Someone mentioned sticky-ing a guide for how new hunters and visitors can hunt in New Zealand, so I figured I’d make a start on one.
I see this as useful mainly to new hunters who don’t have hunting mates to learn from and visitors. Both these groups are often keen and conscientious and really want to make sure they do everything right, but have no idea where to start. Lots of good blokes on here give them info and even take them out hunting, but it’s a never ending task with new people all the time, so I was thinking a “how to start hunting in NZ” guide would help by covering the basics that are relevant to new hunters in NZ.
The plan is to keep the guide general and focus on the logistics of getting here, the rules, what to expect, how to plan a hunt, and what’s unique/unexpected about hunting in NZ, rather than specifics like hunting in a specific place, very particular facts, edge cases, tricks etc. The intent is to let them know what to think about and investigate further, rather than specific things to do.
Please see below for the draft version. Feel free to make comments, offer suggestions, etc etc, and I’ll figure out if they fit with what I’m trying to do and how to incorporate them. I’ll probably post one or two updated versions further down in this thread as they develop, then once I feel it’s sufficiently fleshed out, the mods can decide if they want to sticky a new thread with the finished version in it.
The sticky would probably need to be updated and replaced every year or two as things change, but that’s not terribly difficult.
So, here’s Version 1 for your consideration:
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This post is relevant as of January 2025. Laws and rules are likely to change over time, so if you’re reading this a considerable period into the future, some aspects of this guide may be out of date. Since the world seems to be increasingly litigious, this is not advice, just information that is hopefully mostly accurate.
1. Information about hunting in New Zealand.
There are many threads discussing visitors hunting in New Zealand on this forum and on facebook hunting groups. Using the search function will yield a lot of good info on where to hunt, when to hunt, what conditions you might face, etc. Youtube is excellent for understanding what hunting is like in NZ, but beware: videos don’t show how steep the hills are, how hot the sun is, how heavy the packs are, how spiky the plants are, or how little water there can be in places.
2. Applying for your NZ visitor’s firearms license.
Apply for your visitor’s firearms license well in advance (4+ Months). Nothing like planning your whole trip and spending a ton of money, then having it all fail because you didn’t do the right paperwork. (https://www.firearmssafetyauthority....rearms-licence). It’s a lot easier to do your paperwork in advance and then later change your travel dates on already approved paperwork than it is to rush it through last minute.
A firearms license is not required for any form of bow or crossbow. Hunting with a bow or crossbow still requires a hunting permit (see below).
3. Ammunition.
If you have a particular ammunition you need, check the NZ gun shops where you’re going to see if they have it. Ammo is generally expensive in New Zealand and more limited selection. Don’t expect to be able to find the specific ammo you want. This also applies to archery equipment, including heads. If you’re travelling with ammo, see the travel section next.
4. Export/re-import firearms permits for your country
You may need an export/re-import permit from your home country to take your firearm/ammunition/optics out of the country and return with them, even if it isn’t permanently. Check your home country’s rules. In some cases there is paperwork for temporary export, while other countries treat everything as a permanent export until you return and do a new import permit. Some countries have controls on some optics in addition to the firearm and ammunition.
5. International Travel.
Transit countries
Be aware that if you’re flying with a firearm/ammunition, bow, crossbow, and field/broadheads, and are transiting through third countries, you may need import/export permits for those countries, even if you never receive your bags in that country. Read the firearms laws for your transit countries, and get it in writing what paperwork you will need. Keep in mind many countries consider things like bows, spearguns etc, to be firearms. It’s safest to avoid transiting through third countries, but if you have to, do your homework and have it in writing on paper so it can be referred to with whoever you’re dealing with.
