will the 6.5x55 throw 140 Amax's ?? if so i can send you some to do some testing with
Printable View
will the 6.5x55 throw 140 Amax's ?? if so i can send you some to do some testing with
Thanks for the offer but I will be all right.
It doesn't have the pressure on the chart but im guessing it would be higher then normal, if so would my 6.5 handle it? its a Carl Gustav its pretty old but barrel seems to be in great nick.
I see on that chart it has AR2209 44gr using 140gr projectiles going 2620. Is that alright for my gun because I want to use 140s and that powder can be used for the .300wsm 65.5gr going 3050fps using 168gr. Does that seem ok to try first or not?
Are those loads on those charts max, how many gr down do you go down from to start with,4gr enough?
if you know the twist rate of your barrel, the length of your barrel and your muzzle velocity go to the site and run the numbers JBM
Barrel is .22" I will get the twist rate from Winchester site. Thanks for the help Mucko.
If I do happen to get to split necks or or discoloration in the brass how much do you back off?
Split necks is a chamber,die, brass thing rather than load. Brass work hardens. It stretches out to the chamber is squeezed in by a die and if full length stretched out again to final size.
Anealing can prolong case life in this instance .
Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2
Show's how much I know, That's what you guys are for until that bloody book gets its ass here. So How do you know your loading too hot?
burns your finger
Google search what ejector marks, cratered primers and flattened primers look like , they are your most basic and easily noticed pressure signs. it all depends what brass your using. I have only ever had split necks in my 204 and that is from brass fatigue I believe, they have been reloaded many times.
if you are loading the 300wsm buy norma brass. it is just over $100 for 50 pieces and is far superior to winchester at not much greater cost.
when developing loads I usually increase in .5 increments 2.5 grains below stated max. if I still haven't found decent accuracy and haven't seen pressure signs I will push past max a few grains until accuracy improves orppressure signs appear.
reloading is not by any means difficult and is only as complicated as you want to make it. just make sure you do everything right the first time and get into good habits, checking and checking again.
Oh thanks for that tip about brass. How many reloads do you average per shell?
with my 204 I'm using hornady brass which I have found to be terribly inconsistent in weight but don't really care as i can still get .2-.3 inch groups with it. they have only been neck sized and have been loaded 8 or more times.
I have loaded my wsm brass 3 times with only neck sizing. I expect to get 7? reloads.... I really don't no how many i will get.
Oh yeah cool thanks. would 6.5x55 and .308 last a little longer then wsm?
if your only neck sizing they will last a long time. even with full length sizing they will last a long time. I have never used the 6.5 so can't really comment. buy quality brass and you will be rewarded with consistency and durability. you will probably loose your brass before you wear it out haha
I have 3 batches of 300 RUM brass that is VERY different in weight - spent time weighing etc, then shot a mixed bunch with no difference in groups
I'm not convinced brass weight is of any real concern (providing you dont have massive differences in internal volume), where as neck tension is a priority
Oh you will know if the load is too hot when, your bolt jams shut after firing, you get the primer extruding into firing pin hole, primer falls out when you open bolt if it has not jammed shut precursor to this one is a bright orange flash and oily smelling smoke right in front of your face and smoke coming out everywhere it should not, Ejector marks on rim of case. No need to load hot anyway you want to load for accuracy over velocity as it will still kill what you put the crosshairs on.
Once you have read your manuals a few times let me know and I will give you some 6.5x55 data to work with that I developed and chronied for a carl gustaf I had and they were deadly accurate loads but only after you have read some manuals first and you must promise to work up to the loads if I give you that data. The barrel twist rate of your carl gustaf is 1:8.5.
Thanks, Im going out today to make some brass :)
What caliber brass are you going to make?
not really making it, just shooting off some .308 .300wsm and 6.5 so I have brass.
Ah ok generally when someone says making some brass it means they are going to make brass from a case of a different caliber, all you are doing there is "fire forming" to your chamber dimensions. You will pick up on the terminology very soon.
Thats me fucked then Smiddy, i dont learn from books never have been able to and never will most probably, i have to do something first to get to grips with it.
When i start doing it for myself i hope people are as generous with there info for me as they have been with toby.
It was a pretty good day. not sure how much we shot but got a bit of brass there now and I have no sore shoulder :)
There's the brass to start with.
Attachment 5652
Yea well go around to someone's house and watch them do it, reading a book is the same as reading the forum. The book will give you step by step instructons, where as the forum wont really. Guess your fucked then ha :ORLY:
Thats exactly why i went round to Gavins when he lived in Gore, to watch him reload.
In the same way that not everyone learns from books not everyone is willing to help others out to i spose. Just as well this forums full of good buggers!
Ive been watching heaps of videos on youtube. I dont know anyone the reloads personally
Join up with your local NZDA you are bound to find a someone there who reloads that can give you some good practical reloading lessons. Don't always trust reloading videos on you tube as some can mislead you quite a bit especially if you get a video from some cowboy reloader.
What sort of rifle is your 300 wsm?
Winchester Model 70.