# Firearms and Shooting > Firearms, Optics and Accessories >  DPT Suppressor seized up

## ShadyG

A couple of weeks ago, I stripped down my DPT suppressor for cleaning, and when I reassembled it I used white lithium grease on the threads.  Now when I came to strip it down again, I've found that most of the threads have become very stiff, and one set are seized up altogether.  Did I do the right thing using lithium grease, or should I use something else?

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## tetawa

Ask DPT, they are very helpful.

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## Feral

I used moly grease and found similar. I now use CLP oil on the threads. Also, when putting the can away for storage I break the seal on all the sections so a gap shows.

To get any seized sections unstuck I use a hose clamp over the top of a cardboard ring (to protect the baffle exterior). Set one on each of the seized sections, clamp one of the screw bodies into a vice (don't camp the baffle itself in the vice). Then use a hammer to gently tap the other section to break the seize and then you can undo by hand.

Sent from my SM-G980F using Tapatalk

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## Ingrid 51

I use lithium grease after cleaning each disassembled section after EVERY outing. If baffles are stuck, use hose clamps.
1. Wrap stuck section with thin leather or similar to prevent scratching.
2. Put one section in vice, holding by the screw adjustment of clamp.
3. Gently tap, tap tap the other clamps screw adjustment.

I used this method once. It works.

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## Beetroot

Hose clamps are the best way, I don't disassemble mine nearly often enough and always need to use hose clamps.

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## Gibo

I run a full seized one, no worse than when it could come apart  :Grin:

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## StrikerNZ

I just twist each baffle apart a few turns each time I take mine off the rifle to store. Never cleaned or regreased it with anything.

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## Tahr

Can you take them apart??  :Have A Nice Day:  I never have and have had a wonderful run from them (DPT). There are at least 3 other major brands that dont come apart so is it necessary?

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## 223nut

> so is it necessary?


I'm in a similar boat, never take mine apart. Have heard that the carbon builds up on the inside and reduces volume available therefore less effective, must have to put a lot of rounds through to see that happening though. Can see it being an issue with a 22 but not centrefire

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## Ingrid 51

Pretty sure DPT recommends pulling apart and cleaning with crc or similar. I don’t send lots downrange but meticulously clean my ones after use.

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## Friwi

Suppressor maintenance instructions - DPT Machinists

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## mikee

I have one thats done a lot of work over 3k rounds thru it. Wont come apart but still working. Also have a magnum one with over 1100 thru it, wont come apart either. I was going to buy some of the clamps from DPT to take them apart but then I figured whats the point.

My other 2 have done a few hundred each and still come apart easily

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## charliehorse

You guys have given a @Friwi a restless night.  :O O:

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## tikka

I bought a second hand one with a seized stainless baffle on the main blast chamber. I tried pretty hard to get it off and looks like it on there for good. I'm glade its stainless not alloy.The other alloy baffles are fine to undo with anti-seize on the threads. This is my first modular suppressor and really happy with the performance and build quality.

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## flock

Had a stuck one the other day, gave the join a drop of Kroil, tapped it a few times  with rubber hammer handle, let it soak for 10 minutes, came undone by hand.

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## bunji

Allan Carr who l rate up there with gun smiths work l have seen any where in the world,did a lot of my rifle builds & he always said never to use any tape on the threads, only a lithium grease & the internals should be cleaned regularly with a good water/moisture  dispersal spray like WD40 was all thats required ,the reason he said  is suppressors suck in a lot of moisture especially if used with a cover & that moisture in turn soaks up the ammonia in the gun powder.This then acts as means for more corrosive elements to build up over time & around the rifle crown/rifling ,he always recommended a thorough clean after 40 rounds max for a short barrel hunting rifle (he did most of my Bush Pig builds)& the suppressor left off the rifles in storage with good air flow & a coating of WD40. 

The last time l brought a DPT over barrel from memory it came with a sheet warning if tape was used on threads or excessive build up was found it would void any warranty.

While l was guiding in the US one of the clients had a huge gun collection & would have a machine gun shoot on his Ranch twice a month during summer ,guys would turn up with everything imaginable & a lot were suppressed, they all used high temp Locktite anti seize on all threads .