Immigration/customs on arrival in New Zealand
If you are landing in one New Zealand city then transferring flights to your final destination, you will have to collect your bags and go through customs and biosecurity in the first place you enter New Zealand. This is also where you’ll have your firearms, ammunition, and paperwork checked by police, so leave extra time between flights here. Given that you’ll probably have firearms and hunting gear, you’re going to get a thorough inspection by the police, then by biosecurity who are very likely to ask you to empty out every piece of gear you have. Biosecurity expectation is that everything entering into the country has been thoroughly washed, scrubbed, and dried, including boots, pockets of bags, inside tents, etc. If your gear is dirty you can spend an hour or two getting it all cleaned out. If you don’t declare it, there are very large fines.
6. Firearms transport and Storage
Airline Storage and Transport
Airlines vary widely on how they want firearms and ammunition secured and transported. Contact your airline by email and get them to spell out how they want it secured. Get them to clarify if you’re unsure. How ammunition is transported seems to be the most common issue, with loose ammunition being absolutely prohibited, and some airlines interpreting ammunition as having to be in factory packaging, while others accept it in plastic ammo boxes. The intent is to not have loose ammo, but you might save a potential headache if all ammo is in factory boxes (even if it might be handloads).
Within NZ Storage and Transport
This starts encroaching on the legal side of things which I don’t really want to go too far into. Generally speaking, if you want a stress free trip, follow police policy regarding storage and transport (https://www.firearmssafetyauthority....and-ammunition). Read it, print it out, carry it with you, and follow it. It’s not a guarantee that NZ police know the firearms laws or policy, so if they do inspect you, you may need to walk through police policy with them, and it helps to have printed copies with you.
If you want to know what the actual law says and you enjoy reading legal documents, take a deep dive into the wonderful world of the NZ Arms Act, amendment acts, and amendment regulations. I’ve never seen a list of them all in one place so it’s hard to say all the different laws that needs to be read in conjunction with each other if you go this route. The actual law and police policy aren't completely identical, so there are definite grey areas that can lead to issues.
7. Firearms
This will be a fairly gross oversimplification of some fairly weird laws, but as of January 2025 for hunting on public land for large game, you’ll need to use a firearm that meets the following conditions:
- No semi-auto centrefire, full auto, or handguns allowed for hunting.
- Lever action, bolt action, straight pull, and pump allowed with the following conditions:
- Longer than 762mm (30 inches) when in its smallest shootable configuration, measured from its muzzle to the back of the firearm.
- chambered in a centrefire, rifle cartridge at least as large with as much or more muzzle energy as .222.
- Magazine capacity of 10 rounds or less.
-Pump actions must also not have a detachable magazine.
If you want to use a rimfire, muzzle loader, or shotgun of any kind on public land, you’ll need a special permit.
On private land you can use any of the above for hunting except semi-auto, full auto, or handguns.
Suppressors require a police mail order form to buy online, but are otherwise uncontrolled. Your firearm will need to be threaded concentric to the bore or else you may get baffle strikes. Suppressors will also shift your point of impact.
8. Hunting permits and Licenses
Large game, Public Land hunting permits
Specifically for large game on public land, these permits are free online (https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...unting-permit/). They are basically a method of getting you read and agree to the Public Land rules of not scaring people, not shooting native birds, and generally not being irritating or unsafe. They are required for all forms of hunting on public land.
The form itself takes about 2 minutes to fill out and goes straight to your email. Check the boxes for the regions you’re thinking about hunting, and read the rules for each region, along with area closures and warnings, since they can change without warning.
See below for info on private land hunting, small game hunting, bird hunting, and firearms.
Small Game on public land
Small game (rabbits, hares, Canada/feral geese) hunting on public land is restricted and not part of the general hunting license. Contact the regional DOC office for the hunting area to get restricted permit. Some information is available on the big game permit page (https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...unting-permit/).
Private land hunting
Hunting on private land for anything other than game birds does not require a hunting license. You will still need to follow all relevant laws relating to firearms and have landowner permission. See next for gamebirds.
Game Bird Hunting
Game Bird hunting requires separate paid licenses and are protected by hunting seasons and bag limits. Canada and Feral geese are considered small game rather than Game Birds.
