Lubing case neck before seating

Hi all,
I've been doing a lot of reading on the net, on the topic of a case neck being "Too squeaky clean" before seating. This may make for inconsistent seating. As you know there are pros and cons no matter what the topic it is that you are researching on the net. What I have read is that it can be advantageous to have a little lube applied with a cotton bud or graphite. Apparently this may provide more smooth and consistent seating, and will help over distance with a smaller vertical strings (or some such). Now, I have absolutely no idea if this is correct or not, but I thought I'd put it out there to see if there is merit in it.
I'd be interested to know if people size before or after cleaning?
Thoughts?

I use graphite powder.
I do the sizeing after they been tumbled so the flash hole doesnt fill with media.

Lube in the case mouth in my opinion is a terrible idea neck tension is what holds the projectile and gives a consistent "start" to ignition anything that can vary that should be avoided. Having said that its unlikely to make any difference in practical hunting terms unless it affects neck tension so badly that the projectiles reset under recoil.
Boat tails seat easily flat base less so but a minute flare or chamfer fixes that.
There are moly coated bullets and moly kits available but Ive not seen any evidence that they shoot any better.

Moly powder + moisture = sulfuric acid, so I would never put that shit anywhere near my rifle.

At chamber pressures any liquid, water or lube, is going to be very bad news. Brass is liquid at these pressures.

Brass on copper will give you consistent neck tension if your brass is clean and consistent.

Like like my brass spotlessly clean before the powder and projectile goes in.

I use a plastic bore brush to clean any loose residue out from inside of the neck; that's all it needs as I only use bushing dies.

I don't think a little ultra fine graphite powder would hurt any though; especially if you use dies with an expander on the de-capping pin. You want as little friction as possible with those dies when the expander is pulled back through the neck.

On my ammo that i use for long range work, i dip the base of the projectiles in the applicator container of Graphite powder (with little balls in it) gives a fine coating of graphite on the bullet base. I believe it helps give a nice consistant bullet release from shot to shot, helping long range precision. I also think it will help to stop the bullet seising into the neck if the ammo sits for long periods of time.

Lubing the case neck won't make release any more consistent, as whatever inconsistency in neck tightness was already there, will still be there. All you did was consistently lower the hold on the projectile.

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Originally Posted by Tussock

Lubing the case neck won't make release any more consistent, as whatever inconsistency in neck tightness was already there, will still be there. All you did was consistently lower the hold on the projectile.

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The brass is all neck turned and annealed often, which have shot 3 inch group's at 1275 yards, I doubt there's much inconsistent neck tension.

Ok this is great... something else I read, which of course I have no idea about, is that sizing/trimming/chamfer before cleaning/tumbling etc may effect neck tension going through this process, and should rather be cleaned and prepped before sizing, for more consistent tension. Again this could be pig sh!t, I have no idea. What is the group's view on this?

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Originally Posted by GWH

On my ammo that i use for long range work, i dip the base of the projectiles in the applicator container of Graphite powder (with little balls in it) gives a fine coating of graphite on the bullet base. I believe it helps give a nice consistant bullet release from shot to shot, helping long range precision. I also think it will help to stop the bullet seising into the neck if the ammo sits for long periods of time.

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Where did you buy this graphite device mate? I'm sure it will provide intetesting reading. I've been trying to find the article I read, but the author had a 6 inch increase vertically compared to not putting a minute but of live in the neck.

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Originally Posted by Gerardo

Where did you buy this graphite device mate? I'm sure it will provide intetesting reading. I've been trying to find the article I read, but the author had a 6 inch increase vertically compared to not putting a minute but of live in the neck.

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https://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...prod55188.aspx

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Originally Posted by GWH

The brass is all neck turned and annealed often, which have shot 3 inch group's at 1275 yards, I doubt there's much inconsistent neck tension.

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So why did you need the lube to make it more consistent?

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Originally Posted by GWH

https://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...prod55188.aspx

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This is stuff I use...brass cleaned first, then annealed, then dipped in graphite, then light case lube. Found it works very well and the graphite saves a step of using a brush to remove inside neck lube after sizing (otherwise when you pour powder it sticks and blocks up....super annoying!).

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Originally Posted by Tussock

So why did you need the lube to make it more consistent?

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I possibly didn't but just a habit I have got into, seems to work so keep doing it

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I wash everything in fuelite before loading. I have a sonic cleaner now.

I dont clean my brass will just give it a wipe as its gets lubed. 1900 rounds so far so good.

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Originally Posted by blair993

I dont clean my brass will just give it a wipe as its gets lubed. 1900 rounds so far so good.

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What calibre out of curiosity?

260 rem 1900 rounds and 223 (about 2100 rounds)I get alot of once fired clean brass but dont clean it after that.

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Originally Posted by blair993

I dont clean my brass will just give it a wipe as its gets lubed. 1900 rounds so far so good.

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Ha, id be on my 3 or 4th barrel by 1900 rounds LOL

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@GWH . what cal? Went out to check zero (tikka 260rem) before taking the action and putting it in the standard stock and shoot 10mm group in the chassis and about 13mm in the stock but would have been smaller but adjusted the zero to bring back to the left.

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Originally Posted by blair993

@GWH . what cal? Went out to check zero (tikka 260rem) before taking the action and putting it in the standard stock and shoot 10mm group in the chassis and about 13mm in the stock but would have been smaller but adjusted the zero to bring back to the left.

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28 Nosler, got a few other cals to shoot so I don't wear it out too fast tho [emoji6]

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@GWH that'l do it.

this reloading game is complex and you are for ever learning new stuff everyday. But @GWH one bit that got me really puzzled .... why does one need to put your balls in that graphite powder ???

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Originally Posted by chainsaw

this reloading game is complex and you are for ever learning new stuff everyday. But @GWH one bit that got me really puzzled .... why does one need to put your balls in that graphite powder ???

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It never hurts to be well lubricated mate

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I bought the Redding graphite powder/balls and lube about five years ago from Sinclair International but have since seen it here in NZ but can't remember exactly where. Might of been Serious Shooters in Penrose.

I use fine Graphite Powder bought from a Bearing Engineering shop for Neck sizing only (neck dipped in and tapped against the container) and Lee resizing lubricant (use sparingly) for the case body and graphite powder for the neck when Full length sizing.
The minimal residue from the graphite powder can stay in the neck area without any negative effect.
Worked well for me in the last 10 years.

Just wondering, don't have the answer.

I have noticed some mil cartridges were seated with a tarry substance.

Does lubing the neck with grease render a cartridge (more) waterproof, or will good neck tension completely achieve this?

You don't need to buy the Sinclair kit- just get a small jar, empty about 5 shells worth of #9 shot into it and add about 1/3 tsp of Imperial Dry lube (graphite powder). Stir it round about every tenth case dipping and top it up slightly every few months. Works a treat.

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Originally Posted by Cordite

Just wondering, don't have the answer.

I have noticed some mil cartridges were seated with a tarry substance.

Does lubing the neck with grease render a cartridge (more) waterproof, or will good neck tension completely achieve this?

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May be for preservation in storage?