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Thread: Powder coating trays

  1. #1
    Member Tertle's Avatar
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    Powder coating trays

    Still in the experimental phase, but what tray liners are you using? I’m getting uneven bubbling under the mat, ok while test runs of heavy projectiles with bigger bases, but when I get to the more slender 30 cal 257 cal 6.5 cal it’s going to be interesting

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  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Have you tried baking paper?
    takbok likes this.
    Remember the 7 “P”s; Pryor Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

  5. #5
    Member Tertle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2post View Post
    Have you tried baking paper?
    No I hadn’t! I’ll give it a try
    takbok and 2post like this.

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    Member 300CALMAN's Avatar
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    So it's Tertle's place for plastic coated lead scones and tea is it?

    What powder coating gun are you using, or just dipping?

  7. #7
    Also known as Fingers Joe_90's Avatar
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    I've just been using tin foil... not worrying about standing them all up, just a bit of a shake to flatten the pile out.

    The 30cal boolets I've been doing are for 300blk, never going to be a 200m tack driver.
    Every machine is a smoke machine,
    If you use it wrong enough.

  8. #8
    Member Tertle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300CALMAN View Post
    So it's Tertle's place for plastic coated lead scones and tea is it?

    What powder coating gun are you using, or just dipping?
    Going to be honest my scone baking is probably worse! Just rolling them in plastic no5 containers with some plastic airsoft pellets, think my heat may have been a tad high, but I’ve a fair load of lead made up to practice on!
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    Baking paper works well. I found that the bullets stick to tinfoil too much.

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    I'm using Mono Magic Foil non-stick. 5m in a roll. Been using the same piece for a while. The bullets do not stick at all.

  11. #11
    Member Driverman's Avatar
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    Your results look promising. Non stick foil will give you better heat transfer. I find 30 minutes curing after powder starts to flow gives the most consistent and hard coating

  12. #12
    Member Tertle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driverman View Post
    Your results look promising. Non stick foil will give you better heat transfer. I find 30 minutes curing after powder starts to flow gives the most consistent and hard coating
    Thanks I think I had the oven too hot and had left it in for only 20 mins…….but that’s the joy of dabbling in the dark arts, always more to learn

  13. #13
    Member NZ32's Avatar
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    Where have you guys been getting your powder coat from?

  14. #14
    Member Tertle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NZ32 View Post
    Where have you guys been getting your powder coat from?
    My first powder coat was given to me by Jeff aka the Cast Bullet kid, my latest attempt is from a post that @Driverman and @rupert made

    From Driverman
    I apply powder coat to bare bullets that have been water dropped from the mold with no other preparation.I take the bullets from the water and when dry i put them in an ice cream container(2L), spoon in 1 teaspoon of powder,put the lid on and shake for about a minute. Up and down, sideways and all over. I then pour the bullets into a piece of shade cloth and wriggle around to get rid of excess powder. I have a mini oven that has been preheated to 400 deg F. You can buy non stick foil and if you stand your bullets on this(using needle nose pliers) and then put into the preheated oven and bake for 30 minutes you will end up with fantastic bullets that glide through the sizer . If you are shooting 303 I coat 308 bullets a couple of times and get great results in my 303,s as the powder coating increases diam nicely. 7.62x39 shot in a Norinco has a sloppy bore and powder coating takes up the slack nicely. I get a 1 hole group at 100 m (except for the first bloody shot)
    I powder coat 9mm 115g 124g 125g 150g. 38 (357) (I have 23 different molds) 32 cal 98g,102g,112g. 45acp 200swc, 240gswc. 303(.312,.314) 308 (.309,.310) and 7.62x39 (5 different styles)
    I get my powder from the US but in NZ you can get non TGIC PC from Resto supplies.

    And from Rupert
    I have bought Eastwood powder from Resto (https://restosupplies.co.nz/Powder-Coating). They have several colours, including Ford Light Blue (about $25 for 225 grams), the gold standard for powder coating using the shake and bake system outlined above by Driverman. However, it is winter and I have noticed that even Ford Light Blue has been affected by the damp/cold weather, so I put the bullets in a container in the vibrator cleaner for a few minutes and the powder goes on but rather thinner than in summer (warm/dry) so I need two coats for full coverage. Maybe if you did your shake and bake inside it would be OK in the winter. Dulux sell powders of the correct type but I have not tried them yet

    Hope that helps, and yes a small bit goes a bloody long way!

  15. #15
    Member Driverman's Avatar
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    Oven temperature is critical. I use an oven thermometer to get the correct temp. Most small oven thermometers are miles out. If you are about 15deg under your powder wont cure properly.

 

 

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