Thread: Chamber casts, what material to use?

a few other tips

Mildly warm the metal of the chamber you want to cast
Well oiled
Obviously block the bore ahead of the chamber
Big chambers the cast will solidify and the core will hollow out, so keep topping up the center as it starts to cool with liquid mix from your little sulphur pot
Blank off extractor rebates etc with plasacene or blue tack
Have your gun set up chamber up in a vice in SOFT JAWS or well supported vertically

Maybe try this first on a gun that is easy to get at the chamber and not so valuable
I suspect the molten sulphur would damage a wood or plastic stock
I know it will damage you if you get it on yourself
Make sure your pot has a little V pourer lip because it is very hard to get it where you want it when wearing gloves etc

WAIT a decent amount of time to try knocking the cast out.
When casting really big chambers I found that the core wasn't hard even after 5 minutes
So wait until the metal work has cooled to normal ambient temperature before trying to knock it out with the larges cleaning rod you can fit in the bore
And do take your spear point cleaning jag off !

I have casts all over my work benches.
Don't bother trying to re melt and recycle them. They are cheap to make and the solid casts are a lot harder to safely re melt than just using more of the powdered sulphur and graphite

Cerrosafe is accurate for around 1 hour and then changes very gradually over time ... a tiny amount that most of you would never be able to accurately measure.
Sulphur in my experience does not change over time.
But I do record their dimensions and label them immediately after I take them out. I have re measured some and not found that I can find any differences.

All the same can be done to take a chamber cast of reloading sizer dies to diagnose problems