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What primers are people using in their 223 loads for AR15?
Had heap of problems yesterday with no bang action on my reloads, using Federal small rifle primers. Factory ammo of numerous makes worked fine, has to be primers.
I do note that I seen Federal make a specific Ar15 primer so I guess that tells the story there.
Options-CCI, Murom or the Federal Ar15?
I have used thousands of reloads through the ar using fed primers without a problem..
+1 & all Fed primers with very very few fail to fire.... ?Quote:
Originally Posted by nzvermin
May not be the primers, maybe your reloads ?
Your brass too short for your chamber ?
I've had 8 primer failures in 7 years, all of them Fed, mix of small (mostly) and large.
Half of them and those all being AR loads can be put down to loose primer pockets.
The rest bar one are down to reusing a primer after pulling the projectile with a kinetic hammer.
So 1 real failure from thousands of rounds.
Zero failures from Murom, CCI or Winchester.
Never had a primer failure in .223 or 300aac. Used Feds and CCI. Might pay to check your firing pin protrusion.
Ok thanks,Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg
That never occurred to me, so some over-trimmed brass? Hammer striking and case having movement=not enough force to detonate.
This might actually make sense as think it was just doing it in my 5.56 Daniel defense but don't think such a problem in Rock River 223 Wylde chamber.
Using trim length from ADI book, what length would you suggest?
Yes, always loved Federal stuff as always Mr reliable
Yeah, but if firing pin has worked fine on numerous other brands with no problems why would it be that? In saying that you are probably not wrong but for a different reason that the case is too short.Quote:
Originally Posted by 300CALMAN
Have a feeling I was sitting in front of TV with Drill and trimmer a while back and have slightly over trimmed some brass as Greg has pointed out.
If anything other than dud primers probably over sized brass making loose head space or proud primers. Only primer failures I have had were Murom SR. Won't ignite ball powder without hang firing. I use CCI 450 and have never had an issue with them in multiple 5.56 uppers and an .300 blk
Primers were'n t proud, ok so over sizing knocking shoulder back too far creating too much headspace....had a jammed case a while back and real mission to get out, may not have set up properly and lack of quality control in need for mass AR ammo production.....
Get a case gauge. Nothing worse than loading a big batch lf ammo that won't feed.
Biffed the dud ammo in disgust with a big long biff, bit silly in hindsight as making assumption it was primers.
Could chamber check now and pick it up exact cause, ahh lessons learnt!
Yep, have a case gauge. Just laziness and something along the lines "assumption is the mother of all fuck-ups".
When trying to mass produce ammo for semis and pistol you often cut a few corners which is fine until there is a problem in the process and not checking often enough the finer detail....
Given that the reccomendation for AR's is to use small base dies and full length size everything I would be heasant to not fully size your cases and fail to see how you could have oversized the cases. Trim length won't matter as it's the shoulder that determins how far into the chamber it goes not the trim length.
Whatever you do don't change to Federal AR primers as they are harder than standard so more likely to hangfire.
The first thing I would look at is your trigger \ hammer spring as I changed to a tinmey trigger and now have light hammer strikes leading to misfires...
Yup, it's a hard lesson to learn, just make sure you only need to learn it once ;)
I've used Muron primers for a few years, 100% success rate in AR & 3 x bolt rifles, Federal for pistol after failures with Fiocchi and now everything works just fine and dandy.
What is a small base die? Skinnier at base for sizing? No problems feeding.Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveAttack
No hangfires, looked like a nice strike on primer. Yes a weaker hammer spring wouldn't help but was firing off Geco, Hornady, factory no problem so the main problem still has to be in my ammo manufacture.
Think might stem back to swapping out dies in a tool head and and not setting back up properly in a rush and had stuck case, not enough attention to detail.
Have a .223 chamber gauge, should I also get a 5.56?
Spare barrel of same would be handy to drop check..
I thought .223 v 5.56 differences are with pressure/case thickness and throat distance, so I wouldn't bother with a gauge.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackson21
Ok,Quote:
Originally Posted by dogmatix
So no difference in case apart from thickness and pressure and you can seat bullet out further in 5,56 so case gauge essentially the same
Yes, smaller at the base as the name implies.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackson21
Special Small Base Body, Full Length & Type- - Redding Reloading Equipment: reloading equipment for rifles, handguns, pistols, revolvers and SAECO bullet casting equipment
Don't get too comfortable as feeding issues normally come when you least want them i.e. 500 rounds into your best day rabbit shooting ever. All the AR primers that didn't fire with my timney had what looked like a good what on them. When the round fires it flattens out the primer again so the dent on a misfire always looks deeper than the dent on a fired case.
What brand is the trigger \ hammer spring? A milspec one should be set up for milspec primers which are harder than normal.
RockRiver 2 stage, one of their better ones in a Fred Eichler lower. Guessing around a 3lb break, quite a nice trigger that's why I don't really want to fuck with it if that's not the problem. I do have spare springs lying around, probably Milspec not sure where from, probably doesn't hurt to drop them in and get a bit more strike and see if much difference to trigger.
I'v never had light strikes across 3x RRA triggers
Not sure if thats a mil spec two peice trigger or a drop in unit but one thing I realised in my Tinmey trigger experiance is nothing comes for free. To get a nice clean 3lb break they can't use a big heavy hammer spring as it increases the friction between the sears and therefore the trigger weight. If you have spares then drop in either a new hammer spring (if two peice) or a new trigger (if one peice drop in) and see if that makes a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackson21
As these things are notoriously hard to reproduce when you want to I would load up 100 rounds of ammo with the AR mil spec primers. Fire half with the old trigger and then swap it out for the new one and fire the other 50.
Personally I can live with misfires on the AR primers if the normal ones work reliably and the trigger is nice. Nothing comes for free in this world.
Yes, understand what you are saying. I've modified Milspec triggers before and this is one of the things you do to lighten.
I had a Timney trigger (never a Tinmey :P) also which worked 100% of the time on normal .223 and 300aac BUT will not light Russian/Chinese 7.62 primers. The only thing that gets round this "nothing for free" issue seems to be the Hyperfire trigger which uses different springs.
Ahhh didn't throw them all away, found one of suspects in my ammo tin. Put in Lyman chamber gauge, dimensions look ok to me?
Suspect it maybe something to do with primer pockets, primer looks just a fraction proud. Kids are always begging to help, and suspect some of pockets might not had the full treatment....Attachment 52560Attachment 52561Attachment 52562Attachment 52563
Any thoughts?
I use fed205MAR only done 1000rounds so far no duds, but I do look at them in the hand primer feed tray, if any dont look like the rest I bin them (like sometimes one or two dont look as as evenly green as the rest). The round in the case gauge looks OK to me from here or maybe slightly short at the projectile end? Looks like a good primer strike as well, doesnt look like the primer is/was proud from here.
No that looks like a good pin strike, Your primer even looks slightly proud. I have had much lighter strikes on primers that were at least a bit recessed an still had the round fire. I say suspect primer.
Must be a faulty primer with that dent in it.
I use cci small rifle primers #400.
Probably used 100K plus through pistols and 40-50K through rifles.
I cannot remember ever having one not going off.
Just as an aside, but the cases are bone dry on the inside when you prime and load ?
Well normally just corn media shine, but now that I think about it a while back I did experiment with some half-arsed home brew wet style(unsuccessfully) to try and get the heavy deposits the suppressor was leaving on the shoulder of case and media struggling to budge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kscott
The troublesome ammo was made approx 6-9 months ago so could have something to do with that and some moisture?
Shot off around 70 odd rounds today that I made yesterday, hand primed and didn't miss a beat!
