Reloading .357mag

Hi guys, just picking your brains before I get started. I've loaded lots of rifle ammo before but no pistol ammo. I'm thinking of using AP70N, 158gr Honady's, Starline brass but haven't decided on primers yet.

Rifle is a Henry Big Boy Carbine .357
Type of shooting.....plinking no hunting, 25-100m
Press is a Dillon XL650

My questions:

1) Any other recipes would be much appreciated particularly lever gun shooters. They must feed.
2) Any special technique over and above that for rifle? I see the cold-hot range is much tighter...more risk.
3) Standard or Magnum pistol primers, what brands?

Cheers James.

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Originally Posted by omegaspeedy

Hi guys, just picking your brains before I get started. I've loaded lots of rifle ammo before but no pistol ammo. I'm thinking of using AP70N, 158gr Honady's, Starline brass but haven't decided on primers yet.

Rifle is a Henry Big Boy Carbine .357
Type of shooting.....plinking no hunting, 25-100m
Press is a Dillon XL650

My questions:

1) Any other recipes would be much appreciated particularly lever gun shooters. They must feed.
2) Any special technique over and above that for rifle? I see the cold-hot range is much tighter...more risk.
3) Standard or Magnum pistol primers, what brands?

Cheers James.

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If just plinking there are plenty of options. And it can be done reasonably cheap.
I just use cast or jacketed 150-158 gr projectiles small rifle primers and trailboss in my pistol.
Belmont magnum is pretty good cheap powder as well for full power loads.




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If you are going with AP70 any small primer is ok magnum primers with ball powders if you want more velocity AR2205 is the one to use
158 grain cast or jacketed will be fine for most uses, I use a 166 grain cast with 7.3gr AP70 in a pistol can shoot it all day make major power factor
for IPSC, Starline brass is the best only one I buy now.

Awesome, thanks guys!! Off to get some die and resources.

There are some.357/.38 dies on TM stay away from Lee, I think there is a Lyman 4 die set I can highly recommend them very well made,

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Originally Posted by shooternz

There are some.357/.38 dies on TM stay away from Lee, I think there is a Lyman 4 die set I can highly recommend them very well made,

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I read somewhere that Lee has the best crimp die method which is pretty important with tube mag and autos. Have you found that they are no good for pistol loading? I've used them for rifle and only complaint was seating high BC target bullets where they were not seating true.

The lee crimper is the best there is I reckon, with low power loads in a 357, i dont even have to resize, just deprime refill and pop the new boy in then crimp. Trailboss works fine for this.

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Originally Posted by omegaspeedy

I read somewhere that Lee has the best crimp die method which is pretty important with tube mag and autos. Have you found that they are no good for pistol loading? I've used them for rifle and only complaint was seating high BC target bullets where they were not seating true.

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The problem I have with Lee pistol dies is the expander it is not a proper expander it only flares the mouth of the case, with lead bullets it scrapes lead
off the bullet, The lyman dies are designed for cast bullets with a far better expander and their crimp dies are all that is needed, I have seen the Lee crimp die damage bullets if not adjusted properly

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Originally Posted by shooternz

The problem I have with Lee pistol dies is the expander it is not a proper expander it only flares the mouth of the case, with lead bullets it scrapes lead
off the bullet, The lyman dies are designed for cast bullets with a far better expander and their crimp dies are all that is needed, I have seen the Lee crimp die damage bullets if not adjusted properly

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Just flare the case mouth a bit more so it doesn't shave lead.

Any crimp dies can damage bullets if not adjusted properly.

I think you need to read the instructions properly.

I've reloaded thousands and thousands of .38 and .357 rounds on Lee dies over the last 25 or so years and never had a problem with anything from flush seated wadcutters in a S&W K38 to .357 max loads of 296 in a Rossi 92.

Thankfully Im sitting down as I write this, I must agree with Systolic on this. Lyman, rcbs etc all make excellent dies. Lee dies are in my experience every bit as good at half the price.

I load for 38 special and 357 using lee gear and have good results .

Then again, if you're going to be loading on a Dillon 650, you may as well spend the money on the Dillon dies so you can use the powder thrower on the press.

I've never used Trailboss with the Dillon measure, but the Belmont Magnum powder recommended by R93 is the same powder as WIN296 and H110 and will meter well.

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Originally Posted by Driverman

I load for 38 special and 357 using lee gear and have good results .

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Same. Never had an issue with cast projectiles and don't use much of a flare or crimp either.

