Hi all. Will removing the decapping pin from a Lee collet die mandrel have a negative affect with the neck sizing operation in any way? Thanks
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Hi all. Will removing the decapping pin from a Lee collet die mandrel have a negative affect with the neck sizing operation in any way? Thanks
I cant see why it would, run a case through and see how the bullet seats compared to a case done prior to pin removal.
My worry is that the decapping pin might keep the mandrel aligned in the case to reduce neck runout.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40mm
I've never taken mine apart - can you remove the decapping pin without removing the whole mandrel? The die is supposed to size against the mandrel, removing it would probably result in oversizing the case, and possibly wreck your die.
Is the rifle/load dialed in now? if so then remove the pin. load some up and see how it shoots.Quote:
Originally Posted by Three O'Three
I have some dies where the pin removes from the mandrel. And others which are one piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar
I grund the decapping off, reason being so I can pull projectiles, pour the powder out, resize the neck, pour the powder back in and seat a different projectile. concentricity is good, 1 thou runout, in the Lee collect die the the centre spindal floats, that what gives you the good concentricity, so removing the decapping pin it doesn't matter. Use a universal decapping die to remove primers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Three O'Three
The decapping pin is an integral part of the mandrel - the OP is considering permanently removing it by grinding so it doesn't push out the primer. You definitely need the mandrel for it to size the neck correctly, but you can remove the decapping pin function no problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar
They're super easy to get apart - it pays to give the top surface of the collet a clean and light grease periodically for best function.
I have a second mandrel without the decapping tail. I have never given any though to using the die without a mandrel but don't imagine it would go well a all. Try running a case through without it, let us know what happens.
Mandrel was the word that escaped me, yes mandrel & collett do need cleaning & eventurally the collett will ware out, but they are a cheap die but extremely useful.
The Collet squeezes the neck arround a mandrel which im pretty sure is part of the the de capping Assembly I have no experience with these dies in particular but my reloading Nelse would tell me it would certainly effect the dies ability to work affectively ether makeing the neck too small or inconsistent
Easy way to find out
Messure the od of the neck after sizeing with the decaping Assembly in place and
Then messure one after sizeing without
If the measurements are the same your golden
Though id Suspect the Measurement without will be smaller and therefore be too much neck tension
You can buy spare mandrels, I have done this and have one without the pin on the end for the same purpose as above regarding not disturbing a live primer.
I have gone back to using full length sizing dies now but it's is still useful if you pull a round and just want to tidy up the neck.
Someone on accurateshooter (yank forum) called Lee to ask about this, grinding the decapping pin off has no negative effect.
Probably a good idea to see if you can get some undersize mandrels for more neck tension without having to lean on the press handle too hard, especially if your press is not a 'cam over' type.
Guess you would want to do this if you are resizing Berdan primed cases......
Take it apart and have a look. It won't bite. All dies need a clean occasionally or bad things start happening
While we're on the subject of collet dies. What's the best lube for the collet?
I have never used any lube with my Lee collet die. I use Inox when body sizing with my Redding die, unconventional I know but works very well and is quick n easy. I usually fold a small denim rag into about 3 or 4 layers to give it bulk, which helps it conform to the case shape, spray it with a bit of Inox, then lightly roll the case over it. If you want to use lube for neck sizing this would probably work as well as anything.
Greetings @Three O'Three and All,Quote:
Originally Posted by Three O'Three
Both the Lee Collet dies and the Lee Loader kits are noted for producing straight cases. To my mind the decapping pin on the mandrel in the Lee Collet die performs an essential part of keeping the mandrel and hence the neck straight and should never be removed. Some, but not all, conventional neck and full length sizing dies can pull the neck of line when the expander button is pulled through the neck. This can be reduced, or eliminated, by running the sizing button into the case to expand the necks as a separate step. This allows full support to the case head in the shell holder rather than just part of the rim. Adjusting the expander ball as high up in the case as possible can help as well but means you have to de cap as a separate step, something I do anyway. John Barsness did an excellent article on this in Handloader a couple of years back.
Regards Grandpamac.
PS. Many have problems with the Collet die not sizing the necks enough to grip the projectiles after a couple of loads. This is due to brass hardening and can be eliminated by annealing the necks. Many target shooters anneal case necks for every load.
GPM.
There maybe some confusion with my original question? I wasn't referring to operating a collet die without the mandrel but cutting the decapping pin off the mandrel and operating the die with a pinless mandrel some I can neck size primed cases.
For some reason people got the impression I was removing the mandel, No
Attachment 203239
There is no problem at all doing what you've done
What you did is what I was asking about. Does it affect neck sizing in any negative way like neck runout?Quote:
Originally Posted by flock
no. I take it out and dont notice any differenceQuote:
Originally Posted by Three O'Three
No, run out is 2 thousandths or less, more often 1 thousandths, which is what I expect. Even after FLRS I use the collect die to true up the run out and create even neck tension.
By the way my FLRS is Lee as well. Have had all the flash stuff Redding flrs, S bushing neck dies, neck turning on & on my concentricity got worse; I'm not shooting a Match chamber so wasted my time & money, aint nothing wrong with the Lee gear.
Not wanting to start a new thread but kinda related. I’m wanting to use my Lee FL size die on virgin brass to just ‘uniform the neck’/ remove dented case mouths without bumping the shoulders at all.
I’ve done this with Hornady dies by just running the brass up past the expander but not all the way into the die. It was quick because I didn’t have to lube or clean the whole brass casing.
With Lee dies can I just back the die off a turn? Will this still let the mandrel do its thing?
Attachment 265961
Fark it I’ll just chamfer and load em from the box
Only thing I do with new brass is make sure none of the necks have been squashed. They get run through something if that's the case... I try to only use Lapua or Norma or equivalent level brass - compare it to Hornady, Remington or Winchester and the weight differences and case length in some cases is noticeably higher in terms of variation when compared to the Euro breeds.
Yea I hear you, the last batch of lapua had quite a few dented necks but I've got some alpha on the way which claims to be packaged so it's gtg
@Three O'Three
Lubeing the collet fingers,
Might sound odd, but next time you see some dudes horizonzal drilling in town, with a ditch witch or similar ask them for a bit of grease from the pipe joins. That stuff is high pressure enfused with graphite. You only need a thimble full and just smear a little into and around where the fingers of the collet open and close. Another good idea is to polish the end of the fingers and where they sit in the cup, helps prevent them seizing and gauling.
Attachment 266411
@SPEARONZ Lapua have now gone to card board flat pack so less damage chances, bit sad really I liked the blue plastic box and the extra case you always got.
