Thread: 6.5x55 accuracy

Hi all. I have a Carl Gustaf rifle that is horribly inaccurate with Hornady ammo but extremely accurate with the homeloads that came with it . Any ideas why this would be? I don't load my own and it's expensive to keep buying different brands trying to find what it likes. I'm relatively new to centrefire rifles so not clued up on it all. TIA

I reckon you need to speak to whoever sold you the rifle and ask nicely for a few reloading lessons!

Buy a used press and dies etc and you are away.

there is a bunch of advice about to be dumped on you here...
SOme is expert advice, some is not so expert.
I am a glorified novice, so dont ask me!

Projectile shape & weight, velocity & OAL all have an effect on accuracy.

I'm not in contact with the person who sold it to me..was a few years ago. I think he had someone else loading them for him. Can you load different calibers with the same gear? I don't use the 6.5 very often.

Surely standard factory ammo should be relatively accurate though?

I have several 6.5x55 variants dating from 1900 to modern Tikka. Each has its own load. I strongly suggest you start developing your own loads as they are significantly more accurate than commercial ammo. I use Lapua brass, Winchester primers and 2209 powder. I favour 139 Lapua Scenar for target work and 143 eld-x for game. COAL close to 3.11” but see what suits your rig. Start in the 40gr area for powder and don’t push the old girl too hard. These things can be insanely accurate.
I’m happy to communicate via PM and could provide you with a selection of re-sized brass. Yell out if you want to know more, but I’m heading away for a fortnight shortly.
Finally, if your rifle has a stock disc it should show the barrel condition. I’m happy to interpret the markings on said disc for you if needed.

Nope no saying box ammo will be accurate in any rifle yes reloading equipment can got between cals with a change of dies

Hand loading will get the best out of it. I own 3 of them. The mil ones prefer heavier pills and have a long throat. I think the mill ammo started as about 160gn round nose and then they went to about a 147gn bt off the top of my head. I think the 140 s&b shot ok in my mil ones from memory. What kind of gtoups are you getting and can you shoot good groups...

Originally Posted by Ingrid 51

I have several 6.5x55 variants dating from 1900 to modern Tikka. Each has its own load. I strongly suggest you start developing your own loads as they are significantly more accurate than commercial ammo. I use Lapua brass, Winchester primers and 2209 powder. I favour 139 Lapua Scenar for target work and 143 eld-x for game. COAL close to 3.11” but see what suits your rig. Start in the 40gr area for powder and don’t push the old girl too hard. These things can be insanely accurate.
I’m happy to communicate via PM and could provide you with a selection of re-sized brass. Yell out if you want to know more, but I’m heading away for a fortnight shortly.
Finally, if your rifle has a stock disc it should show the barrel condition. I’m happy to interpret the markings on said disc for you if needed.

Many Thanks, it came with a stack of empty cases. I'll post a picture of the gun and ammo it likes

Can't seem to post a photo. They are norma 139gn. and 38gns norma. Probably groups 60mm or so at 100m with these although I haven't put many through it cos I don't want to waste them!

The Hornadies wouldn't consistently hit a cardboard box

write that load down..... and dont loose it.
so projectile shape and weight matters.... the distance the projectile has to "jump" untill it enguages rifleing make a big difference in some rifles....and projectile shape makes big difference here.
the whitetail is probably quite different SOMEWHERE.... once you work out what the somewhere is,you can mitagate it.
if you can find some heavier blunter projectiles in factory ammunition..they COULD/SHOULD be better as will be closer to origonal military load,the projectile should also have less of said"jump" as big fat round front end has shoulders closer to edge of bore VS taper of a splitzer.

I have a Carl Gustaf 3000 in 6,5 x 55 and I am using RWS at the moment. Once I have shot the 100 RWS I will get my reloading guru to develop a load using the RWS brass. Today though it’s very accurate using quality factory ammo. My cousin has a CG in 22.250
and it’s a tack driver. So if the rifle has a good barrel it may be just about finding suitable quality factory ammo or finding someone who can develop an accurate hand load. CG’s have a good reputation.

Originally Posted by Peter Adams

Surely standard factory ammo should be relatively accurate though?

it is well known that factory ammo , especially american made is downloaded for fear of being sued on the off chance the old military reciever gets blown apart by too much pressure
as everyone else has said reloading is the way to go....
only 6.5x55 i had was a modern commercial mauser and it was accurate as hell with norma .....but the bank declined me a second mortgage to keep feeding it the factory ammo