Hi guys just wondering what some 3006 Barnaul brass would be like for reloading anyone used them ? , thought I mite buy 100 rounds use & reload.
cheers.
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Hi guys just wondering what some 3006 Barnaul brass would be like for reloading anyone used them ? , thought I mite buy 100 rounds use & reload.
cheers.
It's probably steel cased berdan primed
Thanks for that guys im going to get some there a very good price 180 , rounds for $195 mite get 50/50 223 & 3006 see how they shoot.
The 304 140gr works really well in my brothers 308 and same in mne, the 30/06 works well in my one too, but I never had any luck with the 223. Not Barnauls fault though, my twist is 1:12 and it wont shoot anything over 52gr well. If I stay under that it is fantastic....but Barnaul makes 55 and 62 gr so not for me in 223...
I flew over Barnaul a few months back.
Now you know its not just shitty ammo,there is likely a shitty City there too!
Known for corrosive ammunition so much so that some shops refuse warranty if a rifle is used with the ammunition in question. If I were you I'd contact Belmont ammunition as their real good sorts and you avoid said corrosive ammunition
Barnaul is not a "corrosive " ammunition it is more of a budget / milsurp ammo , the projectiles are of a harder type of metal which dose cause the barrel to wear faster . But can have the compensation of ,sometimes , paying for the new barrel with the savings .
I think you both may want to dig a bit deeper. I use Barnaul myself and looked in depth at the product including taking some apart for projectiles. (wanted 180gr SP on a 7.62x39 case for a single shot rifle)
The cases are steel and coated. I think from memory they are burdan primed so difficult to reload on both counts. Non corrosive powder is used. It is not Mil surp though with the steel case I can understand being associated with it. It is proper sporting ammunition.
My understanding is they use a different alloy on the core for the bullets rather than lead and they still have a copper jacket, though they are able to make the jacket thinner as the core is more stable at high temperature than lead is. This has not seemed to affect my accuracy or reliability on impact. As for harder wear, well in all rifles I have ever owned, generally the core of any projectile does not come into contact with the barrel and the copper coating on the jacket is still on the bullet when I have retrieved them out of game so you should have no problem. I have put over 400 rounds through my 30/06 and it shoots as well as it ever has.......
I believe the alloy you are referring to is Tombac.
It's definitely corrosive. And as such your barrel needs the cleaning regime to go with it.
Pertaining to their projectiles, their a bi metal projectile so be careful. Any rifle that's for sale with a pack of it next to it I generally pass up as not correctly cleaned its barrel will be highly likely to be fucked
It is not corrosive.
Nah not corrosive, the 7.62x39 anyway.
It is definitely NOT corrosive. It is clearly stated in english on the box. It is Not Military Surplus. It is modern ammunition with modern propellants and primers. You dont have to use it if you dont want to, and you are fully allowed to be mis informed. But rather than garner info from the internet, we have dealt with russian ammo suppliers and know from experience that it is definitely NOT corrosive.
But I figure you read it somewhere on the net so it has to be true. At a quick guess, it would be a USA site that would consider it unpatriotic to acknowledge russians know how to make proper primers.. after all they have only been making guns for 300 years (T.O Z started making fire arms in 1712)
Any amo IS corrosive if you don't clean the barrel except maybe a chrome lined or nitrided bore. Seen some pretty nasty stainless barrels that were never cleaned.
Ive used a lot of barnaul 223 ammo and have reloaded with their projectiles. The ammo sold by Jim is not corrosive primed but the powder does burn quite dirty compared to hogdon or adi which can be messy in a gas impingment semi. The projectiles are gilding metal washed steel over a lead core. They are easy to pick up with a magnet! Steel jackets dont wear out barrels any faster than copper. In fact sintered iron driving bands on artillery shells give longer barrel life than do copper ones. Barnaul ammo seems to get bad reviews from some, certainly its not match grade but its as good as any bulk stuff like hornady training or american eagle for hunting or general plinking, and the price is hard to beat especially if you dont reload or are doing pest control with a black rifle.
http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/bras...el-cased-ammo/
^ Doesn't feature Barnaul but... FYI nonetheless.
In the end Barnaul is an adapted milsurp to sporting round which is cheap . The projectiles are on the hard side ,not much expansion but rip a decent hole , and can be rather dirty . For a cheap pest control / bush hunting it will work ,but nowhere as good as a "decent' round .
The case can be reloaded once or twice but the process etc does not make it worthwhile .
Especially when he gets to the end and also considers barrel price versus ammo price, His analogy allows for the savings made by using the cheaper ammo. It is worth cosidering the savings on the cheaper ammo is often more than enough to pay for the replacement barrel and have change.....
Especially here in NZ with such stupid ammo prices. If you were to do their maths at NZ prices it would be an even bigger gap. However I would probably not shoot this ammo out of a nice stainless barrel, considering it is generally softer than carbon steel but from a black rifle or SKS/AK it is definitely worth the cost saving especially if you don't reload.
If I use 308 as an example, and I will make the presumption that all are equal on accuracy. Barnaul is currently $105.15 per 100 rounds, Highland is $156 per 100 ($31 per 20) and Belmont's cheapest is $120 per 100. For the same test as the article if we cost out 5000 rounds at these prices we get
Barnaul $5257.50
Highland $7800.00
Belmont $6000.00
These prices would be lowered significantly by buying in bulk but I am trying to estimate the cost difference overall between them and after even just 5000 rounds between three of the cheapest brands of ammo the cost of a barrel (or even a complete firearm) is less than the overall difference of buying a dearer ammo. And as a final thought, If you can afford to blow $5k on ammo, go buy another rifle.........Because you can clearly afford it.