Originally Posted by
CheekiBreeki
Oh yeah I am 100% a vindictive cunt, especially when another cunt (mimms2) decides to ambush my posts elsewhere and then suggests I compost myself. Go look at his post history - he's an alcoholic nutbag who wants to burn down cellphone towers.
The other thing is that this is just old timer lore, and it's not true for even the .303 with decent reloading practices and technique. The posting of every weight of .312" projectile bar 125grain just showed how useless it was, that's literally NO help what so ever to someone trying to buy componentry to start reloading for the cartridge- should the OP just buy every type of 0.312" diameter projectile commercially available in NZ?
Honestly the best starting point is 174 - 180 gr as that's the sweet spot for a 1:10 twist .303 and with playing with powder volumes in smaller and smaller increments and seating depth the OP could realistically expect to get less than 2MOA with almost any projectile, which would probably be the best that could be hoped for without decent glass or pressure bedding and a scope.
He could also have pointed out something useful, like that full length sizing is probably not the way to go for brass life and that the OP should invest in a collet type neck sizing die. It's the best option if you don't go to an improved chamber like .303 Epps or similar that headspaces on the shoulder rather than the rim.