IPHY and there's a setting for that in most apps. Inch Per Hundred yards and use an elevation adjustment factor of 1.025
that sounds about right to me , because the z5 is described as 0.7cm per click at 100 metres, which would be 91mts/100 mts x 0.7cm per click for 100 yds . So the click value would equal about 0.63cm . the Duleys measurement is equal to 0.62 cm . in my measuring that would equal a blondie .
Yep all Swaro I’ve owned (Z3 & Z5 ) dial 0.975in at 100yds, or that damn close to that it does not matter. So you’d need to allow for scope dialing 0.975 rather than 1.05in in true moa. Obviously the further out you go the bigger the difference. Also consider that your measured muzzle velocity is derived from a Chrony, which like any measuring device has a level of precision or accuracy. It might be +\- 1-2% ? To validate your muzzle velocity you need to check drop at 600 or 700 yds, or further if possible. I doubt you’d see the difference at 400yd.
Greetings @LJPRMC,
I think we tend to over complicate things. I had just this need before I shot my first 600 yard shoot last year. I had the chronographed velocity for my load so just ran the trajectory using the Hornady on line software in 25 metre steps out to 600 metres, 600 yards is very close to 550 metres. Next I made a tall target with a NZDA 100 metre target taped on the bottom and the predicted 200 metre POI marked on it. The rifle was zeroed aiming at the bottom target with the shots falling on the upper mark. This was done on my home 200 metre range. The first shot at 600 yards was a 4 and the Target software validated my predicted velocity at that range.
I find the fascination with zeroing rifles at 100 yards or metres hard to understand. For bush hobbits this is likely fine but for rifles that will be used at longer ranges surely 200 metres would be a better option. My hunting rifles (regrettably hunting in name only these days) are zeroed at 200 metres or whatever range the MRT is 50mm or less. I see that your most often used range runs from 90 metres to a max of just over 350 metres. A base zero at 200 metres would extend your just shoot range considerably for a rifle in the 7mm Rem Mag class.
Regards Grandpamac.
An accurate zero is important if you aim to make first round hits on targets at longer ranges as frequently as possible.
Zeroing is simply having a clear understanding of where your point of impact is, in relation to your point of aim, and ensuring that it is satisfactory for your requirements.
Zeroing at 100m is easier to do accurately than 200m. Environmental factors causing noise in your data are less of an issue - aside from the logistical concerns of 200m range availability, etc.
Zeroing POI to be on POA at 100m, rather than some offset, is in my opinion preferable - A precise zero on POA at 100m doesn't prevent you from dialling up .5MIL when walking around to have a "PBR" for hunting practically.
It is important to be clear that there is a difference between zeroing AT 200m, vs zeroing FOR 200m.
One is completing the task of data collection at that range, the other is making a sight adjustment for POI/POA co-incidence at that range.
My advice is the black stag will have to walk this time.
By all means put up a paper plate where he comes out and give it a go.
You can use the jbm web site for a very good calculator. Call me paranoid but i see on phone ballistic apps as a security risk and try to choose my supplier thoughtfully.
If you are truing your app data at the actual shooting distance (+30% would be better as suggested) then there are several potentially significant pieces of data you need to record at the time if you want the app to predict successfully in slightly different conditions:
Range and slope
Air temp and ammo temp (could be the same if you’re careful)
Barometric pressure where you’re shooting ( station pressure)
Wind and direction
Changes in BC at different velocities (see Litz data if possible)
Less criti al are:
Humidity
Direction ( azimuth by compass) and latitude/longitude.
For a good explanation of these try and get a copy perhaps pdf of Brian Litz Applied Ballistics for Long Range Shooting.
You will need to let your barrel cool and get at least 5 shots per group, plus confirm stability from one session to another transported in case, cleaned and so on , the confirm your sight adjustments which you can do in a box test at 100 yd but of course you need 5 good shots at zero and plus 30cm.
For a Fallow you are looking for a stable zero and a solution on the day within < 0.1 mRad (6cm at 600m) to allow space for other variations that do accumulate. Sounds like you have the common sense and the gear to do it if you dont rush.
Thank you all for your input. your help has led me to the calculator i was after .
Here's an update: The rifle is a "light sporter" in 7mm PRC with a fluted barrel. Three rounds are enough to heat it up and cause shots to deviate. Therefore, cooling is essential (I use a battery-powered air mattress pump and garden hose). The rifle isn't PRS grade, but it consistently groups three rounds within 3/4 MOA (the fourth could land anywhere).
Realistically, I'm aiming for a single bullet to hit within a 30 cm diameter circle at 600 meters. In today's test, I managed to place two rounds within a 100 mm circle at 368 meters (400 yards). I saved the third round for a single shot at a tall target, then adjusted by 51 clicks to hit a 600-meter target. The last round struck 60.5 cm above the 368-meter aim point.
The round traveled downrange at 2955 ft/sec. The calculator predicted it should have hit 71.5 cm above the aim point to reach the 600-meter target. However, it hit at 60.5 cm. So, with only one round to consider, I'm 11 cm low, but I'm not reading too much into that. It's likely a result of various factors. After all, how likely would it be to hit exactly at the 71.5 cm mark?
Thank you all for your input. your help has led me to the calculator i was after .
Here's an update: The rifle is a "light sporter" in 7mm PRC with a fluted barrel. Three rounds are enough to heat it up and cause shots to deviate. Therefore, cooling is essential (I use a battery-powered air mattress pump and garden hose). The rifle isn't PRS grade, but it consistently groups three rounds within 3/4 MOA (the fourth could land anywhere).
Realistically, I'm aiming for a single bullet to hit within a 30 cm diameter circle at 600 meters. In today's test, I managed to place two rounds within a 100 mm circle at 368 meters (400 yards). I saved the third round for a single shot at a tall target, then adjusted by 51 clicks to hit a 600-meter target. The last round struck 60.5 cm above the 368-meter aim point.
The round traveled downrange at 2955 ft/sec. The calculator predicted it should have hit 71.5 cm above the aim point to reach the 600-meter target. However, it hit at 60.5 cm. So, with only one round to consider, I'm 11 cm low, but I'm not reading too much into that. It's likely a result of various factors. After all, how likely would it be to hit exactly at the 71.5 cm mark?
The reason long range rifles are zero'd at 100m is to ensure that all your likely ranges will be holdover (not a mix of plus and minus). Not counting the first 25m or so.
FT airguns are setup in a similar way to avoid accidentally winding your scope the wrong way. They normally zero at 25m as their trajectory pretty much hits the line of sight and doesn't create 2 point blank moments.
I'm not sure that you're clear about what you're trying to achieve.
You seem to be wanting to confirm that the output of a ballistic calculator will allow you to hit a deer at 600m.
The approach you are taking doesn't really give you the ability to know this.
Confirmation that the ballistic calculator solution matches reality requires shooting enough shots on targets at long enough range for errors to be detectable and have confidence that the error is real and not random variation. The magnitude of any errors in the ballistic calc at 368m will be very small.
The current approach mainly gives you a poor test of the straightness and value of your scope clicks.
I get what your driving at completely.........
so the mathimatition inside me says...if your 51 clicks wasnt enough by say???1/6th if you add 1/6th amount of clicks you should in effect be correct now elevation wise.... IF that works you SHOULD in futre know that for EG instead of ten clicks you need to stick in 12....and try it
by doing so you remove any error in the dialing
75/15/10 black powder matters
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