Thread: To reload or not reload?

The values won't be right. Just look around for used gear.Lee gear is fine. But the scales leave a lot to be desired.

RE-LOADING EQUIPMENT
You don’t need heaps of stuff to start reloading. Some can be made or purchased second hand
YOU MUST HAVE *
* “O” (best) or a solid “C” Frame 7/8” press, some come with the priming tool.
* Priming tool. Although its possible to use a punch
* Shell holders to suit the cartridge
* Dies- MUST have for each calibre. Lee RGB are the cheapest to get you started. ~$50
* Loading block(s) Buy or easy to make
* Sizing lube – Almost any oil will do. e.g. diff, engine, coco nut or Lanox
* Powder funnel-Must have one of these.
* In the absence of scales powder scoops will do the job. But you will need to check them if you DIY
* Components, Powder, Primers Projectiles, Cases
* Access to ADI Powder manual-for loading data. http://www.adiworldclass.com.au/data-rifle/
* Manual on how to do it or someone to show you. https://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Man...ing%20Manuals/
OPTIONAL or Can wait a while
Scales - A high priority. Beam or electronic. IMO beam are best. Some whinge about the lee scales? But at a pinch they do the job.
Trimmer- You need to buy one of these with each cartridge in the lee kit. But a generic one is preferred. It will do almost any cartridge, most companies sell them.
Powder measure. (If you load lots) Lee Perfect powder measure is abt $55. These are great
Primer pocket cleaner, Easy to make, drill or screw driver
De-burrer, A sharp pocket knife and fine file will do this if you have nothing else. Plumbers pipe de-burrer
Trickler, or very tiny scoop. Or just use a 308 shell and dribble it in. Easy to make too
Vernier caliper to check case length & OAL. I got away with a plastic dial caliper for years. Dial type seem to be best.
Tumbler- But I use the salt/vinegar/detergent solution in an ultra sonic jewelry cleaner.

BASIC RE-LOADING PROCEDURE

1. De-Prime
2. Clean (optional) I use an ultrasonic cleaner. Water, vinegar, detergent. Rinse and air dry
3. Visual inspection of fired cases looking for signs of pressures, case separation or neck cracking
4. Anneal every few reloads or as required.
5. Lube & lightly lube inside of neck
6. FLRS or neck size
7. Wash/clean and air dry. Or you can just wipe off the lube.
8. Trim all cases & de-bur. Every load or as required.
9. Prime.
10 Charge. I then check them all using a torch to ensure none have been missed.
11. Seat projectile and check length. (OAL)

Your best bet is to ask around at you next Nzda meeting usually the range convener will know someone that can help you out, either by reloading some for you and showing you how it's done.
Then slowly get your own gear it doesn't have to be flash to make good reloads.
My gear is well over 30 years old and still produces very accurate loads.
I help a few new guys out by teaching them how to load after we have done load development together.
You really need to have an interest in it otherwise wise get someone local to load them for you.

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Greetings @nonvegan,
From your OP it is unlikely that you will save much, if any, by going the whole hog into handloading. There is a halfway house however. Most of the heavy kit is used for case sizing and other prep. If you can do this part of the process either at the Handloaders Assn or with a buddy who has the kit then the final powder charging and projectile seating could be done just using a Lee Loader and a set of scales. Lee loaders may not be available in 6.5 Creedmoor however. Before buying anything however you need to find a mentor who can take you through all the steps. My handloading has spanned over 50 years and 40 plus of those years have been spent gradually acquiring kit and experience. Your best place to start is probably at the Handloaders Assn.
Be a bit wary of anyone that tells you that you absolutely need to do extensive and eye wateringly expensive load testing to find a magic load. They likely have barely more experience than you.
Regards Grandpamac.

Hey mate, I have just started to get back into reloading after a couple of years off. I have done one night at the handloaders range (mainly so I could join up) they look to have some nice gear and I'm sure you will be able to find some advice/help. Also acess.to a 24/7 range makes I'd really flexible. If you find it's not for you it's only a years membership and what ever components you buy. Which would be easily moved on if you decided to just stick to factory ammo.

Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings @nonvegan,
From your OP it is unlikely that you will save much, if any, by going the whole hog into handloading. There is a halfway house however. Most of the heavy kit is used for case sizing and other prep. If you can do this part of the process either at the Handloaders Assn or with a buddy who has the kit then the final powder charging and projectile seating could be done just using a Lee Loader and a set of scales. Lee loaders may not be available in 6.5 Creedmoor however. Before buying anything however you need to find a mentor who can take you through all the steps. My handloading has spanned over 50 years and 40 plus of those years have been spent gradually acquiring kit and experience. Your best place to start is probably at the Handloaders Assn.
Be a bit wary of anyone that tells you that you absolutely need to do extensive and eye wateringly expensive load testing to find a magic load. They likely have barely more experience than you.
Regards Grandpamac.

Yeh, people wear out barrels working up loads. :lol:

Some good advice there.

6.5 CM isn't listed in a Classic Lee Loader. Bugger

You may not save money but if you work up a nice load you will have acuracy, you can tailor make ammo for your riffle.

Just remember 3 shot groups are your friend

JUST DO IT!

Do you enjoy fiddly hobbies? I tried reloading once but it didn't really interest me.

For each rifle, I find a middle-of-the-range factory load that performs well. Then buy ammo by the case (200 rounds) for best price and security of supply. Sell the empty brass to offset the price.

Do it because it's fun. I have a a223 and 308, and a relatively low volume shooter, so in reality it makes no sense for me to hand load. But I do because I can use the projectiles I want....and it's fun!!!

I reload for 22-250 and .308 I don't need to as a low volume shooter but I just enjoy tinkering in the shed and its another thing to get me out there. I was lucky and got most of my gear very cheap second hand, all I have added is the dies.

It is easy to spend more on reloading gear alone than you would ever spend on factory ammo, don’t ask me how I know.

It is easy to spend more on rifles/scopes/boots etc than you would ever spend on meat from the butcher/supermarket. Don’t ask me how I know.



If you are any good at reloading, you may be loathe to buy factory ammo.

If you are any good at hunting, you may be loathe to buy meat.



Shooting with accurate reloads is very satisfying.

Sitting down to a meal of something you shot is very satisfying.



Reloading is time consuming.

Hunting is time consuming.



Most people that do a lot of reloading, mostly do it for the enjoyment.

Most people that do a lot of hunting…. you can see where I am going with all this.


You can spend large on gear or get started for relatively cheap.
The majority of loading benches in NZ would not be used more than 3-4 times per week. Team up with someone else who already has the gear, or use the NZDA club gear. Then you only need to invest in a set of dies and the rest will be consumables.

It may seem a daunting thing to learn, but just by the fact that your punctuation and spelling in your post is generally accurate, indicates you could easily learn how to reload. There is basic reloading (staying inside basic published data and making run of the mill ammunition) and the more advanced stuff (duplex loads, component substitution, subsonics, monolithic projectiles, sorting primers by weight etc). The basic reloading is an easy recipe to learn, the other stuff is something you can layer on as you gain experience and motivation.

Ultimately reloading generally doesn’t result in more money in your back pocket. It results in more range time without more cost.

Keep it simple and it won't cost you a bomb. Don't fook around striving for SuperDuper loads and it won't cost you a bomb. A simple middle of range load that's accurate and doesn't cost five bucks a pop is much nicer to use too.i like 99% of Lee reloading gear.the toothpaste like lube being the exception..plain old gasoline works great.

I shall add my 2c, change to a 308 or 243 and get a classic Lee for peanuts and you're away laughing. I load for 2 hornets and a 222, keep it simple.

Have been loading since the 70’s and couldn’t imagine not using my own loaded ammo, it’s a great past time loading, a hobby in itself and very rewarding taking animals with your roll your owns. If you shoot volumes then loading is the way to go. Rather than spending heaps to set up buy bits at a time and build up your gear then enjoy the rewards of handloading.

Use the handloaders is a great piece of advice
It will cost you peanuts compared to setting up
Then you can work out what you want vs what you need
Despite the vortex of miniscule increments you can tune your loads or the costs or the time spent or the satisfaction
There is also nothing like shooting an animal that you have planned worked hunted then shot with one of your own handloads
It is beyond compare