Thread: DIY Primer Pocket Cleaner

Worn my primer pocket cleaner out and needed something immediately to get a heap of reloading done. And no one local had anything in stock.
So a bit of thinking later and I've come up with a simple solution....

1 x 223Rem case bashed the neck flat and ground back to suit with my grinder.

Works as a quick solution to my problem.
Now at least I can continue on....

My first one ever was exactly like yours.

Some times the simple solutions are still the most effective/the best.

A nice thick piece of copper cable works well too.

I ground a small screwdriver to fit, works like a charm.

The Sinclair and K&M have both different depths. Prefer the Sinclair. Whilst it might solve an immediate problem find best to get right tools for the job. 2C.

cut handle off small screw driver would work well too.....in drill chuck.
I learnt with a wee screw driver,have tried many things over years,and at times dont even bother scraping them out at all.

Originally Posted by TeRei

The Sinclair and K&M have both different depths. Prefer the Sinclair. Whilst it might solve an immediate problem find best to get right tools for the job. 2C.

My first Sinclair primer pocket uniforming tool was brilliant. Decided to order a spare from Sinclairs. Cut a few pocket with the new one and it was cutting massively deeper than the first. Around 0.134". SAAMI max depth is 0.132"

Outcome was I had a small batch of over depth pockets. Sinclairs said send it back after I complained. Outcome was it cost me to return it, got a refund, net result $0.00. Should have hung on to it methinks now.

At least the K&M is adjustable.

Originally Posted by zimmer

My first Sinclair primer pocket uniforming tool was brilliant. Decided to order a spare from Sinclairs. Cut a few pocket with the new one and it was cutting massively deeper than the first. Around 0.134". SAAMI max depth is 0.132"

Outcome was I had a small batch of over depth pockets. Sinclairs said send it back after I complained. Outcome was it cost me to return it, got a refund, net result $0.00. Should have hung on to it methinks now.

At least the K&M is adjustable.

The Sinclair cuts deeper and leaves a truly sharp pocket. The K&M is much shallower in cutting. Have destroyed quite a few Sinclair over the years by running them into Mil pockets. You need to swage them first. That hurt. LOL.

Originally Posted by TeRei

The Sinclair cuts deeper and leaves a truly sharp pocket. The K&M is much shallower in cutting. Have destroyed quite a few Sinclair over the years by running them into Mil pockets. You need to swage them first. That hurt. LOL.

I liked the way the Sinclair ones cut. They seemed to cut better, easier? than the K&M.
I ended up eventually buying an adjustable 21stCentury.

I was using a redding then i here eric cortina and the Primal rights guy saying Lapua brass i dont touch the primer pockets. pretty much saying you are making them less uniform.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijbcTSAdKqs&t=125s go to 35 seconds.

Originally Posted by Tim Dicko

I was using a redding then i here eric cortina and the Primal rights guy saying Lapua brass i dont touch the primer pockets. pretty much saying you are making them less uniform.

Last lot of Lapua Palma brass I did nothing except debur the inside end of the flash hole. And that was out of habit. The depths were all very uniform. It's another step I've eliminated from reloading. If it provides no measurable benefit why do it. Not so sure about lesser quality brass but I stopped using anything like that years ago.
As for squaring the bottoms of the pockets that mostly unecessary.

There is also a risk of cutting too deep (re my second Sinclair uniformer) and depending upon the rifle, and how much you push the shoulder back ignition may not be optimum.

I'd take more notice of Greg Dykstra than Erik Cortina. Dykstra always gives good explanations.