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Thread: anealing service

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  1. #1
    Fulla
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    anealing service

    im just wondering if there is an anealing service in new zealand.
    as in send your brass and money in, and get your brass anealed back. ?
    Bagheera likes this.

  2. #2
    Addicted puku's Avatar
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    Yea that would be an awesome service
    Rule 5: Check your firing zone

  3. #3
    P38
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    Or you could save your self all the bother and some cash and just do this

    Annealing Brass in HD - YouTube

    Or This

    Annealing/It's not all that complicated - YouTube

    Or you could go High Tech and buy or build one of these.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iy6OwiuWV7A

    Cheers
    Pete
    Last edited by P38; 30-03-2013 at 04:44 PM.

  4. #4
    AB Precision
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    Quote Originally Posted by P38 View Post
    Or you could save your self all the bother and some cash and just do this

    Annealing Brass in HD - YouTube

    Or This

    Annealing/It's not all that complicated - YouTube

    Or you could go High Tech and buy or build one of these.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iy6OwiuWV7A

    Cheers
    Pete
    Because why you can do it yourself they will be all inconsistent so may as well not even do it. Unless you have odd ball cals that you have to fire form or form in forming dies its not worth the effort. I'm most cases the case will be stuffed before then or the price of new brass makes it pointless just get new stuff

    Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

  5. #5
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    Hell its not hard as P38 says, i use a 1/4 adapter with a 10mm 1/4" deep socket. ( or whatever fits your case) and put in the drill chuck, then rotate while being heated with a propane torch

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tussock View Post
    Lots of reasons to do it. It is a good idea and it will extend your brass life.

    The characteristics of your case will change throughout its life span, but that could be mitigated by annealing.
    I know that I was meaning there is no half arsed way. Either do it right all timed the same or don't do it all all. Neck tension will be all different from case to case by hand so may as well not bother. . . . . Is easier way to put it

    Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk 2

  7. #7
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    yeah i agree with tuiman, the methods ive seem dont seem very scientific, which doesnt seem to go hand in hand with the whole point of reloading, to be precise and measured about everything. But it obviously works for people so meh

  8. #8
    Fulla
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    i was thinking of one of the expensive machines that do it all in a professional manner.
    i had a feeling dead eye dick had one. but maybe they just sold the machine once, i dont know.

  9. #9
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    Just need to know your colours? And control heat and time? Experience

  10. #10
    P38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maca49 View Post
    Just need to know your colours? And control heat and time? Experience
    Your onto it Maca.

    Your eye is your best tool, watching the colours run and counting to four still works for me.

    Tui_man2
    Does your new brasscome with the Neck/Shoulder already annealed?

    I would be interested to know how much inconsistency you have experienced or measured using any of the above methods.

    Here's another method which is precise, confirmed with Tempilaq.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3Ln5ZdCyz8

    And pretty simple too.

    Cheers
    Pete
    Last edited by P38; 31-03-2013 at 09:51 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by P38 View Post
    Your onto it Maca.

    Your eye is your best tool, watching the colours run and counting to four still works for me.

    Tui_man2
    Does your new brasscome with the Neck/Shoulder already annealed?

    I would be interested to know how much inconsistency you have experienced or measured using any of the above methods.

    Here's another method which is precise, confirmed with Tempilaq.
    brass annealing machine.mpg - YouTube

    And pretty simple too.

    Cheers
    Pete
    Still has error but if not shooting far then it wont matter anyway.

    Lapua is as good as it gets an it comes annealed ready to load
    Doing it by had is to hit an miss

    I have made an are making 4 machines like my one but smaller an nice, i do think it is good to do but have to do it right an all timed the same, an for bigger odd ball cases i have to anneal in the forming stages to work the brass easier

    then once all that effort it done i try to keep them good an anneal every 3rd firing to get them all the SAME consistancy.
    Found by hand i would have un explained fliers witch LR you dont want.

    There are a few machines out there that people would happy pay to do your brass, I would do it but its the sort of thing i would wait till i had a few to make it worth while to do

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tussock View Post
    I'm inclined to think that annealing by a slow bake rather than a blowtorch will work better.

    Your trying to remove defects, any uneven heat distributions will create new defects in the form of grain size contrasts in your neck and shoulder which will lead to at best, uneven stretch and at worst failure.
    So you would rather anneal the whole case? That's why you don't need to do it. Or all your brass will be going to the scrap man:rolleyes:

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  13. #13
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    No annealing slowly is bad. You want to only heat the neck and small surrounding area. The more of the case you heat , the softer the rest of the case will get and you dont want the base getting too soft. If you look at lapua brass and how much they are annealed that would be a good guide.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tussock View Post
    You need to protect the rest of the case from the heat, in a bath with cooling liquid.

    Annealing slowly is fine. Believe it or not, cases anneal at room temperature. Just very very slowly. Work hardening is a process where the metal is deformed, and defects accumulate in its crystal structure. In order for metal to stretch smoothly, it needs a nice, homogenous crystal structure, where each atom can slide past the adjacent atoms unimpeded. The defects from deformation (work) created gaps etc where that impede that smooth slide. These correct themselves over time, as the brass goes back to its preferred structure, but its very slow.

    You can speed up that healing process by heating the metal up. This opens up the crystal structure and lets everything relax back to where it wants to be faster. Fast or slow, the end result is the same. No more defects, and soft, homogenous metal. 5 seconds at 500 degrees or 5 minutes at 150 degrees, same result (I made those numbers up but you get the idea).

    Because it would be more even, my preference would be slow annealing in an even heat, like an oven. Then there is no hot spot like with a blow torch.

    The you just have to keep the lower part of the case cool. For that you can use a water bath.

    I have not done it, but it should do a good job.
    Not sure you are correct on annealing all the case including the web and over a long time. There is a report on this and I will try to locate it again.

  15. #15
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    Sorry forgot to include link

    http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
    steven likes this.

 

 

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