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  • 1 Post By puku

Thread: De-crimping boxer primer brass

  1. #1
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    De-crimping boxer primer brass

    What would be the most cost effective way to clean up primer crimps? Seems my options start at $6 (if the lee tool actually works) and can get to $200 (for a Dillion swage tool) fast. Id rather not spend $200 for $70's worth of 1942 / 1943 and some S&B 303 brass, (about 170 cases).
    "I do not wish to be a pawn or canon fodder on the whims of MY Government"

  2. #2
    Gone But Not Forgotten Toby's Avatar
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    I use that lee thing, seems fine to me just slow
    VIVA LA HOWA

  3. #3
    Addicted puku's Avatar
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    I bought a Lyman combo type one. And wore it out after 80 223 cases. Apparently the Lyman tool dedicated for it is okay. Our this is better still http://www.gunworks.co.nz/shop/categ...-crimp-remover

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    steven likes this.
    Rule 5: Check your firing zone

  4. #4
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    I haven't done many but just used a deburring tool, seemed to work fine.

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    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

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  5. #5
    Member dogmatix's Avatar
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    Use the counter sunk drill bit from your drill kit to deburr the crimp.
    A few spins by hand and its done.
    I then uniform the primer pockets, so its part of my new brass routine.
    I've done hundreds of ex mil sup 7.62x51/.308 brass that way.


    I have the Hornady deburr tool for small primer pockets though. At $7-9 its sweet. Lasted 1000s of .223 cases and still going strong.
    Welcome to Sako club.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by puku View Post
    I bought a Lyman combo type one. And wore it out after 80 223 cases. Apparently the Lyman tool dedicated for it is okay. Our this is better still Gunworks Ltd - Military Crimp Remover

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4
    That's the complete unit? or does it fit in something else?
    "I do not wish to be a pawn or canon fodder on the whims of MY Government"

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogmatix View Post
    Use the counter sunk drill bit from your drill kit to deburr the crimp.
    A few spins by hand and its done.
    I then uniform the primer pockets, so its part of my new brass routine.
    I've done hundreds of ex mil sup 7.62x51/.308 brass that way.


    I have the Lyman deburr tool for small primer pockets though. At $7-9 its sweet.
    I tried the 5 cutter countersink last night, I de-burred this 1943 / 1942 quite heavily on 2 and that wasnt enough.....reluctant to deburr any more...
    "I do not wish to be a pawn or canon fodder on the whims of MY Government"

  8. #8
    Member dogmatix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven View Post
    I tried the 5 cutter countersink last night, I de-burred this 1943 / 1942 quite heavily on 2 and that wasnt enough.....reluctant to deburr any more...
    Get the little crimp deburr tool then, as it stops you from going too far.
    Welcome to Sako club.

  9. #9
    Addicted puku's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven View Post
    That's the complete unit? or does it fit in something else?
    I am in the understanding that, that is it and you can put it in a drill or put a handle on the end of it
    Rule 5: Check your firing zone

  10. #10
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    Thanks Ive ordered one
    "I do not wish to be a pawn or canon fodder on the whims of MY Government"

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by puku View Post
    I bought a Lyman combo type one. And wore it out after 80 223 cases. Apparently the Lyman tool dedicated for it is okay. Our this is better still Gunworks Ltd - Military Crimp Remover

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4
    I got he layman multitool as it was all I could get fast, it sucked big time....got this today, brilliant and easy to use and very quick. Very happy for $40. Put it in my battery drill at 1400rpm, < 2secs each done and dusted...

    thanks
    "I do not wish to be a pawn or canon fodder on the whims of MY Government"

  12. #12
    Official Cheese Shaman Spanners's Avatar
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    I've got a RCBS or redding press mounted swage kit that I'd get rid of if still looking

    On another note, have a Dillon 1050 that's automated for processing - 4c a case for 223

    Will be doing batches of 308 once the 15k 223 backlog is cleared

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spanners View Post
    I've got a RCBS or redding press mounted swage kit that I'd get rid of if still looking

    On another note, have a Dillon 1050 that's automated for processing - 4c a case for 223

    Will be doing batches of 308 once the 15k 223 backlog is cleared
    Hi,

    Ive seen that as well, its supposed to be good and swaging is supposed to be better. But I dont expect I'll buy much second hand brass again, just going to buy new winchester and privi from now on, way easier and more consistant. Given a no4 is hard on brass I dont know I want to spend any more when they stretch to death pretty quickly, thanks anyway.
    "I do not wish to be a pawn or canon fodder on the whims of MY Government"

  14. #14
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven View Post
    Hi,

    spend any more when they stretch to death pretty quickly, thanks anyway.

    Are you neck sizing only?
    Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  15. #15
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    Yes....I run 308 FMJs as my Lithgow H barrel is 301, shoots very well, my other 303 uses 311s though as it has a std but ball burnished barrel. Barnual are just starting to sell 174gr fmjs flat base

    I have a Redding competition S 303 neck sizing die and Lee 303 full die. I cant get the Lee 303 (or 308) neck sizer to work consistently, given up, bought a Redding



    Still working out loads....
    "I do not wish to be a pawn or canon fodder on the whims of MY Government"

 

 

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