Newbie minimal setup

Hi all, have been doing a bit of reading on here and other forums and watched a few videos on YT about the topic.

There is just such a vast array of options, so I thought I’d chuck out here and see if anyone was kind enough to chime in!

Forgive me if this isn’t the “right” mindset of approach to have!

As a casual / minimalist reloader:
Is “all I would need” something like the Lee Hand Press kit + a set of Dies for the calibre?
- assuming I would reload for initially only the brass fired from my rifle

Really just keen to hear what the cheapest, most direct, no-frills way of getting into it that doesn’t necessarily cost $1100+ for a kit set and then you need X, Y, Z extra tools thereafter…

Cheers in advance!

hornady "kit"
everything you need bar dies/powder etc

See if you can get a lee loader in your cal and some scales is where I started. Ive said in previous posts Ive loaded lee loaded ammo along side the same ammo for the same rifle in a press and theres no difference in the performance in my hunting rifle.

Its pretty easy to set up a low dollar reloading set.

Things you'll need
Dies
Sizing wax
Case cleaning - set up.
Powder dispensing items
Press.

Power dispencer & scale can be replaced by a powder spoon. Easy to make.

Case cleaning: get a small temo wet tumbler if you want to clean cases ot just shoot them dirty.

Press: most O-frame presses will do. Ive been loading with RCBS JR presses since forever, they are cheap and build like a tank.

See, people love spending others money. a Lee whacamole set about 50 bucks, powder, lubricant, only the bottom of the neck and shoulder for lubing, and lastly a pill to kill with and you're ready to enjoy your hunting instead of throwing money down the drain. Oops forgot the ignition switch, a primer.

The more you hunt the more you'll learn and the most meat will end up in your bag.

Thanks @SmokeyJason @blip for guys’ input; that sorts of sounds like what I was after! Good to know it won’t cost the moon.
Cheers everyone else for your guys’ responses too

You could always go Lee Loader in your calibre, it is what started me off.

Particularly if you are not loading a lot.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SmokeyJason

See, people love spending others money. a Lee whacamole set about 50 bucks, powder, lubricant, only the bottom of the neck and shoulder for lubing, and lastly a pill to kill with and you're ready to enjoy your hunting instead of throwing money down the drain. Oops forgot the ignition switch, a primer.

The more you hunt the more you'll learn and the most meat will end up in your bag.

---

As Jason says. This will work. But you really need scales as well.

I started this way but wouldn't recommend them any more.
You will up grade before long

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MyName_Jeff

Hi all, have been doing a bit of reading on here and other forums and watched a few videos on YT about the topic.

There is just such a vast array of options, so I thought I’d chuck out here and see if anyone was kind enough to chime in!

Forgive me if this isn’t the “right” mindset of approach to have!

As a casual / minimalist reloader:
Is “all I would need” something like the Lee Hand Press kit + a set of Dies for the calibre?
- assuming I would reload for initially only the brass fired from my rifle

Really just keen to hear what the cheapest, most direct, no-frills way of getting into it that doesn’t necessarily cost $1100+ for a kit set and then you need X, Y, Z extra tools thereafter…

Cheers in advance!

---

IMO this is better than the Lee classic loader. A set of Lee RGB dies will be fine. But again really need scales. Stay away from cheap electronic scales. Beams are much better.

Cheers guys, encouraging to hear that I was thinking down the right path.
Scales scales scales!

IMO buy reasonable qualiy used equipment from the start. If your patient it will be cheap to get started and better in the long run. I just cobbled my gear together and saved a lot.

You don’t need heaps of stuff to start reloading. Some can be made or purchased second hand
YOU MUST HAVE *
* “O” (best) or a solid “C” Frame 7/8” press, some come with the priming tool.
* Priming tool. Although its possible to use a punch
* Shell holders to suit the cartridge
* Dies- MUST have for each calibre. Lee RGB are the cheapest to get you started. ~$50
* Loading block(s) Buy or easy to make
* Sizing lube – Almost any oil will do. e.g. diff, oil or just buy
* Powder funnel-Must have one of these.
* In the absence of scales powder scoops will do the job. But you will need to check them if you DIY
* Components, Powder, Primers Projectiles, Cases
* Access to ADI Powder manual-for loading data. http://www.adiworldclass.com.au/data-rifle/
* Manual on how to do it or someone to show you.



