Getting rid of crimped primer pockets?

I have a few hundred ADI .223 cases with crimped primer pockets which I need to sort out for reloading so I thought I’d ask those who have been down this path what they have tried?

I know you can just use your case deburring tool to get rid of the crimp but wanted to know what effect that might have on the primer when reloaded, fired, pressures etc... pros and cons for this method?

The other method is to get a primer pocket swaging tool such as a Dillon but their expensive for what I’m wanting or get a die set that fits on my press for a lot less... again what are the pros and cons?

I cut the crimp out using one of 2 methods :

1) Deburring tool chucked in a lathe.
2) Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer - prt no 390750. Made a depth stop collar for this one.

If you don't have a lathe, you could rig up a drill in a vice and clamp the trigger on slow speed setting. The usual "this could hurt you" warnings apply :D

Greetings Seventenths,
I use a Lyman primer pocket reamer for .223, .308 and .303 (not the Berdan Primed cases). I have used a RCBS swaging tool in the past. I prefer the reamer. You will still get the odd case that the primer is still a little hard to seat but waggling the case a bit usually gets over this. For decapping I use a Lee punch and base set with light hammer blows rather than trying to get it done with one smack.
Regards Grandpamac.

I use the case deburring tool...milserp .223 and some hornady once fired .308 and .270....think they mustve started crimping the superpreformance stuff and just kept going...a quick whirl sorts it and sure makes seating primers a breaze,its like boattail Vs flat base...there is no check before slipping in...never seen any adverse effects at all..never had one fall out or burst or anything diferent to non deburred.

I had a bunch of ADI brass and like Micky Duck just used the case deburring tool once I'd removed the old primers. Occasionally you might find a case that offers up a be of extra tension when placing the new primers however I've never had an issue putting them in and I've never had one fall out.

With ADI brass I do find it doesn't last as long as other brass. I've decided to retire mine after 4 reloads. I've experienced split cases after 5 or 6 reloads and I'm not keen on that at all... these photos show the stages towards separation:

Attachment 148214

My loads are not hot either - around 2940 fps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by planenutz

I had a bunch of ADI brass and like Micky Duck just used the case deburring tool once I'd removed the old primers. Occasionally you might find a case that offers up a be of extra tension when placing the new primers however I've never had an issue putting them in and I've never had one fall out.

With ADI brass I do find it doesn't last as long as other brass. I've decided to retire mine after 4 reloads. I've experienced split cases after 5 or 6 reloads and I'm not keen on that at all... these photos show the stages towards separation:

Attachment 148214

My loads are not hot either - around 2940 fps.

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Greetings Planenutz,
It's not pressure that is cracking the cases, it's excess headspace. Assuming you are starting with new brass, or cases fired once in your rifle, the cases are being full length sized too much creating the problem. Try backing the full length die away from the shell holder and then size them a little more each time until they just chamber. Lock your die at that setting and that should fix the problem. I know the die makers tell us to screw the die down hard on the shell holder, as I used to, but this can cause problems if the chamber is on the maximum side. I think I can see the beginning of a stretch mark on case 2 and definitely on case 3.
Regards Grandpamac.

To take out the crimp I scraped it with my trusty Swiss Army Knife (the big blade). Also, used the neck deburring tool on some others. I have not noticed any reloading/firing difference in cases de-crimped this way and cases that have not had a primer crimp.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings Planenutz,
It's not pressure that is cracking the cases, it's excess headspace. Assuming you are starting with new brass, or cases fired once in your rifle, the cases are being full length sized too much creating the problem. Try backing the full length die away from the shell holder and then size them a little more each time until they just chamber. Lock your die at that setting and that should fix the problem. I know the die makers tell us to screw the die down hard on the shell holder, as I used to, but this can cause problems if the chamber is on the maximum side. I think I can see the beginning of a stretch mark on case 2 and definitely on case 3.
Regards Grandpamac.

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Yep what Grandpamac said, I would say !

Cheers guys :)

I’ve gone down the path of deburring the primer pockets to get rid of the crimp which is certainly a better cost effective way.

I had a look at the bag of cases and would say there’s a good 800-1000 cases to be sorted and deburred

On a side note dies anyone who who makes .223 cases head stamped “PERFECTA”?

fiochi make perfecta...according to uncle google.

How many?
I can setup the processing machine and swage them if there is enough call


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings Planenutz,
It's not pressure that is cracking the cases, it's excess headspace. Assuming you are starting with new brass, or cases fired once in your rifle, the cases are being full length sized too much creating the problem. Try backing the full length die away from the shell holder and then size them a little more each time until they just chamber. Lock your die at that setting and that should fix the problem. I know the die makers tell us to screw the die down hard on the shell holder, as I used to, but this can cause problems if the chamber is on the maximum side. I think I can see the beginning of a stretch mark on case 2 and definitely on case 3.
Regards Grandpamac.

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A timely post - thank you @grandpamac and also to @Scout

Yes, I was aware it wasn't pressure which was doing this... my point was just that the ADI brass was not as resilient as other types. These were splitting after 5 or 6 reloads whereas other brass was still going strong after 7 or 8 reloads.

