.308 reloading starting point

Beginning the reloading journey…have done a fair bit of reading but the more I read the more complicated it seems to get. Hoping someone can throw up a load using the same components with length so I don’t end up throwing coin away unnecessarily.

Rifle is a .308 T3x 16”currently shooting 150gn Gamehead at 2664fps. 2.677” OAL.

Components I have are Sako brass, 2206H and SST 150gn. I’d like a little more speed if I can get it.

I’ve played with GRT quite a bit and used max OAL 2.82” iirc for my initial calculations. Now if I start at Hornady length 2.735” it reduces charge below what folks on here seem to be running judging on speed which I guess means they’re running a different OAL. Obviously replicating the Gamehead length it reduces further…

I have help on hand for the actual putting together but unfortunately he only reloads .270 so it’s just the homework I’d love some help on.

Thanks in advance.

Just buy factory superformance 150sst. You won't be able to load them any faster, and handloading takes forever to pay for itself

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Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst

Just buy factory superformance 150sst. You won't be able to load them any faster, and handloading takes forever to pay for itself

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This 100% especially if you only ever intend to reload for a single caliber. ( unless you already have all the equipment )

I’ve got access to all the equipment and it’s around 60% to reload plus time spent obviously. Aim here is to run a better projectile at same/better speeds with less SD while saving a bit if possible. I’ve avoided reloading till now due to the money in setup and f around sorting a load but now I’ve got access to the gear it seems like a decent idea. If I was shooting 60 odd rounds a year I’d buy superformance but I’m biffing goats and can drop 20 rounds every second weekend so that starts to add up pretty quick.

I was using Belmont as it was cheap and worked but that hasn’t been an option for a fair while now, went to g/pro 150gn loved it then that dried up, then to Gamehead which is a trip to auck or mail order to get. I wanted one gun to do everything and it’s worked for me so far. I looked at .223 but it’s more outlay and similar cost on factory ammo to the reloading path. Judging on comments here it seems a lot of people reload .308 so I figured I’ve got nothing to lose. End of the day I’ve got everything I need so it’s happening anyway :thumbsup: If it doesn’t pan I’ll jump back on the Gamehead and go forth.

Attachment 268945

This might help

My own load is 45gn Pro Varmint with 168gn Maker speed is 2650 in 16 inch barrel.

Like all things reloading start low and go up slowly with powder charge, never rely solely on what someone else says they use/is safe!!! :D

@Ryan_Songhurst what speeds did you get from your 16" superlite howa with factory superformance ammo?
Or is your barrel shorter than that?

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Originally Posted by Brad S

@Ryan_Songhurst what speeds did you get from your 16" superlite howa with factory superformance ammo?
Or is your barrel shorter than that?

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One of his comments I saw when searching was 2730fps/14.5”.

14.75" and it did 2730, the superformance match 168eldm does 2625

Reloading is a great hobby that helps you to get the best rom yr rifles. ADI call their "handloaders guide" a guide for good reason. It's a guide, each bullet, powder and rifle combination will give various results.
AR2206h is a good choice.
Their data for 308 using AR2206h with a 150gr bullet suggests:
Start 42gr- abt 2700fps
Max 45.5gr - abt 2800fps 24" barrel.
I would just load something along the lines of:
42,
43,
43.7
44.4
45.1
45.5
3 of each.
Then if one shows promise try a couple of loads a tad above and a tad below that load, groups of 4 or 5.

Each bullet is shaped differently. Throats vary too. 0.020" (0.5mm) off the lands is generally a good spot.
Find out the OAL touching the lands then seat all your bullets 0.020" further in.

For the time being stay away from grt. I would stick to the basics.

For the time being stay away from grt. I would stick to the basics.

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Originally Posted by Northlandnewbie

Beginning the reloading journey…have done a fair bit of reading but the more I read the more complicated it seems to get. Hoping someone can throw up a load using the same components with length so I don’t end up throwing coin away unnecessarily.

Rifle is a .308 T3x 16”currently shooting 150gn Gamehead at 2664fps. 2.677” OAL.

Components I have are Sako brass, 2206H and SST 150gn. I’d like a little more speed if I can get it.

