First reloads

Loaded up some 243 with @40mm

A few hiccups (for the record all on me)

But eventually we were off!

Most of the earlier groups were around 1 inch. Near the book max I shot this.

But we encountered some unusual primers

The first photos are the book starting charge weight.

Second ones are the load we ended up with. Half a grain below book max.

Also made a classic mistake. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c0dd780f0a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7eb6ad8ce6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a181a18d33.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b5cd68f706.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eea1e77ef6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...efb996d480.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a0532c3473.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...12231a9f3e.jpg

I miss labelled that target. Whoops.

I have never missed priming a case.
I have missed putting powder in though, and more than once. Thankfully I picked up on it before trying to fire them. All were 243 as well.

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Originally Posted by Cigar

I have never missed priming a case.
I have missed putting powder in though, and more than once. Thankfully I picked up on it before trying to fire them. All were 243 as well.

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Yeah I had issues with the priming tool and getting it centred so had to de prime and re prime a bit. Lesson learnt

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Originally Posted by Cigar

I have never missed priming a case.
I have missed putting powder in though, and more than once. Thankfully I picked up on it before trying to fire them. All were 243 as well.

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I know a guy that turned up with most of a MTM boxful of 300winmag missing primers, shit it was funny. Hour and a half each way to the range and everything

Primer photo suggests a bit of tolerance between the firing pin and the pin hole. Pressure appears to be OK as the edges of the primer are still rounded photo 3 looks lIke it's a very light load the pin indentation is rounded. Mind you primer shape is not the most reliable indicator of pressure still it can be a guide..
Leaving the primer out is better than putting it in backwards and firing it. Nasty little bits come out the vent hole in the bolt.

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Originally Posted by mimms2

Nothing too "unusual" from what I see. What tool are you using to seat them? Did you uniform primer pocket/flash holes? Did that last one back out on firing, or did you miss putting primer in?

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We used a Lee ergo prime and a lyman one.

Yes. We chamfered and cleaned the hole.

Missed putting it in due to a lot of back and forth adjusting dies and trying to prime it properly.

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Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Primer photo suggests a bit of tolerance between the firing pin and the pin hole. Pressure appears to be OK as the edges of the primer are still rounded photo 3 looks lIke it's a very light load the pin indentation is rounded. Mind you primer shape is not the most reliable indicator of pressure still it can be a guide..
Leaving the primer out is better than putting it in backwards and firing it. Nasty little bits come out the vent hole in the bolt.

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What do you mean? A little gap between the two?

The book max was 43 grains. So still a bit to go. But I think the 2.710 cartridge overall length may be close to the lands as the round required bumping to get it to chamber. As the targex projectiles are not always the same length. Still a great projectile.

Sure not going to be 3100 like factory ammo claims but very accurate!

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What do you mean? A little gap between the two?

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Your firing pin is skinnier than the hole it pokes out of in the bolt. The primer will extrude back and into the gap between the two, hense the little ring around the strike mark in the primer. Nothing unusual.
Those primers look very round. I would draw no conclusion of excessive pressure on those.
Youre using the 70g or 95 Targex? What powder? 2209? ADI has 42g for 95g as max

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overall length may be close to the lands as the round required bumping to get it to chamber.

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theres a smear on the base of the case from camming the bolt over. I think you need to FL size your brass first. Does an empty case chamber and eject easily? When you say bumping do you mean extra force to chamber the round? Tight bolt?
You really should learn how to find your lands first and work back from there rather than guess. Its pretty easy. Whats the rifle?

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Sure not going to be 3100 like factory ammo claims but very accurate!

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accuracy is king. Forget speed.

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

Your firing pin is skinnier than the hole it pokes out of in the bolt. The primer will extrude back and into the gap between the two, hense the little ring around the strike mark in the primer. Nothing unusual.
Those primers look very round. I would draw no conclusion of excessive pressure on those.
Youre using the 70g or 95 Targex? What powder? 2209? ADI has 42g for 95g as max
theres a smear on the base of the case from camming the bolt over. I think you need to FL size your brass first. Does an empty case chamber and eject easily? When you say bumping do you mean extra force to chamber the round? Tight bolt?
You really should learn how to find your lands first and work back from there rather than guess. Its pretty easy. Whats the rifle?
accuracy is king. Forget speed.

