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Thread: 6.5 Creedmoor reloading for hunting advice please.

  1. #16
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    how do you get that much velocity with a 20inch barrel? I mean realistically most of my hunting is on 25-30kg goats and pigs well within 200m (more like 80m) however every once in a while I am presented with a mob at 300ish if I had velocity confidence I would bang away. lets say practice for for the biggest animal I would take at a similar range.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mroach View Post
    how do you get that much velocity with a 20inch barrel?
    I cant speak for @25/08 IMP but my 20" creedmoor is doing 2820 with 143 ELDX aswell, it used to do 2920 when it was 24". I use FED215 mag primer in lapua brass & projectile is seated way out, barely fits in the mag ( 2.960 COAL ) to be able to do it.

    For what your doing its really not necessary to chase that sort of speed. Even if you ran a light load of h4350 at around the 2600fps mark thats more than enough juice to take care of business well past your 300 ish goal.

  3. #18
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    I think some Tikka t3X fluted barrels are threaded new. mine is not fluted. first 2 rounds ever fired from rifle chambered fine ( those were 120's) but they were sticky apon extraction that alerted me so I switched over to 140s and ran them through the action without firing.( wasnt going to fire anymore 120s) there was a difference in force required to chamber the 140 compared to the 120. hence why I ditched the 120. No problem whatsoever with the 140s. If I had any pressure signs withs the 140 grainers I was going to stop and send to gunsmith.
    Micky Duck likes this.

  4. #19
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    So from what people are telling me the general consensus is factory ammunition is shite and that basic careful reloading/no magic pills is all I need to do?
    Micky Duck likes this.

  5. #20
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    ok, thats good news I would much rather spend time, getting my field shooting skill up to par than hunting reloading components.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mroach View Post
    So from what people are telling me the general consensus is factory ammunition is shite and that basic careful reloading/no magic pills is all I need to do?
    Factory ammo for the 6.5 Creedmoor is definitely not Shite. I've shot a lot of deer with the Hornady superformance 129gn SST out to around 500m. I get 3 shot groups under the 1/2 moa mark. The SST performs really well on deer size game. The rifle is a Tikka carbine with factory 20" barrel, suppressed.
    I'm now hand loading 143gn ELDX projectiles. Load is 41gn of ADI 2209 (4350) Magnum LR primer. Haven't Choreographed this load yet but through the 20" barrel I estimate around 2600. Groups are as good or better than the factory SST. This handload is close to maximum according to the ADI load data, but no pressure signs. I am tempted to try pushing it a little harder when I see some of the quoted velocities achieved by other members using the 143gn ELDX. However this load shots really well, so maybe not.
    Micky Duck, Mroach and 6.5 CRD like this.
    ZeroPak Vacuum Sealers, Zero air Zero waste

  7. #22
    Sending it Gibo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    sub 300 yards he wont need load development...... and adding suppressor simply dropped my poi by between 1-2 inches on 4 different rifles...did nothing else to group except maybe tighten them as I reacted less.
    Every handload needs load development you heathen
    Micky Duck and Mathias like this.

  8. #23
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    Thank you everyone, this information has been gold.. Oh and Micky duck my apologies for some of my previous postings,(different site) you have given me great advice. I am a humbled A-hole
    Micky Duck likes this.

  9. #24
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    to be honest with you, I am so new to the calibre i wouldnt know. would have thought you would need to handload to reach out that far with authority. now I know

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steelisreal View Post
    @Mroach - what were the 'pressure signs' that
    you're referring to? Did they have heavy bolt lift? Or was it that the primers are VERY flat in appearance?

    If your rifle shoots the 140 Ballistic Tip really well then you already have your answer. A couple of days ago Reloaders had those projectiles available for a good price - much cheaper than current retail on the 143ELD-X! If you have 6.5 Staball and H4350 you can definitely create a 300m hunting load with ease. It will go plenty fast if you leave your barrel at 22" long. Load up a bunch and go shooting!
    You will find the Nosler B tips about the same if not more expensive as they come in packets of 50 and at times are harder to get than eldx

    Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mroach View Post
    to be honest with you, I am so new to the calibre i wouldnt know. would have thought you would need to handload to reach out that far with authority. now I know
    I've never used factory ammo in mine but I use Laupa brass and I have now cut it to 19" and it's still shooting late 2700 with the eldx load.
    I just won't use a rifle now that is not surpressed, don't be afraid to cut it to 20" you won't loose bugger all speed.
    It won't be any less accurate if you cut the barrel in most cases it is more accurate.
    I would try the staBall powder that you have as that's what is was designed for.
    Make sure all your brass is the same brand and start from there.

    Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 25/08 IMP View Post
    You will find the Nosler B tips about the same if not more expensive as they come in packets of 50 and at times are harder to get than eldx

    Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk
    Yes, historically they have been more expensive than the Eld-X (the 120 B-Tip is currently $69/50 or $138/100) but Reloaders currently have 140 B-Tips at $49/50 or $98/100. Good buying if it suits your needs, in-stock at Reloaders and cheaper than the $119 to $125 per 100 I've seen the Eld-X advertised at:

    https://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Rel...0gr+26140.html
    Micky Duck likes this.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steelisreal View Post
    Yes, historically they have been more expensive than the Eld-X (the 120 B-Tip is currently $69/50 or $138/100) but Reloaders currently have 140 B-Tips at $49/50 or $98/100. Good buying if it suits your needs, in-stock at Reloaders and cheaper than the $119 to $125 per 100 I've seen the Eld-X advertised at:

    https://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Rel...0gr+26140.html
    That is a good buy the Nosler are bloody good pills.

    Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk
    Micky Duck likes this.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gibo View Post
    Every handload needs load development you heathen
    Im happy to resemble that remark...... but if he picks a middle of road load from manual...and then seats them as Ive suggested above,and they poke holes in paper in/around or under the inch mark.....well thats it job done,no need for further fluffing around,go shoot shit and be happy..and for crying out loud DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES go near a chronic graph.....
    (I can see Dannyb shaking his head and looking for jandles to throw at me) seriously,if its accurate just leave it alone...for what Mike is shooting,and the range he is shooting them at,no need for anything really super flash.... hell if his .223 wasnt a dud he could use that without any problems.
    75/15/10 black powder matters

  15. #30
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    ballistic tips are great......and if it was me......dual load,cheapest cup n core lead tipped for your 50-150 yard goats and 2nd load with ballistic tips for out long of if you feeling flash.... develop a tight shooting warm load with BTs and run with whatever shoots OK with the other....
    you use hell of a lot less components up and still be killing game with ease.
    and no need to apologize...Im just a cranky old fart....
    75/15/10 black powder matters

 

 

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