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You guy's are lucky, I have had Lee die sets in 6.5x55 and 9mm both were total rubbish, They may have upped their quality lately but I prefer not to take the chance,
I have 3 of their push through dies for cast bullets I had to reshape and polish them to get them to work properly, now have them custom made in the States for the same
price as the Lee, Hands down the only expander worth using is the Lyman M die it expands the case properly not just flaring the mouth,

Thanks for all the info guys, I'll start the .357 journey on my little Lee press then when funds allow, transfer the operation to the Dillon.

Cheers again.

There's a heap of .357 Magnum cases and some 158gr nprojectiles in Carvell's auction tomorrow. Lots 200 and 215.

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Originally Posted by systolic

There's a heap of .357 Magnum cases and some 158gr nprojectiles in Carvell's auction tomorrow. Lots 200 and 215.

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Thanks mate, it's incredible his stuff is still being sold! Where's the auction?

Tomorrow. 4 November. Holiday Inn Hotel by Auckland Airport.

Google gun auction. The catalog is online as a pdf.

Successful 100rds while watching the racing!! Bloody good fun, no issues and that extra flare die worked really well. Only thing I found difficult was getting consistency from the Lee powder dispenser. It was all over the place no matter how consistently I tried to run it. Ended up measuring out every load as the tolerance of the powder was 5.8-6.3gr. I chose 6gr and seated 1.58" which lined up perfectly with the crimp.

Attachment 98127

And a disagree between the uploader here and the way the photo presented on my computer again! Bloody hopeless....probably my stinking Macbook pro :(

Hi guys, I'm going to try some Belmont Pistol Magnum powder. The Belmont load data doesn't list a min or max load. Just a single load which I'm not sure what it is. Has anyone got access to min/max load for .357?

Cheers.

Is it safe to just use Winchester 296 load data? 15-16.7 range?

If you can't say for certain that Belmont's Magnum Pistol Powder is the exact same powder as say H110/W296 only re-branded, don't interchange the data, contact Belmont in stead.

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Originally Posted by omegaspeedy

Is it safe to just use Winchester 296 load data? 15-16.7 range?

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Just use 296 or H110 data.

Belmont Magnum Pistol is the exact same powder as sold by Winchester as 296 and by Hodgdon as H110. It's made by St Marks Powder in Florida.

If you follow this link to the Belmont site, you'll even see 296 in brackets after the name Belmont Magnum Pistol. Further down in the description, where they cut and pasted it, they even call it 296 not Belmont Magnum Pistol.

Magnum Pistol Powder (WC 296) – Belmont Ammunition

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Originally Posted by systolic

Just use 296 or H110 data.

Belmont Magnum Pistol is the exact same powder as sold by Winchester as 296 and by Hodgdon as H110. It's made by St Marks Powder in Florida.

If you follow this link to the Belmont site, you'll even see 296 in brackets after the name Belmont Magnum Pistol. Further down in the description, where they cut and pasted it, they even call it 296 not Belmont Magnum Pistol.

Magnum Pistol Powder (WC 296) – Belmont Ammunition

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Thanks systolic. On their website, the number given looks to be the max load for 296. Will start at 16.1 I think.

Cheers.

omegaspeedy invest $40 and purchase a set of lee spoons...they dont cost a cent to sit on reloading bench and are pretty darn quick to get you within 1/2grn for the times you want to tweek a load a bit or just do say 20 loads.Ive got a great powder thrower but use the spoons into scales if less than 20 rounds as its just about as quick if you take set up time into account....and they are just the ducks nuts for trail boss loads.

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

omegaspeedy invest $40 and purchase a set of lee spoons...they dont cost a cent to sit on reloading bench and are pretty darn quick to get you within 1/2grn for the times you want to tweek a load a bit or just do say 20 loads.Ive got a great powder thrower but use the spoons into scales if less than 20 rounds as its just about as quick if you take set up time into account....and they are just the ducks nuts for trail boss loads.

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Thanks Micky, I'm using the yellow spoons as we speak :D

Interestingly, the shitty old lee powder dispenser is metering perfectly on W296 unlike with AP70N. I'm impressed.

Yeah that ball powder measures like water, don't down load 296 it's recommend for max loads only, for lighter loads use 231.

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Originally Posted by shooternz

Yeah that ball powder measures like water, don't down load 296 it's recommend for max loads only, for lighter loads use 231.

