plates, lots of stuck/broken bolts with the rust. Also changed the rear diff pinion seal which was seeping. Note improvised impact wrench. And patched the exhaust. Won't pass a WOF when it's due I assume. What would a full new 2.5" stainless exhaust cost, roughly?

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## longrange308

Coast wof man, clearly a farm truck will be sweet as
2.5 stainless would be a bit
Could sort you a 3 mild steel for f all on this side of the island

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## gimp

I figured I may as well spring for stainless and have it last?

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## 7mmsaum

> I figured I may as well spring for stainless and have it last?


Depends on the build price

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## gimp

What would a build price be for a stainless exhaust, approx? I have never done one

went for a bit of boulder hopping out on the Hoki riverbed today below the gorge

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## longrange308

dam i need to get my boat done

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## R93

You will get a boat there but might not get it back to the trailer in one piece.😆

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## longrange308

> You will get a boat there but might not get it back to the trailer in one piece.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


It's only a little boat :Thumbsup:

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## R93

So was mine😆

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## gimp

> So was mine
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


...was?

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## R93

I made it back to the trailer but the rock garden just below that pic of yours, cost me a bit knocking some rather large dents out.😆

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## gimp

Got bored after work so I cleaned, degreased, kill-rusted, and repainted the inside of the rear wheel arches with rattle-can rubberised underbody liner. Hopefully reduces road noise a bit and keeps the rust away for a while

Before

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## Wildman

Prefect use for plot sheets, water proof and all.

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## Beaker

Glad wrap also works... And no need to buy tape....

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## gimp

Is fish oil good or a waste of time? Sprayed a rattlecan of it all over my wheel wells and chassis, makes the chassis look nice and black haha and water seems to be beading off nicely

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## MSL

Doesn't last that long

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## Happy

Heres your two best new friends. This is good shit. Buy a carton of each you will not regret it 





I have just partially restored this 





Its is now so quiet and sealed up The transformation is incredible.

Mind you it used to look like this . Ha ha 1 Owner 1987 142ooo Kms . Got told I m a mongrel but there you go .



Sent it for a service and two of the guys asked me who did I use for the new under seal job  
Secret is no flaky bits. Apply heaps over a  period of time not all at once. Do the anti rust and leave it for a week before under seal.

But don't go in the river that week !!

Flood it but slowly !!!

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## chrome

Nice zuki mate


Sent from the swamp

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## Happy

> Nice zuki mate
> 
> 
> Sent from the swamp


Thanks only prob now the big block 1300 is a little under powered

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## chrome

Chuck a big block g16 under the hood.   Although I have a mate with a 1800cc Nissan serena diesel turbo in his one. 


Sent from the swamp

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## veitnamcam

> Is fish oil good or a waste of time? Sprayed a rattlecan of it all over my wheel wells and chassis, makes the chassis look nice and black haha and water seems to be beading off nicely


Park it in  the river mouth it should be good burly to attract Kahawai.

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## jakewire

I put that fish oil stuff on the deck of my xr6 before I put a tuff deck thing on it.
I sold it 9 mths later, not a spec of rust on it that I could see. :Have A Nice Day:

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## Pointer

Fish oil is pretty good, I did mine yearly when I lived on the beach in the spray zone. First vehicle rusted within months whilst there, second one was fish oiled from day dot and no issues

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## MassiveAttack

You can make your own kit for the transfer to gearbox oil return.  Drill two holds in the current fill plugs and fit brass nipples and a length of rubber fuel line with hose clamps.

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## gimp

a couple of weeks later "after" of the wheel arches. probably really need to get it up on some axle stands and do repeated coats. will be ok for now though.



also got a used hi-lift off trademe, and a spare wheel mount for it. Had to mount the jack upside-down otherwise it didn't fit without ruining my angles



Gearbox oil leak seems moderately severe, there's a big stain on the concrete under it after 9 days without moving. Going to do a bit more work on the winch housing in the next couple of weeks

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## gimp

Also have a real sag from back to front, assuming it's been lifted at some point looking at it, if a nylon winch rope & losing the weight of the steel rope doesn't even it up I might have to buy new springs for the front end

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## MassiveAttack

I agree with Tussock.  There are no short cuts in suspension and if you just get the springs reset it only lasts a short time.  Buy new springs, shocks and bushes.  New suspension bushes can make a big difference to how well it handles if the old ones are stuffed.

Did you fix the diff leak?  It's been years but I think you can do the pinion seal without disassembling the diff.  Take driveshaft off, undo big nut on diff and take off the flange on that then pop a new seal in.  Carefully do big nut up again back to the same place it was (mark it before undoing it).  Cruiser diffs are meant to leak though so in general just top it up.

There is a whole art and science to rusty cruiser bolts.  Heat it red hot with the propane torch and then spray crc on it.  The heating and rapid cooling cycle breaks the bond on the rust and the cooling of the crc hitting bolt sucks it into the thread.  Work the bolt back and forwards for a bit so the crc works into the thread and then undo carefully.  Not breaking them is a lot easier than getting the broken bolt out!

I brought a large set of the most common sized of bolts with captive washers from a panelbeater supply place.  Before reassembling I run a tap through the old captive nut in the chassis and then put in a brand new plated bolt with either anti seize or locktight on it.

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## gimp

Yeah I did the pinion seal, it was no dramas, took about an hour and a half. Still seems to have a slight seep from somewhere, thinking the pinion flange might be a little work


I will have to get a propane torch. Sick of breaking bolts. Anyone know where I can get a big bag 'o landcruiser bolts? Seem to be heaps of those short ones with the 14mm head

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## rupert

re rust in the body. Has anyone tried attaching sacrificial zinc anodes to avoid rust. This is the same premise that is used on steel hulled sea going vessels. I think that zinc wheel weights might do the trick.

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## Dan88

you can buy a whole electronic setup that attatches to the chassis and somehow stops it rusting. they seem quite common in the aussie 4x4 magazines

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## longrange308

> Yeah I did the pinion seal, it was no dramas, took about an hour and a half. Still seems to have a slight seep from somewhere, thinking the pinion flange might be a little work
> 
> 
> I will have to get a propane torch. Sick of breaking bolts. Anyone know where I can get a big bag 'o landcruiser bolts? Seem to be heaps of those short ones with the 14mm head


Is the breather blocked?
Or a grove where the seal runs

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## MassiveAttack

> Yeah I did the pinion seal, it was no dramas, took about an hour and a half. Still seems to have a slight seep from somewhere, thinking the pinion flange might be a little work
> 
> 
> I will have to get a propane torch. Sick of breaking bolts. Anyone know where I can get a big bag 'o landcruiser bolts? Seem to be heaps of those short ones with the 14mm head


Heating and cooling it is the secret.  The bolt expands at a different rate than the nut\chassie that it's bolted to so the expansion\contraction cycle breaks the rust weld between bolt and nut.  Do this first and then apply lubricant so the lubricant can get into the thread.  Run a tap through the captive nut afterwards.

I brought a whole box of those short 14mm bolts with captive washers from a panelbeater supply place so ask around.  It's lots simpler than trying to save the old ones.

I did some work on my FJ40 over the weekend after parking it up for 4 years.  I at least need a new radiator and breaks but at least the engine still turns over...

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## gimp

Does anyone have the faintest idea what sort of offset I need on 15" rims for this beast? & what width I need for 31x10.5 tyres? (assuming like 8")

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## Mathias

15x8 -19 offset is what I put on my BJ70 Cruza. With 31x10.5 the tyre walls just poked out of the guards, which is ok. VTNZ don't like tread past the guard line.

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## MassiveAttack

+1 what Mathias said.  You want 15x8 inch rims for an off roader as a small diameter means more rubber sidewall to soak up the bumps.  You want a narrow rim so the sidewall baloones out otherwise the edge between the tyre and the rim is exposed and crap get in there and causes a flat when you are 4wding through ruts etc...

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## gimp

Tyres for 16" rims seem to cost more anyway. Have 15xsomething at the moment, just considering whether to repaint or just buy new rims

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## gadgetman

> Tyres for 16" rims seem to cost more anyway. Have 15xsomething at the moment, just considering whether to repaint or just buy new rims


It was cheaper for me to change from 16" to new 15" rims and tyres than just get 16" tyres. Get better selection and cushioning with the 15".

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## gimp

Picked up the truck today after having some bits fabbed up and installed for the winch housing, I figured I may as well get the snorkel installed at the same time since I was going to be out of town and not have time to do it. Looks good, shit myself at the price. Gotta buy me an arc welder.... Spooled up the new dyneema winch rope. Still gotta get around to re-installing the bash plates for under the winch, radiator etc, but the mods to the winch housing look to have improved the approach angle a fair bit. Need to find a better spot for the license plate

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## MassiveAttack

You are now lacking a picnic table for when you stop for lunch.

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## gimp

True, that is one downside. Maybe I'll hang a fold-down table on one of the rear doors. I can make it when I buy a welder.

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## 199p

Just chuck the plate inside the windscreen  :Have A Nice Day:

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## Sideshow

> Just chuck the plate inside the windscreen


If you do that make sure you fix it down....saw a farmer in Namibia all most scalp him self when the plate that he had on the dash board smaked him one when he hit a Kudu :X X:

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## gimp

Sorted my dual stereo/no cupholder situation today. Still need new speakers & probably some bigger ones in the back rather than just the 2 4" jobs under the dash

Before


After

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## jakewire

now I can see it.

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## Chop3r

Time you mowed the lawns Pete

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## gimp

Got a LED dome light conversion. Much brighter than the 1985 incandescent. Have not tested it at night yet.

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## Wildman

Cant be worse than the old one although your mood lighting has taken a severe hit now...

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## gimp

Yeah but I can find my keys in the dark when they fall out of the ignition going around a corner now

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## Timmay

gimp, one thing to look at is a new wiring harness for your main headlights, most cars of that era go through he actual steering wheel switch (ie tiny as fuck wires) which means low power. I changed out mine for a  150w set up with a new bulb but standard housing and OMG the difference is night and day (1994 Patrol)

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## gimp

I'll have a look at that, cheers.

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## gimp

D'you reckon this is normal play in this PTO shaft?

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## madjon_

NO! :Zomg:

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## gimp

Me too. Dangit

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## veitnamcam

> Me too. Dangit


Yea its a bit worn alright, got a mate who is handy with a welder and grinder? He could build up the male part to fit the wear in the female and get a few more years out of it.

Altho a new part may not be that expensive if your lucky.

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## gimp

Where would I get parts in NZ? Looking for door weatherstripping etc - found it online in Oz but is there a good NZ source? I like online shopping but I guess I should just call my local Toyota dealer with part numbers?

