Primers don't protrude just flat level with the back of the case
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Primers don't protrude just flat level with the back of the case
I've got a set of .223 headspace gauges.Quote:
Originally Posted by northdude
Send me a PM with your contact details if you want to borrow them.
poke the pointy end of your case deburring tool in primer pocket and give it a couple of whirls.....sort of champher/countersink the very lip of primer pockets.....new ones slide in like a well greased pr*#k up a slack f#nny.... from then on.Quote:
Originally Posted by R93
Things that would increase pressure - projectile seated to deep, short lead, tight throat, excessively low case capacity. Shoot your loads through another AR and have a look. I have only ever seen thermo-nuclear warm handloads give blown primers in a Nato cut chamber. That was an insanely hot 77gr load.
Yeah. I do it a bit quicker with a countersink bit in the drill.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Still a pain as I did a couple thousand 50 at a time. And used a giraud tool to trim and chamfer. They are all loaded up now. So less work loading them next time for the ones I manage to pick up.
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@northdude invest in a wilson case gauge it could be an issue with how your resizing your brass also
Have you tryed factory ammo if its the rifle you'll get the same issues with that
Also
Shit that's not good. One thing, see the pin strikes are of different depths?Quote:
Originally Posted by northdude
Head space?
What primers are you using?
Maybe the chamber is out of spec?
I would hesitate to keep shooting that until a gunsmith has looked at it.
havnt tried one ill run some factory I got today through it and see what happens
cciQuote:
Originally Posted by 300CALMAN
Factory will tell you right away if its a rifle issue or a loading issue it could be ether
My geuss is rifle did I hear you right that you replaced the barrel? Did you install it correctly maybe a silly question I don't know much about ar's
theres a little bit of soot on the ones with the pierced primers I'm guessing its come out from the hole in the primer yep its had a different barrel they only go on one way
A vld reamer, a corded drill with the push button keep on break finger button, g clamped to the bench, and keep feeding brass. Result, de crimped brass and bloody sore thumbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by R93
As to op, head space issues.
i use a rubber band(old tube) or a cable tie pulled over the trigger on a drill sitting in a vice for all the case tools.
Thanks guys going to take it apart and get headspace checked first
ok many thanks to one of our gc forum members it appears I have a rather bad headspace problem
great to read you now know what issue is....now get it sorted then go shoot some more....all that stress needs some recoil therapy.
you bet and a nice shoulder massage
Glad you got to the bottom of it.
Hopefully it will be an easy fix.
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Good stuff. If that bolt worked OK in a different barrel I would be suspicious of the barrel. If the bolt is OK, head space is adjustment on an AR barrel is a major.Quote:
Originally Posted by northdude
I tried it on the existing barrel and the original barrel it came with they were both miles out probably explains the accuracy problems I was having
Well there you go.Quote:
Originally Posted by northdude
Recoil???? fuck I hate the 223 hurts like errrQuote:
Originally Posted by Paddy79
Me to :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Maca49
I wouldn't shoot my AR in a 3 gun comp without a muzzle break.
Tried shooting without either a suppressor or brake and the difference is a fair bit and my rifle is front heavy. Suppressor is actually worse for me than shooting without anything. And to be fair you would trash any suppressor in no time with the volume of fire on some courses.
Their is enough recoil in a .223 to make a difference in a fast course of fire.
Using a good brake speeds things up.
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Exactly the reason why most built up AR's are braked. Try a double tap without one and see how difficult it is to remain on target. Would an ODL get trashed R93? They certainly get feckn hot!Quote:
Originally Posted by R93
Appologies. I should have stated that my suppressor would get trashed. It is well built but not as robust as some designed for the task.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathias
I was properly advised when it was built for me to go to a couple brands that specialise in high volume suppressors if I was going to use it exclusively for 3 gun.
A lot of ROs complained about the noise of my AR during a course. So I thought a suppressor would help stop the whinging.[emoji38]
It did but it slowed my acquisition down way too much. I now don't use it at all. It is getting fitted to a new toy when I get home so not a complete waste of money.
They can whinge all they want about my break. It is legal and I will keep using it[emoji106]
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A bit of info I got told to try a factory round in the chamber then put tape on the back of the case and try it 1 layer of masking tape measured 5 thou not totally accurate but better than nothing perhaps it took 2 strips of tape to stop the bolt closing
Yep brand new sent it away so hopefully it gets sorted
I am a bit confused here northdude.
I assume you sourced some headspace gauges and both barrels chambered the No go?
Or have I got that wrong?
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Yep tried some gauges in the barrel I fitted to ar that was blowing primers and the bolt closed and still had clearance you could feel on the no go gauge so out of interest tried it on the original barrel it came with that was inaccurate as hell ant it was the same
Is it the same bolt with two different barrels? If so, I would think that the bolt face has been cut to deep, or the lugs set back too far.
Yep seems to be the bolt I'd think