I use to race Dirt Bikes so still have a lot of tools for rebuilds etc & have helped a couple of mates over the years free up stuck baffles which would happen particularly after our regular hunting /diving trips to Stewart Island, where guns would cop salt spray for a couple of weeks in the sand dunes etc & from  travelling around in the big boat & dinghy,always found a small bike oil filter wrench with a wrap of leather worked ,for really stuck ones  put it in a oven to warm up first,always freed them straight up .

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## BSA270

I bought a pair of clamps from DPT. Suggestion from Darren. One clamp on each adjoining baffle and twist in opposite directions. Great tool. Don't need to use  it very often but it's there when I need it. Very important to always remove suppressor when finished shooting and clean carbon from crown and barrel threads.

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## Beetroot

> I'm in a similar boat, never take mine apart. Have heard that the carbon builds up on the inside and reduces volume available therefore less effective, must have to put a lot of rounds through to see that happening though. Can see it being an issue with a 22 but not centrefire


After 500 rounds of CCI SV  i notice mine gets considerably less effective. Also have a noticeable decrease in accuracy and get more fliers in my groups.

For hunting purposes you might never notice but on paper it's pretty apparent.
My ASE rimfire suppressor is exactly the same.

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## jono7

Would nickel anti seize on the threads not work better than a grease with the heat involved?

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## G.I_Joel

I didn’t real all the comments so something similar may have already been said but Take each baffle off, hose it down with wd-40, clean it, let it dry and then just wipe a smidge of Vaseline around each thread, job done.

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## G.I_Joel

> Allan Carr who l rate up there with gun smiths work l have seen any where in the world,did a lot of my rifle builds & he always said never to use any tape on the threads, only a lithium grease & the internals should be cleaned regularly with a good water/moisture  dispersal spray like WD40 was all thats required ,the reason he said  is suppressors suck in a lot of moisture especially if used with a cover & that moisture in turn soaks up the ammonia in the gun powder.This then acts as means for more corrosive elements to build up over time & around the rifle crown/rifling ,he always recommended a thorough clean after 40 rounds max for a short barrel hunting rifle (he did most of my Bush Pig builds)& the suppressor left off the rifles in storage with good air flow & a coating of WD40


Allan put mine on and that’s the advice he gave me - and my comment above

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## canross

> Would nickel anti seize on the threads not work better than a grease with the heat involved?


I was thinking about the same thing... my issue is whether nickel will lead to galvanic corrosion.


https://www.jpcfrance.eu/technical-i...on-resistance/


A pure guess would be on molybdenum or Teflon grease to help reduce binding or galling... would probably pay to try it on an aluminium test thread first, but by all accounts they seem to fit the bill in that they are relatively inert with aluminium and not heat sensitive.

I suspect what's happening to people is a mix of things - some mild corrosion due to fouling and moisture, some mechanical binding due to fouling, some mechanical binding due to minute amounts of galling, and some mechanical binding due to heating and cooling allowing the threads to further lock together. Judicious application of heat and cold can often free up a stuck thread... so I'm told  :Psmiley:

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## Smallfoot

If you get them stuck, you can get them undone without damage with a pair of strap wrenches (easy enough to make if you've some tie downs and bits of wood lying around.

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## PaulNZ

No comment on whether a nickel anti-seize would actually cause galvanic corrosion in this application - I haven't looked into it to make my own mind up - but according to CRC for aluminum you want a zinc anti-seize. From their website:

_Zinc Grade is for aluminum threaded components. Used to prevent seizing during assembly or disassembly of threaded or unthreaded components fabricated from aluminum or its alloys, engaged with components fabricated from similar or dissimilar metals. It is also intended to provide corrosion protection to the metal surfaces. This type is typically used in airplane manufacturing._

Currently on clearance pricing at NZSafetyBlackwoods for only $50.49 for a 1lb can. Should be enough to keep your suppressor from seizing for a millennia or two  :Thumbsup:  Or maybe someone wants to sell it on the forum at $5 an ounce?

