Thread: Grouping

Zeroing at 100 is perfectly fine, in fact preferable. What problem did you have as a result of it?

Originally Posted by gimp

Zeroing at 100 is perfectly fine, in fact preferable. What problem did you have as a result of it?

Because never going out to 200-300 . I never seen the the point in correcting a slight left or right from centre . Thinking it's only 15 mm left but getting out it gets out of hand . Seemed more than 30mm .

Originally Posted by Munsey

Because never going out to 200-300 . I never seen the the point in correcting a slight left or right from centre . Thinking it's only 15 mm left but getting out it gets out of hand . Seemed more than 30mm .

The problem with zeroing at longer ranges is it introduces more variables. Wind comes into it more for one. As do temperatures and drift and all kinds of other things.

The reason pretty much everyone zeros at 50-100m is to take as many variables out of it as possible.

I've tried zero'ing further and it does your fucking head in. You're forever adjusting to try and correct a problem that doesn't exist in the first place in my opinion.

I set mine up at 100m, but I set it up to fire 1.5" high at 100m, which is a zero of 200 yards according to my ballistics app. It also makes the holdovers on my reticle line up at 300 yards, 400 yards, 450 yards and 500 yards (at 15x zoom). And my rangefinder is in yards of course.

Originally Posted by gimp

Zeroing at 100 is perfectly fine, in fact preferable. What problem did you have as a result of it?

That would be if you're a dial twidler would it not? Personally, not being one of the former, I've always sighted in at 200m and never had any problems out to 300m with a 7mm/08 and .308 which is about as far as I'm prepared to shoot, with the odd exception. I'd do the same with a .270 if I owned one.

I suppose it depends on the country you're usually hunting in and what cartridge you're using.

Originally Posted by 10-Ring

That would be if you're a dial twidler would it not? Personally, not being one of the former, I've always sighted in at 200m and never had any problems out to 300m with a 7mm/08 and .308 which is about as far as I'm prepared to shoot, with the odd exception. I'd do the same with a .270 if I owned one.

I suppose it depends on the country you're usually hunting in and what cartridge you're using.

If a bush hunter or shooting 0-200m biggest percentage of time sighting in at 100m is perfered. Dial up or using ballisictic plex 100m is perfered also.

Originally Posted by deer243

If a bush hunter or shooting 0-200m biggest percentage of time

sighting in at 100m is perfered.

I agree if your shots are going to be 150m or less, preferably even 100m or less like most bush hunters would encounter.

The draw back to using a 100m zero though is that if you see the odd deer at say 300m there is about a 38cm drop. With a 200m zero it's around 5cm high at a 100m and that's not going to cause any misses. At 300m there is a 20cm drop which just means a hold on the spine or just below.

Using some common cartridges zeroed in yards.

260 Rem - 140gr

100 Yards +2.7”
150 Yards +2.9”
200 Yards +1.7”
250 Yards +1.0”
300 Yards ‐5.5”

.270 Win - 130gr

100 Yards +2.6”
150 Yards +3.0”
200 Yards +2.0”
250 Yards Zero
300 Yards ‐3.75”

7mm/08 Rem - 140gr

100 Yards +2.7”
150 Yards +3.0”
200 Yards +1.9”
250 Yards +0.6”
300 Yards ‐4.8”

308 Win - 150gr

100 Yards +2.7”
150 Yards +2.9”
200 Yards +1.7”
250 Yards ‐1.2”
300 Yards ‐5.8”

Originally Posted by deer243

.....Dial up or using ballisictic plex 100m is perfered also.

Yes for dial up. Each to their own but I personally don't have much faith in ballistic plex reticles for judging distance. Animals come in different sizes.