Thread: Cast bullet help

The 174 is a hollow point the others are round nose.

Lots of helpful info on here.
After reading this thread I went out and bought a neck expander die, which has quartered the size of my groups (1.5in at 50 from 4-5in). I put it down to that I'm no longer sizing the projectile down by shaving some lead off when seating on sharper straight edges. May sound silly but others had told me it would be fine without flaring.

My load is Robertw1s (from trademe) 200grn subs, flash hole drilled out to 3.5mm, CCI magnum primers, 9.4grn of Trail Boss in a 16in barrel 308.

Haven't chronied them yet but at 9.6grn the odd one was still supersonic and will see how they go on some Taranaki goats this weekend.

Flaring the case mouth is important with cast bullets because if you shave any lead off the bullet when seating you will quite likely get gas cutting when you fire the cartridge as there will be room for gas to blast up the side of the lead bullet which will then result in leading & accuracy will suffer.
With subsonic loads I don't use gas checks & have no problems but when I get up to 1400fps+ I have to go to checks or leading occurs but in saying that I use fairly soft metal most of the time, just straight wheel weight metal.
Cheers.

I have a lot of ex roof lead flashings, are these any good for casting subs?

Originally Posted by ANTSMAN

I have a lot of ex roof lead flashings, are these any good for casting subs?

Yes perfect you just need to add some 50/50 solder to the mix to break the surface tension so the lead flows into
mould and fills all the grooves, straight lead is great for round ball moulds if you know any Black powder shooters
they will take it off your hands. Robert.