Clutch gave out last weekend while a mate was borrowing the truck, had to drive up the Greymouth with the gf and top up/bleed the system to get it back home. It's been leaking from the master cylinder through the clutch booster & through the firewall, paint is stripped under the carpet & lightly rusted. Not sure what I'll do about that as presumably the carpet/felt is still soaked with brake fluid so there's presumably not much point re-painting? Cleaned it up and rust-killed it anyway. Also have a new master cylinder and have drained the clutch system, waiting for a 10mm flare wrench and blowtorch to arrive this week to get the old clutch line off. Probably need to have a look at the clutch booster/seals also but don't really know til I get it off. Apparently about 1200AU for a new genuine Toyota booster, if you can find one.... Might have to look at getting it rebuilt. Presumably some playing with the vacuum hoses will tell me whether it's working or not.

Drivers footwell/firewall under the carpet/felting







Also found a lot of rust in my passenger door (noticed it while bleeding the clutch) so I spent this afternoon making space in the garage then pushed the truck inside and stripped/pulled the front door, going to the local panel beaters tomorrow to get cut out & welded. 

Only fits with about 80mm clearance overhead, good thing I haven't bought suspension parts yet




One patch of rust - it's also rusted out badly along the bottom where water obviously pools, sort of behind the weatherstripping.


Also started finding/pulling some mystery dead wiring the other day, traced one wire back along the chassis to disappear into the rear quarter, pulled the tail lights and found some minor rust starting

Cleaning & rust killing





My rear right quarter also appears to have a healthy coating of bog on quite a lot of it. Doesn't go right through so presumably it had some surface rust that needed filling at some point?? There is however some minor surface rust starting on the back of the taillight recesses inside the read quarters.




Current plan is to fix a few mechanical things and any bad rust I find, then next summer strip and fully repaint everything taking care of whatever rust I find, also chuck in suspension, turbo, new rims & tyres at the same time. FRP top needs some love, also want to build a rear bumper with spare wheel carrier to take the weight off the door so I'm on the lookout for an arc welder...

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## madjon_

Ain't old Toyotas fun :Grin: 
Weatherstripping for my 89/93hilux is only available x Japan.gutter rubber over drivers side $240 NZD

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## gimp

I'm thoroughly enjoying how easy things are to take apart! Except for rusty bolts - hence the blowtorch that is coming...

Snapped a rusty bolt off in my mates Hilux alternator last weekend and spent 3 days trying to get it out, eventually went for the $20 to the local engineering shop solution. Never again! (Use the right tools, patience and do the job properly, and have a welder on hand to tack on something to get it out if the first two options fail)

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## Sideshow

Your getting there though :Have A Nice Day:  which is the main point ah.

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## gimp

Does anywhere in NZ sell genuine Toyota parts cheaper than a dealership? Frickin 700+ bucks for parts that would be 320+ shipping from an online seller in the us

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## Wildman

> Does anywhere in NZ sell genuine Toyota parts cheaper than a dealership? Frickin 700+ bucks for parts that would be 320+ shipping from an online seller in the us


Have you looked in Australia? Better exchange rate and heaps of cruiser owners.

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## gimp

I found a source for Genuine Parts ex Japan and UAE of all places. Much cheaper than Toyota NZ.


Got my door back and installed. Waiting on a used clutch booster. Have been seconded to Invercargill for work for the winter so I'll have to have an operational truck inside the next week to drive the 660 odd km down there. At least there are more tools/parts stores down there than in Hoki!! First job will be a new exhaust when I get there I think - 2.5" mild steel probably

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## gimp

Got my clutch sorted at the end of April before moving down to Invercargill for the winter. Bought a used clutch booster off trademe but that didn't fit properly, so I cleaned up the old booster and chucked it back in as a connecting rod of sorts with a new master cylinder, it worked.

Have done about 1400 k's with no problems since. Managed to get a 11.3 L per 100km highway k's, with a bit of a load of gear on, doing 95-105k's per hour where possible (it's not possible up the hills...)

Got a new exhaust fitted today, 2 1/2 inch system with a free-flow muffler. Cut off the old exhaust a couple feet downstream of the manifold and attached the new system there - when I turbo in the near future, it'll be a matter of cutting it off where it is connected to the old exhaust, throwing that away, and hooking up a downpipes. Welds are a bit rough, reckon I should have bought a welder and had a go myself. 



Also got some rad new alloys, 15x7 -13mm offset, whipped off one of my current mystery steelies and the new alloys appear to only have 2-7mm less offset (it's hard to measure) so they ought to fit; I have heaps of clearance around everything. Going to get my tyres fitted to them this weekend.




Anyone recognise these alloys so I can try track down a 5th one for the spare?

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## gimp

Went to Macetown today. Didn't get stuck in a blizzard. And shot some bunnies yesterday (not at Macetown)











My brakes started playing up today. Intermittent (!) light on the dash, hard pedal, poor braking. Was very non-functional at one point which was concerning, then function returned. Thought it was the brake booster but it appears to be working as per test in the FSM (pump pedal with engine off, hold pedal down and start engine, pedal moves down a little = booster working). Plenty of meat on the pads at the front, reservoir not leaking and hasn't lost any fluid in the 6 months I've had it. Vac pump pulling at least some vacuum per the "thumb over vac hose" test. Help. Not really sure where to go from here? Bleed the lines and adjust the rear drums and hope it goes away? Vacuum leak?

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## longrange308

Light on dash and hard pedal is a vacuum leak, check all hoses
Even a small one with a split will do it
Or if You are realy unlucky the spline on the vacuum pump is on its way out

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## gimp

Thanks, will look at/replace hoses tonight.

"How much" vacuum should the pump be pulling? Ie if I put a vacuum gauge on it. Cannot find any specs. Thumb over the hose pulls a bit into the hose but not uncomfortable at all

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## gimp

The Fix

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## MassiveAttack

> I'm thoroughly enjoying how easy things are to take apart! Except for rusty bolts - hence the blowtorch that is coming...
> 
> Snapped a rusty bolt off in my mates Hilux alternator last weekend and spent 3 days trying to get it out, eventually went for the $20 to the local engineering shop solution. Never again! (Use the right tools, patience and do the job properly, and have a welder on hand to tack on something to get it out if the first two options fail)


Thats the one.  Don't break them in the first place.  Get it red hot (if you can) with the propane torch, cool it down with crc and the heating\cooling cycle breaks the rust bond and sucks the crc into the thread.  Work it backwards and fowards slowly and take it all the way out.

If you do break a nut then often you can get it out by either cutting a slot in what remains with a dremmel and using a flat bladed screwdriver or by welding a nut onto what remains and taking it out that way.

Replace with a new bolt and run a tap through the thread for good luck.

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## MassiveAttack

> Does anywhere in NZ sell genuine Toyota parts cheaper than a dealership? Frickin 700+ bucks for parts that would be 320+ shipping from an online seller in the us


It's been years since I brought any land cruiser parts (actually decades as the catalog has 1999 on it) but these blokes used to be the absolute snizzle

NZ 4wd Parts and Accessories (Auckland)
09 2636021
info@4wd.co.nz

I have a complete break booster off a HJ60 in my garage if it's compatable and any use to you.

The best way to handle this is to buy another cruiser with a clapped out motor and park it in a shed for spares.

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## gimp

> Thats the one.  Don't break them in the first place.  Get it red hot (if you can) with the propane torch, cool it down with crc and the heating\cooling cycle breaks the rust bond and sucks the crc into the thread.  Work it backwards and fowards slowly and take it all the way out.
> 
> If you do break a nut then often you can get it out by either cutting a slot in what remains with a dremmel and using a flat bladed screwdriver or by welding a nut onto what remains and taking it out that way.
> 
> Replace with a new bolt and run a tap through the thread for good luck.


I tried the cutting a slot method in the broken bolt in that alternator, it did not work. Then I snapped off an ez-out in it. Then I tried to drill that out. Then I took it to my local welder and he charged me 20 bucks to tack a bit of steel on and wind it out. Then I decided to buy a welder.

----------


## gimp

> It's been years since I brought any land cruiser parts (actually decades as the catalog has 1999 on it) but these blokes used to be the absolute snizzle
> 
> NZ 4wd Parts and Accessories (Auckland)
> 09 2636021
> info@4wd.co.nz
> 
> I have a complete break booster off a HJ60 in my garage if it's compatable and any use to you.
> 
> The best way to handle this is to buy another cruiser with a clapped out motor and park it in a shed for spares.


Cheers

Booster appears fine; the brake issue was a vacuum leak from my busted clutch booster.... solved by simply disconnecting that and capping the outlet on the vacuum reservoir for it. Will remove the reservoir and fittings for it from the vacuum pump some time which will make some space and properly solve the problem. The clutch booster is going in the bin, going to adapt a clutch master from a non-boosted cruiser to fit mine, just have to knock a captive nut off the firewall and modify the clutch line I think. Which will make even more space around that right hand side of the engine...

----------


## MassiveAttack

> I tried the cutting a slot method in the broken bolt in that alternator, it did not work. Then I snapped off an ez-out in it. Then I tried to drill that out. Then I took it to my local welder and he charged me 20 bucks to tack a bit of steel on and wind it out. Then I decided to buy a welder.


The ez outs are hardened steel so if you break one of those you are really in trouble!  Welding a nut to it heats it up as well which can break the rust seal.  There is a black art to rusty bolts.

----------


## gadgetman

> The ez outs are hardened steel so if you break one of those you are really in trouble!


Unless you know how to do it.

----------


## gimp

Spent the morning mucking around doing little bits and pieces. 

Moved my license plate bracket 


Had ordered new hood bumpers which had arrived so I replaced them.

Old and busted


Doesn't line up properly

New and shiny

Adjusted these also


Lines up nicely. New bumpers didn't actually do shit to help it line up but oh well they cost $16 for 4


Fixed the outer door weatherstripping on my passenger door and put in the new window seals. Old and busted


New and actually sealing


Removed the vac reservoir for the clutch booster. So much more room!


Fixed my drivers door lock/diesel cap cylinders, this was easy 


Put bash plates back on underneath also, drilled out a broken bolt and tapped the hole to 10x1.5. Ran an m8 tap through all the other bolt holes and ran the bolts through a die nut.