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## tommygun

Another vote for gentle heat with an oven or blowtorch, just to warm it up a little, then strap wrenches, homemade or otherwise, and/or wrap one end in leather and stick in a vice. Even without cleaning I'm pretty sure the life of a suppressor is a higher round count than the barrel it's on in most cases, I wouldn't sweat it if I couldn't get it apart. I think the Sonic/Neilson brand one's have a slot in each baffle and you can get a pair of wrenches for them that hook into said slots for unscrewing. It wouldn't surprise me if DPT went that way at some point.

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## tommygun

It's the people who's suppressors have seized onto their rifles that scare me =/

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## bigbear

I can imagine Dpt staff sitting down at smoko and laughing at all the what to do's on here and what product to use  "thinking what a pack of turkeys"

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## Three O'Three

> I can imagine Dpt staff sitting down at smoko and laughing at all the what to do's on here and what product to use  "thinking what a pack of turkeys"


Be nice if one of them would chimed in and gave some advice.
I had to undo one once, 3 out of 5 baffles were really seized. Even with the outside completely clean I couldn't get hose clamps to hold tight enough, just slipped. Tried using a small hammer to tap away at one of the hose clamps screws like @Ingrid 51 suggested which worked on one baffle but didn't work on any others, ended up missing and hitting the baffles edge and denting it slightly. After three days of soaking in "break away" penetrating lude I managed to undo with bare hands and brute strength and a little help with some multigrips. This was from firing only half a dozen rounds after giving the suppressor a tharra clean and lubing the thread with lithium grease after the previous shooting session. 6 rounds caused that much work and stress.

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## Cigar

My DPT came with instructions saying to clean with WD40, and use lithium grease on the threads, so that's what I do.

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## caberslash

Moderators, like barrels, are ultimately disposable.

I understand the importance of maintenance, and own a DPT mod, but I won't be stripping the thing down after every hunt or range trip.

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## DeonK

Some people can read a magazine while having a sh@t so maybe taking the suppressor next time and clean it,  plenty of time there i guess😁

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## Carbine

i use crc aerosol copper anti seize on the threaded parts, and wd40 specialist silicone on a rag on the outside and inside to clean never had a problem with any stuck sections

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## Flyblown

> I think the Sonic/Neilson brand one's have a slot in each baffle and you can get a pair of wrenches for them that hook into said slots for unscrewing. It wouldn't surprise me if DPT went that way at some point.


They already have a purpose built wrench, available at the shop, I’ve watched Nick use one. 

I’m pretty sure it’s available for sale.

Always a good idea to follow the instructions that came with your suppressor:

Suppressor maintenance instructions - DPT Machinists

Having used them for years and been through this multiple times with my rough as mates, I can assure you the DPT will not seize if you do the basic preventative maintenance and don’t over tighten the baffles when reassembling. I watched one particular mate of mine, who is an enormous unit with hands like walrus flippers, carefully reassemble his suppressor after I had cleaned it for him, and then go to each individual baffle and give it a twist as if he was torquing up cylinder head bolts. Despite the threads having just been lubricated, I couldn’t get it undone again. Irritating! Old mate got it undone…. eventually.




> Be nice if one of them would chimed in and gave some advice.


You can always mention one of the guys directly and if they are around they will reply, usually. 

However… I was in the shop of a well-known person in the trade last week, and I asked him why I hadn’t seen him around on the forum for ages. Very straightforward answer, he thinks the forum has been taken over by a bunch of whingeing anti-everything fuckwits who attract exactly the wrong kind of attention to all of us, at a difficult time. He named some names, some of whom were removed in recent weeks.

When I left the shop I was really annoyed, but fully understood where he’s coming from. I think it’s a great shame that the expertise of some of our innovative New Zealand guys is not as available to us in public forum as it used to be, for precisely the reasons that some of us have been going on about for bloody ages. No it wasn’t one of the DPT guys, but come to think of it I haven’t seen them around here for ages either. 

Anyway. Rant over. 

Maintain your suppressors!

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## 308mate

> I bought a second hand one with a seized stainless baffle on the main blast chamber. I tried pretty hard to get it off and looks like it on there for good. I'm glade its stainless not alloy.The other alloy baffles are fine to undo with anti-seize on the threads. This is my first modular suppressor and really happy with the performance and build quality.


 @tikka how did you find it compared to the Oceania Defence can? Are you replacing the Oceania can with the dpt?

