Thread: How do you measure temperature when annealing cases?

Originally Posted by TeRei

With eyeometry. It is not a difficult exercise. Alternatively use the counting method.

This, I usually turn the light off and count to either 6 or 7 seconds spinning the brass in a socket attach to the drill, you dont want red hot brass

Originally Posted by tommygun

I have quite a bit of Lapua brass to anneal and I want to get it right because of how pricey the cases are, so would rather not eyeball it. Has anyone found tempilaq in stock in NZ recently?

there is an annealing service on TM

I gas torch anneal and AMP anneal and personally im not seeing a difference. 6mm creedmoor and 6.5prc same brass, components and load to compare as i anneal every loading.
I've managed to burn my fingers with both, so maybe I'm just not smart enough to notice a difference anyway

Annealing in factory is with lpg

Originally Posted by Roarless20

I gas torch anneal and AMP anneal and personally im not seeing a difference. 6mm creedmoor and 6.5prc same brass, components and load to compare as i anneal every loading.
I've managed to burn my fingers with both, so maybe I'm just not smart enough to notice a difference anyway

Yea its about temp not what you do it with. You want to heat it fast so the heat doesnt travel all the way down to the web

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

I wouldn't chance flame annealing with expensive brass.
End of story.
Get it done properly with induction AMP

Sent from my SM-A556E using Tapatalk

Gas is how it's done during manufacturing. And it's a long way from difficult or technical.

Originally Posted by Oldbloke

You don't need to.
Do it in more or less dark.
Stop when it's dark bluish to dull red.
No need to quench. Watch all of this.

https://youtu.be/2yOtCQsfJhU?si=98B5kDIi7oHRH55v

Yeah not sure this is quite accurate - given the differing brass manufacturers using vastly different recipes of their own brass make-ups - I also was trying this method until I got hold of Tempilaq - this then demonstrated that some brass wont glow the dull red when hitting the 750 F point, whereas others will glow alot brighter - the composition (brand ) makes a huge difference.
Just noting what Ive experienced while building and testing my annealers...

Originally Posted by tommygun

I have quite a bit of Lapua brass to anneal and I want to get it right because of how pricey the cases are, so would rather not eyeball it. Has anyone found tempilaq in stock in NZ recently?

Servotech, Albany Auckland.

Originally Posted by Oldbloke

Gas is how it's done during manufacturing. And it's a long way from difficult or technical.

Agree brands may vary a little here. But shooters have been annealing brass since cocky was an egg. And I've seen some pretty rough and ready methods advised and used. They worked.

But really we aren't sending man to Mars just annealing a bit of brass. Was taught how to do it in sheet metal class when I was 14.

As with a lot of things in life you can make it as simple or as difficult as you want, doing it the difficult way doesnt make you any smarter

Anyone annealed with a camp oven and just went off "so hot I can't hold the case anymore"????

Originally Posted by Oldbloke

Annealing in factory is with lpg

Just dont use MAPP gas. It is brutal on brass.

Originally Posted by Russian 22.

Anyone annealed with a camp oven and just went off "so hot I can't hold the case anymore"????

If you you mean a gas stove I tried it. Not hot enough.

Originally Posted by blip

As with a lot of things in life you can make it as simple or as difficult as you want, doing it the difficult way doesnt make you any smarter

We forget the old timers not blessed with the latest and greatest used to anneal by holding and twirling their brass in their fingers over a candle.*They still got good groups. Sorta like you cant shoot a deer with a 22. 2C.