Then discovered my injector pump is leaking 

http://youtu.be/bZExeg0_N_M

Other parts that have arrived are valve cover gasket for when I do my valve clearances, shifter seat bushing and seal, and gasket and cover and bolts for PTO output on the xfer case, but I might keep the PTO winch now, having priced up Warn electric winches

----------


## p0stal b0b

Hey Gimp, nice write-up, thanks for doing it. I'm looking for a new vehicle, & was hoping to get something that could be used for daily driving, farm driving, basic off-roading, spotlighting, etc. I was thinking of getting the same model Cruiser as yours, removing the hardtop & getting a soft top made up for it. Any advice or wisdom you could pass on regarding my intended all-around usage, & your experience so far with the vehicle? Cheers!  :Grin: 

Oh, hi from TFR too...  :Have A Nice Day:

----------


## gimp

> Hey Gimp, nice write-up, thanks for doing it. I'm looking for a new vehicle, & was hoping to get something that could be used for daily driving, farm driving, basic off-roading, spotlighting, etc. I was thinking of getting the same model Cruiser as yours, removing the hardtop & getting a soft top made up for it. Any advice or wisdom you could pass on regarding my intended all-around usage, & your experience so far with the vehicle? Cheers! 
> 
> Oh, hi from TFR too...



They're rad. Get a BJ74 or HZJ73 if you can - the BJ74 has the 13BT 3.4 turbo engine, and the HZJ73 has the 1HZ 4.2, they're both a bit more grunty than my anaemic 3.4L 3B, it struggles a little on the highway. Realistically it's fine though, you just end up going over the Crown Range in 3rd at 50km instead of 4th at 70.

 Factory soft top versions come up occasionally but they're pretty uncommon. I dunno how hard/expensive it would be to get a soft top made. It wouldn't be practical to take the hardtop on and off all the time, it's pretty heavy and I think you'd end up stuffing the seals. Also the rear doors would need to be cut down into half-doors if you wanted to do a custom soft top. And you'd need to make some kind cage cos there isn't anything to support a soft top at the back. 

I'm getting about 11.6L/100km average for highway driving, about 13L/100km mixed highway/city. Efficient/cheap enough as a daily driver. It's extremely fun to drive/own


If you want something that's a semi-capable 4wd, decent daily driver, etc, with an easily removable top, there's always the Daihatsu Rocky - lightweight rear hardtop that can be removed and a targa top in the front which just pops out. Be more waterproof/secure than a softtop of any description and they're pretty good little trucks

----------


## gimp

My old Rocky was cool







I disconnected my non-functional aircon by the simple method of removing the belt and the idler pulley. Now to sit back and enjoy my improved fuel economy without all that parasitic drag. Power steering idler pulley feels like it's on the way out, will have to replace it.


Also decided to check the shifter seat bushing, since apparently they wear out and I had bought a spare one. Turns out mine is fine, which should have been obvious given that I have very little slop in my shifter. Then I spent an hour pulling the interior apart to try get the 4 tiny bolts that hold the shifter boot on back in, frickin carpet was in the way.



Also removed a bunch of junk wiring that used to be hooked up to spotlights, which I am never going to want. Didn't electrocute myself and the radio gets better reception, bonus. 


Any ideas what that finned aluminium whatsit is? because it's clearly not factory, has a mystery hot wire to it off the battery which is routed in the most retarded fashion along the chassis, wonder if it's cool to just rip it out

----------


## Timmay

fix ya pics  :Psmiley:

----------


## gimp

> fix ya pics


way ahead of you

----------


## striker

is it 24v? it could be a voltage converter maybe, cant see the pics that well off a phone

----------


## gimp

Yeah the truck is 24V

----------


## p0stal b0b

> They're rad. Get a BJ74 or HZJ73 if you can - the BJ74 has the 13BT 3.4 turbo engine, and the HZJ73 has the 1HZ 4.2, they're both a bit more grunty than my anaemic 3.4L 3B, it struggles a little on the highway. Realistically it's fine though, you just end up going over the Crown Range in 3rd at 50km instead of 4th at 70.
> 
>  Factory soft top versions come up occasionally but they're pretty uncommon. I dunno how hard/expensive it would be to get a soft top made. It wouldn't be practical to take the hardtop on and off all the time, it's pretty heavy and I think you'd end up stuffing the seals. Also the rear doors would need to be cut down into half-doors if you wanted to do a custom soft top. And you'd need to make some kind cage cos there isn't anything to support a soft top at the back. 
> 
> I'm getting about 11.6L/100km average for highway driving, about 13L/100km mixed highway/city. Efficient/cheap enough as a daily driver. It's extremely fun to drive/own
> 
> 
> If you want something that's a semi-capable 4wd, decent daily driver, etc, with an easily removable top, there's always the Daihatsu Rocky - lightweight rear hardtop that can be removed and a targa top in the front which just pops out. Be more waterproof/secure than a softtop of any description and they're pretty good little trucks


Great info, cheers. I'll look for a turbo version, I reckon. Fabbing up a cage, or even better, some removable supports for a soft top wouldn't be a problem. I looked at the Rocky, but I currently drive a 3-door Suzuki Escudo, & I was looking for something with a bit more room, & some towing power. Also something that doesn't feel like I'm hooning along in a tupperware container full of loose lego bricks at highway speeds...  :Psmiley:

----------


## Mathias

Also a heap or relays in that other pix by the looks. Maybe they are set up to run a trailer plug on 12v off that voltage converter? Have you got a towbar etc?

----------


## gimp

Yeah I didn't think all those relays and that rats nest looked particularly like something Mr Toyota would have put there

Have a towbar, haven't checked to see if any of that runs to the trailer socket

----------


## gimp

Turns out it is a voltage converter, hooked into the light circuits for the trailer plug, with very light gauge wire and extremely ghetto connections, with a hot wire from the battery routed in an exceptionally retarded route along the chassis. Better leave it in and not fry every trailer I hire. But might tidy up the wiring at some point.





Also I have a leak around my windscreen.

----------


## Chilli_Dog

> They're rad. Get a BJ74 or HZJ73 if you can - the BJ74 has the 13BT 3.4 turbo engine, and the HZJ73 has the 1HZ 4.2, they're both a bit more grunty than my anaemic 3.4L 3B, it struggles a little on the highway. Realistically it's fine though, you just end up going over the Crown Range in 3rd at 50km instead of 4th at 70.
> 
>  Factory soft top versions come up occasionally but they're pretty uncommon. I dunno how hard/expensive it would be to get a soft top made. It wouldn't be practical to take the hardtop on and off all the time, it's pretty heavy and I think you'd end up stuffing the seals. Also the rear doors would need to be cut down into half-doors if you wanted to do a custom soft top. And you'd need to make some kind cage cos there isn't anything to support a soft top at the back. 
> 
> I'm getting about 11.6L/100km average for highway driving, about 13L/100km mixed highway/city. Efficient/cheap enough as a daily driver. It's extremely fun to drive/own
> 
> 
> If you want something that's a semi-capable 4wd, decent daily driver, etc, with an easily removable top, there's always the Daihatsu Rocky - lightweight rear hardtop that can be removed and a targa top in the front which just pops out. Be more waterproof/secure than a softtop of any description and they're pretty good little trucks


How accurate is your millage? I would have thought it would have been a bit better than that being diesel, the family commodore does 11.3L/100 mixed and way down for highway and it probably weighs more than that and is full time 4wd

----------


## MassiveAttack

If you have a windscreen leek then you have rust in the windscreen frame as wel because moisture will sit betweent he seal and the metal.

----------


## rupert

I also have a leak around the windscreen and it is the usual problem, the windscreen surround has to be replaced. I've been looking for one for about 6 months but I always seem to be a bit late in the race ('sorry mate, its gone'). According to an interesting US website the windscreen problem is created by using the air conditioning unit which draws moisture into the frame and the moisture stays there and rusts out the steel. This scenario results in a new windscreen surround every 10 years.  If you don't use the air conditioning the surround does not rust.

----------


## gimp

> If you have a windscreen leek then you have rust in the windscreen frame as wel because moisture will sit betweent he seal and the metal.


I absolutely have rust in my windscreen frame.

----------


## gimp

> I also have a leak around the windscreen and it is the usual problem, the windscreen surround has to be replaced. I've been looking for one for about 6 months but I always seem to be a bit late in the race ('sorry mate, its gone'). According to an interesting US website the windscreen problem is created by using the air conditioning unit which draws moisture into the frame and the moisture stays there and rusts out the steel. This scenario results in a new windscreen surround every 10 years.  If you don't use the air conditioning the surround does not rust.


Fibreglass Replacement Panels in Australia do a replacement frame from F/glass, I intend to get one.

----------


## Beaker

> Fibreglass Replacement Panels in Australia do a replacement frame from F/glass, I intend to get one.


I'll bring it from Brisbane next week as oversized luggage if you want.  Must be like a bike box size? Might save on shipping - no promise on reduced fee though!  :Have A Nice Day: 
PM me if you want me to.

----------


## gimp

Cheers for the offer - that'd be legendary - but it's not high on my priority list at the moment.

----------


## Beaker

Well let me know when your sorted, as I'm back and forward to Oz (not just Brisbane) quite a bit. Might beable to help.

----------


## gimp

Cheers, will do.

----------


## gimp

> How accurate is your millage? I would have thought it would have been a bit better than that being diesel, the family commodore does 11.3L/100 mixed and way down for highway and it probably weighs more than that and is full time 4wd



It's accurate. It's a brick-shaped truck from 1985 with mud tyres.

----------


## Sideshow

Gimp strange question but who is the alien/ghost in your wing mirror on page eight? :Zomg:

----------


## gimp

I don't have a page eight, so I cannot provide any help

----------


## 223nut

@Sideshow, i see what you mean must be something normal but looks like a scream mask. your looking way too much at the photo to notice it though

----------


## madjon_

Weird.

----------


## gimp

oh yeah that's my flatmate Dave, he's alright

----------


## madjon_

> oh yeah that's my flatmate Dave, he's alright


How bout full moon? :Have A Nice Day:

----------


## gimp

Picked up 4 factory Prado alloys today, with pretty worn 10R15 Bridgestone ATs on them, chucked them on for the drive home and got 11L/100km of diesel, not bad with 150kg of other wheels/tyres in the back. They're a slightly larger tyre than the Kumho muddies, Prado rims are a good fit and should be straightforward to find a 5th for the spare - there are 4 different wrecking Prados listed on trademe right now with these rims.

Shiny & new & an extremely saggy arse with 150kg of wheels in the back, made for a lot of body roll driving home

----------


## gadgetman

You change much more of that thing and the only original bit will be the shaddow.

