All electronic parts including the pan came from AliexpressQuote:
Originally Posted by steven
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-inc...451318400_6150
Cheers
Pete
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All electronic parts including the pan came from AliexpressQuote:
Originally Posted by steven
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-inc...451318400_6150
Cheers
Pete
Alternative cake tin mold,
NEW Round Cake Fondant Decorating Mold sugarcraft Tins Pan Bakeware Tools mold | eBay
I'm all thumbs but I still managed to get a working annealer up and running using only youtube as a guide. There's plenty of advice around on how to make these.
One tip i'll add for free, if you're using a std blue bottle butane torch then 8 seconds in the flame should be plenty. its just on the border of not being hot enough so you only need to make sure you don't let them glow in daylight.
Depends on brass thickness due to caliber of course.
What cal are you annealing for 8 secs?
Any pics of the finished annealer?
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RELOADERS, WORKSHOP INNOVATIONS online , THE GEAR LOCKER online , RUSTY DOG OUTDOORS , OUTDOORSMAN HEADQUARTERS,
I'm only proud of the fact it works. An honest mate told me it looked 'agricultural' haha. Its for a 6.5x55 but I don't see why it would matter what cal as the wall thickness would determine the time in the flame? I dunno but I just tested it on crap brass and timed it till I had it working right. Had heaps of fun making itQuote:
Originally Posted by R93
https://youtu.be/wMAfTUu0nX4
Awesome.
Who cares what it looks like if it works. Cheers for the vid.
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@Dead is better
Good work that man :thumbsup:
Cheers
Pete
Neat, it works, I like the shaft - bowl mounting idea I was trying to figure out how to do it myself. I am still waiting on parts, the 2 bowls came yesterday, (working on the principle I'll f**k one up) but none of the electronics and motors as yet :(
The thing is a commercial unit is $600+ and for something that will be used a few times a year is just unaffordable. So far Ive spent < $50. :D
yeah, how many bags of federal brass and 4x reloads can you buy for 600 dollars?
I'm going to be really lazy and make two on the same frame (one each side) for 223 on one side and 08/06/magnum cases on the other. Make it on a tilt base to let gravity hold the brass in place on whichever side I'm working on. Toothed belt drive and one motor/drive controller to drive the lot. Plug in a 12V 2A plug pack for on/off. When you spin it round and tilt it back the work flow will simply switches left right direction.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dead is better
Doesn't the diameter of the wheel holding the brass in the flame also have a factor in the time in the flame?
More the speed of rotation of the wheel. The diameter more controls the speed of rotation of the brass in the flame for one wheel rotation for any given motor speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by scottrods
I strongly suggest Federal is not suitable for reloading. That stuff will have you putting inexplicable dents in the necks, rounds that the bolt won't close on. As early as the 3rd firing. I promised myself to never even think about reloading that brand again. For one off firing it is up there with target ammo imo
I have realoaded fed heaps of times. Cant count buy the stamps in the case head[emoji106]
Its fine. Just soft in the head.
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It may not be Lapua quality but there's nothing wrong with FC for standard use.
Sure it's not been over-annealed?
I actually prefer Federal brass over Lapua brass.
Mostly because the federal runs great in my BRNO but I've had issues closing the bolt on Lapua brass.
Cheers
Pete
The main advantage of lapua in cals I have used it in ius the abillity to run higher presures.
But then i am no loading expert.
Or spelling expert.
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Yous fallaz dont even need the sweet gearz to get u some anealings bey
Heres the tools of the trade, a drill, suitably sized socket and a gas torch of some sort
i dont time it but i have done a shitload of it this way so kinda know what to look for when you put the torch on it
some 45 cases of different calibres that ive just finished annealing, nek step is ultrasonic cleaner
Attachment 45282Attachment 45283Attachment 45284
In the reloading world annealing plays a big part in preparing your cases for the next shoot. Unless you have deep pockets and buy new cases every 10 times you have used your cases. Some cases will last a little longer. The supply of brass is getting more expensive in calibers that make sense on target ranges or for the person who just like shooting in general.
To ease the cost of your shooting annealing makes absolutely sense. The down side of annealing is its very time consuming if you doing it by hand and unfortunately its inconsistent.
A well timed annealing process will be a better way to get the consistency you need to get the ultimate accuracy and life out of your cases
Consistency = Accuracy Time = Money.
And that is exactly the major failing with "automated" annealing machines... The duration depends on a variety of factors - flame heat, wall thickness etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Breyt
It would be an interesting experiment to compare the results of an automated machine vs a skilled person gauging colour change etc, especially on brass that has not been neck turned. In my experience doing annealling by hand (cordless drill and deep socket) is fairly quick and easy.
But really how much xtra life are you getting?? Say a bag of brass costs lets say $200 for 100 rnds, therefore $2 each and after using them 10 times without annealing that works out to 20cents, is that such a bad thing. Seams a whole lot if work for little fain.
