Thread: How do you measure temperature when annealing cases?

Curious what works for others, I have tried the infrared temperature gun but it reflects off the brass and gives wild readings.

I use tempilaq, think its the 750°F one.

Tempilaq is what I use. As wsm says, the 750 degree F code, and maybe a lower temperature
code for total security about where the heat is going on the cases.

You don't need to.
Do it in more or less dark.
Stop when it's dark bluish to dull red.
No need to quench. Watch all of this.

https://youtu.be/2yOtCQsfJhU?si=98B5kDIi7oHRH55v

The Cortina video's led me to believe there is more leeway with temperature than some might suggest (before the brass turns to jelly).

For low volume stuff I found the dark room method works well enough without knowing the specific temp. Think it just needs enough targeted heat to keep the annealing limited to the shoulder/neck junction.

I have quite a bit of Lapua brass to anneal and I want to get it right because of how pricey the cases are, so would rather not eyeball it. Has anyone found tempilaq in stock in NZ recently?

I have some I used to sell on here, 750 and 800 IIRC, it might need to be revived. PM me if you want some and I can dig it out.

When I was using a gas annealer I used 2 different temperature lacquers. The higher temp one on the shoulder neck junction and a lower temp one painted between the shoulder neck junction and the base. It's one thing to get the correct temperature at the shoulder neck junction but obviously important to not have that temperature travel too far down the case.

I used a product called Omegalaq which does exactly the same job as Tempilaq. It is also hard to source, mine came ex USA back in the days when shipping was a lot more reasonably.

You'll freak out if using an AMP induction annealer as you have to sacrifice one of your expensive cases to exstablish its annealing characteristics. Strangely, the last 2 boxes of Lapua brass I bought had 101 cases.

I stopped watching Cortina ages ago.

Originally Posted by tommygun

I have quite a bit of Lapua brass to anneal and I want to get it right because of how pricey the cases are, so would rather not eyeball it. Has anyone found tempilaq in stock in NZ recently?

There is a bloke in wellington that can do it for you, induction annealing. He is good to deal with as well

https://tenpointone.co.nz/collection...tion-annealing

Just about everyone ive talked to in person doesnt even know what tempilac is.

I always destroy at least three cases with my AMP

Usually have a case or two that have been "hurt" chasing the limit so you know where it is & can back off a grain or so from there

With the new Lapua carboard packaging there are no "spares"

This extract may help, it's a bit of a read!

Post in thread 'Induction brass annealer redux' https://forum.accurateshooter.com/th.../post-38978186

Just read the bit posted by region rat.

Originally Posted by blip

Just about everyone ive talked to in person doesnt even know what tempilac is.

I had the same issue a few years ago thankfully Wilson’s has an amp now days so that solved that problem for me

With eyeometry. It is not a difficult exercise. Alternatively use the counting method.

Originally Posted by tommygun

I have quite a bit of Lapua brass to anneal and I want to get it right because of how pricey the cases are, so would rather not eyeball it. Has anyone found tempilaq in stock in NZ recently?

I wouldn't chance flame annealing with expensive brass.
End of story.
Get it done properly with induction AMP

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