----------


## gimp

I GOT A BOX




Also 10.8L/100km today Invers to Hoki via Haast with the new alloys and worn ATs

----------


## Chop3r

You lucky man Gimp. I have been checking out the progress of you and the beast for a wee while. Becoming quite the man with the tools, good to see bro

----------


## Sideshow

Yes, next you will be in the shed bolting stuff on your gun for a full custom job :XD:

----------


## jakewire

It'll be a flying brick shortly.

----------


## Wildman

> It'll be a flying brick shortly.


Can we call it the corelokt? Who would own a truck with such a shit bc?

----------


## gimp

> Yes, next you will be in the shed bolting stuff on your gun for a full custom job


Not a chance, but I appreciate the irony

----------


## gimp

> Can we call it the corelokt? Who would own a truck with such a shit bc?


Shit BC but better mileage than the 2016 Hilux at work, probably cos it's short about 400kg of electronics and plastic crap

----------


## Wildman

> Shit BC but better mileage than the 2016 Hilux at work, probably cos it's short about 400kg of electronics and plastic crap


And you're not paying for gas at work...

----------


## gimp

> And you're not paying for gas at work...


No, so of course I make every effort to conserve it 

In other news

----------


## jakewire

looks like a musical instrument. Some sort of Horn.

----------


## Timmay

Ive got a low boost circa 8pis turbo on my Patrol, it certainly breathes life into the old girls.

----------


## norsk

> looks like a musical instrument. Some sort of Horn.


No.Its an Artistic model of a Nautilus shell.

----------


## MSL

It's the key to the money pit

----------


## gimp

It turns out I bought the wrong turbo which is a great start to this project. Turns out the T25 comes in various different compressor A/Rs and I bought one that is too big for me

----------


## Wildman

> It turns out I bought the wrong turbo which is a great start to this project. Turns out the T25 comes in various different compressor A/Rs and I bought one that is too big for me


You needed the sunny climate odd raro to discover this?

----------


## gimp

Well I was told "Buy a T25" and it was advertised as a T25 so I bought it and then I was told "no that's not a T25 it's a T28" but I think it's just a T25 with a bigger compressor A/R than the one I want. but they don't make these things easy and stamp "T25" on them anywhere. Also it doesn't matter cos it's not gonna work on the 3b, short story

----------


## gimp

but I did jump further into the money pit by buying a second, hopefully actually suitable, turbo.

----------


## 7mmsaum

> but I did jump further into the money pit by buying a second, hopefully actually suitable, turbo.


You can design your exhaust manifold/extractors to increase exhaust velocity to the turbine wheel negating the negative effect of a slightly larger turbo.

Also, if you have the right sized turbo this design makes the turbo spool up sooner

----------


## longrange308

I'm crossing my fingers that it's a holset with anti surge front cover
So you can wind window down and listen to it suck like a $2 hooker

----------


## gimp

Had a problem with my intake hosing.




Probably not ideal for my engine to be sucking in huge amounts of unfiltered air, so I fixed it. Now it sounds epic sucking through the snorkel again. Hopefully it didn't ingest too much unfiltered shit. Not a great fix cos I'm a retard and bought 2" silicon and pipe off the Internet and probably would've been better off with 2 1/4 or something to match the existing crossover pipe. Whatever 




Also finally tackled my extremely stubborn fuel filter, I'd looked at it before and it refused to move so I just left it, figuring it'd be fine. Got it off and a new one on after some effort. Seems to run a little nicer now. Maybe.

----------


## Mathias

Hope that new bit of pipe is not too rigid or you will break off your filter housing or split the rubber 90 going into the inlet manifold. I've seen it happen with a similar substitution instead of factory parts  :XD:

----------


## gimp

Good point. Hopefully there'll be a snail on there soon and I wanted bits I could reuse for that

----------


## gimp

New shoes. 10R15 Dueler ATs, not the best but cheap and will keep me on the road better than the old ones I had....




Having some starting issues which I think are related to air in the fuel lines from a stuffed fuel filter primer pump, have got a used one coming for 30 bucks, will see if it resolves things

----------


## Tahr

I'm enjoying this thread gimp. I reckon you could sell the publishing rights to Popular Mechanic.

----------


## veitnamcam

Whens the turbo going on !!!???

And yea that motor will slop side to side on and off the throttle so you need some flex in the intake.

----------


## gimp

> Whens the turbo going on !!!???


Over summer sometime, I'm gathering parts still and don't want to pull my engine apart in someone's driveway with no cover in Invercargill, will do it in my own garage in Hokitika


Intake has a little flex but not much, will get some different silicon to soften it up when I get home next week

----------


## longrange308

When I get leaking primers I fit a one way valve 
Works a treat

----------


## gimp

> When I get leaking primers I fit a one way valve 
> Works a treat


downstream of the filter? good idea

----------


## longrange308

Between pump and filter 
Stops the pump getting syphoned buy filter

----------


## longrange308

Cheap as too

----------


## gimp

> Between pump and filter 
> Stops the pump getting syphoned buy filter


Yup that's what I meant. Sweet if the junkyard primer doesn't fix it I'll do that

----------


## veitnamcam

> Between pump and filter 
> Stops the pump getting syphoned buy filter


isnt that just letting air in tho? Better to replace the primer yea?

----------


## longrange308

Yeah better to do a new primer, but al the second hand ones are all old as well
Also trying to tell people they need a 200+ primer so they can start in the morning and get max performance 
Or fit a $10 one way valve so they can start in morning 
I'm sure you can guess  what gets fitted

----------


## longrange308

Yeah better to do a new primer, but al the second hand ones are all old as well
Also trying to tell people they need a 200+ primer so they can start in the morning and get max performance 
Or fit a $10 one way valve so they can start in morning 
I'm sure you can guess  what gets fitted

----------


## norsk

From memory the hand primer assembly has a copper washer under it.put a new washer under it when you get it

----------


## Dr. Watson

Hmmm just a note. That T28 should be a good match for that engine- I would put it on.

----------


## gimp

> Hmmm just a note. That T28 should be a good match for that engine- I would put it on.


I'm advised that it's too large, and I sold it for what I paid and got a more suitable T25 anyway

----------


## gimp

So the replacement fuel filter primer I got for 30 bucks used, doesn't fit, I need part number 23301-64090 and that appears to have been discontinued. Wonder if the assembly from a 1HZ would fit.

----------


## 7mmsaum

Fit an elec pump to increase your primary fuel pressure if you have to

----------


## 223nut

And the chassis will be the only original part left

----------


## Markgibsonr25

Diesel bros nz division

----------


## gimp

I've found something I think will work, could you just take a photo of yours ?

----------


## 7mmsaum

You can buy diesel fuel hand primers for boating applications that mount to your firewall/wheel well if you only need it to prime the lines after a 50,000 km fuel filter change, or you run dry.

Not that expensive

----------


## gimp

I got bored and got the angle grinder out and made my old chrome bumper fit the modified winch housing, cos I thought it looked a bit weird with nothing in front of the wheels. I think it looks pretty good

----------


## Wildman

> I got bored and got the angle grinder out and made my old chrome bumper fit the modified winch housing, cos I thought it looked a bit weird with nothing in front of the wheels. I think it looks pretty good


So does it just sit flatter against the front now? IE less step?

----------


## Timmay

The picnic table was a good feature!

----------


## gimp

Yeah it sticks out like 4 inches less than it did as the shelf. Went and explored some mysterious tracks to nowhere and forestry. Found a promising looking spot to go for a bush stalk. The Bridgestone ATs did pretty good, had some good wheel spin up some clay hills but dragged me through it

----------


## gimp

> Actually, do you want me to look at the bars? Mine was the big chrome thing and tube bullbars and the bars might be shoehorned onto yours if you wanted to have a play.



Cheers but I think I'm cool with not having bullbars at the moment

----------


## gimp

> Also
> Attachment 54655
> 
> Please tell me you have one of these so I don't have to find an alternative to it
> This thing not working trashed my transfer case prior to me getting the vehicle. Dick previous owner had pulled the bulb out of the 4x4 light.
> Attachment 54656
> 
> I'v been avoiding popping that bonnet but tearing the bandage off was not so bad.
> 
> Thats fresh bird nest, its that time of year again.


You should be able to get one of those for a 1HZ off trademe for like $62, but also you should be able to get the filter off without breaking it

You have an H55F? You can convert them to a fully manual transfer case  apparently, if you can get the parts. Or just find a fully manual xfer case somewhere and bolt it on I guess

----------


## gimp

Get your landcruiser working again Tim

----------


## gimp

Oh I mean the fuel filter housing on trademe, but I can get those VSVs for my model of truck for like $50 US from the net so they should still be around for the HZJ77

e: maybe not actually. whoops, hope mine don't die

----------


## gimp

I have the same thing. Except mine works flawlessly. Wonder if you can get the vsv fixed. Also I think putting it in 4LO engages the tfer case even if the vacuum doesn't 



I changed a leaky hose and flushed my coolant.



And this happened

----------


## veitnamcam

A breeding pair!

----------


## Timmay

TBH though, you need two just to keep one of them on the road...

#JustToyotaThings

----------


## gimp

The new one belongs to my flatmate Dave

----------


## ROKTOY

> TBH though, you need two just to keep one of them on the road...
> 
> #JustToyotaThings


Not Wrong

----------


## Timmay

"Dave"

----------


## madjon_

> "Dave"

----------


## keneff

> Rust! What should I do to stop/fix this, for the meantime? Wire wheel on the grinder then hit it with some rattlecan of some kind? This is about the only bit that's of concern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rest of the chassis is ok but losing paint and has some minor surface rust in places
> 
> 
> ...


Have found "Rustroy" to be very effective on the cancer

----------


## gimp

My injector pump is seriously pissing diesel

----------


## Timmay

Haha yep, old girls are long in the tooth. 
Check it isn't something simple, my patrol did the same but turned out it was a $20 fuel cut solenoid

----------


## gimp

Will have to look at it next week. Diesel is cheap at least!

----------


## veitnamcam

If it is the seal where the throtle is it is like a 2 dollar part and a piece of piss to replace.
If it is the main drive shaft seal or any gasket you may as well pull it and do all the seals and fit a boost compensator for when you fit the turbo.

Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk

----------


## Smiddy

Super Gimp Power


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

----------


## Bonecrusher

[QUOTE=gimp;516277]I have the same thing. Except mine works flawlessly. Wonder if you can get the vsv fixed. Also I think putting it in 4LO engages the tfer case even if the vacuum doesn't 

[URL=http://s58.photobucket.com/user/gimpsuitjones/media/DCF7A6CC

Should have practiced safe sex Gimp look what they produced for your next truck

----------


## gimp

> Super Gimp Power
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ah ha

----------


## gimp

I did the unthinkable and dropped it off at a Toyota service place to get the leak fixed because I don't have time to try do it myself in the next 10 days and it was becoming a problem

----------


## MassiveAttack

Re the transfer case.  I have the entier guts out of a vacume operated transfer case in a box with each part carefully sealed into a labeled zip loc bag.  Keen to get it out of my garage if it's of any help.  Will swap for bottle of single malt.

