Thread: reloading issues

I have a couple of issues going on and need some pointers please.
All these cases are shot from my own rifle.
Caliber 243win.
Hornady dies.
Neck sizing - graphite lube.
Full size - one shot lube.
Nosler 55gr BT projectile.



Issue 1. I have 100 Once fired Norma brass. I haven't necksized it for first reload yet because I Can't seem to get my neck sizing right. How much down the neck do I want to resize? I usually make the resized portion extend right down to the start of the shoulder meeting the neck. Is this wrong?

I have couple hundy federal brass, shot 2 and 3 times depending on the box. I neck sized these as above but randomly find some I can't chamber them when I need to most and these have only been on first reloading. So before I bugger up the good Norma brass, would appreciate some tips.

Issue 2. For the bulk thats been reloaded and fired 2 or 3 times, I decided to full size. Set the die up according to instructions. Sprayed with one-shot and left overnight. Started to full-resize. Its bloody tight. I'm using a lot of force to operate the press. I got 20rd in and I have a stuck case. Booger. (I'll get that removed this week in the workshop) However, I don't want it happening again. So what went wrong?

Thanks in advance.


Jonathan

243
Sorry couldn't help it

I neck size 2/3rd's of the length of the neck (only cause this is what the guy who taught me to reload 30 years ago did)

I also Bump the shoulder back very minimally every time I reload. Just enough so the case will chamber easily.


When loading for my 6.5TCU I used to get a lot of stuck cases as the rim would peel off. Was soft winchester brass. Changed brand of cases and a very nice forum member polished the die within an inch of its life and no more issues. TCU is a very straight walled case which I think means resizing is more difficult.

not sure if any of that will help.

Originally Posted by mikee

I neck size 2/3rd's of the length of the neck (only cause this is what the guy who taught me to reload 30 years ago did)

I also Bump the shoulder back very minimally every time I reload. Just enough so the case will chamber easily.


When loading for my 6.5TCU I used to get a lot of stuck cases as the rim would peel off. Was soft winchester brass. Changed brand of cases and a very nice forum member polished the die within an inch of its life and no more issues. TCU is a very straight walled case which I think means resizing is more difficult.

not sure if any of that will help.

I've heard of bumping the neck, but how do you do it?

Don't use Hornady One Shot spray lube for FLSing. If you wish to, better buy a stuck case remover as sooner or later (mostly sooner) you will jam a case in a die.
Spray lube (aerosol not water based) is perfectly OK though for neck sizing - spray at a downward angle (to get inside top of neck) and from both sides. Also easier to clean up than if using sizing oil or Imperial wax.
For FLSing I use a un-inked stamp pad from a stationery shop and I spread either Lyman or Hornady or RCBS sizing lube (oil) over it. Roll the cases over the pad to get a THIN consistent film over the case. Lube inside neck with cotton bud.
For case forming I use Imperial sizing wax - there is no other lube that performs as well for this task.
I size 2/3 of the way down the neck as that is what my dies do (Wilson) theory being you leave a close to chamber sized section unsized which centralises the cartridge when chambered. Sizing right down the neck perfectly OK for most reloading just don't try to push the shoulder neck junction down. Use felt tipped marking pen stripe down neck to see where you are at.

Try your fired cases in your rifle b4 resizing, (be it neck of FL) just to see what's going on and if they are tight at the start of the process. Without getting into the neck sizing versus FLSing debate that will determine if they need FLSing. If you can remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt and chamber them with the bare bolt - that will give you a feel without the influence of the main spring. Most FLSing problems are then because the dies are not adjusted correctly, usually not far enough down and when the case body is squeezed the neck moves fwd and they become even harder to chamber than before starting.

Originally Posted by scottrods

I've heard of bumping the neck, but how do you do it?

I have a body die for this.

For issue 2, did you remember to lube the inside of the neck? I know some people here have said the one shot spray lube doesn't work very well, I haven't tried the stuff myself but it is worth keeping it in mind.

Jonathan I would get that one shot spray and throw it as far away as you can. If you want to use a spray lube try the Dillion stuff. Or else use a wax either imperial sizing wax or Hornady sizing wax. I am using the Hornady wax at present and find it good. I would say you might be pulling the necks back out with neck mandrel.

As mikee says I would only go 2/3 of the way down the neck. So your not affecting the shoulder neck Junction area.

I sort all my fired brass for my bolt guns by seeing if they chamber as they are, in the rifle.
My action will tell me straight away if they are worth keeping by how far it will close if they do not chamber easily.
If they are a just a bit out I visually check for imperfections with a magnifying glass, if all good, I measure to see if they need trimming. Rare in an Ackley.

I use bushing dies to neck size 3/4 of the neck.
Then using good lube, bump the shoulder around 1-2 thou. I never run the spigot through to size the internal neck unless to repair one that is deformed.
If your dies are good you do not need to touch the inside of the neck other than to clean and graphite.

Newer cases chamber perfectly after this process.

If they still do not chamber but are close I run them through a body die. I then mark them as they are pretty much at the end of their life.
I load them a couple more times then bin them for the scrap man.


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Problem with the hornady dies, is that the deprime pin also resizes the inside of the neck.

Using graphite powder no issues for lube on necksizing, tho it is messy.

Originally Posted by scottrods

Problem with the hornady dies, is that the deprime pin also resizes the inside of the neck.

Using graphite powder no issues for lube on necksizing, tho it is messy.

Redding dies allow you to remove the button and retain the decapping pin.
Bit pricey by the time you buy the correct bushings but they work a treat.
I have a max runout of 2 thou and on most cases and loaded rounds the dti arm hardly even moves.

I do not lube if only neck sizing. I only graphite the necks and projectile for seating.

Ink free stamp pad and neatsfoot oil for lube or wax is what I have had the best results with. I have only had one stuck case and that's when I was brand new to reloading.

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Issue 2 is you have case hardened brass. It is a problem with overbore cases. Solution annealing.If you want to neck size get a LCD. They are magical.

Personally I think a better setup then using a standard three die set is to buy a Lee collect neck sizing die ($50 from reloaders) and a Redding body die ($30 from brownelles). The advantage being that you can then neck size and deprime without any lube at all. Then like r93 I go through and test chamber all the brass and then use the body die on any that are hard to chamber. You can even use the body die on loaded ammo although I suspect that it doesn't do good things to the runout.

Originally Posted by MassiveAttack

Personally I think a better setup then using a standard three die set is to buy a Lee collect neck sizing die ($50 from reloaders) and a Redding body die ($30 from brownelles). The advantage being that you can then neck size and deprime without any lube at all. Then like r93 I go through and test chamber all the brass and then use the body die on any that are hard to chamber. You can even use the body die on loaded ammo although I suspect that it doesn't do good things to the runout.

+1 on the lee collet die. Also do what I do and buy a saami gauge off workshopinovations.co.nz