Dry neck lube brands and application method...

So who uses what brand of lube, how do they apply it and any tips?

I ask because I have just set up an amp press and found a couple of surprises with my first attempts.

I used redding case lube for the first 20, used a cotton bud inside the neck and around the projectile where it sits in the neck. These are the lowest 20 pressures on the attached image... but there is a huge varience in seating pressures.

So I pulled out an old container of Lyman lube I had left over and used exactly the same procedure for the next 7... they were much more consistent, but were all much higher seating pressures... I then did the final two using no lube and these were smack in the middle of the Lyman results.

The lyman lube and no lube were consistent but higher pressures, the Redding lube were inconsistant but lower seating pressures

Neck sizing and annealing was consistent across the board...

What products do others use, how is it applied and any secrets or tricks anyone care to share?

The Imperial brand stuff in the ceramic prills.

birdshot in tin lid with graphite powder,dip the neck,give bit of a turn to ensure complete coverage,bit of shake off and good to go.

Which turns out MD is no good for annealed brass I found out. But I think LBD knows that because he would have read the manual thoroughly

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Originally Posted by charliehorse

Which turns out MD is no good for annealed brass I found out. But I think LBD knows that because he would have read the manual thoroughly

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.... now i need to go back to the manual looking for "MD"

This is interesting, I haven't heard of lubing bullets other than with Lubalox. Won't the lube contaminate the powder and cause variation in neck tension?

Very interesting

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

birdshot in tin lid with graphite powder,dip the neck,give bit of a turn to ensure complete coverage,bit of shake off and good to go.

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I don't lube my case necks for seating as it would be very difficult with powder in the cases if you did it post weighing your charges in and if you did it before the powder would stick to it

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Originally Posted by charliehorse

Which turns out MD is no good for annealed brass I found out. But I think LBD knows that because he would have read the manual thoroughly

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I have used this method in my brass for quite a while and never had any issues. What makes graphite bad for annealed cases ?

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Originally Posted by Rated M for Magnum

This is interesting, I haven't heard of lubing bullets other than with Lubalox. Won't the lube contaminate the powder and cause variation in neck.


Very interesting

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Yup I reckon it would which is why I use powdered graphite similarly to how MD mentions, but dip the base of my projectiles in it before seating instead of the case neck which would be problematic as I mentioned above.

I use Redding Imperial sizing wax on the body and dip the neck in graphite powder mixed with ceramic beads.
I dip the neck first then the body otherwise the beads stick to the wax.

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@dannyb I usually use it for sizing as MD does inside the necks but in the AMP manual that comes with the annealer it talks about how the Graphite won't stick to the brass once annealed. Gives an explanation why but I'm not near the details currently.

I was sizing some annealed brass for the first time on the weekend and had issues so switched to wet lubing the inside of the neck and problem solved. Expander just glides through

I clean the inside of the neck with a bronze brush in a battery drill first then a wee bit of graphite powder.
Makes it very smooth in the die.

Never had an issue with hornady one-shot. I generally decap, tumble,dry cases then start the process. Oneshot stays inside the necks for the whole process. Way less messy than imperial wax too

Yup I reckon it would which is why I use powdered graphite similarly to how MD mentions, but dip the base of my projectiles in it before seating instead of the case neck which would be problematic as I mentioned above.[/QUOTE]

Now that I haven't tried, maybe I will try the graphite on the bullet base next time I'm experimenting :thumbsup:

I use the lee toothpaste stuff and have tried the graphite on the necks but it was inconsistent for me for some reason, some would slide through nicely and other wouldn't. Further investigation needed on my part there.

Still got plenty of popcorn left over here :D

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Originally Posted by charliehorse

@dannyb I usually use it for sizing as MD does inside the necks but in the AMP manual that comes with the annealer it talks about how the Graphite won't stick to the brass once annealed. Gives an explanation why but I'm not near the details currently.

I was sizing some annealed brass for the first time on the weekend and had issues so switched to wet lubing the inside of the neck and problem solved. Expander just glides through

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I lube cases neck inside and out and body with standard cases lube *insert preffered brand here* after annealing, prior to sizing. Then after sizing I clean the cases thoroughly to remove all lube so I don't contaminate my powder.
Once charge weights are filled into cases I use the powdered graphite on the base of the projectile which it sticks to just fine. No need to lube the case neck cause the graphite on the projectile lubricates it whilst seating.
Similar to MD's suggestion of using a container of shot and graphite I just swirl the base of the projectile in it immediately prior to seating.
Works for me :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by Rated M for Magnum

Yup I reckon it would which is why I use powdered graphite similarly to how MD mentions, but dip the base of my projectiles in it before seating instead of the case neck which would be problematic as I mentioned above.

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Now that I haven't tried, maybe I will try the graphite on the bullet base next time I'm experimenting :thumbsup:

I use the lee toothpaste stuff and have tried the graphite on the necks but it was inconsistent for me for some reason, some would slide through nicely and other wouldn't. Further investigation needed on my part there.

Still got plenty of popcorn left over here :D[/QUOTE]

Throw that lee toothpaste shit in the bin it's bloody rubbish

Interesting thoughts guys.... I will try a few different ideas .... I am seeking consistency ahead of low seating pressures... as we all should I guess

Had no luck with 'one shot'. It couldn't even slide right into the bin!

For years I have used graphite and laterly been using the redding ceramic bead mix.
I brush my necks then Amp anneal then FL resize.
Saying that graphite doesn't stick to the annealed brass doesn't ring true as if I miss a case I can tell pulling the button back out that it has no graphite applied.
I have been thinking about buying the press but I have decided I can't shoot any better than the ammo I make now so a waste for me.
If when I am seating a bullet and I notice it is variant to the rest I check it visually and the reason it is different is it is a different brand of brass every time.
My 2 cents


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So... Progress

The redding dry lube and ceramic balls applicator and I now use an expander mandril instead of an expander ball.

I have found this too that the graphite don't stick to annealed cases, before i used to never anneal and the graphite stuck to the neck just fine. but now that i anneal it all just falls off and my ES is higher. can still hit a deer at 600 so haven't looked into it too much more.

Hmm, I'm annealed and graphited so proof in the pudding i reckon!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d0a97c876d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6e1aafeaf1.jpg

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