Have used a couple of hundred or so of these doing ungulate pest control. They work fine but then so do the 55’s as long as you put them in the right place, same as any caliber/weight.
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Good article in latest NZHunter magazine that deals with using monos and a bit of explanation on varmits type projectiles....only thing missing was speil on the heavies.
I'm just prepping for the annual Xmas freezer filler trip. Picked up 300 rounds of those 55 grn PMC Bronze cheap. Certainly group OK. Not as tight as handloads, but good enough out to 250m. But the packet is written up with imaginary velocities. 3200fps yeah my arse. Just used @Ross Nolan's Garmin dopler and through a 22 inch barrel they are actually loafing along at 2950 fps. will now recalculate my dropchart to stick to the butt of my rifle.
Used a bunch of the pmc bronze to get brass, as you say the velocity on the box is unrealistic even for a 24” barrel. It’s about 2900fps out of a 19” ruger.
Hi, newish to bush hunting..planning on a superlite howa carbon stock due to weight carrying in bush...looking at 223 mini vs superlite howa 6.5...
From what ive stalked so far ive seen no more than 100 or 180 m visibility e.g. kaimais area...so is 223 all i need?
The Howa Creedmoor. Until you have some experience and get over the jitters using the .223 (especially with factory ammo) is likely to end in tears. Fairer on you and the animals to start with a bit more oomph. Get the .223 when you are really feeling confident with your bush shots.
I agree 💯 with tahr, your other option is a 6.5 grendel Howa mini in a Howa Stocky stock.
It's an awesome little shooter I really love it.
Shot a couple of reds and quiet a few fallow with it shot it on the range out to 600Mhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a595412ad6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...44d47e8980.jpg
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Agree with gimp. The .243 suppressed or 308 ,just gives you more bargain for error and less precise placement...bigger pill= bigger hole /deeper hole and usually an exit...two hole for the red stuff to fall out of. The .223 or triple 2 is and has always been best in cool calm hands of experienced rifleman who can place the shot where it works best. You can cart gravel in concrete mixer behind mayoral Mercedes,but in back of ute makes more sense.
Agree with the idea that a larger caliber than 223 is probably better to start with but don’t completely agree with gimp that you’ve got to reload to get full potential out of 223. Currently at about 42 less dear than year day number for the year and most have been shot with 55 gr SP’s. Admittedly I’ve been hunting for more than a year or two.
@greensmurf46 a good bullet in a .224 centrefire can be very destructive. Here’s a pic that I took this morning while butchering the deer I killed last weekend with my 22 creedmoor.
I’ve cut underneath the right shoulder and pulled it down to show damage.
Arrow shows bullet entrance where it completely shattered the major leg bone and joint. Circle is the hole where the bullet went though the ribs (about 2” diameter) The whole right shoulder area was toast, no meat salvageable. Very large wound considering the ‘marginal’ status of the cartridge. Big ELD-Ms fired from big cartridges make a sickening amount of mess.
Attachment 265066
Even the best off-the-shelf options gives up a bit in maximum effective range to handloads. Good to maybe 400m for me
Attachment 265077
I am considering to buy my first 223 rifle next year. I think 223 is the best tool for me since I like small games as well, and I do `t think for now I will pull the trigger when I see a big red.
Do you think it`s necessary to have a scope? I am confident that I can take an accurate shot with iron sight out of 200 yards.
What is the usual range as your experience when you spot a sika deer or fallow deer?
My choice is limited because I will need wood stock, sako is my favorite but how about CZ 457?
Yes, you need a scope. Even a low power give for much better target ID and shooting early mornings and on dark.
Iron sights under less than perfect conditions are a compromise.
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Fuck! I might be too old and cynical but with the animal numbers that are roaming the countryside theses days if you can’t get an animal with open sights maybe you should find another hobby. If you can’t identify what you’re aiming at with your naked eye you probably shouldn’t be taking the shot. I know there are a lot of heroes out there that go for mid to long range shots but you only hear about the good results. The reality is that most animals are taken under 200 metre range, often under 100 m. And there’s still more animals been taken with open sight 303’s, 222’s, 270’s etc than get taken per annum with all the flash shit we have available these days. I may be wrong but there’s probably a few ‘old timers’ out there thinking the same. Bye the bye, I’m only a young whipper-snapper at 63.
My first BRNO .222 circa 1968 relied on the pop up peep sight for its first year or so no problem. I could head shoot rabbits to a handy range and I dont recall having any trouble knocking over deer. Then it got a real flash harry Niko Stirling on it. Post reticle as thick as your thumb.
You certainly don't "need" a scope.
A large peep is good.
But a 223 does its best work with a scope.
4x
6x
3-9×40 are options.
Thank you all for the inputs. I did few hunting in NZ, and I do `t really think I am a sniper material:), a rifle man maybe. When I was in college I spent some time in inner Mongolia for two seasons. Waterfowl, rabbit hunting, chase deer like of goats at the boarder, and hunt wolfs to protect sheep. Those farmers have variety of rifles, Russian ones and Japs. Me, I prefer the the ww2 Japanese Arisaka type 38. with the iron sight, I can shoot very accurately even back then I do `t have any knowledge about firearms. Thus, I like to confirm this with you 223 expert, if it `s doable without scope to knock down animal with 223 within 300 yards. I get good eye sight.
Mmm nah, seethe same argument from people discounting the power of a thermal spotter. The more you can see, the better. Blaming a new tool for the user being incompetent is not it.
How many deer/rabbit shaped rocks/tree stumps were shot up in the 'good old days'?
As always the story gets bigger with every re-telling too, 'back in my day...!'
Man....I have finally admitted at 52 that four power is marginal for my eyes much past two hundy now..ok on a big red,bit too hard on anything smaller to place shots properly.
As someone who doesn't reload or know much about powders, projectiles etc and the dark arts of the subject, can someone tell me why the 223 ELD-M projectiles have such a small variance in weight between the 73, 75 and 80 gr?
What would be the reason be? more so the 2 grain between the 73's and 75's
Surely not enough gr difference to make a noticeable difference, or does it.
The 73grn is designed in its shape so that it fits and operates in a (short) 2.3" AR magazine.
The 75 and 80 are longer and sleeker bullets and are options for fast twist guns with room in the magazine for them. By fast twist I mean the rate of rifling required to stabilise a long sleek barrel.
The 80 is an extension of the 75’s where the 73s are designed for use with standard 223 COAL. They have a different ogive than the other two and can generally be used with standard magazines etc
The 75s and 80s have less drift and higher retained velocity due to better BC. That said the 73s are good for further than most should be shooting them.