Thread: The Six and a half Swede.

Im more a check it before I use something. Just an old habbit. Ill even do it with factory stuff. Testing the ammo and rifle function as well. I have had one case a long time ago where a batch of cant remember what it was didnt seem to feed smoothly when I ran it through a rifle. Same thing we do with the race car, go over it and test everything before you go out not wait till the race to find out if somethings wrong...

Hell I even check the car over before heading off on a trip

Originally Posted by blip

Im more a check it before I use something. Just an old habbit. Ill even do it with factory stuff. Testing the ammo and rifle function as well. I have had one case a long time ago where a batch of cant remember what it was didnt seem to feed smoothly when I ran it through a rifle. Same thing we do with the race car, go over it and test everything before you go out not wait till the race to find out if somethings wrong...

.270 Sako 150 grn factory ammo. Roundy nose stuff in blue and white pkt. In the Puketois and found that it wouldn't chamber - ogive too far forward. When I extracted the round powder went every where. Of course, tried another one and same thing. 2 powder dumps through the action. Fortunately I was doing a 'possum line so I was still productive. But I missed out on a few dollars worth of bonus by not getting a deer.

Another time my new head torch wouldn't go and had to find my way home in the dark. Read the instructions next morning and it had a double click lock on it.

So yeah checking is probably a good idea - especially something new.

Originally Posted by gimp

Why buy the extra die to neck size when there's no benefit and only possible downsides?

Why bump the shoulders back each time if you dont need to?
You dont need to buy a neck die.


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Originally Posted by Dicko

Why bump the shoulders back each time if you dont need to?
You dont need to buy a neck die.


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Why not bump the shoulder .002" each time and avoid possible function issues?

I hear you and do both. But unless your pushing velocities you can get away with neck sizing for the life of some cases.


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Originally Posted by blip

So by running my loaded rounds through the rifle prior to heading out can you enlighten me on how I'm all of a sudden going to get a jam?

It’s a hunting rifle
It’s not a clean environment
One bit of shit in the chamber or stuck to the round and the tight tolerances of a neck sized round will get ya

Ok, keeping the bolt closed has solved that issue for the past 30+ years

Originally Posted by rambo-6mmrem

It’s a hunting rifle
It’s not a clean environment
One bit of shit in the chamber or stuck to the round and the tight tolerances of a neck sized round will get ya

Crap, or enuff shit in the chamber will not differentiate between the two. If your cases had that much free play you’d be going through brass pronto.

Remember that a lot of reloaders use hand and C type presses that effectively only neck size and life goes on.


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Lambe,
Was at the range chronographing a couple of my 6.5 Swede loads used in a R8. 22” barrel.
Lapua brass , 140 sst, 2209 @47 gns, 2823 fps average.

A 129 hornady on the same 47 of 2209 in PMC brass gave 2743 fps average.

For GPM that’s new 2209.


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Tikka T3 - 143gr eldx - 2730 fps with a 19 inch barrel - RL 26 powder .

Roessler Titan 6. 140 amax 2209 2820


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Originally Posted by Dicko

Lambe,
Was at the range chronographing a couple of my 6.5 Swede loads used in a R8. 22” barrel.
Lapua brass , 140 sst, 2209 @47 gns, 2823 fps average.

A 129 hornady on the same 47 of 2209 in PMC brass gave 2743 fps average.

For GPM that’s new 2209.


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Thanks Dicko for that info, I use 2209 in the 260 with great results and truth be known I should use it in the Swede as well, but at this stage I'll see where the 2213 leads me. Interestingly I have done a load with 129 gr Hornady and 42.5 gr of 2209 and got 2650 fps and good grouping, but I'd be replicating the 260 so I will try something different.
I need to sort out the resizing of my brass and once I've done that I'll set about upping the loads and see where we get to.

I would be switching to AR2209 for that barrel length (and drop the charge down to say 42gn and work your way up to a node).
I use 2213sc for my 28" target rifle but i never load more than 45.15gn or its too hard on the brass long term / slight reduction in precision.

I would also say, ditch any 'average' brass (like winchester or federal) you have and make sure you have good quality stuff like Lapua if you are pushing this out to high velocities.
Makes a big difference. I find Norma to be almost on par with Lapua. And regular large rifle primers seem to be better for precision than magnums.
But shoot what you got eh. its only slightly different imo.

Originally Posted by rambo-6mmrem

It’s a hunting rifle
It’s not a clean environment
One bit of shit in the chamber or stuck to the round and the tight tolerances of a neck sized round will get ya

I once tipped my rifle upwards and screwed on the suppressor, some chunks of carbon got loose and went back down the barrel... jammed up nicely with my stupidly precise ammo i had made.