----------


## gimp

^^ I shall consider it, thanks


Finally got around to buying a Chinese primer pump for a 1pz off the internet, arrived and installed today, works as far as I can tell, fits perfect, $52



Has been blowing a lot of black smoke since I had the IP seal done, going to check my valve clearances, and if that doesn't fix it I'll have to take it to a diesel shop to get the IP or injectors looked at I guess? May have been smoking before but I never noticed it

----------


## gimp

Starts like magic after swapping the fuel filter primer, first crank after sitting for 8 days. Did spew a big spray of soot(?) out of the exhaust onto my garage wall though

----------


## 7mmsaum

> Starts like magic after swapping the fuel filter primer, first crank after sitting for 8 days. Did spew a big spray of soot(?) out of the exhaust onto my garage wall though


Quite normal

----------


## erniec

My 40 series is the same.
I push it out and start outside.

----------


## gimp

Installed an ARB winchbar today and removed the factory PTO winch and front bumper. Looks good. Need to find an electric winch. The ARB bar came with extremely crap equipment for splicing the inbuilt indicators into the existing harness, and also 12v bulbs which have blown already (24v truck hah). Still need to remove the actual PTO unit from the transfer case too, but am putting this off as I suspect it will be messy

----------


## gimp

Quality P.O. electrical work:

----------


## MassiveAttack

Personally I wouldn't remove the pto, they are great.  Will it fit inside the ARB?

----------


## Ryan

I like the how the skyline is virtually level with the tops of the doors in the first pics. Have always liked the Land Cruisers, we had (my dad)  had a 1980 J40 which I think had a 4L I6? It was definitely diesel and I loved it. It was white in colour.

----------


## Nibblet

I'm with massive attack, I far prefer pto winch.

----------


## veitnamcam

I would rebuild the pto myself ...tho it would probably fetch elec winch money in need of a rebuild condition on retardme

Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk

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## ROKTOY

I'd have to agree with the boys, If the PTO winch runs fine keep it. far less to go wrong if you look after it.

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## gimp

It doesn't really run fine, the shaft spines/unis are stuffed. It doesn't fit any bullbars without $$ modifications and a winch for me is an emergency luxury so I don't use it heavily

----------


## MSL

I'd just take it off and fit an electric.  You can always rebuild it and refit it

----------


## gimp

Plan is to fit an electric, and hope to never need to use it...

----------


## ROKTOY

Only downside to having an electric winch sitting on the front exposed to the elements, not being used, is it still needs to be serviced. Moisture from river crossings, rain etc. can still get in.
If you are going down the road of 'in an emergency', have you considered a Tirfor style winch? man powered, it can be thrown in the back of the 4WD out of the way, out of sight of those with light fingers. Plus side is you can use it in any direction from your 4Wd as long as you have somewhere solid to attach it to. Use it on a mates truck, use it to lift that big red deer into a tree for butchering....
Downside is it is man powered, so take a mate.
Tirfor Hand Winch & Snig Chain | Trade Me
TIRFOR hand winch. | Trade Me

Another option is a Hi Lift jack and a winch chain kit. 
4WDbits 5 Meter Hand Winch Kit - Complete - with 60 inch Hi-Lift Jack

----------


## Sideshow

gimp looks like that Hi-Lift jack might come in handy.
That looks a lot cheaper than a winch!!

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## gimp

Yeah that's half why I keep the hi lift jack on the truck all the time - emergency backup winch...

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## Nibblet

Those tifor winches work but god they take ages to get anywhere, took me and a mate 6hours to get out of trouble using one. Only needed to travel about 250m max.

Electric winch will see ya right, and with wireless remote can be handy for one man operation. Winches are good for hanging deer, hanging tarps for teepee shelters, pulling out trees, pulling out cows from bogs etc. Come in handy quite a bit.

----------


## MSL

> Those tifor winches work but god they take ages to get anywhere, took me and a mate 6hours to get out of trouble using one. Only needed to travel about 250m max.
> 
> Electric winch will see ya right, and with wireless remote can be handy for one man operation. Winches are good for hanging deer, hanging tarps for teepee shelters, pulling out trees, pulling out cows from bogs etc. Come in handy quite a bit.


I use mine to pull trees, cows out of swamps, bales of silage off trailer, and most recently a car out of a drain on the way to the Toby shoot.

----------


## Gibo

> I use mine to pull trees, cows out of swamps, bales of silage off trailer, and most recently a car out of a drain on the way to the Toby shoot.


I enjoyed that story around the bonfire  :Thumbsup:

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## gimp

Desert Duellers are surprisingly good in the mud

----------


## Wildman

Most new tyres are though

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## gimp

True enough. They're not a new design though, been around for decades. Just new condition.

----------


## veitnamcam

Wheres the mud?

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## gimp

[not pictured]

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## veitnamcam

> [not pictured]


Needs citation.

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## Tahr

> Desert Duellers are surprisingly good in the mud


Great pic.

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## madjon_

> [not pictured]


A represntable sample :Sick:

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## Smiddy

> Desert Duellers are surprisingly good in the mud


How many deer did you get up there 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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## gimp

> How many deer did you get up there 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


None, just went for a drive in the rain


Did the valve clearances today. Easy enough. Were mostly correct with a couple fractionally over and a couple fractionally under spec. Replaced the valve cover gasket since it was split in a few spots. Still blows black smoke under load, I guess I need to get my injectors or IP timing looked at

Inside valve cover, Toyoda and Daihatsu logos. Must've used the 3B in some Daihatsus? 


Valves'n'whatnot



at least I now have a cleaned and degreased valve cover

----------


## veitnamcam

> None, just went for a drive in the rain
> 
> 
> Did the valve clearances today. Easy enough. Were mostly correct with a couple fractionally over and a couple fractionally under spec. Replaced the valve cover gasket since it was split in a few spots. Still blows black smoke under load, I guess I need to get my injectors or IP timing looked at
> 
> Inside valve cover, Toyoda and Daihatsu logos. Must've used the 3B in some Daihatsus? 
> 
> 
> Valves'n'whatnot
> ...


Has it always smoked or just started doing it?

Black smoke is poorly combusted fuel due to either poor atomisation or simply not enough oxygen in the chamber.

How bad is the smoke? It is an old school manual injection diesel and it should smoke lightly under full power,clouds of black smoke so thick people behind you cant see or breathe is another matter tho.

Bad smoking could be caused by restricted intake, worn/damaged injector nozzles or incorrect crack off pressures or if it has been like it since you got it?if so then most likely someone has adjusted max fuel for more power.

Its coming into summer and the air is less dense as it warms up, it makes a noticeable difference in power/smoke on old N/A diesels

Not knowing previous history I would.
Check/clean/replace air filter as required.
Go to a bigger pipe between those silicon fittings in the intake just in case that is restricting it.
Replace fuel filter (you did that already?)
Pull the injectors and get them serviced.
Check/clean gauze filter in pump if so fitted.

Then when everything has been serviced and is as it should be clime a hill where it is working hard at highish revs in 3rd, on a sunny day there should be just a slight haze behind you, clouds of heavy black smoke is bad if you still have this adjust max fuel down....your Idle speed will drop if lessening fuel and raise if increasing fuel....1/8th turn should be noticable 1/4 turn is heaps.

----------


## gimp

> Has it always smoked or just started doing it?
> 
> Black smoke is poorly combusted fuel due to either poor atomisation or simply not enough oxygen in the chamber.
> 
> How bad is the smoke? It is an old school manual injection diesel and it should smoke lightly under full power,clouds of black smoke so thick people behind you cant see or breathe is another matter tho.
> 
> Bad smoking could be caused by restricted intake, worn/damaged injector nozzles or incorrect crack off pressures or if it has been like it since you got it?if so then most likely someone has adjusted max fuel for more power.
> 
> Its coming into summer and the air is less dense as it warms up, it makes a noticeable difference in power/smoke on old N/A diesels
> ...


I never noticed it smoking until I had the IP seal done, since then it's pretty bad - in both warm and cold weather. 

I've changed fuel and air filters, and to check if it was due to restriction with the silicon intake hosing I pulled the intake piping and ran it with just an open throttle body, same result. 

Valve clearances were the only other thing I could think of to check myself before taking it to someone to look at the injectors. I did notice that the idle is higher since the seal was done, so possibly the fuel was turned up? I'm getting noticeably worse economy than previously too

----------


## veitnamcam

> I never noticed it smoking until I had the IP seal done, since then it's pretty bad - in both warm and cold weather. I've changed fuel and air filters, and to check if it was due to restriction with the silicon intake hosing I pulled the intake piping and ran it with just an open throttle body, same result. Valve clearances were the only other thing I could think of to check myself before taking it to someone to look at the injectors. I did notice that the idle is higher since the seal was done, so possibly the fuel was turned up? I'm getting noticeably worse economy than previously too


It was probably turned up to compensate for sucking air threw the seal, back it off a tiny tiny bit at a time until you just get a light haze.

----------


## gimp

Hey what do you know, playing with the fuel screw seems to have fixed it mostly. I guess Miles Toyota turned it up to compensate for the rough idle from the leaking fuel filter primer when I had the IP leak fixed. It still had the factory wire seal on the adjustment screw so I figured it hadn't been touched but backing off a quarter turn significantly reduced smoke with no difference in drivability

----------


## 7mmsaum

That's good gimp,

Now you can tune your throttle feel/power/fuel economy to your own liking.

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## Sideshow

Don't you just hate that you think your doing the old girl a favour and she consumes more  :X X:

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## Martin358

> Don't you just hate that you think your doing the old girl a favour and she consumes more


Ha sounds like my wife.

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## Sideshow

> Ha sounds like my wife.


Brave man there  :ORLY:

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## gimp

my fuel economy seems to be back to normal with no noticeable smoke under load now.

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## gimp

I went for a drive yesterday, to try shoot a deer. Couldn't walk very far past where I drove to as the river was extremely flooded. Saw an 8 point stag. Didn't shoot it. Noticed a bit of a clunk in the suspension though on the way home.



Oh I guess that's not meant to look like that



Who needs sway bars anyway?