Scales - A high priority. Beam or electronic. IMO beam are best. Some whinge about the lee scales? But at a pinch they do the job.
Trimmer- You need to buy one of these with each cartridge in the lee kit. But a generic one is preferred. It will do almost any cartridge, most companies sell them. There is also a cheap Lee version u can use with a drill
Powder measure. (If you load lots) Lee Perfect powder measure is abt $55. These are great
Primer pocket cleaner, Easy to make, drill or screw driver
De-burrer, A sharp pocket knife and fine file will do this if you have nothing else. Lee makes small cheap ones.
Trickler, or very tiny scoop. Or just use a 308 shell and dribble it in. Easy to make too
Vernier caliper to check case length & OAL. Dial type seem to be best value.
Tumbler- But I use the salt/vinegar/detergent solution in an ultra sonic jewelry cleaner. Brass does not need to be cleaned it's optional.

Thanks mate! This is all super useful to hear & reinforce. Appreciate the in-depth (but digestible) replies

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Oldbloke

As Jason says. This will work. But you really need scales as well.

I started this way but wouldn't recommend them any more.
You will up grade before long

---

Im still happy whacking about. After yrs of trying this and that, spending tons of time, powder and different projectiles down range ive come to the conclusion that an all round cup n core at a cheap price or a partition if you're wanting more penetration is the way to go.
After sighting in if rechecking point of aim, fire first shot and then fire another, if it's within 1/4 inch it's damn accurate, NO need for more wasting as that's all you'll need. The more shots that you fire the more can go wrong.

Greetings,
One thing not suggested and to me is essential is a mentor to guide you at first. The answers to your question will differ depending on your rifle and your needs. Tauranga has an excellent range and Deerstalkers Club which would be a good place to look for someone to help you at first. You may be able to load on their kit while you decide what you actually need. PM me if you want some specific suggestions for your needs if you would prefer.
Regards Grandpamac.

Re. scales - Lee are cheap and accurate, just a pain to use. However, you can do a few mods to improve them (add weight to make more sturdy, change magnets for improved damping, add a printed scale to improve readability). I'm always working on a shoe string budget so definitely understand the need for economy while not sacrificing quality.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SmokeyJason

Im still happy whacking about. After yrs of trying this and that, spending tons of time, powder and different projectiles down range ive come to the conclusion that an all round cup n core at a cheap price or a partition if you're wanting more penetration is the way to go.
After sighting in if rechecking point of aim, fire first shot and then fire another, if it's within 1/4 inch it's damn accurate, NO need for more wasting as that's all you'll need. The more shots that you fire the more can go wrong.

---

Jason is right, the lee classic will work and cheapest way to dip your toes into reloading
If you decide upgrade later there is always a market for them.

Nothing wrong with cup and core. I use them on fallow.
Shot sambar with inexpensive hotcores and interlocks.

Greetings Again,
This thread has awakened memories of my early handloading fumbling a little over 50 years ago. I bought a Lee loader for my .303 and was of to the races, or so I thought. My sized cases would not chamber. I bought a press and dies. Now the cases would chamber but were longer than they were before sizing. A case trimmer was next and some scales as I was using AR2201 powder. Finally some cartridges were loaded but a new problem arose. The case necks split on the second or third firing. I sold the .303 and bought a .308 which I still have.
Fast forward 40 years and another .303 crept into the safe. Cartridges are loaded with a Lee Loader. Cases chamber easily and do not stretch. Necks are annealed with a candle and don't crack. priming is with a hand tool. Powder is weighed but could be scooped which I will try. Accuracy is excellent.
So what changed? Knowledge was the difference gained over decades. This is the reason I always recomend a mentor.
GPM.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings,
One thing not suggested and to me is essential is a mentor to guide you at first. The answers to your question will differ depending on your rifle and your needs. Tauranga has an excellent range and Deerstalkers Club which would be a good place to look for someone to help you at first. You may be able to load on their kit while you decide what you actually need. PM me if you want some specific suggestions for your needs if you would prefer.
Regards Grandpamac.

---

This and the post above. There are a few nuances in reloading that you can't learn off the net.

And if you want to really use the best reloading equipment for the least amount of money, an occasional box of beers or bottle of whiskey to someone who has taken the opposite approach and bought every little doodad made for reloading, in exchange for an occasional run on their equipment is another way to go.

BYO brass, primers, powder and projectiles, and your away.

Lets face it, most reloading benches are idle more than they are busy.


The other option is to stock up large on brass and do the above in large batches for resizing, cleaning, trimming etc. Then at home, in your own time, you can load your brass and all you need for that is a priming tool, scales and a way to seat projectiles (like a hand press).