Hi there folks.
Got a 223 case stuck in a hornady full length resizing die. Anybody in Taranaki (ideally South) have a stuck case removal tool I can borrow please?
Cheers
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Hi there folks.
Got a 223 case stuck in a hornady full length resizing die. Anybody in Taranaki (ideally South) have a stuck case removal tool I can borrow please?
Cheers
Too far away to assist but before I bought one had a stuck case, 1st ever. I just drilled out the primer pocket and tapped to 6mm (1/4 Whitworth is better but who has those taps nowadays?).
Used a small socket as a spacer, flat washer on top of the socket, suitable 6mm bolt and out she came.
Before drilling the primer pocket see if you can wind the primer removal rod up as far as possible.
Since I've has a factory tool I haven't had a stuck case so they work...
Edit: My stuck case was a 308 so just used a 1/2" socket of a size big enough to go over the case and rest against the die bottom.
Got a stuck 260 case last week, my mate used the system mentioned above to get the bugger out
I've never had one but is it not possible to take the decapping rod and nut out of the die and punch the case out
Thanks everybody. Having done a bit more googling last night I will see what components I can get from bunnings this morning. Otherwise @muzza has offered to help me out
Stick it in the freezer for an hour and then try again in the press. The brass will shrink more than the steel so this often works too.
I also know this......twice. now i have the right thingQuote:
Originally Posted by muzza
You will get everything you need at Bunnings.
Drill, tap bolt, washers. Brass is soft so a shifter is ok to work the tap. Put the bolt through the washers and a socket to pull the case.
Usually..........with the right gear they come out amazingly easy. Even easier than pulling a tooth.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nakivet
My thanks to the contributors of this thread as I was unaware of the possibility of this mishap. I had covered my arse some time ago and obtained the tool to remedy a detached head for .30 calibre but had nothing for this scenario.
Thanks to your guidance, today I spent $28 and now own a 1/4 inch Whitworth tap, matching bolt with a Hex key head and a 5 mm drill.
Now I am confident I will never, just like Zimmer, ever have a need for them.
Begone foul Murphy, I have confounded your dastardly plans......
Attachment 156170
Why Whitworth? A couple of reasons.Quote:
Originally Posted by muzza
First because it is "British", No need for the "French" system when British Whitworth, which was the world's first national screw thread standard, has served us so well.
Secondly, being a "Bear of very little brain" when I started my steep firearms reloading learning curve here. I read and considered the knowledge of others being kindly made available. I think I mentioned that in my last post, and Zimmer said ......
"I just drilled out the primer pocket and tapped to 6mm (1/4 Whitworth is better but who has those taps nowadays?).
So, as i was buying and able to buy Whitworth and I take every opportunity available to vomit on those who incorrectly espouse the use of the word Aotearoa.
Attachment 156195
There is more, quite a lot more but I suspect you may now have an inkling :>)
Got it sorted thanks chaps. Bumped into an acquaintance at bunnings while looking for the taps who had the removal tool at home. Quick trip round and had it sorted. Also borrowed his neck sizing die so resorted to neck sizing only instead of full length sizing
That's great you got it sorted.
Don't be put off by that case stuck experience. Even if you resort to neck sizing you will eventually need to FLS. Depending upon the cartridge/load maybe as soon as 3-4 firings. Nowadays I FLS every reload.
Everyone who ever had a stuck case will tell you it was caused by short cutting the lubing or using an inadequate lube.
My stuck case came after maybe 30 years of reloading when I changed from my tried and proven lube to a new snake oil that claimed it was suitable for FLSing. First case stuck. Snake oil binned.
And please @zimmer tell me what is your "tried and proven" lube?Quote:
Originally Posted by zimmer
Cheers Zimmer
Yeah I know i will need to go back to FL sizing at some point. And yes the lube was a bit lacking. I had a helper who is used to only neck sizing doing the powdered graphite application and me being new to it all wasn't checking well enough. Sure enough mistake learnt but not a major
As far as an application I have always used the stamp pad method. I think Lyman and Hornady and maybe others sell a pad but I just bought a stamp pad minus inking of course from a stationery outlet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Sapper
I mildly lube inside the necks with an oily cotton bud. The pad is oiled up and I then roll say three cases at a time.
The lube I used which eventually ran out was Lyman's lube oil purchased in the 70's. Back then it was in a screw top tube and was brown. I purchased a couple of tubes at the time and it lasted well. I have since acquired more Lyman's this time it's in plastic bottles and clear. I have experienced no issues with the new lot during FLSing. You can usually "feel" how effective the lube is.
For any sort of harder work eg case forming work I use Imperial Sizing wax although I am sure the Lyman oil would be OK.
There are lots of ways I guess to lube cases but the stamp pad and quality oil has always worked fine for me.
A mate also uses the stamp pad method although I think his pad is a Lyman one and he lubes with pure Lanolin sourced from a chemist. He swears by that lube.
I have the Imperial Dry Neck Lube and shot balls setup but rarely use it. Maybe for the first load with new super clean brass but applied to the projectiles.
