Thanks, will carry that out before I start from scratch. Just have to lookup what the web area is, LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
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Thanks, will carry that out before I start from scratch. Just have to lookup what the web area is, LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Get the sizing right, then trim to length, then chamfer the inside and outside of your case mouth.
look at your case,,,come up from rim on sidewall about 1/4-1/2" and you will see the light colour area...known as the web...you SHOULD know about this as you SHOULD be checking it from inside the case with a paperclip feeler guage...basically scratch your way up inside feeling for a catchy spot...where the brass has got thin from all the stretching....
Got it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
if its a bit on the fat side...what I ended up with... your case will do as you are describing.... the good ladies at gunworks will send you down another shell holder in a jiffy..$35 mine cost last week and arrived 2 days later.....sanding your one down will allow you to push case down further and its less drastic than taking material off bottom of the die,and its a cheaper part to replace if it doesnt solve issue. pity your not closer or would be able to try different dies n bases here....
I’ve got a lee quick trim die for 270win and the cutter if you’d like to borrow it, lots of people look down their noses at the quick trim system as it seems to be too simple and cheap to work but I have excellent results using it and buy them for every calibre I reload for
In saying that, I’ve also got a Lyman full length size die you could borrow also if you wanted to give it a goQuote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst
Thanks Ryan, will keep that in mind.
Yea, I’m used to making do with what I have living remotely but the one bit of extra kit I have is a #2 shell holder so no biggy if I have to modify one for the 270 leaving me a spare for the 260. Hopefully the issue will resolve itself by refining my technique.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
And yes, I’ve always had great service from Gunworks, the pricing has always been very fair as I’ve built up the last of my component/powder stock.
I did buy a new Redding 1400 case trimmer a number of years ago at a good price but the Lee system looks so much less fuss and quicker to cycle cases through. Perhaps when the weather improves and you end up with some time to host a day of steel shooting we’ll catchup on some reloading stuff if that suits.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst
"To the aficionados of Gods caliber."....I couldn't find any reference at all to 6.5x55 ...or 6.5 Sweedmore... but, I would recommend you try some 110gr-ers in your .270 . The results will make you grin .Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidetrack
I’m sure I mentioned a 260 somewhere on here but it generally likes to stay in closet with all the other 6.5’s. It’ll come out one day when it finally realises it’s really just a 270 in denial.Quote:
Originally Posted by rewa
OK so Im waaay out in left field here.....asking question that HOPEFULLY one of the more knowledgeable folks will be able to answer..... IF indeed this fine fellows chamber is in the supertight bracket and his dies cant quite squeaze case down far enough...yes indeed making shell holder skinnier from the rim slot to top plate that hits die will shorten over all length of case BUT if its the shoulder thats touching in only a tiny part,suggesting OAL length isnt far off....would it be feasible/safe/worthwhile to run already sized case into say a .308 FLR die ,with the guts/expander button rod removed and just bump shoulder a tiny bit...and yes I know its 17 VS 20 degrees a 30/06 die would strike same issue of being too long,thus thinking shorter case die...
I would hope once fired brass,fired in this rifle may solve issue all on its own by being closer to desired size for future reloading,just pondering possibilities.
thoughts????
Back into it today. First up was to run a case through with the guts of the die removed. Basically overcooked it and overshot the bump by three thou. Words fail me.
So went full engineer and analysed the press action first. What I found was that the linkage was hitting the timber faceboard on the bench and giving me an inconsistent stop. These presses don’t cam over, they have a hard stop built in, so ripped it off the bench, got out the Makita multi tool, enlarged the cutout, added a tidy galv steel faceplate and remounted the press. Felt better full stroke instantly.
Attachment 202894
Another thing I noticed was that when die is set up to contact the shell holder, they do not contact when running a case through. Don’t know what that’s about but either way, I jigged around, fine adjusting and managed to achieve a positive result. Ran half a dozen cases through and got consistent sizing and cases chambering nicely.
