300 WM load development

Hi all.
Does multiple fired brass shoot/group less good than new brass??

I’m trying to get a load for my 300 WM. Im using multiple firings Norma brass. all have been fired out of this rifle.
rifle new to me, new hardy barrel 28” 1-9” twist.
I’m wanting to shoot 225gr ELDM.
I can’t get under 1” groups in my load development.
have tried charges from 65gr to 78gr where I got pressure. seating depths ladders and different primers. ado 2225 & adi 2217

I can get my 300wsm sub moa so shouldn’t just be my shooting ability I wouldn’t think.

Cheers

I would normally tell ya brass should be good for 10-15, or more firings unless you're thrashing velocity. Maybe also less for the magnum chamberings. Loose primer pockets will tell you.
The brass flow/internal volume difference across firings is irrelevant, from a ballistic standpoint.

Since you're comfortable you can shoot sub-moa, it would indicate fault with the rifle. (Might pay to Have someone else shoot a powder-charge ladder-over-chrony, just to check)
Most likely would be crown, stock screw torque/barrel float, optic mounting/optic, trigger?? bipod?

Try some factory ammo to get a base line. Might also like a different projectile etc.

Properly fireformed and fettled brass doesn't hinder the accuracy potential of a rifle at all. Quite the opposite.

But not every rifle in every chambering is capable of shooting "sub MOA all day" like we'd like them to be. If you think it should be doing better then you've got to make sure every element of the system as a whole is up to the task, otherwise you're chasing your tail.

More details on the rifle please. Make, model, barrel length, barrel profile, round count, stock, total weight, suppressor or muzzle brake... And what is the honest average group size you get with it's favourite brand of factory ammo?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pommy

Properly fireformed and fettled brass doesn't hinder the accuracy potential of a rifle at all. Quite the opposite.

But not every rifle in every chambering is capable of shooting "sub MOA all day" like we'd like them to be. If you think it should be doing better then you've got to make sure every element of the system as a whole is up to the task, otherwise you're chasing your tail.

More details on the rifle please. Make, model, barrel length, barrel profile, round count, stock, total weight, suppressor or muzzle brake... And what is the honest average group size you get with its favourite brand of factory ammo?

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Thanks mate, rifle is.
Rem 700, 28” hardy No7 contour. 1-9” twist. Hardy stealth suppresor, Bergara HMR stock, iv never shot factory ammo with it. I had built it wanting to get the 225gr ELDM to shoot in it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blackfern

Try some factory ammo to get a base line. Might also like a different projectile etc.

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Cheers mate, I’ll try some factories in it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 11mms

I would normally tell ya brass should be good for 10-15, or more firings unless you're thrashing velocity. Maybe also less for the magnum chamberings. Loose primer pockets will tell you.
The brass flow/internal volume difference across firings is irrelevant, from a ballistic standpoint.

Since you're comfortable you can shoot sub-moa, it would indicate fault with the rifle. (Might pay to Have someone else shoot a powder-charge ladder-over-chrony, just to check)
Most likely would be crown, stock screw torque/barrel float, optic mounting/optic, trigger?? bipod?

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Thanks mate, I’ll get a professional to have a look at scope & mounts ect, iv put them all on myself. loktite & levels ect, but I’m a novice so could be that.
Thanks again

If you have them available I'd be tempted to try a different projectile, if possible something that's known as being easy to get to shoot well. That way you know if your rifle just doesn't like the 225gr eld or if it is a bigger issue. Factory ammo can be pretty good but with the limited availability at the moment finding something that your rifle likes or testing enough types to show the rifle won't shoot will be time-consuming and expensive.

On the rifle side the scope mounts and action screws would be the first place to go looking. Then I'd check the bedding if you haven't already, might not quite be fitting together right seeing as you've got 3 different manufacturers involved between action, stock and barrel. (Hell even when one company does it all they don't always get it right)