Thread: Redding die instructions needed

Have got a set from a forum member a while ago in 243 but didn’t come with instructions to set them up,I have a Lee press and have always used lee dies,tried full length sizing some of my cases and seemed like I needed to lean on the arm a lot heavier to get the brass in and out of the die?i did my usual and lowered arm then screwed die in till touching the case holder then another quarter turn,am I missing something?tried google but no joy,only utube videos came up . Thanks

Annealed your brass?

Originally Posted by TeRei

Annealed your brass?

Good point, it could be your brass cases are a bit old and hardened, annealing is a good way to sort this out. Also if the brass cases are not clean, and not lubed properly, it can be sticky in the die. If the die set is rusty and too greasy inside, this can cause sticky situation too. Give them a good wash in the tumbler, anneal, lube, Good luck.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...s-dies.616482/

How far down the neck is it sizing?
Could be the Redding die has tighter dimensions than the lee.

Greetings,
Can't lay my hands on my instructions at the moment but the one thing I remember is that the dies need to be thoroughly cleaned with solvent before use to remove preservative. Decent lube is also required.
GPM.

Also.the extra bit of a turn may not be needed.if cases fit chamber without doing it. My dies all set up the same using Lee instructions.

Have a look in the tips and tricks tab on the Redding site.

Thanks that’s what I was after,seems I only need to make contact with my shell holder ,don’t need the extra quarter turn.

Originally Posted by The bomb

Thanks that’s what I was after,seems I only need to make contact with my shell holder ,don’t need the extra quarter turn.

All good

+ good lube. One-shot works for me

I use graphite on the inside (known as dry lube)
I wipe that off the outside and smear some sizing wax on (just a touch). This method will not result in a jam. That one shot stuff feels wrong imo. I have it but I don't use it much tbh. Sizing wax can be left on and it won't hurt it. Powder can stay in and it helps the seating.

What measurements are you getting off your fired brass?
I did your method on some 308 brass today and was surprised that I bumped it 6thou back. Too far imo. I just wind my FLS die out till I measure a 1-2thou bump and then move on

Originally Posted by T.FOYE

I use graphite on the inside (known as dry lube)
I wipe that off the outside and smear some sizing wax on (just a touch). This method will not result in a jam. That one shot stuff feels wrong imo. I have it but I don't use it much tbh. Sizing wax can be left on and it won't hurt it. Powder can stay in and it helps the seating.

What measurements are you getting off your fired brass?
I did your method on some 308 brass today and was surprised that I bumped it 6thou back. Too far imo. I just wind my FLS die out till I measure a 1-2thou bump and then move on

The instructions are to produce a sized case to SAAMI specs which should fit in every spec-correct SAAMI-minimum chamber. Most chambers are slightly bigger than SAAMI minimum though just to cover the factory as if they start getting rifles back because ammo from the box won't fit it's a reputation maker.

For resizing fired cases, you only need to resize so that it fits into the chamber not back to SAAMI minimums every time.

Originally Posted by T.FOYE

I use graphite on the inside (known as dry lube)
I wipe that off the outside and smear some sizing wax on (just a touch). This method will not result in a jam. That one shot stuff feels wrong imo. I have it but I don't use it much tbh. Sizing wax can be left on and it won't hurt it. Powder can stay in and it helps the seating.

What measurements are you getting off your fired brass?
I did your method on some 308 brass today and was surprised that I bumped it 6thou back. Too far imo. I just wind my FLS die out till I measure a 1-2thou bump and then move on

I use the same method, some brass are thicker than others, so your neck button could be a bit big to pull out on the way up, I had the problem with Lapua 308 brass, so you can first clean your die set indlucing the expander ball ( button) use the carbon lube on the neck of your brass before you resize and see if it makes it smoother. failing that, try some winchester brass or something thinner.
Another way is use a bushing die set to make the neck tension less when you resizing your neck, this way you can change the bushing for different brand of brass to achieve the same neck tension for different thickness of brass.
Or you can remove your neck button in the die and add a procedure of using a expander die set to open up the neck to the correct size sperately after full length resizing. This is a very good way to achive the correct neck tension and no stuck cases but adds a complete procedure and expander die and expander mandrel needed.