On my hit list tomorrow is to thread lock the breech lock adapter into the press. Has far too much slop for my liking and I think it’s adding to my issues. It’s a great press, the ram is super smooth, but I have my reservations about the above. Will also consider buying another set of 270 dies at some stage but will probably take up Ryans offer and try a another first.
So, finish running cases through then on to working on bullet seating depth before I prime.
Happy days all, Sidetrack
beauty.......yip my .308 dies were a mongrel to try and get the two bits to connect.... sounds like you are on to it.
also I see your handle has been hitting bench????...loosen the nut/bolt closest to you and pull handle back in /up just a wee bit and retighten .
Excellent! I had a feeling it was something simple all along, but hey, going through the process has given you a far greater understanding, well done. And look forward to further updates and pictures of targets with tiny wee groups.
there is a older lee press sitting spare in my reloading room,its the older prefancypantslooseygoosey style so die screws directly into the body of press frame.... bulky item to post but if needed we can see what can be done.
cant see a user of the mighty .270w stuck.
see how you get on with your new locked in bits ,its there if you need it.
Handle is just short of bench. These things are good for up to 50BMG but it makes for a long stoke!!! Needed to push it as far forward as pos to raise it up from the bottom. Changed it as well today.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
I also measured the web as suggested but all was fine. The die seems to leave the case looking like that.
Thank you, will definitely file that away for the future.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Thinking of seating bullets 10 thou. back from the lands. Given it fits the mag well, is this a good starting point for the 270??
I wouldnt have the foggiest ...if it fits in the magazine,feeds well and chambers well....and shoots well...who really cares how far off the lands it is??? I did try seating NBT130s out to lands once...the ywere barely in the case and no way would fit in magazine...gave up on that idea... my howa doesnt care...neither did the winchester...seriously I mean it doesnt care at all...the first 11 rounds were three different types of factory loads and still went into just over an inch..... that told me right from get go to just load em up and enjoy using rifle....the 12th and 13th rounds both took a deer LOL.
Yea, from what I’ve been reading, the 270 is not that fussy when it comes to seating depth. I don’t have any factory rounds here but I’ll check OAL on a couple of reloads that I have that feed and chamber nicely and use that as a starting point. Just wanted to get my head around the process as I’ll be digging deeper into this with the 260 later on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
The 270 seems to be pretty tolerant on a lot of things, seating depth included. Try it and let us know. Once you've found that load that just seems to work, then its time to start playing with the variables if you want to tighten it up. But only one variable at a time.
I think I have my bullet seating sorted. Didn’t seem too difficult. Ended up with about 30 thou to the lands using the black marker method and a COAL of 3.310” which is smack in the middle of the book values for the Sierra 130gn SBTs at 3.300” and the Nosler 130gn Ballistic Tip at 3.320”. Have more than caliber seating depth so should be all ready to progress to priming, powder charge as per MDs recommendation, and bullet seating.
Anything else to consider before I proceed on these last steps?
Calm shooting days are few and far between at the moment so need to be ready for the next one. It’s a cracker one today so a reminder to me to complete the initial loads for testing. Had a run on visitors so doing the decent thing and not hiding out in the shed.
Ready to rock and roll. Nice to have that satisfied feeling even at this early stage and looking forward to punching holes the next calm day. At least the suns been out the last couple of days, just a wind sharp enough to cut bread.
Next post will be targets. Cheers all.
Attachment 203449Attachment 203450
What OAL are you running with?
3.310”Quote:
Originally Posted by charliehorse
Sorry now see that above:oh noes: must have been the angle I thought they were unusually long
Stop trickling, get a powder measure (Latest Lee Deluxe one is good, get the stand too), learn to use it properly with a beam balance scale and not the small electronic ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidetrack
Thank me later!
Like these!!Quote:
Originally Posted by caberslash
Attachment 203768
I did use them to check accuracy of the electronic and will continue to use them in the future. I have to say the Hornady G3 is an excellent scale. Accurate, responsive, always returns to zero, no drift and I just used a powder scoop till I was within 1-2gns then trickled the last wee bit.