Also got around to pulling off the PTO drive. Before:



Hey I can see inside my transfer case (and it looks like it's about 1.5 litres low on oil, whoops)




After. Shiny. Better not leak. Probably need to get some RTV on the gasket at some point


The problem with removing the PTO drive was that I had a massive gaping hole in my transmission tunnel afterwards


So I got stuck into some CAD. Only scrap sheetmetal I had lying around was a fucked front panel from the Corolla. Perfect, it's supposed to be automotive parts and it's even Toyota OEM


A squirt of primer, some precisely drilled holes and a bit of vacuum tube as a seal later, almost looks good enough to be hidden under the carpet forever



Anyone want to buy a lightly used PTO winch setup? It works

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## gimp

Since this is a hunting forum, here is the 8 point stag

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## gimp

speaking of Corolla panels, I put it back together too

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## Tahr

> speaking of Corolla panels, I put it back together too


Ominous signs. A family car.

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## gimp

> Ominous signs. A family car.


2 door, and I ripped out the back seats...

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## Wildman

> 2 door, and I ripped out the back seats...


That's to fit the dog in eh...

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## jakewire

> That's to fit the dog in eh...


And still room for the bassinet

----------


## 308



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## gimp

Jesus man that ain't a minivan


in other news the cruiser appears to have improved articulation since I dumped the sway bar and handles much the same on the road (like a boat)

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## Martin358

> I went for a drive yesterday, to try shoot a deer. Couldn't walk very far past where I drove to as the river was extremely flooded. Saw an 8 point stag. Didn't shoot it. Noticed a bit of a clunk in the suspension though on the way home.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I guess that's not meant to look like that
> 
> 
> 
> Who needs sway bars anyway?
> ...


I just bought a mint 70 series, how much for the winch setup

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## gimp

Would let it go for 650. Prefer pickup, it's massive and shipping would be a nightmare - where in the country are you?

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## gimp

"apparently" it's "illegal" to remove your sway bar. balls. anyone got a single bracket floating around

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## veitnamcam

> "apparently" it's "illegal" to remove your sway bar. balls. anyone got a single bracket floating around


Dont tell the 1000s of others who took them out and threw them away.
I even did it to my 2wd moutain biking ute....amazing where that could climb.

Sent from my SM-G388F using Tapatalk

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## gimp

Failed WOF on no sway bar, windscreen crack (bottom left), vertical play in tie rod ends

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## gimp

Sway bar is going on for WOF then off again til next WOF. Or until I get cert for none

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## Martin358

Carterton, but thats a bit much at the moment, 
thanks

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## gimp

Got a new windscreen last week and ordered sway bar bits and whatnot. Chucked the sway bar back on tonight with shiny new links and brackets (which will remain shiny in my garage, not attached to anything for the next 6 months) and did the tie rod and relay rod ends. I'm not convinced there was anything wrong with the tie rod ends but the WOF sheet says "Excessive play" so may as well replace them, and the relay rod ends also because a) it's unclear whether the mechanic would differentiate between the tie rod and relay rod and b) the first tie rod end kit I found came with both. Need an alignment probably but WOF'd again





Anti-seize EVERYTHING




My gearbox (like presumably all H55Fs) has a leak between the transfer case and the gearbox where all the oil migrates from one to the other then starts leaking out. I bought a hose that connects the filler bungs of both to allow the oil levels to even out between them. It's maybe a bit long. I'm not sure how well it will work with the way I've had to route it.

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## ROKTOY

The hose needs to remain lower than the oil level for the oil to move between the gearbox and transfer case. Do both run the same grade oil?
My land cruiser is auto so I am unsure

It is pretty straight forward to drop the transfer case off the box and replace the seals.

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## gimp

> The hose needs to remain lower than the oil level for te oil to move between the gearbox and transfer case. Do both run the same grade oil?


Yeah I'm going to run it lower when I put the bash plate back on under there. It's super long and would be fuck near dragging on the road if I routed it under the box without the bash plate. Both run 80/90

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## Timmay

Gimp just remove one side of the sway Bar Bolt. The whole assembly doesnt have to be completely removed for it to work as if it isn't there. Just the one Bolt (your second pic)

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## Smiddy

> Yeah I'm going to run it lower when I put the bash plate back on under there. It's super long and would be fuck near dragging on the road if I routed it under the box without the bash plate. Both run 80/90


How is that hose connected to the fittings?
Can you cut it to the right size and reconnect them? Or take it into someone like hose and hydraulics in greymouth and get Evan to make you one the right size 


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## veitnamcam

> How is that hose connected to the fittings?
> Can you cut it to the right size and reconnect them? Or take it into someone like hose and hydraulics in greymouth and get Evan to make you one the right size 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


looks like a push lock barb, should be able to cut off carefully trim to length and push back on.

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## gimp

It turns out it's just a push in barb fitting with no locking at all, shortened it.



Also tested the flex with the sway bar attached and it's still able to get up on my half metre high front porch without lifting any wheels



Probably good enough but it's come off anyway, it's annoying breaking the brackets & makes zero difference on the road.

Hope to give it a good workout on the east coast next week now

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## 223nut

That transfer box is looking to shiny, needs a nice layer of mud over your new hose as well!

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## gimp

Today is 1 year since I bought a Landcruiser! Drove to the East Coast a couple of days ago to go hunting but the river decided to rise rapidly (after I checked the levels at home) and stayed too high to cross safely, so I came home after shooting some rabbits in the riverbed. Back to about 10.6L/100km now for highway driving since adjusting the fuel.



boooo








Truck went great for as far up the river as I could go.

Noticed on the highway that the temp gauge was getting quite high when uphill or into strong headwinds, have never really noticed much movement in it previously - perhaps the ARB bar blocks the airflow? Was hot weather also. Anyway decided to pull out the air conditioning condenser since the aircon doesn't work and I don't really want it, and the condenser blocks some airflow to the radiator. Pulled the whole lot out including idle up VSV, compressor, etc - just the stuff under the dash remains. 



Found a leak in the radiator core. There's also the beginnings of a weep around the bottom hose barb thing so I guess either repairs or a new radiator are in my future.




So much extra space in the engine bay!

Have noticed I need new shocks and have a leak from my power steering box to fix.

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## madjon_

Good hose down should get rid of the cobwebs,all that crap won't be doing the cooling any favours.

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## gimp

Yeah that's on the to-do list

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## Sideshow

Used to blow my rads out with the air compressor in Namibia once a day! As you would end up with a lot of insect life and dust etc, works really well and helps in keeping the air flowing. Just do it from the back ah, then your not pushing any seed etc into the rad. Keep some matches in your glove box just incase it springs a leak when your in the back country and egg can also save your bacon.

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## Nibblet

What's the story with the matches?

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## Gibo

> What's the story with the matches?


So you can set fire to it and cook some eggs on the bonnet  :Grin:

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## Nibblet

> So you can set fire to it and cook some eggs on the bonnet


Is that the best resort when the gear box goes pop?

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## Gibo

> Is that the best resort when the gear box goes pop?


Yes but I've never been one to do the best thing  :Grin:

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## Sideshow

> What's the story with the matches?


If you have a pin hole leak you can put a match stick in and it will swell and block off the leak. Have used this on quite large holes to get me out of trouble especially in desert environments  :O O:  seems to be a shortage of water there for some reason?
You need to be careful placing bigger bits in as they will tear the rad a bigger hole :O O:

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## gimp

Ugh



Ryco filters have cool boxes at the moment



New sender in ($109 overnight from Toyota NZ, ugh) after a trip to Repco and being sold the wrong one



and we're away

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## veitnamcam

Ahh the joys of older trucks......looks like the speedo has been wound back a time or two too  :Wink:

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## gimp

Legitimate joys of an old vehicle: I could fix it myself with 50 bucks in parts if I didn't want it overnight, with a 14mm spanner, rather than a check engine light -> expensive trip to the dealer -> another expensive trip to the dealer when they read the ambiguous OBDII code and replaced the wrong parts the first time. 

Yeah definitely has been wound back.

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## gadgetman

> Ugh
> 
> 
> 
> Ryco filters have cool boxes at the moment
> 
> 
> 
> New sender in ($109 overnight from Toyota NZ, ugh) after a trip to Repco and being sold the wrong one
> ...


Something is seriously wrong with that wagon @gimp. All the ancillaries must have fallen off the engine, I can see the ground from the top.

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## veitnamcam

> Legitimate joys of an old vehicle: I could fix it myself with 50 bucks in parts if I didn't want it overnight, with a 14mm spanner, rather than a check engine light -> expensive trip to the dealer -> another expensive trip to the dealer when they read the ambiguous OBDII code and replaced the wrong parts the first time. 
> 
> Yeah definitely has been wound back.


Yep my take on it is you either have to get "old" like yours so you can fix it yourself or "new or in warranty" so when SHTF someone else is paying.
The market is a bit slow to catch on but mark my words watch the resale of the modern diesels plummet as people get caught with massive maintenance bills.
Already the last of the "bugger" hiluxes are worth more than the first of the "sheep shagger"...this trend will continue throughout the brands and models.

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## gadgetman

> Yep my take on it is you either have to get "old" like yours so you can fix it yourself or "new or in warranty" so when SHTF someone else is paying.
> The market is a bit slow to catch on but mark my words watch the resale of the modern diesels plummet as people get caught with massive maintenance bills.
> Already the last of the "bugger" hiluxes are worth more than the first of the "sheep shagger"...this trend will continue throughout the brands and models.


The difficulty with a lot of the older models is they are getting scarce. If you do get one someone else often wants to steal it.  :Pissed Off: 

I went newer than I really wanted just so I could get something.

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## andyanimal31

bloody hell my 1988 d/c 4wd will be worth a fortune soon? 

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

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## veitnamcam

> bloody hell my 1988 d/c 4wd will be worth a fortune soon? 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk


Already is.

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## gimp

> Yep my take on it is you either have to get "old" like yours so you can fix it yourself or "new or in warranty" so when SHTF someone else is paying.
> The market is a bit slow to catch on but mark my words watch the resale of the modern diesels plummet as people get caught with massive maintenance bills.
> Already the last of the "bugger" hiluxes are worth more than the first of the "sheep shagger"...this trend will continue throughout the brands and models.


Considered hocking everything I own to get a VDJ76. Realised potential maintenance costs if the injectors or pump went would then bankrupt me

----------


## gimp

I got all my lock cylinders and ignition cylinder changed since the keys would fall out taking mild left turns with the originals. 

Put a new radiator in today since the old one had some holes in it.

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## StrikerNZ

> I got all my lock cylinders and ignition cylinder changed since the keys would fall out taking mild left turns with the originals.