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Ah OK.

95 grain targex.

H414. The book max off hodgon website is 42.0 as well. The 43.0 grains was from an old 1992 book.

I have only neck sized with a collet die.

Never tried.

Yes. And yes

Howa 1500. I just used max cartridge overall length.

[emoji106]

Whats the brass sh fired in another rifle or a pack of new stuff

When I reload, I take things slowly and carefully, check every step.

That said, I have had to pull hundreds of rounds apart over the years because I made mistakes.

Get a FL die. I think this will solve your right to chamber problems.
My 243 was the only rifle I had that would develop neck donuts too. Have a check for this. Easy test is if a projectile will pass through a fired neck. If no go you’ve the dreaded donut. Throw them away if so. If you’ve not FL sized then brass flow is probably going to be reduced though.

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Originally Posted by northdude

Whats the brass sh fired in another rifle or a pack of new stuff

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All fired in the rifle.

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Originally Posted by Max Headroom

When I reload, I take things slowly and carefully, check every step.

That said, I have had to pull hundreds of rounds apart over the years because I made mistakes.

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Yeah next time I'll triple check.

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

Get a FL die. I think this will solve your right to chamber problems.
My 243 was the only rifle I had that would develop neck donuts too. Have a check for this. Easy test is if a projectile will pass through a fired neck. If no go you’ve the dreaded donut. Throw them away if so. If you’ve not FL sized then brass flow is probably going to be reduced though.

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I have a full length die. Just always read that once it's been fire formed to the chamber then neck sizing is the best thing to do.

Yes. I have some that will let a projectile go through the neck.

How do you fix the neck donuts?

nek minute

Many of the most accurate shooters will full-length size with a shoulder bump of only about 2thou.

This achieves the benefits of neck sizing only, in that the brass fits the chamber pretty much perfectly, with the added reliability of a tiny bump in headspace to ensure it always chambers properly.
The only way that im aware of to set this up really accurately is with headspace comparitors. 1/24 of a turn on the die is enough to put you in and out of "the zone" if you are going for only a 2thou bump in headspace.

How I set up the full-length die is by.

1. Measure the headspace of a fired case.
2. Full length size the fired case and then measure its headspace again.
3. Adjust the Die to be closer to the 2thou only bump we are aiming for.
4. Full length size another fired case, and measure again.
5. Repeat till its only bumping headspace by 2thou.

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Originally Posted by ChrisW

Many of the most accurate shooters will full-length size with a shoulder bump of only about 2thou.

This achieves the benefits of neck sizing only, in that the brass fits the chamber pretty much perfectly, with the added reliability of a tiny bump in headspace to ensure it always chambers properly.
The only way that im aware of to set this up really accurately is with headspace comparitors. 1/24 of a turn on the die is enough to put you in and out of "the zone" if you are going for only a 2thou bump in headspace.

How I set up the full-length die is by.

1. Measure the headspace of a fired case.
2. Full length size the fired case and then measure its headspace again.
3. Adjust the Die to be closer to the 2thou only bump we are aiming for.
4. Full length size another fired case, and measure again.
5. Repeat till its only bumping headspace by 2thou.

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I'll give that a go some time. :)

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Originally Posted by Russian 22.

I'll give that a go some time. :)

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What you will not be able to do will be too actually measure your head space unless you have a gauge to measure it with. I have a Hornady comparator for this. There is a possibility you can over work your brass but I have found typically that just touching the shell holder firmly is about right.

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Originally Posted by mimms2

That's how I've always done it... you can wind your neck sizing die in another 1/4 turn and see if that makes an appreciable differnce, I always bump as little as I can get away with. Check/trim your cases to length, too.

