Thread: .22 K Hornet barrel twist rate ?

I'm just about to send an action off to get a custom octagonal barrel made and fitted.
Its going to be a .22 K Hornet and I'm intending using it as an old school walking varmint rifle.
Will be 224 barrel and I guess I will be mainly running 45 and 50 grain projectiles at moderate speeds for K Hornet as the action is an original 1885 Winchester Low Wall single shot.

I have the choice of 1:8, 1:10, 1:12 and 1:14" twist rates.
My investigations have lead me to think 1:12" would be the sweet spot for this cartridge and what I want it to do.
But this will be my very first experience with a Hornet for reloading etc
What do those of you in the know think I should go for ?
And what barrel twist ( if known ) do those of you who have a 22 Hornet or 22 K Hornet use ?

Yes, I'd go for a 1:12 for those weights. Should also handle 40gr. Great wee caliber in K form.

Ive got 2 22 hornets as far as i can find out they are 1 in 12s i reload for them and use 35vmax if you havnt reloaded for this cal before your going to learn patience as well its one of those calibers you either love or hate i love them

My K Hornet is 1:16 and thats a pain. I'd go 1:12 too, its very rare for "over stabilized" bullets not to shoot just fine, and its not like a K Hornet will push anything fast enough to cause it to fly to bits.

Longer, more streamlined 50gr bullets will definitely need the 1:12 twist; what I would use if I had a choice (although I have managed to get accuracy with very blunt/short 50gr Highland bullets in a 1:16 Hornet). There are several reamer variations in shoulder angle and neck length which are promoted as the K-Hornet (Kilbourne Hornet). Be careful that the reamer that you use is compatible with easily available die sets or you may have to fork out significant money for a custom die set. PPU brass is the best commonly available brass if you don't have a supply of Norma or RWS. Saubier.com is the primary web-based source of information about everything Hornet.

could you get a standard hornet die reamed with the same reamer that youll use on the build

I have built two .22 K hornets both on 1-14" twist barrels and both shot great. Only ever shot 40gr vmax and 40gr Blitzkings through them to keep the speeds up o the tiny cartridge. Id go 1-12" for anything heavier than 45gr but dont expect too much speed from that combo.
I highly recommend annealing your brass before fireforming as that hornet brass is really bad for split necks and case head separation as the brass is thin and migrates fast.

1:12 it is then

don't forget some pics as well

This is the 1885 Low wall action with a wooden octagonal barrel fitted so that the main spring could be installed to be able to test the full function of the action. And especially the single set trigger.



And this is the full mock up of where its all going to.
Octagonal 25" barrel.
The PVC pipe is a mock up of a WM Malcolm 6x telescope sight which is 18" x 3/4" tube in exterior adjustable mounts.
The macro stock mock up was so I could work out how far to lift the cheek piece up to be able to see through the scope without the head floating around. And also I haven't made a complete walnut gun stock in ages and though it might be good practice to rough one up out of some off cuts before cutting into the walnut.



I'm practicing slow rust bluing on a couple of less valuable projects at the moment and should be up to speed when the 1885 gets back from the Gunsmith's.
Wouldn't want to make a mess of this one !

Great wee cartridge. Always wanted one and lucked out when NZ noddy sold his to me. Shot a couple deer with it using 55 hornady sp's.
40 vmax turns rabbits and such inside out.
Get a bit of speed out of them for their size.
Try and source RWS brass and anneal it like mentioned above.
I have had no trouble reloading mine apart from tight necks. Annealing and graphite has sorted that.

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akaroa1: where do you get the materials for slow rust bluing from (always wanted to have a go)?

Looks cool will be keeping an eye out for it

Originally Posted by rupert

akaroa1: where do you get the materials for slow rust bluing from (always wanted to have a go)?

I'm using Laurel Mountain slow rust blue.
I have borrowed a carding wheel and brush but don't use the wheel.
0000 steel wool is all you will need for carding.
I'm steaming to turn the red oxide to black oxide.

The real art is in getting the metal very well prepared and working through the abrasive grades all the way from 80 grit to 400 grit and not trying to make big jumps between abrasive grades.
I alternate between cross sanding and draw sanding and a usual regime is 80, 100, 150,180,240,280,320 and 400 grit .... so its not quick, but it is beautiful when you get it right.

I now need to get a set of grinding stones for some of the projects coming up so that I can stone some items through the grades and keep the flats flat etc

I did plenty of practice on barrel stubs before I started on the current projects.
It's a steep learning curve.

I'm gunna have to keep a good eye on this thread, always greatly desired an original Low wall, or even betterer a High Wall, 22K Hornet is a fun little cartridge to play with, but I would much prefer a 221 Fireball or 222, but thats just me. I sure hope it ends up a good un.