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Yeah it's amazing stuff in the meter. Just completed 200 on the little Lee. Boy I need to get the XL650 setup for .357.

Whats your thoughts on why W296 needing to be full load? I've loaded 16.1 vs 16.7max, so .6gr short of max. I'm not anticipating any issue....hopefully.

I watched this awesome guy (Excellent channel, long vids but detailed info) and he went for 16.1 W296 out of his Henry.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiC32voJd4s

thats a whole heap of rounds to shoot ya way through in a lever gun..... loads of fun on bunnies ..

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Originally Posted by omegaspeedy

Yeah it's amazing stuff in the meter. Just completed 200 on the little Lee. Boy I need to get the XL650 setup for .357.

Whats your thoughts on why W296 needing to be full load? I've loaded 16.1 vs 16.7max, so .6gr short of max. I'm not anticipating any issue....hopefully.

I watched this awesome guy (Excellent channel, long vids but detailed info) and he went for 16.1 W296 out of his Henry.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiC32voJd4s

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It's the recommendation from Winchester low loads can cause the dreaded SecondaryExplosiveEffect so they say I would not push my luck under loading 296
there are plenty of other powders for lower loads, If 296 is hard to find try AR2205 it is in the same burning speed, get loading with the Dillon I load mine on a 550
the Dillon dies are great, If you want to try cast bullets I have a mould that casts a 166 grain TC looks like your loaded ammo

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Originally Posted by shooternz

It's the recommendation from Winchester low loads can cause the dreaded SecondaryExplosiveEffect so they say I would not push my luck under loading 296
there are plenty of other powders for lower loads, If 296 is hard to find try AR2205 it is in the same burning speed, get loading with the Dillon I load mine on a 550
the Dillon dies are great, If you want to try cast bullets I have a mould that casts a 166 grain TC looks like your loaded ammo

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Interesting, will have to do some research on the SecondaryExplosiveEffect! Hope my load is safe. It is within the recommended range of 15.3-16.7. 16.1 is in the upper side.

I am interested in cast bullets. Was looking at a few videos today. Where did you get your mound from and how do you find the prep once the bullet is made? Much work in coating and finishing?

Ok it seems the danger of using w296 is squibs from inconsistent burn. It's not the initial shot fired, it's the firing into a sqib. Using good primers (I've used CCI Magnum pistol) and good crimps (I believe I have) will reduce the chances of a squib. It also states don't use a load less than 3% of maximum. I've used 16.1gr and 3% less of 16.7 is 15.59gr. Should be sweet I reckon.

If I was to read between the lines, you want a FULL case to prevent a flash over and 16.7 is just about a compressed load based on the level of powder I saw with 16.1.

Oh and reading further, the primer can pop the projectile out (thus reducing pressure) then the powder pressure builds causing a spike and boom!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by omegaspeedy

Interesting, will have to do some research on the SecondaryExplosiveEffect! Hope my load is safe. It is within the recommended range of 15.3-16.7. 16.1 is in the upper side.

I am interested in cast bullets. Was looking at a few videos today. Where did you get your mound from and how do you find the prep once the bullet is made? Much work in coating and finishing?

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If you want to get serious about casting buy one of the Lyman reloading manuals they have a section on casting and cast loads
the easiest way to lube and size the bullets is with the Lee lube and push through size dies, I don't like Lee moulds they are cheap and a pain in the butt if casting more than
50 bullets at a time, I usually cast in batches of 10 kg, Steel moulds are the best then Brass and Aluminium, Commercial moulds from SAECO RCBS Lyman are ok custom moulds
are the best I use NOE, MP, Accurate molds, Mountain molds they are not really expensive you can make many thousands of bullets from a good mould I have only replaced one Alloy
mould after 9 years of use it still casts ok but was getting beat up.

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Originally Posted by shooternz

If you want to get serious about casting buy one of the Lyman reloading manuals they have a section on casting and cast loads
the easiest way to lube and size the bullets is with the Lee lube and push through size dies, I don't like Lee moulds they are cheap and a pain in the butt if casting more than
50 bullets at a time, I usually cast in batches of 10 kg, Steel moulds are the best then Brass and Aluminium, Commercial moulds from SAECO RCBS Lyman are ok custom moulds
are the best I use NOE, MP, Accurate molds, Mountain molds they are not really expensive you can make many thousands of bullets from a good mould I have only replaced one Alloy
mould after 9 years of use it still casts ok but was getting beat up.

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Thanks shooternz, lots of excellent info.