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He has a collet die, plus any neck die will never FL size so another 1/4 turn (about 0.009") is just going to break or jam something.
Brass will flow forward every time it is fired. No case will survive repeat firings without needing a shoulder bump eventually.

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I have a full length die. Just always read that once it's been fire formed to the chamber then neck sizing is the best thing to do.

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No. All brass will eventually need a full size as the brass gets worked. Neck sizing is good for most cycles but it's important to have brass that fits your rifle. Nothing worse than finding your rounds won't chamber one day one of a multi-day fly in trip.

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Yes. I have some that will let a projectile go through the neck.

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They all need to pass through, but this may just be a red herring for now. Focus on the basics

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How do you fix the neck donuts?

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You don't in my experience. Just throw it away and start again.

Mmm throw them away?

Need to understand how in the OP's case the donuts were formed although I couldn’t actually see where he had a problem with donuts? Yet.

With my 284 mine formed in part from neck turning and in part from brass flow over several firings. Some cartridges are more prone to brass flow.

If for example, shooting boatail projectiles and the projectile boatail to bearing surface junction doesn't seat into the donut there isn't a problem. Or for that matter flat base projectiles that don't seat down far enough down the neck to contact the donut.

Otherwise I cut the donut out using a K&M carbide mandrel with the cutter on its tip.

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Originally Posted by zimmer

Mmm throw them away?

Need to understand how in the OP's case the donuts were formed although I couldn’t actually see where he had a problem with donuts? Yet.

With my 284 mine formed in part from neck turning and in part from brass flow over several firings. Some cartridges are more prone to brass flow.

If for example, shooting boatail projectiles and the projectile boatail to bearing surface junction doesn't seat into the donut there isn't a problem. Or for that matter flat base projectiles that don't seat down far enough down the neck to contact the donut.

Otherwise I cut the donut out using a K&M carbide mandrel with the cutter on its tip.

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It's 243 brass and in S&B so it's hardly tough to buy new. Heck you could buy bags of brass for the price of a K&M tool. I've got 243Win brass I can't even give away so I think it's all relevant. Also, I think I bought up donuts not the OP so it is probably a tangent a new reloader maybe doesn't need to consider until he has got the basics right (like priming every case [emoji23])

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

What you will not be able to do will be too actually measure your head space unless you have a gauge to measure it with. I have a Hornady comparator for this. There is a possibility you can over work your brass but I have found typically that just touching the shell holder firmly is about right.

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I will have a look into the comparator.

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

No. All brass will eventually need a full size as the brass gets worked. Neck sizing is good for most cycles but it's important to have brass that fits your rifle. Nothing worse than finding your rounds won't chamber one day one of a multi-day fly in trip.


They all need to pass through, but this may just be a red herring for now. Focus on the basics


You don't in my experience. Just throw it away and start again.

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Do you have a number of firings before you full length size and trim it? I was going to full length size it after 4 firings and trim to case max length.

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

It's 243 brass and in S&B so it's hardly tough to buy new. Heck you could buy bags of brass for the price of a K&M tool. I've got 243Win brass I can't even give away so I think it's all relevant. Also, I think I bought up donuts not the OP so it is probably a tangent a new reloader maybe doesn't need to consider until he has got the basics right (like priming every case [emoji23])

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Savage. Killing me. Hahahahhahahaha.

You need to trim as soon as a case goes overlength, which means you need to check every case after every firing. I use the Lyman Ee-zee (or something like that), very quick and easy.
I had one batch of brass where more than half needed trimming after two firings.

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Originally Posted by Russian 22.

I will have a look into the comparator.



Do you have a number of firings before you full length size and trim it? I was going to full length size it after 4 firings and trim to case max length.



Savage. Killing me. Hahahahhahahaha.

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Do the FL thing and see how that works. I'm picking if it's tight to chamber this will be your problem.
It's not a F Class rifle so to FL size regularly won't hurt. I like to know my neck tension is as consistent as I can get it without getting too wound up about it so I have a preference for Redding Type S dies. My last 243Win I only had a Type S FL die and it was just as accurate as any rifle I have owned. FL sizing every 4th time should be a good start I'd guess but there are plenty of more experienced reloaders on here who may have better advice.