That wasn't just a worn key? My safari the key could be taken out about one click earlier on the ignition than you really wanted it to, took it to allied and they were able to track down the 'new' keycode for it and make a couple of fresh keys (rather than copying the worn one) that made the locks etc feel good as new.

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## gimp

worn key and cylinders. took it to the local locksmith.

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## gimp

Today I have the flu and instead of doing anything major I replaced a bunch of little internal parts to get rid of some rattles.


The hinge pins for the front seats have a little plastic bushing around them that gets flogged out and the seat rattles. Pretty straightforward to change and $1.44 apiece



The drivers door had an annoying rattle/squeak on bumpy roads or 4wding, I figured it was probably the fairly-worn door striker



So swapped that out with a new one - I realised afterwards that I could have just reversed the old one - will hang onto it for when the door starts squeaking again in 20 years



The rear doors have always had annoying rattles, one possible cause was this missing rubber stopper


replaced with a shiny new one


The top striker of the right rear door has a big groove worn in it


but the replacement part I bought has too much weird angle to it?? going to have to live with that one as-is for now


Also replaced the bottom striker for the right rear door


And reversed the striker for the left rear door - I have a spare one also but may as well wear out the old one. All this seems to have cut down the rattles/squeaks quite a lot driving around town but it'll probably be more noticeable once I get onto a gravel road somewhere

For ages I've had to use my key to open the diesel filler door, the cable pull inside didn't work.  Fixed it with a cute little spring

----------


## gimp

Also I changed my front shocks in a Repco carpark in April and backed into my fence post the other day, further damaging a quarter panel that was already damaged and bogged over. Tracking down a new piece of sheetmetal to replace the whole panel since it's rusty under the old bog

----------


## 223nut

@gimp where did ya get the door strikers from? Had to re do hinges on my 80series and everything could do with replacing

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## longrange308

Going by the bags,Toyota

----------


## gimp

Partsouq

----------


## ROKTOY

> Partsouq


Good site for Toyota parts. good pricing on some near unobtainable parts sometimes.

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## 223nut

Cheers, have the 1/3 rear barn door 80series hens teeth but a bloody good system

----------


## gimp

It made a massive difference, no rattles at all now on the highway. Probably should have replaced the star washers cos a trip to Greymouth and back loosened some of the screws up a fraction. Just need to do something about my grumbling gearbox bearings now. And get a turbo to cut down the exhaust drone a bit.

----------


## Timmay

Does your wagon have suspension lift in it? If so being a mwb/swb you might just need to fit a gear box spacer to remove the rumble. I did that I my GQ shorty, it sorted it nicely.

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## gimp

Nah it's stock height. Pretty sure it's worn bearings but shit I'm no expert

----------


## gimp

Had a look at my wheel bearing today after work. 


Hub full of water, nice. Still plenty of grease in there though.



Whoever was last in the hub obviously didn't have a big socket and tightened/loosened the locking nuts with a punch. The bearing kit I have doesn't have replacement locking nuts, and I would prefer to replace them rather than re-use the mutilated ones. So I just snugged it up a bit to take the play out and put it all back together. The other thing is that on the 73 series the calliper has a hardline, so it has to be removed to pull the hub off, rather than just unbolted and moved out of the way. So will wait for more parts to do the job properly and avoid having to bleed the brakes twice.



The fun part of re-assembly



Also replaced my broken taillight, breaking a bulb in the process, finding a 24v taillight bulb is a bastard in a small town sometimes. I bought the last one.

----------


## gadgetman

I went to a local garage and they gave me a few of the locking nuts. Had to drill out and split the old ones off they were that tight. With a strong arm bar and 1m pipe extension I still couldn't budge the nut. When I put the jack under the end of the pipe it just lifted the front of the vehicle off the stands.

I'll have a hunt around for some bulbs. Had a heap of spares for the Safari and trailers. Then switched the trailers back to 12V before going LED.

----------


## HILLBILLYHUNTERS

Do you have diff breather on front diff , re water in hub .

----------


## gimp

> Do you have diff breather on front diff , re water in hub .


Yes but it only runs as high as the chassis rail, extending those is on my "to-do" list, but my "to-do" list is approx 1 mile long and is mostly going to be done next winter once I get a decent garage built to work in.

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## gimp

> I went to a local garage and they gave me a few of the locking nuts. Had to drill out and split the old ones off they were that tight. With a strong arm bar and 1m pipe extension I still couldn't budge the nut. When I put the jack under the end of the pipe it just lifted the front of the vehicle off the stands.
> 
> I'll have a hunt around for some bulbs. Had a heap of spares for the Safari and trailers. Then switched the trailers back to 12V before going LED.



Cheers - I'm going to stop being lazy and get a big stock of small spares in so I don't have annoying problems like "no 24v bulbs in stock in Hokitika"

----------


## StrikerNZ

> Cheers - I'm going to stop being lazy and get a big stock of small spares in so I don't have annoying problems like "no 24v bulbs in stock in Hokitika"


For the interior dome light etc, you can get 24v LED replacement bulbs from Aliex. I brought a handful in for my safari, had to search around a bit for actual 24v ones, but got some in the end that were great, heaps brighter than stock..

----------


## gimp

> For the interior dome light etc, you can get 24v LED replacement bulbs from Aliex. I brought a handful in for my safari, had to search around a bit for actual 24v ones, but got some in the end that were great, heaps brighter than stock..


I replaced my dome light with an aftermarket LED assembly right when I first got the truck, it's fuckin awesome - difference literally like day and night

----------


## 223nut

> I replaced my dome light with an aftermarket LED assembly right when I first got the truck, it's fuckin awesome - difference literally like day and night


Really need to get onto this one... Decided I don't do enough playing for different breathers / can't see arsed

----------


## gadgetman

> Cheers - I'm going to stop being lazy and get a big stock of small spares in so I don't have annoying problems like "no 24v bulbs in stock in Hokitika"


It was hard enough getting some of them here.

----------


## 223nut

@gimp I'm hi jacking your thread!

80series vx, been doing a bit of low range work lately and it smokes like a bastard (grey, light blue) and smells a bit but only when in low, in particular when engine braking. Normal or should I check oil levels in everything? Looks Iike I might be heading away and getting a bit of snow next week... Checking to make sure others haven't had the same and had their truck crap out.

Another topic, tyre pressures in snow? Got mud tyres on at the moment, thinking leave the, had to break hough snow to the gravel underneath rather than let them,  down so I float and slide around

----------


## ROKTOY

> @gimp I'm hi jacking your thread!
> 
> 80series vx, been doing a bit of low range work lately and it smokes like a bastard (grey, light blue) and smells a bit but only when in low, in particular when engine braking. Normal or should I check oil levels in everything? Looks Iike I might be heading away and getting a bit of snow next week... Checking to make sure others haven't had the same and had their truck crap out.


How long since you did an oil change? What grade of oil are you running?

----------


## 223nut

> How long since you did an oil change? What grade of oil are you running?


15w 40 engine, went in for transmission service last year / 2000km? Ago

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## Sideshow

Whoever was last in the hub obviously didn't have a big socket and tightened/loosened the locking nuts with a punch. 



[/QUOTE]

Looks like they butchered that with a coal chisel than a punch :X X:  I've had to do the same when in a sticky spot :Oh Noes:  gets you going again though, if you don't have the right tool for the job.
It's coming along though :Thumbsup:  you get a bit of satisfaction in tinkering with old trucks.

When you replace the old one take it out and use it for a gong  :Grin:

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## Savage1

> @gimp I'm hi jacking your thread!
> 
> 80series vx, been doing a bit of low range work lately and it smokes like a bastard (grey, light blue) and smells a bit but only when in low, in particular when engine braking. Normal or should I check oil levels in everything? Looks Iike I might be heading away and getting a bit of snow next week... Checking to make sure others haven't had the same and had their truck crap out.
> 
> Another topic, tyre pressures in snow? Got mud tyres on at the moment, thinking leave the, had to break hough snow to the gravel underneath rather than let them,  down so I float and slide around


I'm no expert, but sounds like worn rings, sucks in the oil when engine braking and when you put your foot down again it blows out a cloud of smoke for a few seconds?

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## 223nut

> I'm no expert, but sounds like worn rings, sucks in the oil when engine braking and when you put your foot down again it blows out a cloud of smoke for a few seconds?


Only happens when in low range, bit of grey steamy smoke when cold. Smokes when engine braking, with foot down it seems to be a little better

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## Savage1

I doubt it would be related to what gear range it's in, are you sure that you just don't notice it in high range? Give it a try down a long hill. 

Smoking during or straight after engine braking is a sign of worn rings, I think.

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## 223nut

> I doubt it would be related to what gear range it's in, are you sure that you just don't notice it in high range? Give it a try down a long hill. 
> 
> Smoking during or straight after engine braking is a sign of worn rings, I think.


It is possible I don't notice it. Had the head replaced 2years ago and think thy changed the top rings while it was in bits. Not tooooo worried about it it's a Toyota with no rust so as long as I keep giving it oil it should go(

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## gimp

So I failed WOF on the loose/noisy wheel bearings in the RF and also a headlight bulb. Bulb was easy and did the wheel bearings tonight in the driveway. Minor hiccup getting the locking hub back together, fiddly bastard of a thing, all done now though. 

Shiny new bits



Old bearing race, I dunno if this wear is bad or not? But replaced the bearings anyway because I had some.

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## gimp

Need to bleed the brakes better though

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## gimp

Bled my brakes. Grot

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## 223nut

Yuck, hate to think what mine look like though...

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## jakewire

That looks like that Waikato stuff.
Bottle it and send it to the North country.

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## gimp

> @gimp I'm hi jacking your thread!
> 
> 80series vx, been doing a bit of low range work lately and it smokes like a bastard (grey, light blue) and smells a bit but only when in low, in particular when engine braking. Normal or should I check oil levels in everything? Looks Iike I might be heading away and getting a bit of snow next week... Checking to make sure others haven't had the same and had their truck crap out.
> 
> Another topic, tyre pressures in snow? Got mud tyres on at the moment, thinking leave the, had to break hough snow to the gravel underneath rather than let them,  down so I float and slide around


I am having the same thing, blue/grey smoke quite noticeable when in low range, less noticeable or not present on the highway (probably just can't see it). Gonna change my oil and filter and check the valve clearances and then prepare my wallet if that doesn't help. It's been about 5500km since last change so I'll do that tomorrow and hope it does the trick

Smashed up to the Growler for the weekend with no dramas. Easy track, mint weather.