That said, I really appreciate your comments and advice as I had a bunch of questions I was going to put into a PM and this has served to give me time to pause and rethink some of the questions. So thanks for that, I appreciate it. Don't be surprised if you hear from me in the near future.

:thumbsup:

@Seventenths, find someone local with a dillon 600 super swage. Easy set up, and won't take long

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spanners

How many?
I can setup the processing machine and swage them if there is enough call


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Extremely kind and generous offer! :thumbsup:

ALOT of brass... I thought it was all one brand but I need to sort through it for ADI, Hornady, Perfecta and some PPU

I'll sort it out first and see how much actually needs the crimp removed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tommy

@Seventenths, find someone local with a dillon 600 super swage. Easy set up, and won't take long

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What the man said. Have done about 5k ADI brass with it.Uniform it after with a Sinclair primer pocket uniformer but not before swaging it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by planenutz

I had a bunch of ADI brass and like Micky Duck just used the case deburring tool once I'd removed the old primers. Occasionally you might find a case that offers up a be of extra tension when placing the new primers however I've never had an issue putting them in and I've never had one fall out.

With ADI brass I do find it doesn't last as long as other brass. I've decided to retire mine after 4 reloads. I've experienced split cases after 5 or 6 reloads and I'm not keen on that at all... these photos show the stages towards separation:

Attachment 148214

My loads are not hot either - around 2940 fps.

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Never had this problem and I have done heaps of reloads thru ADI brass. Before I get cussed, annealing is the voodoo. Magic process. My 2C.

I’ve modified this for brass processing


https://youtu.be/-2uPRqlpA_A


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ADI brass lasts pretty well in my experience also.

I have done both, swaging and reaming. I'd say swaging is a lot faster. I use the RCBS kit on a single stage.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by planenutz

I had a bunch of ADI brass and like Micky Duck just used the case deburring tool once I'd removed the old primers. Occasionally you might find a case that offers up a be of extra tension when placing the new primers however I've never had an issue putting them in and I've never had one fall out.

With ADI brass I do find it doesn't last as long as other brass. I've decided to retire mine after 4 reloads. I've experienced split cases after 5 or 6 reloads and I'm not keen on that at all... these photos show the stages towards separation:

Attachment 148214

My loads are not hot either - around 2940 fps.

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I've had this happen with adi brass when i tried reloading some belmont black cases. Evidently they were reloaded from salvaged military brass most likely from machine gun practice. Two out of 25 separated in the die which was annoying.
I have shot 1000s of rounds of this stuff with never an issue in semis (remember them) and bolt guns with no poblem but that taught me to leave the brass where it fell.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wanneroo

I have done both, swaging and reaming. I'd say swaging is a lot faster. I use the RCBS kit on a single stage.

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I imported a swaging kit and was somewhat disappointed. The outer rim left on the pockets was still very tight/square, to the point where maybe one in five primers were getting sideways and crushed. Ended up needing to still use the chamfering tool on them all

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 6x47

I imported a swaging kit and was somewhat disappointed. The outer rim left on the pockets was still very tight/square, to the point where maybe one in five primers were getting sideways and crushed. Ended up needing to still use the chamfering tool on them all

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Greetings 6x47,
That was my experience as well. I reamed cases that I had swaged with a borrowed kit which improved seating ease. Still not perfect with every case but much better.
Grandpamac.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 6x47

I imported a swaging kit and was somewhat disappointed. The outer rim left on the pockets was still very tight/square, to the point where maybe one in five primers were getting sideways and crushed. Ended up needing to still use the chamfering tool on them all

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I've never had a problem and use a lot of military brass. I don't know if it was your issue or not but I do know with the RCBS kit you had to set it up exactly as they say in the instructions and sometimes there is a little force involved.

Believe me, it wasn't for lack of experimentation on the setup. In the end, I found using a primer pocket uniformer then the chamfering tool gave the best results.

Here's a Lyman version of the Sinclair ones I use:
https://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...prod44715.aspx

I've used all the tricks, Dillon super swage has given me the best result. I have an RCBS swaging die and shell plate set I'd sell if you were interested in that.

Today I bought the Lee APP press along with their swaging kit for it, so we will see how that all works. Also bought the extra case feeder as well. Looks like it should speed up some of these boring tasks like depriming and swaging.

Another vote for the RCBS swaging tool on a single stage press. I use it on the little Lee press. Once I get it set up and in the swing of it it goes pretty fast and very reliable. I started out reaming but without a lathe or decent drill press set up with stops I worried about uniformity. It was bloody hard on the hands after the first hundred or so. Also reaming removes metal, swaging presses it back to where it was before the crimp was made. FYI I bought my RCBS in NZ and it came with the one ram sleeve to fit the older smaller dia SS press rams. I have a Lee Cast press with the fat ram also. I wrote to RCBS signing off with my address, explained the prob, a few weeks later a sleeve to fit the fat ram arrived no charge. I think they are shipped with both sleeves now so mine was prob old stock. The sleeve or cup acts to lift the swaged brass off the swaging nipple.

have used a craft knife in the past, dillion 1050 press is the gold standard for removing in my experience-never think about them again