We all make mistakes my mate who is very new to reloading done this the other day
Attachment 122084
That’s a good kind of mistake it will never go in the gun to be fired
Forgetting a primer not bad
Undersized brass no problem as it won’t fit in the gun
A perfect round with the worng powder or double charge those are the mistakes you just can’t afford you could best case distroy you’re rifle
And at worst Well you know



I tryed neck sizeing and didn’t like it
I found it to be problematic
I use fls dies and bump the sholder 1-2 thou depending on the load
Found this video on YouTube the other day
Makes perfect sense
https://youtu.be/lLG2kSrD40g

After a bit of practice you will have your technique and process down and you will be less likely to make mistakes but be aware mistakes to happen to even the most experienced Reloaders make mistakes so you need to double and triple check everything

my 1st edition Nosler manual.... has instructions on how to partial length resize,it works for me. gives a neck size and wee bump.....

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Originally Posted by rambo-6mmrem

We all make mistakes my mate who is very new to reloading done this the other day
Attachment 122084
That’s a good kind of mistake it will never go in the gun to be fired
Forgetting a primer not bad
Undersized brass no problem as it won’t fit in the gun
A perfect round with the worng powder or double charge those are the mistakes you just can’t afford you could best case distroy you’re rifle
And at worst Well you know



I tryed neck sizeing and didn’t like it
I found it to be problematic
I use fls dies and bump the sholder 1-2 thou depending on the load
Found this video on YouTube the other day
Makes perfect sense
https://youtu.be/lLG2kSrD40g

After a bit of practice you will have your technique and process down and you will be less likely to make mistakes but be aware mistakes to happen to even the most experienced Reloaders make mistakes so you need to double and triple check everything

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That's some great advice.

I have two bits of paper on wall infront of my reloading bench...my pet loads on one and the set of step by step instructions that come with LEE dies.....

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Originally Posted by Cigar

You need to trim as soon as a case goes overlength, which means you need to check every case after every firing. I use the Lyman Ee-zee (or something like that), very quick and easy.
I had one batch of brass where more than half needed trimming after two firings.

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I have a nice and shiny digital caliper so I'll measure up the cases and projectiles and see how much the cases need to be trimmed.

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

Do the FL thing and see how that works. I'm picking if it's tight to chamber this will be your problem.
It's not a F Class rifle so to FL size regularly won't hurt. I like to know my neck tension is as consistent as I can get it without getting too wound up about it so I have a preference for Redding Type S dies. My last 243Win I only had a Type S FL die and it was just as accurate as any rifle I have owned. FL sizing every 4th time should be a good start I'd guess but there are plenty of more experienced reloaders on here who may have better advice.

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I had a mark all around the projectile from chambering. Like it was hitting the lands. Was still an accurate load.

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Originally Posted by Russian 22.

I have a nice and shiny digital caliper so I'll measure up the cases and projectiles and see how much the cases need to be trimmed.



I had a mark all around the projectile from chambering. Like it was hitting the lands. Was still an accurate load.

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Just watch that should really knock your oal lenth back a bit
Pressure can do funny things when you’re jammed in the lans
It can shoot well like that though But need to be extra careful not to over charge on accident

Can also prove to be a bit unreliable for hunting

If you’re unsure on how to find a max oal
There’s plenty of different methods online
But till you get it sorted id just stick to sammi oal
Which should work ok in most factory barrels

Reloading is easy just takes some practice to get everything dialed
Don’t get discouraged you will get there

Ive been reloading for 14 years (since 15yo) and still make plenty of fuck ups
The Secret is to have processes in place so you hopefully never let a mistake slip past
You for example your missing primer you should check each primer to make sure its flush
You would have noticed the missing primer right away and fixed it
It’s just process is all and once you have a good process that works for you every one is slightly different
Then all those simple mistakes should all but vanish but you have your process incase you do make a mistake so you pick it up before it’s an issue