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Hey team.
I am trying out a leupy scope with a B&C reticle at the moment. What i want to clarify is about using the reticle for at range. It says it is designed to be zeroed @ 200yards but i was wondering if i zeroed it at 100 yards would the drop chart work the same? Eg zero at 100 then top of the post works out to be 400yds as opposed to 500 if you zero at 200yds. Assume has to be worked out in metres not yards either.
Regards
You need to find out what the distance between the crosshair and the other posts are. Leupold will probably give it as inches at 100 yds. Then look at your drop chart with a 100yd zero and see what ranges the post correspond with.
From what i can work out, if you use the large triangle the bullet drops will be as follows
Cross hair 0.00" of drop
first crosshair down 6.88" of drop
2nd crosshair down 20.11" of drop
3rd crosshair down 29.5" of drop
Top of thick post 40.95" drop
so you think i shoot at 100, 200, 300yds etc with the x-hairs on the target and work out drop that way? Sorry my brain is not really following you @stug
Run your data through a ballistics calculator with a 100 yd zero, then see at twhat distance the drop matches with drop for each crosshair.
Post your load data here if you are sure and I'll run it for you. Need projectile calibre and weight and muzzle velocity
i am looking at it all on google now and i see what you mean about large and small triangle. Should have just stuck with a standard x-hair haha.
Being a 308 i need to use the small triangle and the scope is not high powered being a 2.5-8.
Will download a calculator tonight and have a play...am thinking strelok.
Sterlok Pro ballistic app is good for working out different reticles and their drops, then confirm with targets at those ranges easy as. But you will need the basic stuff like velocity, cal, bullet, scope height etc.
Strelok is nice and simple. Was bang on with my 308 using Redfield accurange. If you find the leupold too complicated I can help you with safe disposal of it :D
haha if that time comes i will let you know @Boar Freak
You don't have to use the small triangle, it's just that it works for 308 class cartridges with a 200yd zero. If you run 308 with a 100yd zero and big triangle you will just find the top of the post might only be 350 yds.
Fine by me having it out to 350yds. On my bush pig(16" barrel) but still want to be able to shoot slips etc
Will have a play and report back
Strelok+ is the easiest of the Strelok apps to use in my opinion
R.
Good advice above.
If not dialing my advice having used 308 for years is zero at 200m,its fine at bush ranges actually better than a 100y zero and it gives you point and shoot to 250 without having to think about which aim point or hold high or low.
Remeber to have your scope on the correct power (full is easyest just wind it round till it stops and your recticle works instead of trying to find some mid point triangle)
Check out your drops actually line up with calculated ranges on the recticle and remember that steep shots up or down will make your shot high.
I have a vx3 with the B&C reticle. The manual should give you the moa between the hold over points. Use that and your calculator or range card. Works well for me with my 270wsm, the big triangle (14x) for 130gr and the small (10x)for 150gr. Was bang on at 600yards with both.
Do not have the manual unfortunatley. Have used Strelok with my factory 150gr ammo but i wonder how different it will be with my 16" barrel.
Attachment 74577
Try this.
Yeah cheers for that but does not tell me what to do if i wanted to zero at a lesser distance. Have saved it regardless however.
As vietnamcam said,for hunting a 200 yard zero is more practical as you can just up and shoot at an animal out to 300m. with a 100 yard zero you will have to think about holdover for every distance.
you can use strelock to get your distances for your retical, then set your target at that one of the further distances , say 306m or 356m and shoot at it using the correct crosshair line.then adjust your scope if it is out a little. The closer distance lines will change such a small amount they wont matter.
only reason I can think of to set zero to 100 is that he does not have access to zero out to 200?
All good advice but 3 words come to mind
Validate validate validate
Get the data then confirm it on the range, Certain is better than uncertain in the field
Enough thoughts are in your head without doubts creeping in when lining up a shot on an animal
yeah going to hit the range ASAP to confirm.
Have access out to 600m but i always thought it would be more ideal to have a closer zero as majority will be bush work and offhand shooting.
If i zero @ 200yards and go to shoot an animal 100 yards away, based on using strelok, i have to lower the x hair on its body from where i want to shoot so if i went for a headshot would that not mean i miss or wound the animal? Gun shoots moa to just sub moa so confident i can kill it but need to know where i aim is where it hits.
Like i said will go confirm at the range but i know there is an abundance of knowledge on this forum which is why i asked.
another stupid question. When it asks for scope height where do i measure from and to? is it top of the barrel to the bottom of the scope? Is it the bottom of the port to the middle of the scope?
Thanks for putting up with my silly question everyone.
Scope height is centre of bore to centre of scope.
cheers @stug!!
If you zero at 200 yds or metres (there's only 18 yards difference,) as a rule of thumb shoot 3 inches low at 100 and 8 inches high at 300 off the crosshair.
it is easier to aim a couple of inches low at a hundred ,than 4 inches high at 200m. your boon and crocket retical is set up for inches yards and minute of angle so it would help to use those measurements.(rangefinder in yards)
At bush ranges 10-40y most often a 200 zero will have you very close and a 100 zero will have you shooting low as it hasn't come up to scope level yet.
Have a play with the numbers on a ballistic program...it makes sense to have point and shoot to beyond spooking range.
Sent from my SM-G800Y using Tapatalk
With a 200yd zero on the ole three O Late you will be just on 2inches high at 100yds, 3inches low at 250yds, and for that 300yd shot with about a 8inch drop a hold on the top of the back will get you there no trouble.
And for that close shot in the bush ya bullet first crosses your line of site about 25yds or thereabouts so no trouble there either.
Just my 2 cents worth!!
I agree with all but top of back hold at 300y....thats a spine shot on a red ,top of back at 350 is better on red sized deer.Quote:
Originally Posted by 30late
It's my turn to say "Over thinking it"
The Boone & Crocket is meant to be a simple tool if you don't want to Paff around and are happy to Zero at 200 yd
There are several good reasons-to Zero at IOOm . The main one is that your bullet is within an inch of the sight line from about 30 m to 130 m .You can aim exactlywhere you want to hit, aim small and shoot small in this useful range.
Here is my rules of thumb:
under 20 m > aim 1inch high
20-150 m > aim bang on
closer to 200 M than 100m > aim 10 cm high
Over 200m ? > Out with the rangefinder and dial (or use reticle)
try this as works a treat with real world results.
this is what I do for my 22-250 varmint reticle.
this system will work with any bdc reticle.
I just scratch or mark where my scope magnification needs to be and all good!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f3e1a402c0.jpg
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
@superdiver how did you get on setting up your B&C
