Curious what works for others, I have tried the infrared temperature gun but it reflects off the brass and gives wild readings.
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Curious what works for others, I have tried the infrared temperature gun but it reflects off the brass and gives wild readings.
I use tempilaq, think its the 750°F one.
Tempilaq is what I use. As wsm says, the 750 degree F code, and maybe a lower temperature
code for total security about where the heat is going on the cases.
You don't need to.
Do it in more or less dark.
Stop when it's dark bluish to dull red.
No need to quench. Watch all of this.
https://youtu.be/2yOtCQsfJhU?si=98B5kDIi7oHRH55v
The Cortina video's led me to believe there is more leeway with temperature than some might suggest (before the brass turns to jelly).
For low volume stuff I found the dark room method works well enough without knowing the specific temp. Think it just needs enough targeted heat to keep the annealing limited to the shoulder/neck junction.
I have quite a bit of Lapua brass to anneal and I want to get it right because of how pricey the cases are, so would rather not eyeball it. Has anyone found tempilaq in stock in NZ recently?
I have some I used to sell on here, 750 and 800 IIRC, it might need to be revived. PM me if you want some and I can dig it out.
When I was using a gas annealer I used 2 different temperature lacquers. The higher temp one on the shoulder neck junction and a lower temp one painted between the shoulder neck junction and the base. It's one thing to get the correct temperature at the shoulder neck junction but obviously important to not have that temperature travel too far down the case.
I used a product called Omegalaq which does exactly the same job as Tempilaq. It is also hard to source, mine came ex USA back in the days when shipping was a lot more reasonably.
You'll freak out if using an AMP induction annealer as you have to sacrifice one of your expensive cases to exstablish its annealing characteristics. Strangely, the last 2 boxes of Lapua brass I bought had 101 cases.
I stopped watching Cortina ages ago.
There is a bloke in wellington that can do it for you, induction annealing. He is good to deal with as well :)Quote:
Originally Posted by tommygun
https://tenpointone.co.nz/collection...tion-annealing
Just about everyone ive talked to in person doesnt even know what tempilac is.
I always destroy at least three cases with my AMP :oh noes:
Usually have a case or two that have been "hurt" chasing the limit so you know where it is & can back off a grain or so from there :)
With the new Lapua carboard packaging there are no "spares" :(
This extract may help, it's a bit of a read!
Post in thread 'Induction brass annealer redux' https://forum.accurateshooter.com/th.../post-38978186
Just read the bit posted by region rat.
I had the same issue a few years ago thankfully Wilson’s has an amp now days so that solved that problem for meQuote:
Originally Posted by blip
With eyeometry. It is not a difficult exercise. Alternatively use the counting method.
I wouldn't chance flame annealing with expensive brass.Quote:
Originally Posted by tommygun
End of story.
Get it done properly with induction AMP
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This, I usually turn the light off and count to either 6 or 7 seconds spinning the brass in a socket attach to the drill, you dont want red hot brassQuote:
Originally Posted by TeRei
there is an annealing service on TMQuote:
Originally Posted by tommygun
I gas torch anneal and AMP anneal and personally im not seeing a difference. 6mm creedmoor and 6.5prc same brass, components and load to compare as i anneal every loading.
I've managed to burn my fingers with both, so maybe I'm just not smart enough to notice a difference anyway :yaeh am not durnk:
Annealing in factory is with lpg
Yea its about temp not what you do it with. You want to heat it fast so the heat doesnt travel all the way down to the webQuote:
Originally Posted by Roarless20
Gas is how it's done during manufacturing. And it's a long way from difficult or technical.Quote:
Originally Posted by andyanimal31
Yeah not sure this is quite accurate - given the differing brass manufacturers using vastly different recipes of their own brass make-ups - I also was trying this method until I got hold of Tempilaq - this then demonstrated that some brass wont glow the dull red when hitting the 750 F point, whereas others will glow alot brighter - the composition (brand ) makes a huge difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldbloke
Just noting what Ive experienced while building and testing my annealers...
Servotech, Albany Auckland.Quote:
Originally Posted by tommygun
Agree brands may vary a little here. But shooters have been annealing brass since cocky was an egg. And I've seen some pretty rough and ready methods advised and used. They worked.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldbloke
But really we aren't sending man to Mars just annealing a bit of brass. Was taught how to do it in sheet metal class when I was 14.
As with a lot of things in life you can make it as simple or as difficult as you want, doing it the difficult way doesnt make you any smarter
Anyone annealed with a camp oven and just went off "so hot I can't hold the case anymore"????
Just dont use MAPP gas. It is brutal on brass.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldbloke
If you you mean a gas stove I tried it. Not hot enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Russian 22.
We forget the old timers not blessed with the latest and greatest used to anneal by holding and twirling their brass in their fingers over a candle.*They still got good groups. Sorta like you cant shoot a deer with a 22. 2C.Quote:
Originally Posted by blip