Further info:
- https://www.fishandgame.org.nz/game-...cks-and-swans/
- https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...unt/gamebirds/
9. Department of Conservation (DOC) Public Land Maps website
(https://www.doc.govt.nz/map/index.html). This website is fantastic for learning about areas. In base layers, you can change between topographic and satellite layers to see elevation (each line is 20m increments) and also actual imagery of the area you’re interested in. You can also turn on and off features like hunting boundaries, trails, huts, etc. If you hover your cursor over a feature like a trail or hut, you’ll get a pop up window that you can click to go to the DOC webpage with more information on it. This webpage is very handy for understanding where you’re going, what’s there, the rules/restrictions, hut fees etc.
Of special note, there are some restricted or ballot only zones that show up in yellow or red on the doc map when you turn on the hunting boundaries. These require ballot or some other special access through DOC. You won’t get access to these areas without going through a ballot system or speaking to the local DOC office. There is lots of open public land with tons of animals, so don’t stress if you have to try somewhere new.
10. Weather and environment
The weather is the main thing you need to worry about in New Zealand. Storms and weather events are common, and big storms can wipe out highways and shut down regions. Some regions only have one or two major roads, so road closures can block access to the entire region. Plan a couple different hunt options spaced well apart in case one area gets rained out, roads are closed etc. There are many sources for weather forecasts in New Zealand, however weather can change quickly, so keep monitoring forecasts as you go. Don’t be afraid to pull out of a hunt if things aren’t looking good – the weather is the most dangerous part of being in New Zealand.
Also keep in mind because New Zealand is the southern hemisphere, the seasons are opposite compared to the northern hemisphere.
Spring is September/October/November
Summer is December/January/February
Fall is March/April/May
Winter is June/July/August
This website gives you an idea of seasonal trends for different parts of the country: https://www.newzealand.com/int/seasons-in-new-zealand/
Rain, cold, and damp are going to be your biggest issue when hunting in New Zealand. Rainstorms can come in quickly and stay for days. This can reduce visibility to nothing, making travel or flying impossible. With or without rain, the humidity is often high through the winter so without a source of dry wood you can be left with damp clothes, sleeping bag, and tent. Knowing where a nearby hut is can be helpful if you need to get out of the weather for a day or two. Not all huts have fireplaces, but most are reasonably weatherproof. If you’re hunting any time between March and November, plan for lots of rain and damp, then be pleasantly surprised if it doesn’t rain.
Rain can also be an issue by causing surges in rivers, streams, and small creeks. Even if you don’t get rain directly on you, rain inland can cause even a small creek to surge high enough that you can’t safely cross for a day or more.
Sun and UV Index are high in New Zealand. The temperatures aren’t as hot as many places in the world, but people tend to get much worse sunburns in New Zealand than elsewhere. SPF50+ sunscreen, broad brimmed hats, and long sleeved clothing is a good idea.
Slopes and steep terrain are another aspect of hunting in New Zealand. The mountains aren’t exceptionally tall, steep, or complicated, but it’s a factor that has to be considered. Most public land hunting in New Zealand includes a considerable amount of walking both horizontally and vertically. If you’re looking to get a feel for what is required, open tops deer and tahr hunting is much closer to mountain goat/sheep hunting in North America and Chamois hunting in Europe than most NA deer hunting. Fitness is the number one thing that wrecks international hunters here. Best training is stairs with a heavy pack, both up and down, and cardio.
Drinking water can be scarce in alpine areas. Unless you’re sure of water somewhere, bring it with you. If there is significant farming nearby, or livestock uphill or upstream, don’t trust the water. If you’re up high in the mountains and the water is flowing somewhat quickly, you’re probably fine to drink it.
11. DOC pest poisoning
All mammals are introduced to New Zealand, so deer, chamois, tahr, goats, rabbits, hares, ferrets, weasels, stoats, rats, mice etc are all considered invasive. To try to manage them, DOC does aerial and ground poisoning to control their numbers. This can affect when and where you hunt. Generally try to avoid areas that have been poisoned.
