Thread: How do you measure temperature when annealing cases?

Curious what works for others, I have tried the infrared temperature gun but it reflects off the brass and gives wild readings.

I use tempilaq, think its the 750°F one.

Tempilaq is what I use. As wsm says, the 750 degree F code, and maybe a lower temperature
code for total security about where the heat is going on the cases.

You don't need to.
Do it in more or less dark.
Stop when it's dark bluish to dull red.
No need to quench. Watch all of this.

https://youtu.be/2yOtCQsfJhU?si=98B5kDIi7oHRH55v

The Cortina video's led me to believe there is more leeway with temperature than some might suggest (before the brass turns to jelly).

For low volume stuff I found the dark room method works well enough without knowing the specific temp. Think it just needs enough targeted heat to keep the annealing limited to the shoulder/neck junction.

Originally Posted by Oldbloke

You don't need to.
Do it in more or less dark.
Stop when it's dark bluish to dull red.
No need to quench. Watch all of this.

https://youtu.be/2yOtCQsfJhU?si=98B5kDIi7oHRH55v

Yeah not sure this is quite accurate - given the differing brass manufacturers using vastly different recipes of their own brass make-ups - I also was trying this method until I got hold of Tempilaq - this then demonstrated that some brass wont glow the dull red when hitting the 750 F point, whereas others will glow alot brighter - the composition (brand ) makes a huge difference.
Just noting what Ive experienced while building and testing my annealers...

I have quite a bit of Lapua brass to anneal and I want to get it right because of how pricey the cases are, so would rather not eyeball it. Has anyone found tempilaq in stock in NZ recently?

Originally Posted by tommygun

I have quite a bit of Lapua brass to anneal and I want to get it right because of how pricey the cases are, so would rather not eyeball it. Has anyone found tempilaq in stock in NZ recently?

There is a bloke in wellington that can do it for you, induction annealing. He is good to deal with as well

https://tenpointone.co.nz/collection...tion-annealing

Originally Posted by tommygun

I have quite a bit of Lapua brass to anneal and I want to get it right because of how pricey the cases are, so would rather not eyeball it. Has anyone found tempilaq in stock in NZ recently?

I wouldn't chance flame annealing with expensive brass.
End of story.
Get it done properly with induction AMP

Sent from my SM-A556E using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

I wouldn't chance flame annealing with expensive brass.
End of story.
Get it done properly with induction AMP

Sent from my SM-A556E using Tapatalk

Gas is how it's done during manufacturing. And it's a long way from difficult or technical.

Originally Posted by Oldbloke

Gas is how it's done during manufacturing. And it's a long way from difficult or technical.

Agree brands may vary a little here. But shooters have been annealing brass since cocky was an egg. And I've seen some pretty rough and ready methods advised and used. They worked.

But really we aren't sending man to Mars just annealing a bit of brass. Was taught how to do it in sheet metal class when I was 14.

Originally Posted by tommygun

I have quite a bit of Lapua brass to anneal and I want to get it right because of how pricey the cases are, so would rather not eyeball it. Has anyone found tempilaq in stock in NZ recently?

there is an annealing service on TM

Originally Posted by tommygun

I have quite a bit of Lapua brass to anneal and I want to get it right because of how pricey the cases are, so would rather not eyeball it. Has anyone found tempilaq in stock in NZ recently?

Servotech, Albany Auckland.

I have some I used to sell on here, 750 and 800 IIRC, it might need to be revived. PM me if you want some and I can dig it out.

When I was using a gas annealer I used 2 different temperature lacquers. The higher temp one on the shoulder neck junction and a lower temp one painted between the shoulder neck junction and the base. It's one thing to get the correct temperature at the shoulder neck junction but obviously important to not have that temperature travel too far down the case.

I used a product called Omegalaq which does exactly the same job as Tempilaq. It is also hard to source, mine came ex USA back in the days when shipping was a lot more reasonably.

You'll freak out if using an AMP induction annealer as you have to sacrifice one of your expensive cases to exstablish its annealing characteristics. Strangely, the last 2 boxes of Lapua brass I bought had 101 cases.

I stopped watching Cortina ages ago.