Looking at brass cleaning options, there are some more expensive than others...
Is there a recognized 'ghetto' method..?
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Looking at brass cleaning options, there are some more expensive than others...
Is there a recognized 'ghetto' method..?
Deprime and clean primer pockets
Wash in detergent water, rinse clean
Soak in 50/50 water vinegar 1/2 hour, stir a few times drain and rinse clean
quick wash and rinse with detergent to neutralize any remaining acid dry in sun on trampoline
Wipe it with a rag, run a case neck brush through it. Proceed to reloading.
I bought a very cheap sonic cleaner on aliexpress... I put tap hot water in it, a teaspoon of citric acid and a squirt of dishwash and they vibrate away for about 6 minutes.
Then a dip in hot water with baking soda, and they are clean and shiny.
I then put them on a oven tray with baking paper and dry them in the oven with the door open for about 10mins.
Whole thing is over and done in 20 mins or so.
I know someone else who uses the same recipe, and simmers the brass in a saucepan for 10 mins or so, and they come out just as clean and shiny.
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Yep, that's virtually where I have now got to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnetite
I wipe the necks with a product called Krazy Kloth, stiff brush inside neck, deprime, clean primer pocket, resize (FLS nowadays), reload, go shoot.
And yes, I can see any defects in my brass and no I rarely lose brass in the scrub because it is not shiny bright reflecting sunlight.
I still have my Dillon tumbler, my ultrasonic tank, and my SS wet tumbler. Rarely used nowadays.
I made a rotary wet tumbler as a prototype with random crap i had laying around, drawing up a proper frame now and going to make it out of aluminum at work. Stainless pins are the most expensive part
Greetings All,
Being a low tech handloader by inclination I follow the low tech route.
1. First don't let your brass get too dirty in the first place.
2. Next I deprime using a Lee punch and base set and clean the primer pockets with a small screw driver. This is done on a separate bench from my press to keep the gritty residue away from the press ram.
3. Next the outside of the case necks are given a spiff up with steel wool to remove burnt powder residue. If you have not mastered step 1. yet you may need to attend to the rest of the case with the steel wool. A quick polish with a Chux cloth finishes the job. This step is also done on the previously mentioned separate bench to keep the steel wool fibers away from the magnetic damper on my beam scales.
4. As part of case lubrication, wiped on with fingers, the inside of the case neck is given a quick clean with a strip of Chux wound around an old bore brush with a light touch of case lube from the fingers mentioned previously. This eases the passage of the expander button.
That is my method at the moment. Please note I said at the start it was low tech not low OCD.
Regards Grandpamac.
same as what i do, citric acid is so cheap and works so well. will never buy the $50+ bottle of sonic cleaner.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerardo
Similiar to what I do but I use some backing soda as well, can't remember the exact recipe. Cleans them up really nice and 10 mins in the oven on low heat dries them well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moa Hunter
If you're really ghetto put in tumble drier with as media. Makes the Mrs hit the roof too
using overall length trimmer,the case is held by rim in attachment inserted in cordless drill...case gets trimmed for length,deburred inside n out if any removed by trimmer...then while still in drill hold choirboy pad (must try steel wool) and given a quick whirl...shines them up a little.
Old cloth nappy with some meths on it was my ghetto method. Brush inside the neck and green scrubber on anything stubborn on the outside of neck.
Same as Micky Duck except i use a green scotch brite to polish them ,they come up nice and shiny
Thanks guys, appreciate it.
I brought one of those little tumblers, it works quite well, just don’t overload it, I put 50, .223 cases in it with about 1/2 pound of SS media and it works quite well.
Yup steel wool works good but doesn't last longQuote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
I looked at all the ghetto methods and decided I like shiny brass. Use a Frankford Arsenal tumbler with corn cob and additive..imported it when they were super pricey here, 2005, a friend coming over from the States brought it in.. still going strong. Have a Hornady also now and a Smart Reloader, $100 and $50 used. For that sort of dosh and just chuck them in and come back in a couple of hours that works well for me as I do large qtys of Pistol brass as well. If just doing the rifle, rag and brush would be fine.
Same as this a lot of the time with the odd biff into the sonic or media tumbler.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
I use a product called Never Dull on the necks instead of steel wool. whilew they are in the holder.
Hi GPMQuote:
Originally Posted by grandpamac
Are you not concerned about lube contaminating the charge (I'm assuming lube at neck won't make it to primer which would be my next thought...)?
If you have a treadmill... a 4lb plastic protein container tub filled with SS media, laundry powder and dishwash liquid works nicely. Just don’t stand on it while you’re running.
Chuck a hamster in and let him have at it on the floor...Quote:
Originally Posted by -BW-
I decided a long time ago that shiny brass contributed nothing to consistency. I uniform primer pockets, size and brush the inside of the neck a bit with a nylon brush then get on with loading. I never use expander buttons, preferring to expand necks with a K&M expander Mandela before sizing.
I use a dry powder neck lube.Quote:
Originally Posted by davetapson
Also I tap the case a couple of times mouth down and a couple of times base down to reduce
The amount t of graphite, brass trimmings and primer debris left inside.
Greetings Davetapson,Quote:
Originally Posted by davetapson
Sorry for the late reply, just spotted your post. I was concerned about contamination early on when using a more liquid case lube. I used to clean the neck inside with a dry Chux strip. Since I changed to a wax lube I found I was able to minimise the amount used and have encountered no problems. I just give the Chux a light brush with my fingers after lubricating a case. The dry media mentioned elsewhere in this thread would be just as good and possibly better.
Regrads Grandpamac.