Thread: Working up a load workflow

Originally Posted by CheekiBreeki

I reload, but one wouldn't even have to in order to see that your post about projectile weights was just garbage.

Going to be honest you just seem like a plain c@*t. But you literally posted something that is not useful in any world bitching about his post being useless. Its pretty simple all he's adding is that they tend to have a preference for a weight class which I dont often find true in modern cartridges. Just means check a range of weights before going down the rabbit hole.

Calm the farm please!

Greetings Bumblefoot,
Having read through this thread and revisited your earlier one I suspect your head may be spinning. Hopefully, without adding any more confusion, here is my take on loads and loading the .303 with a Lee Loader.
Case Prep.
Sort out a batch of your empties with the same head stamp and decap them and give them a good clean. A rub with a Scotchbrite to any grubby area and a buff up with a Chux is all you need. Next try them in your rifle chamber to ensure the bolt closes without too much effort. If it doesn't you will need to find someone with a press and a .303 FL die to size them just enough to chamber. Trim them with your Lee trimmer and chamfer inside and out, especially on the inside. This helps with seating the projectile. If the primer has been crimped in place you will need to remove the crimp with a small knife. Now you are ready to size.
Sizing and Capping.
Follow the directions that came with your Lee kit and go easy seating the primer.
Loads.
With the 150 grain projectile I would suggest 36 grains of H4895 which is the start load listed By Hodgdon. I have loaded 34 grains of AR2206H, which is exactly the same powder as H4895, which shot very well in my .303. 36 grains should produce about 2,200 fps in your rifle. I would fire some of these loads to check for accuracy and that the fired cases chambered freely. You may also note that the primer has backed out a little. This is good. You may wish to stop at this point but if not you could try 37 and 38 grains of H4895. I wouldn't bother working up in small increments as the aim is to find a load that allow the cases to be reloaded using the Lee Loader and give acceptable accuracy. I used 38 grains of AR2206H behind the 150 grain projectile in my .308 as a soft target load. These were only neck sized and never needed FL sizing. In fact a tight case fired with this load chambered freely thereafter.
In summary I suspect that somewhere between 36 and 38 grains of H4895 you will find a happy spot that gives acceptable accuracy and velocity plus allowing the cases to be reloaded in the Lee Loader repeatedly.
Regards Grandpamac.

@grandpamac Thank you so much. I've got a heap of Highland/PPU brass that has been shot through this rifle. Funny; like a dork I bought a set of full length dies by mistake! I saw the dipper in the ad and automatically thought it was a Lee Loader without reading the ad properly... Dumb-arse moment.... However; the dies have the new 2.8g spoon and charge page which is helpful. I am still thinking about getting a press so will keep the dies in case I have to do the occasional FL re-size. If not; I'll sell them. Here's the new charge sheet

Originally Posted by bumblefoot

@grandpamac Thank you so much. I've got a heap of Highland/PPU brass that has been shot through this rifle. Funny; like a dork I bought a set of full length dies by mistake! I saw the dipper in the ad and automatically thought it was a Lee Loader without reading the ad properly... Dumb-arse moment.... However; the dies have the new 2.8g spoon and charge page which is helpful. I am still thinking about getting a press so will keep the dies in case I have to do the occasional FL re-size. If not; I'll sell them. Here's the new charge sheet

Attachment 178792

Greetings Bumblefoot,
I would definitely hang on to those FL dies. With them you only need to find someone with a press. FL sizing for a .303 takes some care. You only want to size the case just enough to chamber and no more. I start with the die a couple of turns away form the shell holder and turn the die down about 1/8 of a turn at a time until the case just chambers and no more. This is the key to decent case life with the .303. I was without a .303 in my cupboard for almost 40 years but still kept my dies. You just never know when you might need them.
Regards Grandpamac.

Originally Posted by CheekiBreeki

Oh yeah I am 100% a vindictive cunt, especially when another cunt (mimms2) decides to ambush my posts elsewhere and then suggests I compost myself. Go look at his post history - he's an alcoholic nutbag who wants to burn down cellphone towers.

The other thing is that this is just old timer lore, and it's not true for even the .303 with decent reloading practices and technique. The posting of every weight of .312" projectile bar 125grain just showed how useless it was, that's literally NO help what so ever to someone trying to buy componentry to start reloading for the cartridge- should the OP just buy every type of 0.312" diameter projectile commercially available in NZ?

Honestly the best starting point is 174 - 180 gr as that's the sweet spot for a 1:10 twist .303 and with playing with powder volumes in smaller and smaller increments and seating depth the OP could realistically expect to get less than 2MOA with almost any projectile, which would probably be the best that could be hoped for without decent glass or pressure bedding and a scope.

He could also have pointed out something useful, like that full length sizing is probably not the way to go for brass life and that the OP should invest in a collet type neck sizing die. It's the best option if you don't go to an improved chamber like .303 Epps or similar that headspaces on the shoulder rather than the rim.

You also could have just pointed out that useful info you just added and said that. I would have learned something.

Its pretty simple to say I disagree and its possible to agree with someone on 1 thing and disagree on another. For example I have never found a rifle that shows any serious preference for an particular bullet weight unless it cant stabilize it. I personally think its usually how lucky you get with you starting seating depth. I may be wrong however and have got lucky but I've run 155s to 225s in the same 308 and 120s to 180s in 7mm08'and all would shoot similar groups once i got to playing with seating depth. So i kind of disagree with/am skeptical off those saying they have a strong preference but i dont go attack them as i dont know I just haven't found it to be true.

Regardless both of you seem to be at each others throats after reading your recent histories. How about keeping your squabbles to the threads they started in and try be civil in any others you happen to see each other or even better block each other as i cant see a mutual understanding happening.

Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings Bumblefoot,
I would definitely hang on to those FL dies. With them you only need to find someone with a press. FL sizing for a .303 takes some care. You only want to size the case just enough to chamber and no more. I start with the die a couple of turns away form the shell holder and turn the die down about 1/8 of a turn at a time until the case just chambers and no more. This is the key to decent case life with the .303. I was without a .303 in my cupboard for almost 40 years but still kept my dies. You just never know when you might need them.
Regards Grandpamac.

This is great info and just what I was going to post when I saw you fretting about having brought full length dies.

@grandpamac Yup; I'd probably just get a Lee Anniversary kit or similar. I just like basic stuff that gets the job done Plus; I'm really ony reloading for the fun and would never go through a heap of rounds because I'm not into target shooting etc.