This website shows where they have, or are planning to do poisoning (https://maps.doc.govt.nz/externalmap...sticidesummary). They also show future poison projects so you may be able to sneak in ahead of them.
12. General NZ hunting knowledge
Animals to hunt
DOC has an excellent page on what you can and can’t hunt in New Zealand (https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re.../what-to-hunt/)
Public Land, Conservation areas, and Parks
Most public hunting areas are either DOC administered Conservation Areas or Parks. Unlike elsewhere in the world, these parks and conservation areas are often open for hunting, since the animals you’re hunting are considered invasive. There are many DOC areas that’re closed for hunting, usually due to having high numbers of visitors, so make sure the DOC land you're wanting to hunt is also an open permit area, using the DOC map system discussed above.
General safety
- 111 is the emergency phone number in New Zealand.
- Healthcare for emergencies and most general medical issues when in the country is more or less free. If you get injured or sick, it won’t bankrupt you. You’ll probably incur some costs, but they won’t be world ending. I’d still strongly recommend you carry insurance since it will help accessing services faster and provide you with ongoing support after the emergency response, especially if it’s something serious enough that you’ll need help when you go back home.
- Search and Rescue is free. They would rather you call them than be afraid of incurring the cost of a rescue. It wouldn’t hurt if you made a donation after the fact though, they’re mostly volunteers.
- Personal Locator Beacons (PLB’s) are commonly used in New Zealand and are excellent safety devices. Unlike other communication devices like Inreach and Spot, PLB’s do not require any subscriptions and are only meant as emergency beacons. They’re small (about the size of a cigarette carton), the batteries are good for 5 years (they have an expiry date listed on their housing), and current models usually have a 24-48 hour transmitting battery life with GPS and radio transmitter. They’re generally $250-$500 new, or can be rented by the day or week from many outdoor stores. Expired PLB’s are generally not worth buying since replacement batteries cost as much as a new PLB. One benefit to them is that they are not prone to wearing out their battery since they have no other functions to perform like Inreach and Spot satellite communicators.
- Satellite communicators (Spot, Inreach, etc). These have the benefit of sending messaging to other satellite devices, phones, and email, getting weather updates, and having an emergency SOS function. They are especially useful in communicating with your family/friends at home, other hunters, a pilot if you’re flying out, and getting weather forecasts if you’re out for a considerable length of time. The downsides are that they’re pricier to buy than PLB’s, require ongoing subscriptions and have message caps. The main two failings are if you aren’t diligent about keeping it charged you can potentially drain the battery enough that the emergency function can’t work, and the emergency SOS functions on these devices don’t work without an active subscription.
- Mountain Radio used to be common, however the system isn’t widely in use anymore, or possibly at all.
13. Etiquette
April is the roar (rut) for red deer so the busiest time of year in the woods. The rules are pretty similar to any public hunting areas in the world. If other people are already hunting an area, do your best to go somewhere else or give them space, but they by no means have right to an area over anyone else. If you run into someone be friendly and work out a plan so you aren’t hunting on top of each other. Same as anywhere there are some dicks out there, but if you’re being friendly and courteous, you’ve done your bit.
You’re likely to end up sharing huts with people, both hunters and non-hunters. This guide has a decent balance of hut etiquette suggestions: https://goodblokes.nz/backcountry-hu...e-for-hunters/
One thing that isn’t widely discussed in NZ is that hut books exist for more than just safety. While they’re definitely used to find lost hikers, they’re also a very important way DOC identifies what huts are getting used, and why they’re being used. They use this data to justify maintaining huts, and where to put their energy. Not putting your name down, or not saying you’re a hunter robs them of the ability to show a hut is being used, and that hunting is happening in the area. DOC is a government organization and any decision they make is based on the data they get. If you don’t show that you used a remote hut, they may not think anyone is using it. If you don’t say you’re a hunter, they don’t think that hunters are actively in the forest managing animal populations.
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