Have some redding imperial dry neck lube and was thinking about using it for seating bullets to stop dry welding and maybe other benefits. Just wanting to know if anyone else is using it or a alternative product.
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Have some redding imperial dry neck lube and was thinking about using it for seating bullets to stop dry welding and maybe other benefits. Just wanting to know if anyone else is using it or a alternative product.
I use it for that purpose constantly
The dry welding you mention is called Galvanic Corrosion
Ammo made and stored for a long time increases in pressure and velocity as galvanic corrosion advances
I also use it because moons ago 7mmsaum got me onto it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mmsaum
Much easier than other methods
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Yup.
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I made a thing for cleaning and lubing case mouths after chamfering, basically a small pill bottle (think old film canister type size),
green scotchbrite in the bottpm and some stainless shot from a shotgun cartridge then added some graphite powder.
you put your chamfered case mouth in and twist it into the scotchbrite the steel shot holds the graphite powder and stops it from settling under the scotchbrite also kind of forces it to make contact with the case mouth.
I haven't tried it yet but anyone got any opinions why this would or wouldn't work.
I'll upload a pic later when I get home from work.
Yes, use powdered graphite for the above reasons.....
In general I load ammo a couple of days b4 I intend firing it. I have no old ammo so no pone tial for sticking. I did however dig out some 10 year old 223 reloads recently and fire those. Velocities and accuracy were as per expected.
I have experimented with lubing either the inside of the neck or the projectile bearing surface. This mainly came about due to what ultrasonic cleaning (long since scrapped) did to the inside of the case necks. I experienced very erratic seating pressures as measured on my K&M press. Once fired and the residual coating inside the neck was re established seating went back to normal.
I used the graphite and shot method. Also experimented with making a solution of moly and isopropyl alcohol and painting that inside the neck.
Since stopping ultrasonic cleaning I have also stopped lubing. I will however have further plays. AMP with the development of their hydraulic seating press have been doing some work on lubing. Will catch up with them at some stage.
Some top shooters ie Yank F Class are anal about projectiles sticking in necks. They seat long and then reseat to correct depth the night b4 their matches. Although this is not just about sticking it is also to compensate for throat wear over long running matches.
A mate started doing the same technique and said on some rounds when reseating there was a noticeable "click" when moving the projectile. I don't think this was welding though as the ammo just wasn't old enough.
Yes when sizing. Lube on the case, dip neck into graphite media with a twist then full size.
Even after trimming, neck prep and cleaning there is still graphite in the neck to help with consistent neck tension.
I have some of this and use it when neck sizing.
For the purposes you guys are talking about are you re applying prior to seating projectiles and then wiping off the outside of the neck afterwards?
I do. Just dip the base of the projectile into the lube and then seat it. Graphite changes with humidity. When it's very dry it doesn't stick to the projectiles very well but when humidity is high it stick very well from what I see.. if you are going to dip the mouths don't over clean them or it won't stick as they will be to smooth. I find just dipping the projectiles as I load them less messy.
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Before sizing I use a nylon bore brush dipped in graphite powder and scrub the inside of the neck. Then I hold the cartidge case upside down and tap it a couple of times on the bench to get rid of any loose graphite and carbon. Then neck or fully resize, prime powder and seat bullet. I don' t own or use a case cleaning tumbler. Results have been ok over decades, so far.
I have small plastic jar with some 7.5 steel shot in it...added graphite powder...tip some into lid and DIP case neck in to about half depth of neck....works a treat.Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyb
I dont bother whiping it off any more than the quick whipe to remove all other lube...
Here's my one, I haven't tried it yet. I wonder if I should remove some of the shot ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Attachment 156178
Attachment 156179
yeah or tip into lid as the powder will settle to bottom and you wont reach it...no trouble to puff a little more powder onto lid half full of shot.
Where do you all source the graphite?
Cheers for the feed back, What is your application method? That does make sense. I assume you havn't had any negative effects.?Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mmsaum
I have heard that the ultra sonic can can away some of that good carbon on the inside of the neck. That amp press is very impressive, for those of us that was fund limited a arbor press with a gauge is sufficient. I have watched some f class reloading stuff on youtube and they are are on another level when it comes to precision. i have noticed that click when reseating projectiles.Quote:
Originally Posted by zimmer
Also interested... would pencil lead be any different? I’m an architect and have a fancy pencil sharpener that is always full of fine graphite from my 2mm mechanical pencil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Jack
Hardware store or any engineering supply store would have it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Jack
ANY ENGINEERING shop will stock it...my pottle was given to me some 25 years ago to freeup sticky door lock...still over half full.
Cheers for the reply seams to be a logical time to apply to the projectile it if you have sized with a different material. ie lanolin based ect.Quote:
Originally Posted by r87mm
Just dont use hornady 1shot for this. I've got footage of spooky white tracer smoke going a full 100m out of my muzzle on every shot. Attachment 156417
Yeah I do. I have a small pottle that I dip the projectile into, tap it against the side and then place it into the case. Works like a charm and doesn’t make too much of a mess
I thought the Imperial dry neck lube was for sizing.
It lets the expander button slide up out of the neck with less friction.
I suppose it could lubricate seating the bullet a bit.
I apply it to the inside of the neck with a cleaning brush and that helps remove extraneous carbon, grass and grit before sizing.
I use a device with the brush pointing up and its mounted in a container with the neck lube floating round inside.
Every third round I give it a shake to deposit a bit more powder on the brush. The pic shows a commercial bought one I use now but I used a home made one for many years and it was fine.
Attachment 157360
You can see a bit of graphite gets engrained into the reloading bench over the years.
The outside of the case has the goobly oily sizing wax on it and the inside of the case is dry with powder only in the neck. I wouldn't want to get the liquid greasy stuff inside where the gunpowder is. I do give it a tap on the bench before seating the primer in, to let excess graphite out. Also a tap base down to let flakes of brass out of the primer pocket after I've cleaned that out with the pocket cutter.
I brought some redding graphite off Swaro second hand and started dipping bullets in that havnt noticed any ill effects. Shot some rabbits at 400-450 with the 30 nosler after changing to graphite.
i dip my case necks in graphite for neck sizing so there could be some left inside the neck when i seat bullets
I use a cotton bud dipped in the graphite and tapped on the side of the jar. Twirl it around inside the neck after it has been filled with powder. Otherwise the powder filling process will erode it down into the case, ( just my thoughts).
