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Thread: .308 reloading starting point

  1. #16
    Member Oldbloke's Avatar
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    GRT is a great program and with luck the new version will be out in a few months.
    I've used it, but really just to confirm against ADI data.
    Could be usefull for old cartridges to I guess.

    The average joker simply doesn't need it IMHO.
    Hunt safe, look after the bush & plug more pests. The greatest invention in the history of man is beer.
    https://youtu.be/2v3QrUvYj-Y
    A bit more bang is better.

  2. #17
    Member Happy Jack's Avatar
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    I run 44.5Gr 2208 and Nosler Ballistic tip 165Gr in my 22" Mauser, haven't chronographed them yet but they are accurate and that's what matters
    Happy Jack.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst View Post
    Just buy factory superformance 150sst. You won't be able to load them any faster, and handloading takes forever to pay for itself
    It's all I use,point n shoot to 300yds.Tikka 20 in barrel.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northlandnewbie View Post
    Looked at most of the options including TTSX based on info on here just couldn’t go past the price of SST for what I’m doing.
    The dude I loaded those up for was using 150 SST but is never going back to them .

  5. #20
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    Use the Hornady overall length, you'll be fine.

    Also Adi website has pistol data for 308 win, 2206h and a 150 grain NBT which is pretty close to SST. Check it out.

    https://www.adiworldclass.com.au/dat...308-winchester

  6. #21
    Member G.I_Joel's Avatar
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    Like a few have said it’s a guide.
    My 308 doesn’t like the SSTs at all.
    Loves 130s TTSX with 47gn of 2206h

    Load testing is really the only way to go. Find what works as what works in one rifle wont work in another.
    Also don’t be stuck on “I must use this projectile”

    I always ran factory 150s in my 308 and once I started reloading I found the 130s to be by far the best.
    And when I want a “cheaper” round, I run Hornady SP 130s instead.
    Go fast, Don’t suck

  7. #22
    bjp
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    If you are mostly bowling over goats, what sort of ranges are you shooting them at? What is your barrel twist? I was just thinking that instead on focusing on speed, you could just find a load that shoots well and stick with it. Will the 100 fps slower really matter?

    I've done some numbers for my 16" barrel 308, compared to my 24" 308, velocity drops off more with the lighter projectiles (125gn) than it does with the heavier ones (168gn), I was trying 2208 and 2206h, both about the same performance.

    For my 16.5" Bergara 308 I shoot 168gn A-max with 43gn 2206h, around 2520 fps. Same load is 195 fps faster in the 24" rifle. Either one will do the job though

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjp View Post
    If you are mostly bowling over goats, what sort of ranges are you shooting them at? What is your barrel twist? I was just thinking that instead on focusing on speed, you could just find a load that shoots well and stick with it. Will the 100 fps slower really matter?

    I've done some numbers for my 16" barrel 308, compared to my 24" 308, velocity drops off more with the lighter projectiles (125gn) than it does with the heavier ones (168gn), I was trying 2208 and 2206h, both about the same performance.

    For my 16.5" Bergara 308 I shoot 168gn A-max with 43gn 2206h, around 2520 fps. Same load is 195 fps faster in the 24" rifle. Either one will do the job though
    20-400 yards often fairly decent wind factor too (well for me anyway). Stock Tikka barrel think it’s 11 twist. I’m not doing it for speed just if I’m going to do things I like to try get all the good out of it rather than just a little. I was tempted to move up to eldm/x but cost becomes a factor and if the SST do the job we’re ok. All the ammo I’ve put through it kills stuff pretty well if I do my bit. Do a bit of gong shooting and I find groups open up quite a bit beyond 300yards with SP so if I can reduce the margin of error I reckon I’ll be a bit better off.

    I’ve got a pretty decent idea of where I’m going with it thanks to a few on here and decent dose of reading just need some time to put it all in to practice.

  9. #24
    bjp
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    Yeah I got a good price on a couple of boxes of A-max, otherwise I'd also be using SSTs most likely.

    One useful piece of advice I was given - not every rifle like boattail projectiles, most shoot flat based projectiles fine, so if you are having issues with accuracy of boat tails, try switching to a flat based projectile (like Sierra Pro Hunter)... I realise the BC isn't as good if you are going for distance, but if you end up with tighter groups at long range, that's really what matters by the sound of it. But definitely start with the SSTs, if they work then great.

  10. #25
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    Good point, I’m not sure what the Gamehead SP are as they’re a Sako projectile not Sierra like the Pro were. Could be all be a starting point or end point only one way to find out though.

  11. #26
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    I run 43g 2206h through similar setup with good ol corlokt or Hornady 150g projectiles for bulk of my shooting these days,acceptable accuracy and killing power.

  12. #27
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    For what it's worth I use 47 grains of 2208 for 2810 fps, using a 150 grain Interlock; from a 22 inch barrel. This is a general duties load, basically doing what the standard factory ammo claims they do. Shoots into an inch and does everything I want from a .308. An SST has never polluted it's bore.

    I dont get the line about how reloading takes forever to pay for itself - a box of normal ammo from the shop costs around $90 to $100 now. If I didnt reload I couldnt afford to shoot much.
    Andrew46826 likes this.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeRei View Post
    110gr TTSX with 47gr 748. Defy you to show me any stag that can walk away from being stung by that load. They dont walk they drop on the spot.
    @TeRei what speed are the 110s doing?

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Duxbury View Post
    For what it's worth I use 47 grains of 2208 for 2810 fps, using a 150 grain Interlock; from a 22 inch barrel. This is a general duties load, basically doing what the standard factory ammo claims they do. Shoots into an inch and does everything I want from a .308. An SST has never polluted it's bore.

    I dont get the line about how reloading takes forever to pay for itself - a box of normal ammo from the shop costs around $90 to $100 now. If I didnt reload I couldnt afford to shoot much.
    It depends on your mindset and why you want to reload. I'm in a similar mindset to you, I like shooting and it makes shooting way cheaper to do than buying box ammo (especially of you're shooting a magnum).

    At the other end of the scale, if you only shoot your rifle 5 times a year then it will take a very long time to pay for itself.

    Nothing wrong with either, just two very different ways of thinking.
    mikee and Andrew46826 like this.

  15. #30
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    Jury’s in cheers for the help all. Worked up to 45.5gn in a few jumps from 44.8gn seemed to group similar everything was within around 1.5”. Came out at 2769fps with a spread of 17fps. Pretty much the same speed as the Gamehead SP in the 20” barrel. Happy with results but need to use a better scale the $20 option wasn’t awfully consistent at 2 decimals.

    So fiocchi large rifle, Sako brass, 45.5gn 2206H, 150gn SST at 71mm OAL - 2769fps 16” suppressed.
    Andrew46826 likes this.

 

 

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