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Right then. Is it imperative that the primer pocket is spotless? I have given it a good go with the primer pocket tool and they dont come up to clean. All the solid residue comes out but they are still stained. I am using the Lee tool do i need to upgrade? Or is that ok? Cheers.
It’s fine. You will never get them spotless without tumbling.
Pome
Short answer is No
In fact you don't even need to clean the primer pocket unless the primers wont seat properly.
Take a look at any progressive press in operation and see how much primer pocket cleaning goes on.
Cheers
Pete
Awesome. Thanks alot. Pills powder and primers tomorrow ( as its pay day ).
Pome
Just sing out when you have your next question
Cheers
Pete
Depends on your level of OCD :D
For general / hunting ammo, don't bother.
I used to load bulk pistol ammo on a progressive press, never cleaned primer pockets at all, they all still went bang.
If you are into very long range or target shooting, it can't hurt. Probably more important for consistency to clean/uniform the flash hole...
Awww......i thought this was going to be a thread for asking stupid questions, I had a whole lot lined up...:)
Ask away SpudQuote:
Originally Posted by Spudattack
The next will probably be about bullet seating. If/when i hit a snag.Quote:
Originally Posted by P38
Cheers.
Test that you cant fit a projectile by hand first so neck size is good..Quote:
Originally Posted by POME
First few rounds try them in the gun. Carefully of course. Bugger when you find they wont fit after you've loaded them ...
Can you make a dummy round with no primer to check seating depth? (sorry for the dumb question, Grandparents on mothers side were English)
unsure we have modified cases and the depth tool. I reckon you could if the projectile was firm but could move as well. Then take it out measure it minus 20thou ??
Yep, no powder either. Seat it too long, hook it behind the extractor and chamber carefully. Initially you won't even get close to closing the bolt. Keep seating it deeper until you need a bit of force to close the bolt. There will be rifling marks on the projectile. Sand them off with fine steel wool/wetndry sand paper. Seat a bit deeper and repeat until you don't see the marks. Then you will be about right.Quote:
Originally Posted by sako75
Then use this round to seat your seating die. Although if you are only using one type of projectile your seating die should be set.
If I put a plastic bag over my head will I die before I stop breathingQuote:
Originally Posted by Spudattack
:D
If it was a supermarket shopping bag then you will probably die of old age after seeing all the holes in our bags by the time we get home
PomeQuote:
Originally Posted by POME
Bullet Seating can be very tricky.
P38's Tip for Easy Bullet Seating ....... Put the Projectile in the open end of the case after you have sized and added the primer and powder. ;)
Cheers
Pete
Yes make a dummy round to check bullet seating depth.Quote:
Originally Posted by sako75
Like this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kz9na...S73StTrodQESOA
Cheers
Pete
This system for determining seating depth can work well, but getting the sizing right on the case can be tricky.Quote:
Originally Posted by P38
If the pressure from the case is not correct, the barrel and lands can grip the bullet pulling it back out and giving false readings that may be too long.
Make sure you take several readings that are REPEATABLE to be sure you get the correct OAL!
+1 :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt2308
Cheers for the seating depth advice, i have that sorted now. Even so i was still a little nervous when i pulled the trigger on the first one.
So for my next dumb question. Bullet weights and types. Do lighter weight bullets have less knock down power at longer ranges? By longer ranges for me i mean up to 300m. Or are most projectiles be they soft point, ballistic tip, Hornady or Barnes 110g or 160g going to do the damage needed on deer? Is there a weight of bullet i should not go below on deer? Any recommendations are welcome.
By the way my first loads were 140g Nosler Accubond with ADI 2208 for my 7mm08.
Cheers :slow:
Pome
140's are good for deer at the range you expect to shoot over.
I'd stick with them if they are shooting good.
Cheers
Pete
That's a can of worms as we have so many different types of projectiles all designed to do something different. 0-300m just get a basic projectile designed for hunting, work up a load, sight in 3" high at 100 and shoot the hell out of it.
140 accubonds are fine up close, I've been using sierra game kings in my 708 lately, theyre working fine.
As a(very) general rule stick to the middle weights for your caliber. except monolithic projectiles like Barnes and hornady gmx which you can go lighter to get speed up because they work best at higher velocitys and out penetrate conventional bullets.
with the exception of some target and long range hunting bullets bullets like amax berger to name just a couple generally heavy bullets are more stoutly constructed and are not perhaps the best choice for our thin skinned light big game.
bullet terminal performance is affected mainly by
bullet construction and impact velocity.
out to 300y your not goin to have a huge impact velocity difference So I would be inclined to run a lightish for caliber bullet at higher speed than a heavy for flatter trajectory.
Any of the above you listed should work fine except the heavy Barnes.