I spent some time setting up the area for them to avoid the environmental issues that effect scale operation and have quite a bit of experience using both types despite being completely new to reloading. Tried to keep to the point on this thread without going into my life history so apologies if I’m short on details.
I have considered getting a powder thrower and see the advantages of one. I’m just at the stage of taking my time and keeping it as simple as possible. Will reassess as time progresses.
Thank you for your input.
I have two powder throwers,both VERY accurate,and to be completely 100% honest,unless Im doing more than 30-40 rounds in a session,they do not get used.now the plastic LEE spoons under the bench however..same theory just old technology...or should that read???zero mechanical technology?? get used all the time,pick spoon below and trickle up to weight....or if using trail boss...just scoop and dump in case..... throwers are nice,but for small batches,the time taken to set them up,them empty them out again is worth about 6-8 loads already done using spoons.
throwers are awesome with ball powder but can suck with AR2206h logs of powder....its not uncommon to get a crunch every 4th or 5th cycle...which results in a check weighing anyway.....
Well, today was nothing if not instructional. Started off with a lovely day at the beach till I went to chamber a round.
Attachment 203839
As you can see from the following photo my issue is clear.
Attachment 203840
Why did I did not see this I don’t know. My initial dummy round, unmarked, looked and chambered fine but pretty much all the rest, bar one, have varying degrees of of donut syndrome. On closer inspection even my initial dummy round shows signs of swelling on the neck, clearly showing the bullet impression and looking back at the previous photo of the completed rounds, the fault is plainly visible.
Obviously the necks are way too tight and what I had thought was minimal pressure to seat them was totally incorrect. The only indication I probably had at the time was that I had to hold the bullet on top of the case as it went up into the die and thought that odd but dismissed my concerns.
So, a number of things going through my mind but will just stop thinking now and absorb some feedback if you all wouldn’t mind.
I wonder if your cases are too long or perhaps there is no or insufficient chamfer. I would check the dia of those projectiles as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidetrack
GPM.
PS lOA needs checking as well.
This looks an awful lot like your seating die is set too low in the press. The marks on the case mouth could indicate that it is contacting with the crimping part internally.
If your seating die is still set up in the press go and run a scrap case with no primer powder or bullet in it up into the die until the handle stops. If the neck comes out munched and squashed you have your answer.
Most seating die instructions suggest to put an empty case in the shellholder and raise the press handle. Then back the seating adjustment right off and wind the die body down into the press. At some point the crimping function will contact the case mouth - at this point back the die out one full rotation and nip the lockring. Now you can go ahead and adjust your projectile seating depth.
Case lengths were all under book value and but received a light skim to tidy up. Chamfered and deburred but only minimally so am now doubtful I chamfered enough. How much is enough?Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpamac
Will run a check measurement on projectiles as well .
IOA??
Cheers.
Did setup up the die for non crimping but this makes sense to me. I may have missed the critical step of not winding out the die enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelisreal
Will run through this again. Thank you.
Looks like your seating die is set too low. I run mine by hand down to a trimmed and ready case, then 1 full turn back. On occasions I have run it 2 turns back for loads for other shooters or long cases etc. And I've seen others reloading without trimming, or chamfering and they still reload fine, and shoot fine. The chamfer really is just to take the sharp edge off.
One question. Is this brass recoverable or do I bin it?
If they can be chambered they can be fired and this will push the brass back out to match the chamber, with one proviso, that the brass has not had the shoulder pushed back making it short. When this happens the firing pin strikes the primer, ignites it and drives the case forward, the brass expands as the powder ignites and grips the chamber wall. The case stretches backward toward the bolt and separates (splits). If your cases chamber firmly they can be firedQuote:
Originally Posted by Sidetrack
Did you check to see if your cases are close to the same length and chamber in your rifle before loading them?
Set your seating based on your longest case?
Did you chamfer the inside case mouth?
If not you should do. Looks like you either have some long cases or screw the seating die down a little to far.
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