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Thread: Any one seating bullets using a graphite powder?

  1. #1
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    Any one seating bullets using a graphite powder?

    Have some redding imperial dry neck lube and was thinking about using it for seating bullets to stop dry welding and maybe other benefits. Just wanting to know if anyone else is using it or a alternative product.

  2. #2
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    I use it for that purpose constantly

    The dry welding you mention is called Galvanic Corrosion

    Ammo made and stored for a long time increases in pressure and velocity as galvanic corrosion advances
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  3. #3
    Member BRADS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7mmsaum View Post
    I use it for that purpose constantly

    The dry welding you mention is called Galvanic Corrosion

    Ammo made and stored for a long time increases in pressure and velocity as galvanic corrosion advances
    I also use it because moons ago 7mmsaum got me onto it.
    Much easier than other methods

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  4. #4
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    Yup.

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  5. #5
    Unapologetic gun slut dannyb's Avatar
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    I made a thing for cleaning and lubing case mouths after chamfering, basically a small pill bottle (think old film canister type size),
    green scotchbrite in the bottpm and some stainless shot from a shotgun cartridge then added some graphite powder.
    you put your chamfered case mouth in and twist it into the scotchbrite the steel shot holds the graphite powder and stops it from settling under the scotchbrite also kind of forces it to make contact with the case mouth.
    I haven't tried it yet but anyone got any opinions why this would or wouldn't work.
    I'll upload a pic later when I get home from work.
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  6. #6
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    Yes, use powdered graphite for the above reasons.....

  7. #7
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    In general I load ammo a couple of days b4 I intend firing it. I have no old ammo so no pone tial for sticking. I did however dig out some 10 year old 223 reloads recently and fire those. Velocities and accuracy were as per expected.

    I have experimented with lubing either the inside of the neck or the projectile bearing surface. This mainly came about due to what ultrasonic cleaning (long since scrapped) did to the inside of the case necks. I experienced very erratic seating pressures as measured on my K&M press. Once fired and the residual coating inside the neck was re established seating went back to normal.

    I used the graphite and shot method. Also experimented with making a solution of moly and isopropyl alcohol and painting that inside the neck.

    Since stopping ultrasonic cleaning I have also stopped lubing. I will however have further plays. AMP with the development of their hydraulic seating press have been doing some work on lubing. Will catch up with them at some stage.

    Some top shooters ie Yank F Class are anal about projectiles sticking in necks. They seat long and then reseat to correct depth the night b4 their matches. Although this is not just about sticking it is also to compensate for throat wear over long running matches.
    A mate started doing the same technique and said on some rounds when reseating there was a noticeable "click" when moving the projectile. I don't think this was welding though as the ammo just wasn't old enough.
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  8. #8
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    Yes when sizing. Lube on the case, dip neck into graphite media with a twist then full size.
    Even after trimming, neck prep and cleaning there is still graphite in the neck to help with consistent neck tension.

  9. #9
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    I have some of this and use it when neck sizing.

    For the purposes you guys are talking about are you re applying prior to seating projectiles and then wiping off the outside of the neck afterwards?
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  10. #10
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    I do. Just dip the base of the projectile into the lube and then seat it. Graphite changes with humidity. When it's very dry it doesn't stick to the projectiles very well but when humidity is high it stick very well from what I see.. if you are going to dip the mouths don't over clean them or it won't stick as they will be to smooth. I find just dipping the projectiles as I load them less messy.

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  11. #11
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    Before sizing I use a nylon bore brush dipped in graphite powder and scrub the inside of the neck. Then I hold the cartidge case upside down and tap it a couple of times on the bench to get rid of any loose graphite and carbon. Then neck or fully resize, prime powder and seat bullet. I don' t own or use a case cleaning tumbler. Results have been ok over decades, so far.
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  12. #12
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyb View Post
    I made a thing for cleaning and lubing case mouths after chamfering, basically a small pill bottle (think old film canister type size),
    green scotchbrite in the bottpm and some stainless shot from a shotgun cartridge then added some graphite powder.
    you put your chamfered case mouth in and twist it into the scotchbrite the steel shot holds the graphite powder and stops it from settling under the scotchbrite also kind of forces it to make contact with the case mouth.
    I haven't tried it yet but anyone got any opinions why this would or wouldn't work.
    I'll upload a pic later when I get home from work.
    I have small plastic jar with some 7.5 steel shot in it...added graphite powder...tip some into lid and DIP case neck in to about half depth of neck....works a treat.
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  13. #13
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    I dont bother whiping it off any more than the quick whipe to remove all other lube...

  14. #14
    Unapologetic gun slut dannyb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    I have small plastic jar with some 7.5 steel shot in it...added graphite powder...tip some into lid and DIP case neck in to about half depth of neck....works a treat.
    Here's my one, I haven't tried it yet. I wonder if I should remove some of the shot ?

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  15. #15
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    yeah or tip into lid as the powder will settle to bottom and you wont reach it...no trouble to puff a little more powder onto lid half full of shot.

 

 

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