I’ve played with GRT quite a bit and used max OAL 2.82” iirc for my initial calculations. Now if I start at Hornady length 2.735” it reduces charge below what folks on here seem to be running judging on speed which I guess means they’re running a different OAL. Obviously replicating the Gamehead length it reduces further…

I have help on hand for the actual putting together but unfortunately he only reloads .270 so it’s just the homework I’d love some help on.

Thanks in advance.

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110gr TTSX with 47gr 748. Defy you to show me any stag that can walk away from being stung by that load. They dont walk they drop on the spot.

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Originally Posted by TeRei

110gr TTSX with 47gr 748. Defy you to show me any stag that can walk away from being stung by that load. They dont walk they drop on the spot.

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Looked at most of the options including TTSX based on info on here just couldn’t go past the price of SST for what I’m doing.

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Originally Posted by Oldbloke

Reloading is a great hobby that helps you to get the best rom yr rifles. ADI call their "handloaders guide" a guide for good reason. It's a guide, each bullet, powder and rifle combination will give various results.
AR2206h is a good choice.
Their data for 308 using AR2206h with a 150gr bullet suggests:
Start 42gr- abt 2700fps
Max 45.5gr - abt 2800fps 24" barrel.
I would just load something along the lines of:
42,
43,
43.7
44.4
45.1
45.5
3 of each.
Then if one shows promise try a couple of loads a tad above and a tad below that load, groups of 4 or 5.

Each bullet is shaped differently. Throats vary too. 0.020" (0.5mm) off the lands is generally a good spot.
Find out the OAL touching the lands then seat all your bullets 0.020" further in.

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Cheers yep understand everything’s different much like tuning a car. I’ll check lands and load up as suggested and see what works.

I was mainly using GRT to get an idea of what to use for best performance before buying components but definitely wouldn’t be running with it as gospel. Thanks for the help mate.

In that rig I’d just load up a grain below max, a half grain higher then max charge to fit in mag. Shoot three of each. If no pressure issues at max, load up ten, shoot a group. If it’s 1.5 inches or lower, go hunting. If no good, try drop a large powder increment like a grain or 1.5 grain and try again. Don’t muck around with small powder increments or seating depth stuff. Plenty data around now showing it don’t do jack shit for hunting type scenarios with factory gear.

GRT is a great program and with luck the new version will be out in a few months.
I've used it, but really just to confirm against ADI data.
Could be usefull for old cartridges to I guess.

The average joker simply doesn't need it IMHO.

I run 44.5Gr 2208 and Nosler Ballistic tip 165Gr in my 22" Mauser, haven't chronographed them yet but they are accurate and that's what matters

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Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst

Just buy factory superformance 150sst. You won't be able to load them any faster, and handloading takes forever to pay for itself

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It's all I use,point n shoot to 300yds.Tikka 20 in barrel.

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Originally Posted by Northlandnewbie

Looked at most of the options including TTSX based on info on here just couldn’t go past the price of SST for what I’m doing.

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The dude I loaded those up for was using 150 SST but is never going back to them .

Use the Hornady overall length, you'll be fine.

Also Adi website has pistol data for 308 win, 2206h and a 150 grain NBT which is pretty close to SST. Check it out.

https://www.adiworldclass.com.au/dat...308-winchester

Like a few have said it’s a guide.
My 308 doesn’t like the SSTs at all.
Loves 130s TTSX with 47gn of 2206h

Load testing is really the only way to go. Find what works as what works in one rifle wont work in another.
Also don’t be stuck on “I must use this projectile”

I always ran factory 150s in my 308 and once I started reloading I found the 130s to be by far the best.
And when I want a “cheaper” round, I run Hornady SP 130s instead.

If you are mostly bowling over goats, what sort of ranges are you shooting them at? What is your barrel twist? I was just thinking that instead on focusing on speed, you could just find a load that shoots well and stick with it. Will the 100 fps slower really matter?

I've done some numbers for my 16" barrel 308, compared to my 24" 308, velocity drops off more with the lighter projectiles (125gn) than it does with the heavier ones (168gn), I was trying 2208 and 2206h, both about the same performance.