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## 223nut

> I am having the same thing, blue/grey smoke quite noticeable when in low range, less noticeable or not present on the highway (probably just can't see it). Gonna change my oil and filter and check the valve clearances and then prepare my wallet if that doesn't help.


Suspect my old girl needs new oil. Sat for 6months with out being used and then being worked hard

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## gimp

Yeah I didn't realise how many k's I'd done since the last change in like Feb but a couple of trips to Marlborough, Queenstown and Canterbury adds up to 5000 pretty quick

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## 223nut

> Yeah I didn't realise how many k's I'd done since the last change in like Feb but a couple of trips to Marlborough, Queenstown and Canterbury adds up to 5000 pretty quick


Yeah and the ruc adds up just as quick  :XD:

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## gimp

get bigger tyres, then your odometer will read low!

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## Timmay

If you can, change to the GU patrol style wheel bearing lock nuts for your wheel hubs.

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## gimp

What's the difference?

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## Chop3r

In thoery you should be redoing the brake fluid every 12 months.

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## Timmay

> What's the difference?


Far superior in its ability to hold its torque setting (zero chance of coming lose)  the middle ring fixes to the left ring with small screws. You still need to repack with grease at normal intervals.

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## 223nut

> In thoery you should be redoing the brake fluid every 12 months.


seriously?!! wow guess i'd better get some more when i go to town. i hate bleeding bloody brakes

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## Mathias

> seriously?!! wow guess i'd better get some more when i go to town. i hate bleeding bloody brakes


Get one of the 1 man bleeding kits from Super Cheap. They have a valve on the bleeder hose so you don't suck any air back.

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## gimp

> In thoery you should be redoing the brake fluid every 12 months.


In theory it's probably wise, I doubt 1 person in 100 does though.

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## Chop3r

That would be true Gimp

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## gimp

I was planning on buying a new double garage but I'm really restricted with what I can do by local building regs and the layout of my section, and the options I was looking at are all a bit expensive at the moment. Solution: clean out and modify existing single garage. The door is stuffed anyway, and is the limiting factor in fitting the truck in, so it's going to go.

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## gimp

So the Cruiser has this going on: leaking around the windscreen and ~*rust*~. Rained 129mm in 24 hours before this photo.



So I wanted to put it in my shitty small single garage because it turns out I cannot afford a decent sized new one.



Of course it did not fit into my shitty small single garage. The limiting factor was the height of the door/frame (also furniture)



Some crowbar and sledgehammer work later





And a visit to the local hardware store for timber and hinges, then knocked up a set of these



And hung them



And now it fits. Fucking just. Out of the rain though!! But no room to reasonably work on anything.



Also I got some replacement windscreen hinge covers from a junked BJ74. New production ones don't fit, they're too wide

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## Wildman

How do you get into it in that shed? 

Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk

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## 223nut

And here was me thinking you could just let your tyres down.....

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## trooper90

How do you get in and out of truck?

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## gimp

> How do you get into it in that shed? 
> 
> Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk


Carefully

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## gadgetman

We chewed out a bit more space above the door and raised it up a bit. Then riveted some ali angle on the bottom of the door to fill the gap. Made the door a bit more rigid as a bonus. Now have even taller vehicles yet again so they don't fit in any longer. Doors like yours, as bi-fold or tri-fold, running in tracks would be even better.

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## gimp

I didn't like the tilt door as it restricted overhead access when open and prevented having any lighting in that 1/3 of the garage

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## gadgetman

> I didn't like the tilt door as it restricted overhead access when open and prevented having any lighting in that 1/3 of the garage


I agree. They are a pain in the proverbial. I need to cover a 4.3m gap.

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## JoshC

Never understood why people build pokey arsed garages like that eh. There was one at our house when we bought it. Accidentally backed over it with the tractor.

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## rambo rem700

Mines the same size. Pain on the ass ay

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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## longrange308

I'm still shocked that ply is available on the coast  :O O:

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## veitnamcam

> Never understood why people build pokey arsed garages like that eh. There was one at our house when we bought it. Accidentally backed over it with the tractor.


Minis Morries Austins and Standards were not that big back in the day when most of em were built.

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## gadgetman

> I'm still shocked that ply is available on the coast


Well IPL at Gladstone make enough of it.

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## gimp

Did some further re-arranging. Now it's usable (I can sit on my garage couch and access tools) and I can park inside. Still tight. Other plans incoming

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## Wildman

Have you got a beer fridge yet? 

Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk

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## gimp

> Have you got a beer fridge yet? 
> 
> Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk


The venison and beer fridge in the laundry does the job

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## Wildman

That is quite a long way to go to get a beer,  maybe 20 or 30 metres.. 


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## gimp

> That is quite a long way to go to get a beer,  maybe 20 or 30 metres.. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk


Guaranteed to slow any project down by several minutes

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## Sideshow

Why don't you cut another door where your truck door lines up with the wall once your packed in the garage  :Thumbsup:

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## gimp

This is another only semi-car-related post. 

I built a lean-to along the side of the garage last weekend, to put bikes/kayaks/firewood etc under. I got a heap of free aluminium cladding off a friend that reroofed his house so it cost next to nothing to put together.





Then this week/weekend I built a garden shed with the leftover sheets - 1.2x2.7m to fit in a space around the back of my house on the shady side. 

Floor in action


Starting cladding


Finished (ish - I need to get some kind of flashing on the corners but it's raining today and it's too much effort)


And now I have much more space in the garage! (That kayak is going out under the lean-to when it stops raining and the other stuff in front of the couch is also only temporarily there)


Feels good to have more garage space, and to be making use of bits of the section I wasn't using before that were pretty much just growing weeds. I can get the Cruiser right into the garage easily now with a bit of space on each side, so I have space to do some work at least. So, stay tuned on that front..

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## R93

You been busy since i seen ya the other day.
Yup miserable day today. Was gunna shoot the service match this arvo but way too cold and wet for me😆

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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## gimp

> You been busy since i seen ya the other day.
> Yup miserable day today. Was gunna shoot the service match this arvo but way too cold and wet for me
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


Yeah it's fuckin miserable, thought about going up but no

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## Wirehunt

I thought you'd just tie the kayak to the front door...

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## Sideshow

I'd get some more lights in there gimp. You should be able to wire in a few new leds onto those joists, will brighten the whole place up.
Much better to work in as well. Looks good though. Have you thought about building a small eve on the front over the door to stop the water ruining your ply doors?

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## gimp

More/better lights and a carport are on the cards.

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## gimp

I was having some starting issues, it would run rough on startup and blow a shitload of white smoke, first step was change the glow plugs, 4x new plugs later and it seems to fire up nicely first crank and idle smoothly. Good.

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## Sideshow

Had the same with my L200 Gimp but I ended up changing them again eight months down the track as the first lot failed  :Sad: 
Brought top of the line and have not looked back. They have been in for two winters now.

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## gimp

I put in Tridon brand plugs. Not sure what the previous ones were but I think 2 of them were stuffed inside 40000 km ish

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## Sideshow

Year the old buy once cry once.
There's quite a few sites that talk about this. The first I brought where £6.00 each the next £15.60 each :Zomg:

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## Sideshow

Mine went from 5 to 8 turns to 1 to 2.
That's what I need for an emergency call out!

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## gimp

> on my old l200 I had to wait till I heard a clunk noise from in the engine bay before cranking the engine made a massive difference for starting and glow plugs didn't crap out not sure what the noise was just started way better less cranking when cold.


That'd be your glow relay clicking off, if you don't wait for that then the plugs might not be fully hot

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## Smiddy

where have you been getting your genuine toyota parts from? looking for a sender thats discontinued

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## ROKTOY

> where have you been getting your genuine toyota parts from? looking for a sender thats discontinued


https://partsouq.com/

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## superdiver

Hey team selling my 70 series cruiser.
If you are interested look at the buy sell forum

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## gimp

My drivers door handle had some broken/rusted Springs so I bought a new $14 Chinese handle



And installed it and over tightened the bolts a bit



And fixed my door lock thingy that kept popping off, in the obvious fashion


And made some engine bay splash guards from 4mm rubber since I had none

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## gimp

Got my injectors rebuilt. Averaged 10.3L per 100km over 1400km around the sounds last week so pretty happy with that.

Noticed a bit of a clunk in the front end though. Jacked it up and pulled a wheel off today and found it's the kingpin bearings. I don't want to know what the passenger side ones look like.. that can wait for another day, what a messy shit of a job.



Lower bearing race


upper bearing race

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## MSL

Better economy than my 14 hilux

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## R93

> Better economy than my 14 hilux


Yeah that pretty good for that old tank. 

If you stuck your mellon out the window wearing that hat I seen you in the other day, the fuel economy won't be as flash

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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## veitnamcam

> Got my injectors rebuilt. Averaged 10.3L per 100km over 1400km around the sounds last week so pretty happy with that.
> 
> Noticed a bit of a clunk in the front end though. Jacked it up and pulled a wheel off today and found it's the kingpin bearings. I don't want to know what the passenger side ones look like.. that can wait for another day, what a messy shit of a job.
> 
> 
> 
> Lower bearing race
> 
> 
> upper bearing race


ah the joys of owning a $wd  :Thumbsup:  ( "4" and "$" are on the same button and I cocked up but then thought no no actually that is correct.)

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## gimp

turns out having diffs full of water is real shit for... everything

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## MSL

> turns out having diffs full of water is real shit for... everything


No extended breathers?

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## gimp

> No extended breathers?


Nah I'm real lazy (it's on my to-do list) (you should see how long my to-do list is)


e: they're extended above the chassis but it's obviously not extended enough, just haven't bothered taking one off yet to find out what diameter of hose I need to buy

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## veitnamcam

> turns out having diffs full of water is real shit for... everything


As MSL said you need extended breathers from your diffs/transfercase and gearbox perferably up high in the cabin.
Kingpins and cvs have nothing to do with water in your diffs tho, there is a oil seal inbetween.
Pack the shit out of the bearings,cv with cv grease,swivel hub full.done properly you wont get  much change out of two tubes of grease.....if it is full of grease there is no room for water.
If everything is packed full on ya outer swivel hub assy and swivel seals are done then with lots of deep water work you should get at least two years before doing it again.

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## gimp

yah the inner axle seal was stuffed, all full of a lovely goop of gear oil, water and grease... filled it right up with grease when I did the wheel bearing but it got a bit diluted... will do the other side when I get a chance and hopefully it's not as bad and I can forget about it for a couple of years. Extending the breathers higher is on the list for whenever I next get 2 weeks off work (along with a heap of other things).

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