im just wondering if there is an anealing service in new zealand.
as in send your brass and money in, and get your brass anealed back. ?
im just wondering if there is an anealing service in new zealand.
as in send your brass and money in, and get your brass anealed back. ?
Yea that would be an awesome service
Rule 5: Check your firing zone
Or you could save your self all the bother and some cash and just do this
Annealing Brass in HD - YouTube
Or This
Annealing/It's not all that complicated - YouTube
Or you could go High Tech and buy or build one of these.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iy6OwiuWV7A
Cheers
Pete
Last edited by P38; 30-03-2013 at 04:44 PM.
Because why you can do it yourself they will be all inconsistent so may as well not even do it. Unless you have odd ball cals that you have to fire form or form in forming dies its not worth the effort. I'm most cases the case will be stuffed before then or the price of new brass makes it pointless just get new stuff
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Hell its not hard as P38 says, i use a 1/4 adapter with a 10mm 1/4" deep socket. ( or whatever fits your case) and put in the drill chuck, then rotate while being heated with a propane torch
I know that I was meaning there is no half arsed way. Either do it right all timed the same or don't do it all all. Neck tension will be all different from case to case by hand so may as well not bother. . . . . Is easier way to put it
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yeah i agree with tuiman, the methods ive seem dont seem very scientific, which doesnt seem to go hand in hand with the whole point of reloading, to be precise and measured about everything. But it obviously works for people so meh
i was thinking of one of the expensive machines that do it all in a professional manner.
i had a feeling dead eye dick had one. but maybe they just sold the machine once, i dont know.
Just need to know your colours? And control heat and time? Experience
Your onto it Maca.
Your eye is your best tool, watching the colours run and counting to four still works for me.
Tui_man2
Does your new brasscome with the Neck/Shoulder already annealed?
I would be interested to know how much inconsistency you have experienced or measured using any of the above methods.
Here's another method which is precise, confirmed with Tempilaq.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3Ln5ZdCyz8
And pretty simple too.
Cheers
Pete
Last edited by P38; 31-03-2013 at 09:51 AM.
Still has error but if not shooting far then it wont matter anyway.
Lapua is as good as it gets an it comes annealed ready to load
Doing it by had is to hit an miss
I have made an are making 4 machines like my one but smaller an nice, i do think it is good to do but have to do it right an all timed the same, an for bigger odd ball cases i have to anneal in the forming stages to work the brass easier
then once all that effort it done i try to keep them good an anneal every 3rd firing to get them all the SAME consistancy.
Found by hand i would have un explained fliers witch LR you dont want.
There are a few machines out there that people would happy pay to do your brass, I would do it but its the sort of thing i would wait till i had a few to make it worth while to do
No annealing slowly is bad. You want to only heat the neck and small surrounding area. The more of the case you heat , the softer the rest of the case will get and you dont want the base getting too soft. If you look at lapua brass and how much they are annealed that would be a good guide.
Sorry forgot to include link
http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
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