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## Friwi

Back at work tomorrow.
Any body who has one of our suppressor stuck , we usually take it appart and service it at no charge. Juste bring it with you to the workshop.

Cheers.

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## jakewire

> My DPT came with instructions saying to clean with WD40, and use lithium grease on the threads, so that's what I do.


Me two
I guess it's all very well using this and that but if the bloke that makes them tells you to do something to maintain it I'm picking he knows what he is talking about
I'm sure if DPT came up with  a better solution than they already have then they would tell us,

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## Three O'Three

> Back at work tomorrow.
> Any body who has one of our suppressor stuck , we usually take it appart and service it at no charge. Juste bring it with you to the workshop.
> 
> Cheers.


 @Friwi. Whats are good alternative to wd40. Innox, CRC, Break Away, All in One, gun oil......? 
Can Gun cleaner be used to remove carbon build up?

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## Friwi

You can use Inox if you do not have wd40. Avoid CRC 5.56 at all cost as we have found that its  rust removing formula tend to degrade the finish of the suppressor over time.
There might be other alternatives out there, but frankly wd40 works very well and is available in pretty mush every supermarket in the country.

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## Micky Duck

@amlnz

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## tikka

> @tikka how did you find it compared to the Oceania Defence can? Are you replacing the Oceania can with the dpt?


Both equally great in sound suppression in the 300 blackout supers and subs, both are top quality builds. The 3D printed titanium in the ODL makes them pricey for the average 20 rounds a year shooter. 
No not replacing the ODL can, I only got it for my 300BLK and is coming up to 6000 rounds with zero issues and would get another if I built a custom rifle. 
The DPT can is on the 308 and works perfect, I strip it down every 50 - 200 rounds, clean and re-lube the baffle threads, no problems for a $200 second hand suppressor. I haven’t had any alloy baffle wear yet with rapid 10+ rounds goats culling and has only done 800 rounds so far.

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## tikka

Heres my stuck baffle removal kit, 2 hose clamps and rubber strips to grip and unmarked baffles. A few light taps from a hammer and free or unless your got the strength of 10 village idiots that will work too.

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## mikee

> Here’s my stuck baffle removal kit, 2 hose clamps and rubber strips to grip and unmarked baffles. A few light taps from a hammer and free or unless your got the strength of 10 village idiots that will work too.


I'm gonna have to try again, I have 3 seized suppressors, the 4 newer ones are ok as I finally read the instructions that come with each one.

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## TeRei

We cover the stainless baffles in white vinegar. The crud comes off and leaves it spotless. We use kero to clean the inside of other baffles with a rag and put Valprex grease on the threads when reassembling. We have both MK1 and MK2 cans. We have the DPT grips for both models.Shame not not use the proper gear if it is available.2C.

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## tikka

It’s the kiwi way to think out side the box to get it done on the cheap.

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## caberslash

> It’s the kiwi way to think out side the box to get it done on the cheap.


Must have learnt from the Scots!  :Thumbsup:

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## Sideshow

God I must be doing something wrong mine aren’t stuck :Wtfsmilie:  but then I did follow @Friwi post #11 lol

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## Danger Mouse

> Back at work tomorrow.
> Any body who has one of our suppressor stuck , we usually take it appart and service it at no charge. Juste bring it with you to the workshop.
> 
> Cheers.


That's some bloody good service!

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## mikee

> Its the kiwi way to think out side the box to get it done on the cheap.


I should have just read the bloody instructions instead of ............

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## Cigar

> Its the kiwi way to think out side the box to get it done on the cheap.


Yeah, because WD40 is sooo expensive....  :Psmiley:

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## mikee

Ii would prefer to send all mine to dpt  for dismantling /service and grovel for forgiveness but the whole mail order permit thing just makes it way too hard now.

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## tikka

> Must have learnt from the Scots!


Yes 1/4 on my mothers side. :Thumbsup:

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## TeRei

> Its the kiwi way to think out side the box to get it done on the cheap.


Known Darren when he was in Tok many years ago. Many rifles and cans done by him. Kinda figured he knows what he is talking about. Quality product the DPT can.Like to look after it properly. No eff ups in the field that way. Different rags for different shooters.

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