I neck turn all of my brass when new as I use bushing neck dies.
In my .284 and 7 RM I turn down to 14 thou’ thickness on expanded cases, which gives 2 thou’ of neck tension with a .310 bushing in my dies.
There seems to be a general opinion that neck turning is time consuming and difficult, but it’s actually quick and easy, especially using a drill. I only do it once to new brass.
You need to trim to length first so you are neck turning to the same consistent depth on each case.
I use a K&M expander mandrel then turn down and a bit into the neck/shoulder junction with the K&M turner and carbide cutter. I’m really only taking off the high points to uniform everything up and give consistent neck tension. Even in Lapua brass there is 1-1.5 thou of variance in neck thickness.
It’s also useful to have a ball micrometer like a Mitutoyo to accurately measure neck wall thickness.
Assuming your standard case prep, powder measuring, seating are all as good as can be, I think neck turning and bushing dies are the single best way to improve consistency.
Good luck.
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