Thread: 7mm Rem Mag Browning X-Bolt Hell’s Canyon Reload Advice

Hey Team,

I’ve recently purchased a Hell’s Canyon in 7RM and am looking for someone to suggest some potential loads that this rifle seems to like. I have a heaps of IMR 4831 from when my dad used to reload for his 7RM so i’d like to use that powder if possible. I’m wanting to be able to shoot out to 5-700m (with practice of course) and preferably use a heavier pill. I’m very new to reloading (these will be my first loads) so any relevant information would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Greetings 7RMBoy,
I don't have a 7mm Rem Mag (do have a 7mm SAUM) but think that you will find 4831, especially the IMR version, too fast especially for the heavier projectiles. AR2217 (H1000) or AR2225 (Retumbo) would be better. Look up the Hodgdons on line data for loads. Older load data for the 7mm Mag should not be used. When the test system changed about 20 years ago loads were reduced due to variable pressure in this cartridge. It is a good idea to get an idea of what works for people on the Forum but I would cross check this against actual pressure tested results in actual rifles. IMR and H4831 were used in the 7mm Rem Mag decades back when nothing else was available but there are better powders now. See if you can get someone to mentor you for a start (preferably someone older and hopefully wiser) and do a search of the on line data available for the projectiles you want to use. Remember the old proverb. "A journey of 1,000 miles (or kilometres) begins with a single step. Your first step may be a safe middle load that you can use out to 300 metres.
Happy handloading and hunting. There should be plenty of the latter where you live.
Regards Grandpamac.

indeed imr4831 is listed for 130-140-150grn loads and stops there in my older nosler manual......150grn 7mm is plenty enough...if you new to reloading...possibly new to shooting large calibres???? dont over gun yourself,slower less booty loads will get you out to 300mtrs with ease and not knock you around .far better to hit animal in right place with load going slightly slower than hit it in the bum with super fast job,cause you flinched.....and believe me,you DONT want to start doing that,its a hard road back out of that particular minefield...or should that read mindfield???

That will probably explain why my dad has a lot of 4831 as he was quite into reloading around my age, which is a while ago now... a work mate also shoots 7RM and loads for it so i’m getting some loads off of him to test and potentially modify. There is definitely a lot to it, when I start to do more research it becomes quite apparent. Cheers for the reply

find an old reloading manual...the nosler #2 is really good as it old Nick Harvey manuals...this is NOT for load data..although it is still relevant with caution re what Grandpamac has said...its so you can read the WHOLE front section 3 times and actually get your head around the HOW&WHY things do what they do....read it once and you end up loosing lots as its lots to take in.2nd reading will find another heap of stuff dropping into memory box and sticking....by third reading you will be finding whats really relevant and taking it on board properly.
Ive been loading for nearly 30 years and still have the basic step by step guide that comes with LEE dies on wall infront of reloading bench.

in mine I used 2225 powder and 150nosler ballistic tips
this was the days before 162 amax/eld-x/eldm bullets
Id go with them now

there are shitloads of GREAT .284 projectiles in 130-150grn range that will serve you well...dont overthink it...basic cup n core will do the job...softer and sleaker for out long (speer btsp or ELD if you want to be all modern)and heavier or stouter for up close n personal....job done.

IMR4831 worked very well in my Tikka 7mm Rem Mag with the 162 ELD-X at 20thou jump.

Greetings 7RMBoy,
I have a couple of suggestions for loads to get you started. I have recently tried to have a working load for my rifles, that I can use while faffing around with different powders and projectiles. This latter seems to be an endless phase. To use the IMR4831 powder that you have I would suggest loading 59 grains behind projectiles in the 154 to 162 grain range or 60 grains behind the 145 and 150 grain projectiles. Primers should be magnum type , Federal 215 or similar. These loads are about 2 grains below max loads in current data or the mid load I mentioned earlier. You may want to try loads a grain or two below these first. These should give velocities in the 2,800 to 2,900 fps range. I would also suggest using one of the standard cup and core projectiles such as the Hornady Interlock or SST. Before any loading I also suggest that you tip out a bit of the IMR4831 onto a white plate and look for any red dust in the powder. If any is found the powder is stuffed. Sprinkle it on your lawn and water it in. This may all sound a bit pedestrian to someone raised in the age of instant results but it is a good safe way to start. The loads will also be highly effective on deer large and small.
Regards Grandpamac.