For my 16.5" Bergara 308 I shoot 168gn A-max with 43gn 2206h, around 2520 fps. Same load is 195 fps faster in the 24" rifle. Either one will do the job though

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Originally Posted by bjp

If you are mostly bowling over goats, what sort of ranges are you shooting them at? What is your barrel twist? I was just thinking that instead on focusing on speed, you could just find a load that shoots well and stick with it. Will the 100 fps slower really matter?

I've done some numbers for my 16" barrel 308, compared to my 24" 308, velocity drops off more with the lighter projectiles (125gn) than it does with the heavier ones (168gn), I was trying 2208 and 2206h, both about the same performance.

For my 16.5" Bergara 308 I shoot 168gn A-max with 43gn 2206h, around 2520 fps. Same load is 195 fps faster in the 24" rifle. Either one will do the job though

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20-400 yards often fairly decent wind factor too (well for me anyway). Stock Tikka barrel think it’s 11 twist. I’m not doing it for speed just if I’m going to do things I like to try get all the good out of it rather than just a little. I was tempted to move up to eldm/x but cost becomes a factor and if the SST do the job we’re ok. All the ammo I’ve put through it kills stuff pretty well if I do my bit. Do a bit of gong shooting and I find groups open up quite a bit beyond 300yards with SP so if I can reduce the margin of error I reckon I’ll be a bit better off.

I’ve got a pretty decent idea of where I’m going with it thanks to a few on here and decent dose of reading just need some time to put it all in to practice.

Yeah I got a good price on a couple of boxes of A-max, otherwise I'd also be using SSTs most likely.

One useful piece of advice I was given - not every rifle like boattail projectiles, most shoot flat based projectiles fine, so if you are having issues with accuracy of boat tails, try switching to a flat based projectile (like Sierra Pro Hunter)... I realise the BC isn't as good if you are going for distance, but if you end up with tighter groups at long range, that's really what matters by the sound of it. But definitely start with the SSTs, if they work then great.

Good point, I’m not sure what the Gamehead SP are as they’re a Sako projectile not Sierra like the Pro were. Could be all be a starting point or end point only one way to find out though.

I run 43g 2206h through similar setup with good ol corlokt or Hornady 150g projectiles for bulk of my shooting these days,acceptable accuracy and killing power.

For what it's worth I use 47 grains of 2208 for 2810 fps, using a 150 grain Interlock; from a 22 inch barrel. This is a general duties load, basically doing what the standard factory ammo claims they do. Shoots into an inch and does everything I want from a .308. An SST has never polluted it's bore.

I dont get the line about how reloading takes forever to pay for itself - a box of normal ammo from the shop costs around $90 to $100 now. If I didnt reload I couldnt afford to shoot much.

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Originally Posted by TeRei

110gr TTSX with 47gr 748. Defy you to show me any stag that can walk away from being stung by that load. They dont walk they drop on the spot.

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@TeRei what speed are the 110s doing?

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Originally Posted by John Duxbury

For what it's worth I use 47 grains of 2208 for 2810 fps, using a 150 grain Interlock; from a 22 inch barrel. This is a general duties load, basically doing what the standard factory ammo claims they do. Shoots into an inch and does everything I want from a .308. An SST has never polluted it's bore.

I dont get the line about how reloading takes forever to pay for itself - a box of normal ammo from the shop costs around $90 to $100 now. If I didnt reload I couldnt afford to shoot much.

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It depends on your mindset and why you want to reload. I'm in a similar mindset to you, I like shooting and it makes shooting way cheaper to do than buying box ammo (especially of you're shooting a magnum).

At the other end of the scale, if you only shoot your rifle 5 times a year then it will take a very long time to pay for itself.

Nothing wrong with either, just two very different ways of thinking.

Jury’s in cheers for the help all. Worked up to 45.5gn in a few jumps from 44.8gn seemed to group similar everything was within around 1.5”. Came out at 2769fps with a spread of 17fps. Pretty much the same speed as the Gamehead SP in the 20” barrel. Happy with results but need to use a better scale the $20 option wasn’t awfully consistent at 2 decimals.

So fiocchi large rifle, Sako brass, 45.5gn 2206H, 150gn SST at 71mm OAL - 2769fps 16” suppressed.