Ok so I can see the target shooters rolling their eyes already, but I am a hunter and max distance for me is 500-600m, it's s whole lot of time and pain that could be better used filling the freezer. Which is full BTW
Just my 10cents
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I just shoot targets now (too decrepit to hunt any more) and I did not roll my eyes when I read your post. For your situation, what you have outlined makes 100% sense. Annealing for target shooting and annealing for hunting loads are 2 different animals. For hunting loads there is benefit in annealing to stop necks splitting after many re-loads and to squeeze more life out of them (at which point the primer pockets may be getting a bit tired at any rate) whereas for target shooting cases are annealed every loading to maintain neck tension consistency. But like you say, for hunting purposes, after multiple loadings you are probably better to throw them and buy new.Quote:
Originally Posted by HNTMAD
Hamish, extended brass life is a side-benefit for me. The primary reason I do it is to get consistent neck tension. But I shoot a LOT and get thru my brass reasonably quickly. After about 4-5 firings I can start to feel a difference in the force required to seat projectiles. It's a bit hard to explain, but I do seating by feel - my brass is extremely carefully turned and prepped. K&N make a great little arbor press with a force gauge on it - very high on my wish list. That would be a lot more scientific way of measuring when the necks become case hardened.
You mean work hardened ;)
Secrets of the Houston WarehouseQuote:
Originally Posted by ebf
Suggesting neck tension is actually pretty important, more important than generally accepted, maybe a lot more.
"Virgil continued: “You can change the powder charge slightly, and it won’t really make any difference, but if you change the bullet seating depth or the grip on the bullet, you’re going to see bad things happen fast.”"
In terms of hand v machine, generally I think its quite amazing how a person can train themselves to beat machines/tools. On that front it seems you need to be hand seating and not buying a fancy K&N tool. :p
Where do you buy templiue?... (yeah poor spelling, but the heat changing paint) seems the only a curate way.... at least for me.
Don't know where in NZ you can get a good deal. Only found 2 outfits - one selling a temperature used in the laminates industry, and the other who had 750 but wanted huge money for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bully
I got mine here Liquid Temperature Lacquers
Cannot remember if I got it sent direct or via YouShop. I think it was YouShop and surprisingly, back then, they didn't have an issue handling it.
It is available on Amazon - will not send to NZ, and Ebay - hugely expensive to ship.
Going back to YouShop, I think I sent them the link and was surprised that they were OK with it.
You need to get 2 temperatures and the thinner. I really thought the thinner would get the thumbs down.
It is listed as non hazardous though but the way YouShop operates.....
I anneal my 25-20wcf cases mostly because there is no more available.
I hunted all over NZ and Oz and believe I bought up the entire stocks of both countries.
I anneal my other cases because I can.
Although I'm finding I'm becoming increasingly time poor, I'm also not too concerned about the time taken to anneal or do any reloading process for that matter as any time spent in my shed is time well spent.
Cheers
Pete
You are spot on with your findings regarding variety's. However using automated machine you don't have to skilled. After you did the settings for that case ( Case length to the burner because only the neck needs to be annealed ) and using tempulaq to get the right burning time you set the timer accordingly. Lapua cases takes approx 10 secQuote:
Originally Posted by ebf
The machine will burn each case for the same time duration at the same distance from the flame annealing each case the same
We did this a few years back and the machine didn't fail using a timer and the same burning point each time, a very skilled person did not had the same results doing it by hand..Quote:
Originally Posted by ebf
Breyt, I think you misunderstand what I said. Each case IS slightly different - so having a consistent amount of time in the flame is exactly what I do not like about machines... Let's face it, brass cases are extruded from material that is not exactly consistent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Breyt
If you have a bunch of cases that have all been neck turned extremely carefully, a machine may well get reasonably close. Take those same cases on a different day and run the machine with the same settings and you could be cooking your brass... So to be safe, each time you use the machine you need to tune the timing cycle using tempilaq or something similar.
How does the machine vari day by day? that sounds like a human trait.Quote:
Originally Posted by ebf
For exactly the same reasons why the same batch of ammo performs differently on different days.Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
Atmospherics will affect the flame temp. Change out the bottle of gas, and the flame temp may change. Open the tap on the gas bottle just a bit differently, and the flame temp could change. Have a breeze running through your workshop, the flame temp may change. Big enough to make a difference ? You tell me.
The thing is that you use the same "skill" to set up the machine as you use to look for temp changes on the case when doing it by hand. Machines are often marketed as requiring less skill, and IMHO that is incorrect.
Id back the machine for consistency everytime.
Recently did a reasonable run of 308W. ADI and CAC brass. Set up using high and low temperature tempilaq. My annealer runs 2 torches and a 308 case takes ~ 4 1/4 secs. I needed to change the timer by 1/4 of a second when changing from ADI to CAC to get the correct tempilaq indications. Would an eyeometer be good enough to detect that? Mmmmm.Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
Where do you get your tempilaq from Zimmer ?
You say there maybe inconsistency with no machine, most likely. but how long does it take for you to register the temilaq paint is up to temp and stop the timer?more to the point you need to know why case annealing is effective and in yoyr personal situation whether its beneficial to the reloading process yiu use. Can any of you tell what a work hardened case feels like going thru the die?
ive annealed some 500 cases or more of various calibre and never had an issue with overheated brass, I have the tools although a crude method is the outlay of such machines worth the 5 % ( random figure) benefit in utmost consistency?... and as ebf pointed out unless each and every case is dimensionally the same then this might as well be a 308 vs 708 discussion
Heh @ebf post #69 :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by ebf
i have to disagree with your statement! Doing it by hand has a far beter change cooking your cases than a machine. Its like building a car by hand it takes ages and you make far more mistakes that the machine ever can unless your set up was wrong; You don't need any skills to set up Auto annealing MachineQuote:
Originally Posted by ebf
If you need constant accuracy you need to anneal those cases every 1-2 shotsQuote:
Originally Posted by ebf