It might pay to check powder as well as older powder does have a use by date and get erratic burn rates and velocities.

Originally Posted by ariki

It might pay to check powder as well as older powder does have a use by date and get erratic burn rates and velocities.

Greetings Ariki,
Some of the older ADI cans had a use by date but I have not seen one on IMR powders. Dupont only started marketing IMR4831 about 1972 although the 4831 marketed by Hodgdon in the 1950's and 1960's was manufactured by Dupont during WW2 as a bulk powder. Powder deterioration is usually due to poor storage conditions, especially heat. This often shows up as a red dusty look and acrid smell hence my suggestion. I am still using Dupont IMR4064 purchased in the 1980's which is fine. Cans of powder that have been opened and of unknown history should never be used as you do not know what is in there. I also would not use any AR2201 as this had a poor shelf life. Still good to be cautious though as you suggest.
Regards Grandpamac.

Hey Grandpamac and Ariki,

I will make sure to check the powder when i get home. It has been stored in plastic screw lid bottles and still smells fine according to my dad but i will check for the red powder. I have no problem with the time it will take to work up a load that suits me as I am very interested in learning the process and how it’s all done. I’ll try a few loads with the 4831 that you suggested. Dad also has some left over primers, half a tray of winchester and half a tray of Nosler, do these have a shelf life or are they most likely fine? I have heard good things about the Nosler Accubond pill, what sre your opinion on these for my desired use? Also what is the reason for watering the powder into my lawn?

Unrelated question; is there a way to get email notifications for when someone replies to my thread?

Cheers Team

7RMBoy,,

As you should now be aware IMR4831 is a good powder in the 7 mm mag. You have it so use it up before buying / trying anything else. Its a bit slower than RL-19 in this case and a bit quicker than H4831. Both these powders work well in the 7mm mag for me. It will work well with the 140 - 160 class of projectiles. It will work really well with the 140-150s but may not be quite as quick with the 160s as the slow powders quoted above RL-25, AR2225, H1000, AR2217 etc, but you should still be able to get 2950+ fps.

My more recent loading manuals (Speer 13th, Nosler 6th, Hornady 7th) all include it for the 7 mm Rem mag. From the Nosler manual the min and max loads and velocity for top load as follows - 62-66 for 140s (3200 fps), 61-65 gns for 150s (3240 fps), 59-63 gns for a 160 (3008 fps). The Nosler loads quoted here are a couple of grains more than the Speer and Hornady loads for equivalent projectile weights. So work up and watch for the usual signs, prioritize accuracy over velocity and good luck with it.

Originally Posted by 7RMBoy

Hey Grandpamac and Ariki,

I will make sure to check the powder when i get home. It has been stored in plastic screw lid bottles and still smells fine according to my dad but i will check for the red powder. I have no problem with the time it will take to work up a load that suits me as I am very interested in learning the process and how it’s all done. I’ll try a few loads with the 4831 that you suggested. Dad also has some left over primers, half a tray of winchester and half a tray of Nosler, do these have a shelf life or are they most likely fine? I have heard good things about the Nosler Accubond pill, what sre your opinion on these for my desired use? Also what is the reason for watering the powder into my lawn?

Unrelated question; is there a way to get email notifications for when someone replies to my thread?

Cheers Team

Greetings 7RMBoy,
As the powder does not seem to be in the original containers (IMR powders were in steel containers until about 2000, roughly) you need to be sure from your dad that it is actually IMR4831. It was packed in bulk containers and sometimes these got split between several people. If the plastic containers are factory marked IMR4831 then the powder is recent, great. If you can not positively identify the powder then its only good for the lawn and sprinkler treatment. You can't identify powders by sight. The reason for the lawn and sprinkler treatment is that rifle powder in high in nitrogen and is good fertilizer. The sprinkler is for added safety. The primers should be fine but I would probably go for some new Federal 215 primers as it deals with one of the unknowns. Both the Accubond and the Accubond Long Range projectiles are excellent but they do run the pressures up a bit faster than the cup and core types. You need to use the Nosler on line data for them which may not include IMR4831. The loads I quoted would be OK for H4831 and H4831 SC (AR2213SC) these are a little slower.
Regards and keep asking questions.
Grandpamac.