.4 of a grain is 61.4 times able to be fitted into a 24.5grain load...so its ?????? 100 devided by 61.4 = sweet fark all %
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.4 of a grain is 61.4 times able to be fitted into a 24.5grain load...so its ?????? 100 devided by 61.4 = sweet fark all %
Depends what you’re objective is. For a hunting set-up, it’s probably not necessary to continue with the chronograph during seating depth test. But it is worth knowing that your velocity may change with seating depth as internal volume changes and your ES/SDQuote:
Originally Posted by Rated M for Magnum
I look for where several groups with low ES/SD coincide with small group size. It’s easy to get sucked in by a single spectacularly small group and ignore the so-so ES/SD, but this is unlikely to consistently hold-up at distance.
I run a tuner-brake on my match rifle. The weight is maybe 50-75grams and only 1/8th of a turn will take the load out of tune on a 26” Medium Palma contour barrel (barrel weighs 3kg). So the effect of the MS on your groups versus without, is very real.
and if .4 is the most you have ever been able to get...you will normally/usually be getting an error that is less than 0.4 again sweet fark all %
if you use a powder thrower for say 100 loads...your difference between one load and the next will be minimal and wont make enough difference to matter your state of heart beat could well change impact more....
I firmly believe you are over thinking this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowgrass
That is an example of inaccurate span that I mentioned earlier. In theory and most likely in practice it won't affect outputs but double weighing will confirm this.
Most instrumentation has this phenomenon, many car speedos are accurate at ~20kph but out by ~10% by the time they are up to 80kph. On some instrumentation equipment it is adjustable so some extent and on some not.
The only fix here would be to alter the pitch of the thread by 2/5 of 3/8 of !@$# all, too much hassle and likely not effective in the end, just something you have to live with.
One possible fix for the slide weight situation though is to gently loosen the screw on the right and move the washer under the screw so that it engages with the beam notch 'floors'. From what you are saying, the washer could be set high and hitting the notch 'walls' thereby allowing the beam slide weight to move slightly within the notches.
One other area for improvement would be to bend the wire that the pan hangs from so the top hook hangs more vertically. At the wide curve level with the top of the pan would be best, just make the curve a bit wider. As things are currently it looks like the hook has potential to slide side to side in the hanging loop. If it slides to the right this would show a heavier charge then what there is and to the left will give a lighter charge. You will be able to judge if it can slide as it is, it is hard to judge from a photo.
Good observations, I hadn’t looked at the pan mounting. If I got really enthusiastic I could screw the brass screw the weight is on out a fraction but I’m sure it’s got locktight from a quick test so don’t want to damage anything for no real gain. I’ll get hold of some check weights which should negate any deviations on the beam balance weight by checking each time it’s moved.Quote:
Originally Posted by longshot
Adjustment of the screw to align the 10 will misalign the zero. If you could adjust it you would be looking for a happy medium where it’s out a bit at both ends and not noticeable (it would be out by the amount it’s out at the 5 grain mark, but it would be by this much at zero and ten and aligned at .5Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowgrass
As I said the only fix is to adjust the thread pitch (impossible to do properly).
The one other option is to peel off the sticker with the 10-0 measurement, photocopy it and scale it up by a cats whisker so that the drum aligns. Not that you would want to bother.
Where does Erik suggest this? I've just had a quick skim through some videos but couldn't find this.Quote:
Originally Posted by gqhoon
Looking for MV flat spots when your ES is ~80 FPS is a waste of time. In my experience most "flat spots" are a product of load variance and measurement error and aren't typically repeatable.
Looking for vertical on target (and choosing a charge that has low vertical variance compared to charges either side) makes sense, to understand what the barrel harmonic is doing.
Not saying they were flukes, nor would I say that about anyone's groups ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentman
I do not own a magnetospeed but have seen feedback from people who have used them saying that the point of impact can change with it fitted vs it being off and the potential for it to alter barrel harmonics. The reason I suggested the removal when testing group size was to eliminate this potential variable. Also so that only group size is being measured as the velocity had already been established.
That is very interesting that it has not altered group sizes in your tests, thank you for sharing your experience :)
It is literally the basis of his load development process. From his website, copied and paste below:Quote:
Originally Posted by chalkeye
Load Tuning:
Powder charge/Primer testing:
1. Select 2-3 primers to test
2. Select powder to test (one powder only)
3. Find safe starting load for powder in your rifle
4. Find jam and seat bullet Jam -0.020” or shorter depending on your needs
5. Load 10 rounds of each powder/primer combo in 1% increments (about 0.2 gr)
6. Shoot them from low to high and stop if you see pressure signs.
a. Flattened primers
b. Gas leakage around primer
c. Heave bolt lift
d. Etc.
7. Graph the speed results and find flat spots on speed. Select the one that suits your needs best.
8. Load rounds to middle of flat spot and do seating depth test in 0.003” increments seating deeper into case with each group. Find the load that shoots the best.
9. Tuner testing: If you have a tuner, you can skip step #8 and move straight to tuner testing. Find a settings that give you two consecutive small groups and set tuner to middle of those settings.
10. Once you are done with seating depth test, load the best seating depth test and load your target powder charge and also load .2, .4, and .6 gr. above and below your current powder charge and test. Shoot groups from low to high, if you encounter pressure signs, stop.
11. You should now have a very stable load. If your load has low ES/SD and shoots small groups at 100 yards, then it will shoot at long range. If it doesn’t shoot at long range, then you need to sort your bullets. Easiest way to sort them is base to tip. Other ways is to sort base to ogive.
12. Buy quality bullets: Start with Berger bullets, which are proven to shoot well. Once you get Berger bullets shooting well, you can experiment with other bullets if you wish.
13. The same goes for good brass. Start with Lapua if you can, as it is proven to be very consistent brass.
A couple of times ive faffed all day making .75s down to .25s and then got down to my pulled 'bent' barrel warmers and then shot a pinhole group. It does your head in tbh. Some of that is random luck but some is just being relaxed and not placing pressure on yourself.
Thanks. That must be from the membership content area? I still can't find it anywhere online.
Regardless, I stand by my point that most people aren't controlling MV tight enough to gather meaningful "flat spot" insights. Erik might be an exception but I've not seen the data.
